Adobeman

After seeing how easy it was to upgrade the tweeters and center channel speaker from other posts I recently decided to do the same.

For tweeters I used the very easy to install Infinity 1011t tweeter. I happen to like the sound of silk dome tweeters so I figured I would try them. I did exactly as This Post shows. It's that simple. They fit right in where the old tweeter pop out.

For the center channel driver I found the Boston Acoustics S35 to my liking. It retains the factory 4ohm impedance, a 92db efficiency and has a soft dome tweeter.

As others have found, this simple upgrade really improves the clarity and imaging up front. Pink noise sweeps across LF-->C-->RF show the S35 to need only about a +1 adjustment on the head unit, if at all. Timbre matching isn't perfect but it's very good. It's nearly impossible to match the door driver/tweeter combo with anything you are going to drop in the center as a 3.5" coax.

Here is the driver w/ an OEM harness adaptor attached


As others have also said, the left over S35 3.5" driver is over in the black market for sale.

SLVR04TL6PD

I thought our system was 2 ohms....

Adobeman

Not all of the drivers are...
The door drivers and rear deck drivers are 2ohm and I think the sub is 2ohm as well. The tweeters and center channel driver, however, are very clearly marked as 4 ohm.

SLVR04TL6PD

good to know

italian_spak

now i know i gotta buy sets of 2ohm 3way aftermarket speakers for the best performance

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Adobeman,
I'll take that Boston speaker and harness.

PM me where to send the check.

Any suggesion for the doors and rears?

Adobeman

Not necessarily. At a driver size of about 6 inches for the 2ohm door and rear deck speakers a 3 way is overkill. The more drivers, the more crossover components needed, phase problems and other issues to deal with. My money is on a simpler 2 way design with a well designed crossover. Ideally that would include a good low pass for the woofer with a zobel network and high quality (poly) capacitors all around.

That said. The Boston S35 just has none of that. Just a capacitor for a tweeter crossover. For a 3.5" center channel driver it's fine for now. If only the TL's head unit bass management was better. There is some redirection of center channel low frequencies to the FL and FR but at too low a frequency for a 3.5" driver.

Also, WRT to impedance, depending on the efficiency of the speakers you may be fine with 4 ohm.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Adobeman,

I was just wondering, when you replaced the tweeters, did you use the stock capacitor, or did your infinity tweeters come with some? I used some old CDT tweeters I've had laying around, but I dont recall if they came with the capacitors or not, so I just hooked them up straight to the stock wiring.

I think I might need a capacitor to filter out some of the lower end sounds a bit...or maybe it might just be my imagination.

Jake169

Hey,

This may sound dumb, so all you did was change the tweeters to infinity tweeters and the center cahnnel to the boston acoustic speaker, nothing else. I wanna add a little oomph to my 04TL/NAV just dont wanna mess with the whole amp and stuff. I would love to do what you have done with my center and tweeters.

Thanks,
jAKE.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Aznbo anf Jake,

I don't want to speak for Adobeman, but I installed the Infinity 1011t's and 32.7cf center channel last night. Install was a breeze, it took all about an hour, with some very minor trimming... only because I'm so picky.

I'm not a "bling" stereo guy anymore, nor do I need or desire 500+ defeaning watts blaring into my ears. I also want to "look stock" and don't want to lose any trunk space, so this my ideal path. My upgrade strategy is very simple, replace all speakers with stiffer, higher sensitivity Infinity's, and upgrade the rear sub in the stock location. More on this later.

As I said, I finished the tweeters and CC last night. For the price (about $100), upgrading front tweets and CC is by far the best bang for your buck stock stereo upgrade you can make. I completely concur with Adobeman's comments above about the tweets. I also want to add that the 32.7cf center channel seems to have made the biggest impact on my DVD-A listening. Since it's a 2-way speaker, you're adding an additional tweeter to further bring out the CC highs... Plus it's a 4 ohm speaker (stock is 2 ohm), so you're getting and additional 3db of output. the replacement of this speaker gives a much more pronounced CC, as it should be.

