KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

So I just got my Uncald4 enclosure ordered and I think I'll be getting a 10" Alpine Type R to put in it. But since I will no longer have a box to mount my amp onto, I'm looking for ideas on where to mount my amp but coming up short on all the searches I'm trying. A few thoughts I had were:

on the right side vertically like another member has done
In the spare tire well (I think I've heard of this being done, but haven't seen pictures)
On the trunk ceiling

The amp is a Polk MOMO Carbon Series C500.1

Anyone have any thoughts on this or links to what you or others have done?

I hate cars

You have to be the careful mounting the amp upside down due to cooling issues. Depending on the size, under the seat is a great place for it. If its much more than 2" tall, it probably won't fit. Driver's seat has much more clearance than the passenger side.

Another spot would be behind the trunk carpet mounted to one of the braces, again only if the amp is small.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

I'd wondered about heat issues with a mount upside down like that but didn't really know. Is there a reason that it is bad?

And the dimensions per Polk's website are 2-1/2" H x 11" W x 9-3/4" D. From what you're saying, it's probably too big to fit under the seat or behind the trunk carpet. Any more ideas anyone?

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

For heating issues my amp, a Soundstream Ref 705, has a massive heat sink that lines the entire top of the amp. Do you natural convection heat rises through the tall sinks, dissipating the heat. Much like a heat sink and fan combo for a CPU. Some amps i have seen have the heat sinks mounted on the sides, which means cooling will be the same pretty much no matter how its mounted, top and bottom not side over side.
Im about to order my uncald4 enclosure and am trying to resolve the mounting as well, because my amp is fairly large (5 channel).

EL_PIC

most amps have cooling on the top so be carefull with upside down. due to size you list ... to big for underseat.
trunk or rear deck seems most desired.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Here is a link to the amp on Polk's website:

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/c500_1/

An excerpt about heat:

Dual (top and side) computer optimized extruded aluminum Heat Sinks for more efficient power output, superior heat dissipation and high reliability.

It doesn't look like it would really be dissipating much off the top, but then I wouldn't really know.

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

So according to the literature the heat sinks are on the top and sides. The top prob covers a good portion of the cooling. Although the transistors are prob thermal greased to the sides, which would allow you to mount upside down. If you comfortable enough open up the amp and see where the majority of the thermal heat will be dissipating to.

Or send Polk an email

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

Thanks djtsmith for the suggestion to talk to Polk themselves. I just got off the phone with them, and the guy was very familiar with the amp and said it would be just fine to mount it inverted. With the heat sinks external and on the sides, he said it wouldn't be an issue and that they've mounted many of them inverted.

On that note, I now need to determine the best way to mount it up there. Anyone have any tips or a DIY on how to do that?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'd just attach some mdf or cheap 1/2" or so wood to the rear deck and then attach the amp(s) to that

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

That's exactly what I was thinking too. Now to figure out where exactly to mount the wood to under the deck. Would just self tapping screws through the metal work? Besides the awkward position to work in, I don't think it would really be too difficult. It should keep the whole install looking nice too.

One more thought - I'll be running my 1/0 gauge power into a distribution block with a few 4 gauge outs. Should the distribution block be fused? If so, what size fuses? I believe the amp has 2 25 fuses in it if that helps.

Thanks again everyone.
Kurt

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

If you can find a hole to get your hand through close to where you would want to secure the wood to the rear deck you could just use a washer/nut and secure it that way. Otherwise, self-tapping is probably the best bet.

As far as distro blocks, mine is fused near the battery (obviously) but my power distro for both amps IS NOT fused. Nothing wrong with going fused though...extra protection the way I see it

I hate cars

You could always do an amp rack so it would not be inverted. If you do screw it straight to the chassis, I would isolate the amp somehow, vibration is nevre good for the amp. I know you have subs back there but I doubt the energy would be transferred to the electronics the way it would by bolting straight to the chassis. Rubber grommets or wood would work.

I hate cars

I have a ton of fuses in mine. I figure the fuse is for the wiring, not the amp. The big one at the battery takes care of the large power wire. But each 4ga wires from the distribution block need a fuse in case they ground out. The one at the battery may or may not blow before the 4ga melts or catches something on fire.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

I see why what you're saying would be good, but I'm having trouble visualizing what you are proposing. So if I have a piece of carpeted mdf screwed into the deck and the amp mounted to the wood, where do the rubber grommets or wood go?

EDIT: Also to IHC, what size fuses are you using in your block?

I hate cars

Two 40a, a 20a, and a 120a. 40a for each 4ga to the amps and a 20a for the 8ga going to the processor. I think the big one is 120a but I haven't looked in a long time. If you're using a distro block with smaller wires coming out than going in, you need a fuse even if the amp has one. I ran it for years with just one fuse at the battery and never had issues but I would hate to watch the TL burn over a $20 item.

If you're using wood, no need to use rubber too.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

I agree, if its a better idea to have it fused, I may as well since the price difference is so small. Thanks for the sizes, I'll just have 4ga wires, so I'll use 40a too.

And i see, you meant if I was bolting the amp directly to the chassis and not a wooden mount that it would be a good idea to use wooden or rubber spacers? I agree, that definitely makes sense now. I wonder if I could do it that way and avoid the board altogether, might be easier and also less obtrusive.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

So after taking a closer look under the rear deck, it looks like the best place to do this would be right under the stock sub. For me, this shouldn't change anything sound-wise as my stock sub is still sitting up there. It looks like the four corners around the sub should provide a good, even place to secure the board. I do have a feeling it would be extremely difficult to get a washer/nut up there, so self-tapping screws will be the way I go.

I think I'll use 3/4" mdf covered in gray carpeting, screw that into the rear deck, and then bolt the amp up onto the board. I'm thinking this shouldn't end up being too complicated of a process, with the exception of working upside down I suppose.

I hate cars

That sounds like a good plan. It's nice to have bass and almost all of your trunk usable.