About to get Subwoofer install..need YOUR help!?
09-01-2011, 03:03 PM
#81
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Ok...I'm going to go to the SSA store by tomorrow; wanted to get a final thought from you guys.
Aaron recommended that since I was looking at two ported tens (DCON) a single 15 in that line would work out better for my needs along with the Sundown SAX-125.2. Don't think a new Zed is within budget for me..and remember; as of last week I almost had a all out Rockford amp/sub install. You feel like two tens or one 12 or one 15 would be better for me? Or is it a wash? Loving the SSA line and will stick with it...
I still cannot find a one-in-all amp; with ample power and enough features that I won't need to do any serious fine tuning (maybe the zed afterall?) I don't know enough to know which pre-owned ones are good or not good (on Ebay/Craigs list and the forums)
Still haven't heard you pitch in on Noise Reduction in the 07 TL-S...Current set up OEM is that the sub and components provide feedback for reduction, with an aftermarket sub it totally messes up all quality..I found a ton of threads..sadly I couldn't find a solution.
Let me know guys; this stuff should be IN THE MAIL to me by Saturday! Hoo-AH!
Aaron recommended that since I was looking at two ported tens (DCON) a single 15 in that line would work out better for my needs along with the Sundown SAX-125.2. Don't think a new Zed is within budget for me..and remember; as of last week I almost had a all out Rockford amp/sub install. You feel like two tens or one 12 or one 15 would be better for me? Or is it a wash? Loving the SSA line and will stick with it...
I still cannot find a one-in-all amp; with ample power and enough features that I won't need to do any serious fine tuning (maybe the zed afterall?) I don't know enough to know which pre-owned ones are good or not good (on Ebay/Craigs list and the forums)
Still haven't heard you pitch in on Noise Reduction in the 07 TL-S...Current set up OEM is that the sub and components provide feedback for reduction, with an aftermarket sub it totally messes up all quality..I found a ton of threads..sadly I couldn't find a solution.
Let me know guys; this stuff should be IN THE MAIL to me by Saturday! Hoo-AH!
09-01-2011, 03:16 PM
#82
Team Owner
A single 15 without a doubt. It has nearly triple the cone area of a single 10" and still more area than dual 10s. Looking forward to how it sounds.
09-01-2011, 04:01 PM
#84
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Next: SSA offers two DCON 15s. Which one?! The S4 is 300W 4ohm and can have either dual or single?!!? OR the D2 is 1000W and is avail 1 or 2 ohm..price on either will not be an issue..just your recommendation and why. And if you both feel like that sundown amp can kick both of those 15 subs then so be it..I'll let Aaron know to put my order in!!!
Still: any word on the Noise Cancellation stuff?
09-01-2011, 04:14 PM
#85
It seems like a single 12" Icon ported would be the best of both worlds for you. Plenty of SPL and still very good SQ. Shouldn't take up too much space at all either. 2.5cuft is smaller than mine and I can still fit plenty of stuff in my trunk. Only downside is that the Icon needs 700+rms it seems. I'd see what Aaron can do on a 12" Icon and Sundown 1200D combo. Just build your own ported box. It's very simple and I can help you with all that
The following users liked this post:
Aaron Clinton (09-02-2011)
09-01-2011, 04:49 PM
#86
My Custom Sub Box Instructions
Well I found them! No way in hell was I going to re-type out the steps lol. Hope this helps. I would definitely think about building your own as it's super simple and easy to do with 2 people. I mean very simple. You don't have to cut anything if you don't want to. I had all my panels already figured out so I got a sheet of MDF from Home Depot and told them how long to cut each piece (make sure you're doing it so you only need to use 1 board!!!) and then you can cut the sub holes or they can do it probably. Easy 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As far as the boxes go...I would do the one I've given already for the w7. If you go with the SA-12 I would go with a 33hz box but you could still get away with the 35hz box.
For Wood: I've never read nor heard of any Baltic Birch so I can't say there. I know when I was sponsored by Digital Designs they did all their stuff with MDF and if DD does MDF...you should too! haha.
For Materials: You'll need a countersink drill bit to pre-drill the screw holes and it will countersink the screw head at the same time so it sits flush with the box...and then you can screw the screws in. If your not completely familiar with this then you need to practice on the extra MDF you've got before you go working on the box. REMEMBER: Once you glue, nail, put a hole in the box, etc....that piece is a goner if you messed up. So be patient and think about what your doing.