Install is a breeze... remove tweets and CC (lots of how to's here, they just pry out). I then used a pair of micro-needlenose pliers to carefully peel the inner tweeter housing mesh supports away so the Infinity's will fit deeper into the housing (much easier to see when doing this in person). Then you just hot glue the 1011t's into the stock housing. FYI, Left tweet -Green is +, Right tweet -Blue is +
The Infinity 1011t's come with a crossover. Use it. You can kinda see the Xover in this picture:


The Center Channel install requires just a bit more work. Again, using the micro-needlenose pliers, I "twisted" the plastic supports of the center grill to allow the 32.7 trim ring to fit tighter in the housing (thus allowing me to use the stock mounting). You also need to trim the supports under the stock mesh as well, or the 32.7 tweeter will make contact with the stock grill. The 32.7 comes with it's own crossover as well. Use it.



As for future plans, I have 2 sets of Infinty Kappa 62.7 for fronts and rears to be replaced later, when I plan to Dynamat the front doors and rear deck. I also plan to replace the rear sub with a JL 8W3V2 (supposedly drops right into the OEM hole, see a post from "Spiritman"), powered by a JL e1200 under the seat.

BTW, I have an extra 32.7cf and Xover (only sold in pairs, only needed one) for sale in the Black Market, $35 shipped.

Tone-NBP

Hi guys...

Sounds like a good improvement and not having to spend too much. I am looking into doing the same upgrades with some infinitys all around.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Update.

Thanks Kennedy for the heads up.

What I did was, since my tweeters were used and did not have the inline capacitors, I took the capacitors that came with the stock tweeters (small black cylindrical object) and carefully removed them from the stock housing platform. It was a pain because you have to crack the plastic trim to expose the remaining wire of the capacitor since it's somewhat molded into the trim.

Then simply just tap into the positive wire of the tweeter, solder, and wrap.

I think this might have been one of the better ways to do it because the stock capacitor was geared to pick up frequencies right where the stock mid bass ends, where as aftermarket one's might pick it up at a lower frequency, or higher frequency which MIGHT cause not the best transition. but the difference is probably so small you won't even notice it.

Anyway, I'm in LOVE with my tweeters right now (CDT DRT 25). They are silk 1" dome tweeters and this is how the stock TL NEEDS to come!

Well, good luck with any future installs. IMO, if you feel that the TL needs a bit more clarity, this is a MUST!

Now I'm just contemplating if it would be overkill to do the center channel...

Adobeman

aznbo187 Your gonna fry those tweeters. Get at least a cheap bi-polar capacitor for sure until you figure out something else.

As far as crossovers I used the ones that came with the 1011ts and left the S35 alone. The S35 has a simple 1st order (capacitor) network. I had thought about a bass blocker for it but then figured out the TL HU seems to have some bass management for the center channel. Using a center channel only hi to low test tone sweep I definitely noticed the low frequencies in the center channel getting re-directed to LF and RF speakers. (I really wish there was somewhere I could post the ISO for my DVD-A custom test tone disc, hint, hint...)


Jake169 All I did was drop in the new drivers. It is a subtle but good change.

Also
Here is a tip on connecting the tweeters easily. If you know what a 0.100" printed circuit board (PCB) header is and are lucky enough to have access to them then read on...

The connector for the TL tweeter has pins that are 0.100" apart. So, if you use a 2 pin segment of a 0.100" break-away PCB header it will plug right into the existing OE tweeter harness. Being an EE geek, I had some lying around in my parts box.

They look like this


In a comfortable place:
- Wrap the wire around a paper clip and get it tightly coiled
- Slide off the paper clip.
- Slide un-shrunk heat shrinkable tubing on the wire
- Then slide the coiled wire onto one side of the header. Probably the short side.
- Solder and shrink the heat shrink tubing.


