Hahaha! So I got a Blaupunkt sub from a friend so I thought I would hook it up. He bought it two years ago brand new and never hooked it up, so it has just been sitting in the box for that time. Hooked it all up and started the car up. Almost right away, I started to smell something and within 2 minutes, I saw smoke bellowing out of the port of my enclosure. The amp was fine. Not warm, no issues there. Just curious if you know of why the sub would do that. Just an example of blaupunkt quality?

That sucks, I'd say something shorted out somewhere...What was the amplifier putting out?

What do you mean? Amp was cool, working fine, no smoke, gain only up halfway, and the volume was barely up in the car (like 10). Fuse burnt out on the amp once the sub completely fried.

I am just wondering if it could have been the amp anyway. I don't really trust it since it is a less than great amp in the first place.

It's the way you hooked them up. Ohm's, my friend ohms. If you hooked an 8-ohm sub, or even a 4-ohm sub up to a 1 ohm amp, you'll BLOW your speakers. Not blown like rattle, blown like blow up. I tested this theory with an old amp and some wack little tweeters that I had. Wired the 4 ohm tweet's so they made a 8-ohm mono, put into a crunch usa 2ohm mono amp, after about 1 minute of popping and cancelling eachother out, they caught on fire.

The amp is a blaupunkt pca2100, and it says that when bridged, it is at 300w x 1 at 4 ohm. The sub is a blaupunkt tsw1200 sub at 4 ohm. Therefore, if I have the amp bridged, wouldn't everything be at 4 ohm?

If not, what do I need to make sure of with my next sub? Does it need to be 2 ohm? Considering the elemental design 13kV.2 found here: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=31
That is a dual 2 ohm sub...

My amp should be fine though?

how did you do your install?

8 gauge kit. Power to battery with a fuse in front (did not blow btw), ground in the popular bolt as described in most write-ups. I also scraped any additional paint to make sure a good ground. PAC LOC connected to the stock sub connections after the factory amp, and then the rcas hooked up the only way you would. Turn on lead is connected to fuse #23 up front. Positive speaker cable hooked up to the right channel of the amp, and the negative is hooked up to the left channel. It is a single voice coil so that is pretty to the point.
Let me know if I am missing anything. I think that covers it...
Thanks for all your help!

It's my guess it's the sub at fault internally somehow. Your inline fuse would have blown if it was your amp.

I've had a Pioneer sub that I abused with all kinds of amps/connections and it thumped for years, until the foam surrounds started to powder. I experimented with a Cerwin-Vega Sub in high school. (don't ask why, I think I was bored) We purposely even hooked up 2 amps to it trying to blow it up, it distorted badly but we couldn't do it. I have seen other subs blow 5 minutes out of the box. Everything wired right and at the right specs. I guess subs are all different quality.

I'm not a big fan of Blaupunkt, I have always thought they were all about brand loyalty for some people, and I haevn't ever seen a setup that has impressed me. They had a name for themselves with head units like 15 yrs ago but lately I haven't heard much. I wasn't even aware they made subs.

what LOC did you use, im trying to figure out how to install a simple 2ch amp for 1 12 in my TL, i dont think i need to touch the oem amp because im not installing a 4ch and no need to play in the speaker wires

thank for helping

Yeah, I figure it is the sub as well. Like I said, it looked like all wiring was correct, and the amp was holding up until the sub fully blew. It was at that point that the fuses in the amp went, but the fuse up front by the battery never went.

I don't like blaupunkt at all. I got the amp and sub for really cheap and figured what the heck. I wouldn't mind some more bass... now I am contemplating getting a new sub and amp, but I'm not sure.