Hey everyone! I'm looking for information that's very specific that I'm having a hard time locating. I bought a DIY amp bypass kit from the guys at Mobile Max Car Audio but it doesn't include the leads for ground and power for DC. I'm installing the Kicker 47Key200.4 and wanted to use DC vs 12v so I don't have to run extra wire. Where can I find the male pins for the connectors. Not the small pins but the bigger one. The best picture for reference is the lead on the actual amplifier, that should be constant and ground in the middle. It's a spade style crimp terminal, I don't know the pitch and everything else. I need a part number more than anything. Acura was unhelpful, most of the people I spoke to just don't know. I am patient so I'm in no rush right now to get it installed. I've considered buying and broken amp and just removing the connectors from the amps mobo but if you all can help me that would be better. Thank you!

I'm using this kit:
https://mobilemaxcaraudio.com/produc...ypass-harness/

 

You post has a lot of words, but i'm not quite understanding what your ask is. You're looking for a part number for a spade style crimp terminal? Why not just go on Amazon and buy an assorted pack of crimp terminals and see what fits?


Also this one is the most confusing:


what do you mean by DC vs 12V? Are you somehow implying that our cars use 12V AC and you would be tying it in there?

 

On the Kicker 47key200.4 amp you can either set Auto Turn on to DC or 12v with a dipswitch. Any idea where I can find these pins?

 

How much do you know about circuits? The correct terminal will just snap into place after you crimp the lead wire to the pin connector. You will then slide the pin connector into the bypass harness to allow for ground and 12v, so I can't just use any crimp style I find on amazon. It has to be a certain pitch. aka length. I have two amps, the kicker key 200.4 and the 500.1. They are very small amps. Allowing the 200.4 to run in DC Offset, this will trigger the rem to become the 12v to allow the the 500.1 to turn on. And since the amps are very small they can be placed in tight areas since the Acura doesn't have a lot of room to begin with. This kit, you can use this bypass to connect your speakers to the amps while retaining the internal wiring. The speakers that I'm using don't require a lot of power and the factory wiring is just fine. I will be running in bi-amp mode to allow them to go fully active. I would have to run new wire for my tweeters and connect my woofers to green and purple rears. Another installer I spoke with we came to the conclusion that they might be discontinued but we cant be certain, hence why I reached out here. I'm trying to determine if the pins are being used with other cars or if they have completely just vanished from the market.

 

I think i'm understanding now.. I still think your best bet is buy an assorted kit and compare it to the existing pins to determine the right pitch as I don't think you'll find an Acura part number for a specific pin.

Try this site: https://cycleterminal.com/

 

What I need is in RED. Blue is the bypass harness where I will put the pins through. Like I said before, I may end up just buying a used amp somewhere and remove the terminals and solder the wire. I hope this clears things up a bit.

Male end pinout

Female End Constant and Ground

 

Kicker 200.4 wiring

 

@MasterWayne

Are you planning to use the 12V and GND line from the factory harness to power both amps?

A couple of ideas:

1. Contact Metra to see if they can provide a part number for the pins since they manufacture that bypass harness.
2. Look for an old harness that matches amp pins and pull the pins from it
3. Cut the wires from both factory and bypass harness and make your own harness. You could probably use headlight pigtails for that.

 

Unfortunately this bypass kit is not from Metra and is custom made from a Installer in New York. Even they are having a hard time finding the terminals. His supplier from china no longer will do small orders and they'll need to place large orders of 10k or more to get these terminals. And if they sell them at like 20cents that's like 2k for one bulk order. For the Kicker 500.1 I will need to run a separate power 4g to the amp but that's going in the rear, opposite of my 4 channel. I've been looking for a common pig tail connectors that has the same size and length pin but have been unsuccessful. 4 eyes are better than 2 as the old saying goes and I do appreciate the help with the metra idea. I could reach out to them about any industry info.

 

@MasterWayne

You want to use the factory amp's 12V and GND to power the Kicker 200.4 amp?

 

Yes I'll be running this amp off the oem wiring, I want everything plug n play. This amp allows you to do that. You just have to set the dipper switch to DC offset which is powered on by the radio 12v source and not directly from the battery. I'm setting myself up in the future where I can just disconnect the amp and not worry about additional wires if and when I sell this car. Also I'm hopeful this info can be used in the future for any other person looking to do the same thing.

DC turn on can be set to 12v or DC offset.

 

@MasterWayne

I understand the Auto Turn On feature on those amps. I was just wondering why you insist on using those pins, but it makes sense if you want a plug-n-play solution so you can just go back to the factory amp quickly.

Personally, I would just cut the 12V and ground from the factory harness and connect them to the amp by either bullet connectors, soldering, or a two pin connector. You could solder those two wires back into the factory harness when you're done just as easily.

 

I'm not looking for advice on how to connect it differently, I'm well aware of this and I have already stated I could do it another way if needed. I'm looking for advice on where to possibly find that specific part. I've looked on Mouser.com and digikey.com for that part but I can't find anything remotely in that pitch, width, and Haynes Automotive book doesn't show you the item numbers. Someone on here on a older post has already shown they replaced the old capacitors so I'm looking for that same expertise at the component level. I've been doing this for nearly 20 years but just having a hard time finding a part. Any advice on finding the part, or if someone knows exactly where to get that part. That's why I'm here. And in the end, if I do get what I need I will update this thread so feature people asking the same question can find answers.

In red are the pins I need