Then in the car just plug those puppies in an use a zip tie to hold it. Sure it isn't perfect ( for you big wire, gold connector zealots) but it is every bit as good as the OE connection and leaves NO chance of you accidentally cutting your harness.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Adobeman - Thanks for the insightful reply. I ended up using the stock capacitors to keep the stock crossover frequencies.

I'm now contemplating if I will still need the center channel upgraded. I love the way it sounds right now and dont think I need to upgrade it. Did you happen to install just the tweeters first, or did you do everything at once?

Adobeman

All at once. I'd say the center channel is the "lesser" important one unless you have a lot of DVD-As that really take advantage of it. If you are happy now then leave it alone. It's not like the OE stuff is that bad. I just figured it was worth a try to upgrade these 3 drivers first and see where I got. 1011 tweeters were definitely better.

brifro

What does a +1 adjustment on the head unit mean? Is it something I'd have to do as the installer? Difficult?
Last, what's the approx. cost of this upgrade, and is yours a 2006 TL? Thanks.

Adobeman

You can adjust the level of the center channel the same way you adjust the bass, treble, balance, sub and fader. Center channel is adjustable from -6db to +6db.
Cost was about $140 but then I sold the remaining center channel driver and connector for $40. So $100 net.

kin12345

I have a left over brand new boston s35 center speaker FS posted in the black market. If anyone is interested. 40 shipped.

AMIC

I've started this project and I was wondering what you guys did to keep the crossovers from rattling around in the opening. The one for the Infinity 32.7 CC is rather large.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I just wedged it in between something down in there. I thinkk it was between the 2 air ducts. No rattling thus far.

AMIC

We finished this up this weekend. It was a fairly easy install. Getting the center channel cover off proved to be harder than it should. Lost one of the metal clips down in the nether region never to be seen again. Without the clip, the cover sticks up a bit on one side. Will be finding a new one soon, it looks kinda ghetto. No rattling so far from anything. Thanks to Kennedy for his center channel and his answers to my questions and thanks to Adobeman for his pin solution for the hooking up the tweeters.

I tried a few CDs briefly to see if I noticed a difference. I do hear more from the front now than I did before especially with the DVD-As. I used to have it faded up to the front one notch and now I moved it back to center because there is tendency for the front to drown out the back a little. I need to spend more time with different types of music to see how it sounds. Overall, I'm liking it and the install was not too painful.

Tone-NBP

Is there instructions on how to install tweeters?

AMIC

Kennedy gave a good explanation of the install in one if his previous posts with the pictures. Once you take them out, you can easily see what he's talking about. See Adobeman's post about how to make pins that plugs into the stock connector. You can cutoff the connector and solder the wires together, but once you take the old tweeter out, you'll realize that there's not a lot of slack in the wiring and soldering right there would be pretty difficult.

pohljm

Also
[/QUOTE]Here is a tip on connecting the tweeters easily. If you know what a 0.100" printed circuit board (PCB) header is and are lucky enough to have access to them then read on...

The connector for the TL tweeter has pins that are 0.100" apart. So, if you use a 2 pin segment of a 0.100" break-away PCB header it will plug right into the existing OE tweeter harness. Being an EE geek, I had some lying around in my parts box.

They look like this


In a comfortable place:
- Wrap the wire around a paper clip and get it tightly coiled
- Slide off the paper clip.
- Slide un-shrunk heat shrinkable tubing on the wire
- Then slide the coiled wire onto one side of the header. Probably the short side.
- Solder and shrink the heat shrink tubing.


Then in the car just plug those puppies in an use a zip tie to hold it. Sure it isn't perfect ( for you big wire, gold connector zealots) but it is every bit as good as the OE connection and leaves NO chance of you accidentally cutting your harness.[/QUOTE]


Ok I got my 1011t's and the PCB header, but you must be doing some microscopic soldering cuz i cannot get both wires wrapped around the small ends of the header without them touching, or shorting accross, did you not use all the strands in the wire? damn that leg piece is short its not soldering securely and i dont think the short legs are long enough to make contact in the connectors so I cannot flip em...arghhhhhhh is there some PCB soldering trick I need to know?