Here was my process:
1. Measure/center the 2 10" sub rings on the front plate (1 12" in your case) and cut them out using a jigsaw.
2. Assemble front board and the side board that it connects to (the one without the port next to it). When you put these together you'll need to put wood glue along the edges because this is what will ultimately hold the box together, NOT the screws.
3. Glue/Screw both boards for the port onto the box.
4. Glue/Screw back and port side board onto the box
5. Place a board underneath your box and trace the outlines on the entire box. This way when your done tracing and you take the board out you can just put it on top and know exactly where all your boards are and you won't have to measure, etc to make sure your screwing into the port/sides/etc.
6. Glue/Screw top into place
7. Use a caulking gun and caulk all the seams on the inside of the box. This will help keep the air from escaping through the seams.
8. You'll have to measure out everything and draw it on the bottom board so you know where your screwing into. If you miss, even barely, you'll probably either split the wood or just straight up miss it and put a nice hole in the box. Big NO NO
9. Glue/Screw bottom on and put your hand/head inside and see where you need to caulk and go after it!! Seal that box!...but don't be too sloppy lol
10. Let the caulking dry/rubberize b/c the fumes (if your using a silicone caulk) can eat away at the subwoofer materials (heard this MANY times but I don't know what part it harms)
11. Drill holes for the sub. I used a weatherstrip/rubber type material that was very thin and that I could make circular to seal my subs since they didn't have the gaskets still on them. Worked out GREAT and raised the sub a few cm so it's not sitting flush with the box (helps to reduce peaky responses)
12. Drill a small hole just large enough for your wires to come through the box and to your amp. You should really have to tug on it to get them through.
13. Wire up subs/Insert them into box and hook up to amp.
14. Your Done!
This diagram will help with the order I went in....
http://dbdynamixaudio.com/72/l-slot-...re-calculator/
My Order in Cliff Notes: lol
1. Orange
2. Blue
3. Teal
4. Purple
5. Yellow
6. Red
7-8. Top/Bottom
Tips:
- Make sure all your wood measurements are correct and if you wanted post them on here and we can check them before you go get the big MDF sheet cut. Also, MDF comes in one BIG sheet so plan out all the boards so you'll only have to buy one sheet. I can help with this if you get stuck...
- I put screws every 2.5" but that might be a tad overkill. Just make sure you stay around 2-2.5" away from the corners of the box and the seams where 2 boards come together since your don't want them splitting on ya.
- If you don't have a subwoofer template then you'll just have to lay on there and draw the drill holes. You know its smaller than that! You can do a few measurements or do whatever you need to do but know that its better, actually....you HAVE TO be spot on or small b/c if you cut the hole too large then you can't add wood back to it! It took us twice b/c we had to go back and shave off a few cm or whatever.
That's all I can think of for right now.....I'm sure I'll put up more later.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As far as the boxes go...I would do the one I've given already for the w7. If you go with the SA-12 I would go with a 33hz box but you could still get away with the 35hz box.
For Wood: I've never read nor heard of any Baltic Birch so I can't say there. I know when I was sponsored by Digital Designs they did all their stuff with MDF and if DD does MDF...you should too! haha.
For Materials: You'll need a countersink drill bit to pre-drill the screw holes and it will countersink the screw head at the same time so it sits flush with the box...and then you can screw the screws in. If your not completely familiar with this then you need to practice on the extra MDF you've got before you go working on the box. REMEMBER: Once you glue, nail, put a hole in the box, etc....that piece is a goner if you messed up. So be patient and think about what your doing.
Here was my process:
1. Measure/center the 2 10" sub rings on the front plate (1 12" in your case) and cut them out using a jigsaw.
2. Assemble front board and the side board that it connects to (the one without the port next to it). When you put these together you'll need to put wood glue along the edges because this is what will ultimately hold the box together, NOT the screws.
3. Glue/Screw both boards for the port onto the box.
4. Glue/Screw back and port side board onto the box
5. Place a board underneath your box and trace the outlines on the entire box. This way when your done tracing and you take the board out you can just put it on top and know exactly where all your boards are and you won't have to measure, etc to make sure your screwing into the port/sides/etc.
