Amp in protect mode help!
Amp in protect mode help!
my amp goes into protect mode everytime i turn my gain or volume up and if i go in my trunk it smells like acid... i have 2 alpine type x 12's powered by a hifonics 2500 watt class d monoblock with a shitty capacitor... what is my problem i hope the capacitor
i narrowed it down to 1 of my subwoofers is the problem the thing is its not like a burning smell coming out it smells like acid... i know what a burning smell is i fried some p3 fosgates and they smoked lol
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1) Capacitors are not a waste. The principle of bulk caps and decoupling caps applies to ALL of the electronics that you use. So if you think caps are a waste, might as well protest them by never using anything with a circuit board ever again. They work and there is a very good reason to use them on certain designs, especially mobile audio.
2) Replying to some really old thread is like showing up to a party after everybody left. You're just talking to yourself. Then some random guys show up and make fun of you for being so late.
2) Replying to some really old thread is like showing up to a party after everybody left. You're just talking to yourself. Then some random guys show up and make fun of you for being so late.
1) Capacitors are not a waste. The principle of bulk caps and decoupling caps applies to ALL of the electronics that you use. So if you think caps are a waste, might as well protest them by never using anything with a circuit board ever again. They work and there is a very good reason to use them on certain designs, especially mobile audio.
2) Replying to some really old thread is like showing up to a party after everybody left. You're just talking to yourself. Then some random guys show up and make fun of you for being so late.
2) Replying to some really old thread is like showing up to a party after everybody left. You're just talking to yourself. Then some random guys show up and make fun of you for being so late.
You're completely wrong in the way you're thinking about it. They work. I won't waste my time explaining why. Read this:
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=595808
http://www.edaboard.com/thread20079.html
Same principle.
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=595808
http://www.edaboard.com/thread20079.html
Same principle.
You're completely wrong in the way you're thinking about it. They work. I won't waste my time explaining why. Read this:
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=595808
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=595808
i dont care what that thing says. i had a cap put in my car long ago. a fosgate cap. it didnt do anything. it holds a charge for a quick burst of energy if im playing some lil jon with constant bass that cap will drain and the energy is gone now its up to the battery and altenator to provide the power. big three alone solved my electrical issues with no cap. but if you think it works all power to ya but big three solved my problems. idk what amps you run but for 2100 watts cap just didnt help but like i said if it works for u all power to just didnt help me
The big 3 upgrade prevents unnecessary power consumption by wire runs whose resistance produces a significant voltage drop at large current levels. When you're running 2000W+, you definitely need this.
The purpose of the cap is to assist in voltage regulation. A large sudden current draw causes a sudden voltage drop over cable runs because the car's voltage regulator can't compensate for the voltage drop in time, and thus quick, high power draws cause voltage fluctuations. Capacitors fight voltage changes, and so when this sudden high load is applied, the capacitor will temporarily provide energy to the circuit until the regulator keeps up again: it doesn't fully charge/fully discharge every time your bass hits. The purpose is voltage regulation so that the 12V nets ALL over your car remain stable.
Both of these things serve a purpose. Big 3 is for efficiency, cap is for voltage regulation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor
educate yourself son
Most electrolytic capacitors are polarized and require one of the electrodes to be positive relative to the other; they may catastrophically fail if voltage is reversed. This is because a reverse-bias voltage above 1 to 1.5 V[4][5][6] will destroy the center layer of dielectric material via electrochemical reduction (see redox reactions). Following the loss of the dielectric material, the capacitor will short circuit, and with sufficient short circuit current, the electrolyte will rapidly heat up and either leak or cause the capacitor to burst, often in a spectacularly dramatic fashion.
Last edited by Vlad_Type_S; Apr 11, 2014 at 10:56 AM.
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or has resolved his problems
for this cap debate
