I finally got around to putting in the IB15a in my car. I don't have pics but I followed the Obsidian build so it looks the same as that except that the sub is offset. I offset it because I want to try to keep extra room on one side to give the trunk a little more room for a large suitcase or something. Also, I was thinking that I might add a 2nd woofer. The sub is getting 200 watts and I was worried about it not being enough. When I first started listening to it I felt like the output was a little weak. However when I put down the armrest and opened it up the output increased so much. It was what I was hoping for. It plays very low and sounds great. I will need to find a component set for the fronts that has good midbass response to blend nicely with the 15. Right now I just amplified the stock speakers and it sounds a lot better but needs to be replaced and dampened.

Now I need to figure out how to remove the plastic door from the skipass and make some kind of grill there so I can keep the armrest down and the woofer hidden. Does the plastic door support the armrest? It looks like it would be fine without the door behind it.

 

yes, you can take out that plastic door.
I believe you have to take out the rear seats in order to remove the door.

 

the door should be able to come out pretty easily. Also consider removing the stock subwoofer so you can have a bit more output come into the cabin!

 

^ This. Post up pics!! Did you have something in there before to compare it to? Do you have deadening?

 

I don't know if it would be a good idea to remove the stock sub because the baffle runs right in the middle of it so it would cause a hole between the front and rear of it.


I didn't take any pics but I will when I take it out to carpet it. I don't have any deadening. Also, there aren't any rattles from the rear shelf so I'm happy about that.

One tip that I can give you if you're mounting it this way is to take out the cover for the spare tire and use the front of it as a template for the base of the baffle. There is a little lip there with the hole where you will put the bolt to secure it. Just add about a half inch to the lip so it sits snug to that side. Also make it a little wider than the cover to it's snug on the left and right.

 

The stock sub will act like a passive radiator (only not so passive with a motor in it). I don't know if this would be good or bad if it is split by the baffle.

You could stretch speaker cloth over the frame to hide the speaker.

 

The stock sub needs to come out and the hole needs to be sealed up. You don't want anything getting through that hole, it will be cancellation and will kill output. It's also a good idea to seal behind the 6.5s in the deck too.

The plastic piece in the ski pass is held in by two screws, very easy to take out and it will increase output a little. I glued a thin black cloth to the back of the seat to hide the subs completely.

What do you have this thing low passed at? It should blend very easily with the fronts, I suggest starting at 100hz which is where the fronts start falling off. This sub will play into the midrange frequencies so definitely start out with it crossed over a little high and work your way down if you don't like it. It's just not doing it justice to cross it at 50-63hz like most do because it sounds so good up high and blends with the fronts so well. The beauty of this sub is that it will play so low and still blend with the mids effortlessly if everything is setup right. Mine is low passed at 100hz and you can't tell where the sub leaves off and the midbass picks up.