6. Glue/Screw top into place
7. Use a caulking gun and caulk all the seams on the inside of the box. This will help keep the air from escaping through the seams.
8. You'll have to measure out everything and draw it on the bottom board so you know where your screwing into. If you miss, even barely, you'll probably either split the wood or just straight up miss it and put a nice hole in the box. Big NO NO
9. Glue/Screw bottom on and put your hand/head inside and see where you need to caulk and go after it!! Seal that box!...but don't be too sloppy lol
10. Let the caulking dry/rubberize b/c the fumes (if your using a silicone caulk) can eat away at the subwoofer materials (heard this MANY times but I don't know what part it harms)
11. Drill holes for the sub. I used a weatherstrip/rubber type material that was very thin and that I could make circular to seal my subs since they didn't have the gaskets still on them. Worked out GREAT and raised the sub a few cm so it's not sitting flush with the box (helps to reduce peaky responses)
12. Drill a small hole just large enough for your wires to come through the box and to your amp. You should really have to tug on it to get them through.
13. Wire up subs/Insert them into box and hook up to amp.
14. Your Done!
This diagram will help with the order I went in....
http://dbdynamixaudio.com/72/l-slot-...re-calculator/
My Order in Cliff Notes: lol
1. Orange
2. Blue
3. Teal
4. Purple
5. Yellow
6. Red
7-8. Top/Bottom
Tips:
- Make sure all your wood measurements are correct and if you wanted post them on here and we can check them before you go get the big MDF sheet cut. Also, MDF comes in one BIG sheet so plan out all the boards so you'll only have to buy one sheet. I can help with this if you get stuck...
- I put screws every 2.5" but that might be a tad overkill. Just make sure you stay around 2-2.5" away from the corners of the box and the seams where 2 boards come together since your don't want them splitting on ya.
- If you don't have a subwoofer template then you'll just have to lay on there and draw the drill holes. You know its smaller than that! You can do a few measurements or do whatever you need to do but know that its better, actually....you HAVE TO be spot on or small b/c if you cut the hole too large then you can't add wood back to it! It took us twice b/c we had to go back and shave off a few cm or whatever.
That's all I can think of for right now.....I'm sure I'll put up more later.
The following users liked this post:
Ethernaut05 (09-01-2011)
09-01-2011, 04:50 PM
#87
Dogmatic Dinosaur
I have a FI Q. Check out how similar the Icon is to the Q. A single 12" Q will get near 140db in a well-done sealed setup - tested, in my TL. A 15 is unnecessary IMO unless you want to compete or show off.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
09-01-2011, 05:01 PM
#89
Drifting
I have a FI Q. Check out how similar the Icon is to the Q. A single 12" Q will get near 140db in a well-done sealed setup - tested, in my TL. A 15 is unnecessary IMO unless you want to compete or show off.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
AND its efficient as hell.
09-01-2011, 06:55 PM
#91
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Noted Eggy; but again..how da hell do you squeeze a 15" sub into a space that MAXes out at 16"?? Again; I'm tryin like hell not to exceed 16 or so inches on depth. Your the DCON dude and your the initial playa that got me amped (no pun intended) on SSA.
You like the SUndowner amp I mentioned to run the one 12 (Still trying to figure out if it's DCON or ICON) or the one 15?
You like the SUndowner amp I mentioned to run the one 12 (Still trying to figure out if it's DCON or ICON) or the one 15?
09-01-2011, 07:22 PM
#92
Team Owner
I have a FI Q. Check out how similar the Icon is to the Q. A single 12" Q will get near 140db in a well-done sealed setup - tested, in my TL. A 15 is unnecessary IMO unless you want to compete or show off.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
None of what is discussed on here would turn out bad, so choose knowing that you cannot mess it up.
I agree, not one of these would be a bad setup but designing in a lot of head room and efficiency in the planning stages is a good idea.
09-01-2011, 07:29 PM
#93
Team Owner
Noted Eggy; but again..how da hell do you squeeze a 15" sub into a space that MAXes out at 16"?? Again; I'm tryin like hell not to exceed 16 or so inches on depth. Your the DCON dude and your the initial playa that got me amped (no pun intended) on SSA.
You like the SUndowner amp I mentioned to run the one 12 (Still trying to figure out if it's DCON or ICON) or the one 15?