Adobeman

I do have lots of experience soldering. I did use all the strands. Try stripping only about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of wire. DO NOT twist the wire strands together after stripping them simply twist them around a small, straightened paper clip. Do this very tightly and all the strands should lay down in a nice, flat, compact coil on the paper clip. You may need to use your finger nails to make the coil compact. Align the rest of the wire so it is parallel to the clip. Slide it carefully off of the clip. You should now be able to slide it over the end of the header and solder it. There is plenty of room if you are using the wire supplied with the Infinity crossovers. I even had room for heat shrink tubing to go over each solder joint.

This picture is a gross simplification of the paper clip thing but it should get the point across. Plus it's all I could find while at work



And yes, the short ends are not long enough to mate well with the TL's connector.

BTW - Where did you get the 0.10 header ? It's usually not a local kind of thing.

AMIC

It was basically a team effort with my husband and I. We didn't do the paper clip thing. I held the pins steady in the grip of some pliers and he held the Infinity wire close to the outside edge of the pin and solder it there, then the same with the other side. This gave plenty of room to put the heat shrink tubing over them.

Adobeman

That can work too but usually leads to "cold" solder joints. The slightest movement while the solder cools will cause a bad joint. I think you will be just fine however. It's just a speaker wire in a car after all. The family that solders together...

Unfortunately my wife is usually a reluctant set of other hands so I have to come up with other ways. The paper clip trick was handed down to me by someone who has repaired commercial aircraft electronics for years.

AMIC

Thanks for the info. I didn't know that. I guess if it stops working then I'll know exactly why!

pohljm

And yes, the short ends are not long enough to mate well with the TL's connector.

BTW - Where did you get the 0.10 header ? It's usually not a local kind of thing.[/QUOTE]

I picked them up at Fry's electronics, but I think I will be using some solder on pins That I have left over from my Basslink install. I have both male and female that are the same size and I will just do them individually and heat shrink them so that I have more room to work with my big ass weller soldering gun, no pencil type available then I will heat shrink the entire connector and wire to keep it secure. I have not popped the stock tweet's out of the grille yet, but you said the 1011t's fit right back in....no trimming or anything required? did you leave the stock connector and capacitor in place? also did you open up some of the blocked holes in the stock grille? it looks to me like the stock tweet's are smaller diameter.

Crook

pohljm,
I just went out to the garage and shot a couple of pictures to give you and idea of what you'll see during your install. After you mount the tweeters, remember that the grills are supposed to fit in the hole in a certain position. The thicker edge of the factory grill is towards the center of the dash and the three notches are supposed to line up with the indents.

I used a painter's tool to pull up on the grill while prying to prevent damage to the dash vinyl.


Notice the goldish looking epoxy that I used to glue the tweeter too the grill at three contact points around the tweeter.












These old dental pick tools were used to clear some of the existing holes in the grill. Some of the holes were blocked by a thin layer of the plastic created during manufacturing. I did not create any new holes.


You will probably have to do a little grinding with a dremel or cutting with a razor knife but it's very minimal. Remove some of the plastic so that your tweeter will seat deeper into the under side of the factory grill. If you look closely at these images, you'll see where I did some grinding or trimming.

pohljm

Crook, thanks for the additional photos. I was able to solder on the pcb headers after all and drop the tweets right into the grilles w/o any grinding. hot glued them into place and plopped em back in. I have not had a real chance to audition them fully, but what little I did sounded very nice. I am awaiting my center channel speaker in the mail as we speak. Once that is in and with my Basslink dialed in I think that this may be the best bang for the buck improvement to the stock system. I am not trying to win any SPL contests and it may not sound like a 15K system but I only have $160 into it and still have $14,840.00 in the bank!