You like the SUndowner amp I mentioned to run the one 12 (Still trying to figure out if it's DCON or ICON) or the one 15?
09-01-2011, 08:09 PM
#94
Dogmatic Dinosaur
TM - about 1300W on a cold burp and 1100, or less, for longer than a burp. It is 1048W at 4 ohms, but I didn't have a 3ish ohm resistor to test the wattage around 3 ohm. At near $50, I was not going to buy another resistor.
I totally agree with the 15" thoughts, I was just pointing out that it is not necessary at all if space is a concern - you might only need to reach past where a 12" could go about 1% of the time and most trunk-conscious people would not miss that. The Icon will sound great even at 1000W (if setup appropriately), so SQ should not be too much of an issue. 118-120db is more than what I would listen to during normal usage (at my age) and a single 12" Icon could do this with ease.
I totally agree with the 15" thoughts, I was just pointing out that it is not necessary at all if space is a concern - you might only need to reach past where a 12" could go about 1% of the time and most trunk-conscious people would not miss that. The Icon will sound great even at 1000W (if setup appropriately), so SQ should not be too much of an issue. 118-120db is more than what I would listen to during normal usage (at my age) and a single 12" Icon could do this with ease.
09-01-2011, 08:55 PM
#95
Three Wheelin'
09-01-2011, 11:37 PM
#96
Team Owner
Aaron, I did not realize you guys sold the Zed amps. I'm buying another on the 9th. I found a Leviathan slightly used for a good price. I really want a Leviathan II over the older amp but can't swing the new asking price and can't find any that are used. I understand you're under no obligation to negotiate prices and of course I would never be upset if you couldn't. Just wondering if there might be a little wiggle room in the price so I can buy new instead of used. I tried to PM you but I don't think you have enough posts to PM. If you want to email me, it's mat.ramsay@gmail.com. Thanks!
With that said, I've been reading that the Lev II amp will deliver closer to 180wx6 at 4ohm, and the bridged power is up by about 50w, is that correct? I know the first run had a couple issues but I assume they're fixed with the second run. I'm also doing the GF's car right now so I'll be needing a 3rd Zed amp in about 6 weeks. I'm getting this for her as a gift but in reality it's going to be my SSA/IB experiment lol.
I don't want to thread jack but which one of your subs would be most suited for IB use? I don't want to go any smaller than a 15 and wouldn't be opposed to an 18. Depending on a few things, this may end up an Ap membrane enclosure instead, vented to the outside of the car. Maybe a driver with a low QTS??
With that said, I've been reading that the Lev II amp will deliver closer to 180wx6 at 4ohm, and the bridged power is up by about 50w, is that correct? I know the first run had a couple issues but I assume they're fixed with the second run. I'm also doing the GF's car right now so I'll be needing a 3rd Zed amp in about 6 weeks. I'm getting this for her as a gift but in reality it's going to be my SSA/IB experiment lol.
I don't want to thread jack but which one of your subs would be most suited for IB use? I don't want to go any smaller than a 15 and wouldn't be opposed to an 18. Depending on a few things, this may end up an Ap membrane enclosure instead, vented to the outside of the car. Maybe a driver with a low QTS??
09-02-2011, 12:05 AM
#97
Team Owner
Also seriously considering a LevII and Dreadnought instead of two Levs.
09-02-2011, 07:58 AM
#98
Cruisin'
It seems like a single 12" Icon ported would be the best of both worlds for you. Plenty of SPL and still very good SQ. Shouldn't take up too much space at all either. 2.5cuft is smaller than mine and I can still fit plenty of stuff in my trunk. Only downside is that the Icon needs 700+rms it seems. I'd see what Aaron can do on a 12" Icon and Sundown 1200D combo. Just build your own ported box. It's very simple and I can help you with all that
09-02-2011, 08:01 AM
#99
Cruisin'
09-02-2011, 08:09 AM
#100
Cruisin'
Lower Fs (most of the time) of a larger sub equals more efficiency down low, less power required, less power compression. More cone area equals less excursion for a given SPL which means less distortion. All else being equal, larger= more efficient, less power required. My entire reasoning for a pair of 15s was SQ, not SPL. I rarely turn it up past the point that a single 12" could achieve but I'll guarantee my pair of 15s with 4mm of excursion sound better than a single 12 at xmax.