pohljm

Ok, auditioned the new tweeters with blue man group dvd-a and it is a very noticable improvement, the highs now....sparkle. In anticipation of my boston s35 center channel speaker arriving can you tell me if the CC is connected the same way with the pcb header or does it use a different type of connection? I would like to have the harness fabricated and ready to go once the speaker arrives

Crook

It's a different harness plug. You can probably use a (narrow) blade type terminal. Not as wide as the ones usually sold in stores. Plug in the terminals, zip tie the wire to the gray plug and then wrap it with 3M tape. You should be good to go.

brifro

I had the dealer install my tweeters in case I messed anything up, and they showed me the 1011t's wouldn't fit into the 2006 TL tweeter space without removing the grills. We pried the grills off (they are crimped on), but accidentally crushed one of the domes. The service manager sucked it back out (quite humorous), and it looked perfect, but it breaks down at high volume. 1) Do you guys sink the tweeters by removing plastic so you don't have to pry off the grills? 2) These tweeters do sound better, and I got them for $45. Do you think the newer Infinity Kappa series with their higher tech and double price would sound better? Or, does the 2 ohm impedance prevent their use (1011t's are 4 ohm)? are there any other tweeters that would sound better than the 1011t's regardless of price in this system? And 3) Is everyone on this site confident that the factory speakers haven't been upgraded as time goes on? How do you really know what's in there on speakers without labels? Thanks for any input.
brifro

AMIC

You just pry the stock tweeters out of the grill. This wasn't very difficult to do. You then break some of the plastic off from the inside of the grill and glue the new tweeters into the grill on the sides. Make sure you use a lot of glue as they can come detached.

I can't really answer your other questions though.

pohljm

I did not need to remove the infinity grilles or remove any of the plastic ribs under the stock grilles, I do not know what your talking about, mine fit perfectly

johnny--2k

sorry to resurrect a dead thread.....

Adobeman, is that harness the one that is on the factory speaker or did you buy the harness somewhere else?

I just came from best buy and they have the Infinity 3.5" (REF3022CF) for $40!!! So, I am gonna pick up a pair tomorrow since I did not have my wallet with me .....oops.

Also, was there any modification needed to fit the center channel at all? Any tips for install?

Thanks,
John

Adobeman

No aftermarket speakers don't usually come with harnesses. I used an adaptor harness I bought to mate the Honda/Acura connectors to the plain terminals on the Boston Acoustics speaker.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-O7JskJA...100&I=12071012
You could just as easily use some 3M crimp on wire taps and some female blade crimp connectors to make a harness. Or cut the OE connector off the car and just use some female blade crimp connectors. I used the adaptor so it would be easy to go back to stock if I ever wanted to.

As far as mods for the Infinity I don't know. My speaker was a Boston Acoustics s35. All I had to do was use a bit of extra foam to make a gasket between the speaker and the grille. No changes required to the dash at all.

johnny--2k

awesome!!! Also, I would assume that I should use the supplied capacitor (bass blocker) or should I just plug it in and go?

Thanks again,
John

rshanahan

Thanks for your heads up! I'm lazy and checked Crutchfield and they have them too for $40. Also picked up a pair of 1011t's for $50. I figured buying from Crutchfield I'd get all their extras (mainly Honda speaker wire adapters).

NOTE, Crutchfield's database lists 3g's with 2 3.5" speakers up front and no mention of a center. I called them and he verified that there is no mention of a center speaker. The reason I called was the 3.5" stated they 'DID NOT FIT'. As such, the Acrua/Honda adapter harnesses did not automatically get added to my order. The very friendly sales associate gave me his direct contact info and told me to place the order, wait about a 1/2 hour and call him back. He verified that the adapters were NOT added to my order, he added them manually at no charge.

Now all I need is enough nerve to start tearing apart my dash!

Rick