I agree, not one of these would be a bad setup but designing in a lot of head room and efficiency in the planning stages is a good idea.
I agree, not one of these would be a bad setup but designing in a lot of head room and efficiency in the planning stages is a good idea.
and the cone of the sub was barely moving.This plays into what I think I said earlier on here about building the most efficient set up you can.
09-02-2011, 08:12 AM
#101
Cruisin'
Ah, right on the product page. That is a brand new video from the customer who bought the first production Dcon 15's. He was breaking them in a little before install. He is not actually playing them free-air to listen to.
09-02-2011, 08:22 AM
#102
Cruisin'
Aaron, I did not realize you guys sold the Zed amps. I'm buying another on the 9th. I found a Leviathan slightly used for a good price. I really want a Leviathan II over the older amp but can't swing the new asking price and can't find any that are used. I understand you're under no obligation to negotiate prices and of course I would never be upset if you couldn't. Just wondering if there might be a little wiggle room in the price so I can buy new instead of used. I tried to PM you but I don't think you have enough posts to PM. If you want to email me, it's mat.ramsay@gmail.com. Thanks!
With that said, I've been reading that the Lev II amp will deliver closer to 180wx6 at 4ohm, and the bridged power is up by about 50w, is that correct? I know the first run had a couple issues but I assume they're fixed with the second run. I'm also doing the GF's car right now so I'll be needing a 3rd Zed amp in about 6 weeks. I'm getting this for her as a gift but in reality it's going to be my SSA/IB experiment lol.
I don't want to thread jack but which one of your subs would be most suited for IB use? I don't want to go any smaller than a 15 and wouldn't be opposed to an 18. Depending on a few things, this may end up an Ap membrane enclosure instead, vented to the outside of the car. Maybe a driver with a low QTS??
With that said, I've been reading that the Lev II amp will deliver closer to 180wx6 at 4ohm, and the bridged power is up by about 50w, is that correct? I know the first run had a couple issues but I assume they're fixed with the second run. I'm also doing the GF's car right now so I'll be needing a 3rd Zed amp in about 6 weeks. I'm getting this for her as a gift but in reality it's going to be my SSA/IB experiment lol.
I don't want to thread jack but which one of your subs would be most suited for IB use? I don't want to go any smaller than a 15 and wouldn't be opposed to an 18. Depending on a few things, this may end up an Ap membrane enclosure instead, vented to the outside of the car. Maybe a driver with a low QTS??
In terms of most IB suited, either the brand new Dcon 15, up coming Icon 18 (that could change between now and then), or Xcon 18. At the moment, the Dcon 15 is probably the best IB option we have. I admit, I am not an expert with membrane enclosure set up's, so I cannot offer a suggestion either way.
Hope that helps.
09-02-2011, 09:13 AM
#103
Cruisin'
Forgot to add, since it was asked about, sound deadening/dampening. The best on the market, with honest pricing and easily the most efficient application and greatest amount of information available is www.sounddeadenershowdown.com. Don, the owner of SDS is easily one of the most knowledgeable about the type of products.
09-02-2011, 09:41 AM
#104
Forgot to add, since it was asked about, sound deadening/dampening. The best on the market, with honest pricing and easily the most efficient application and greatest amount of information available is www.sounddeadenershowdown.com. Don, the owner of SDS is easily one of the most knowledgeable about the type of products.
09-02-2011, 04:10 PM
#105
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Ok...with the ICONs out of business right at the moment...and the XCONs a little too competition-level. I will officially go ahead with the purchase of a single DCON12 and the SUndown 125..sounds right.
Does the OEM stereo controls still work all the power going to the new sub OR do I still need to install a EQ or MS-8 or PEQ. Originally wanted a control knob up front to adjust bass levels; so I wasn't blasted on bass when I listen to talk radio for instance.
Does the OEM stereo controls still work all the power going to the new sub OR do I still need to install a EQ or MS-8 or PEQ. Originally wanted a control knob up front to adjust bass levels; so I wasn't blasted on bass when I listen to talk radio for instance.
09-02-2011, 04:28 PM
#106
1 12" Dcon ported (tuned low) on that amp should be plenty for you. Glad you're getting the ball rolling. Hope ya like it
As far as your connections, if you use an LOC and tap into the stock subwoofer signal in the trunk, you will still retain the "sub" control on the headunit/nav. I've got the PAC sni-35 Adjustable LOC that i'll ship ya if you want it. Just give me your address and I'll ship it out to ya. I don't need it anymore. You can also splice one end of RCA's and wire it into the sub wires in the trunk and run the RCA's on the other end of the cable into the amp...but I'm not sure if the Sundown accepts a balanced signal or not.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SNI-35.html
As far as your connections, if you use an LOC and tap into the stock subwoofer signal in the trunk, you will still retain the "sub" control on the headunit/nav. I've got the PAC sni-35 Adjustable LOC that i'll ship ya if you want it. Just give me your address and I'll ship it out to ya. I don't need it anymore. You can also splice one end of RCA's and wire it into the sub wires in the trunk and run the RCA's on the other end of the cable into the amp...but I'm not sure if the Sundown accepts a balanced signal or not.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SNI-35.html
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 09-02-2011 at 04:35 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Ethernaut05 (09-02-2011)
09-02-2011, 09:53 PM
#107
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Hey Monkey..I sent you a few Private messages...let's (and yes I know Larry is from Nebraska) sorry.; but let's Git R Done! Holler back..I need to get to hear from you!
09-03-2011, 08:54 AM
#109
Cruisin'
We don't have a set date. There has been a number of delays because we moved to a steel foundry in California that is not as fast as we need them to be. Yes, even our steel comes from the USA, VERY few brands can say that.
So with the time to get everything going with the new place, toolings set and tested, it has pushed back the release time of the new Icon. It has been killing me that the Icon has been out of production for this long. The Icon is what we started our brand on, and what set the table for the direction we were going to take all our speakers.
To add to that, our build house has been quite slammed with orders as of late, much more then just us. That has pushed back the release. With all that said, the design is finalized and what should be the final prototype is being assembled next week. Once I give it my approval, we will move into production shortly there after. It would be REALLY nice to have them shipping in a couple of weeks.
So with the time to get everything going with the new place, toolings set and tested, it has pushed back the release time of the new Icon. It has been killing me that the Icon has been out of production for this long. The Icon is what we started our brand on, and what set the table for the direction we were going to take all our speakers.
To add to that, our build house has been quite slammed with orders as of late, much more then just us. That has pushed back the release. With all that said, the design is finalized and what should be the final prototype is being assembled next week. Once I give it my approval, we will move into production shortly there after. It would be REALLY nice to have them shipping in a couple of weeks.
09-03-2011, 10:39 AM
#111
Ethernaut05
Thread Starter
Aaron..thanks for going with solid USA production through and through. Speaks volumes!!
I think Monkey (and many others are right) I think for what I'm looking for and do ONE job correctly and rock the socks off anyone who takes a ride with me; I will most likely wait "a few weeks" for the ICON 12 to hit your shelves. It's a solid product and the reviews i've read in past make me hungry to wait for that!
Aaron you still like the Intimidator 5.1 matched with your new upcoming Icon 12?
I think Monkey (and many others are right) I think for what I'm looking for and do ONE job correctly and rock the socks off anyone who takes a ride with me; I will most likely wait "a few weeks" for the ICON 12 to hit your shelves. It's a solid product and the reviews i've read in past make me hungry to wait for that!
Aaron you still like the Intimidator 5.1 matched with your new upcoming Icon 12?
09-03-2011, 12:05 PM
#114
Drifting
how bout a sundown 200.4?
200 x 4 @ 4 ohms
320 x 4 @ 2 ohms
640 x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged
400 x 4 @ 1 ohm
800 x 2 @ 2 ohms
Damping Factor > 200 @ 4 Ohms
0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
10 Hz - 40,000 Hz Frequency Response
Channel Separations: 75 dB
> 90 dB S/N Ratio
4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
Selectable HP / LP / FULL crossover
CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4)
Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration
0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost
35 - 120 Hz Variable Bass Boost Center Frequency
Stable to 1 ohm mono / 2 ohms bridged
200 x 4 @ 4 ohms
320 x 4 @ 2 ohms
640 x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged
400 x 4 @ 1 ohm
800 x 2 @ 2 ohms
Damping Factor > 200 @ 4 Ohms
0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
10 Hz - 40,000 Hz Frequency Response
Channel Separations: 75 dB
> 90 dB S/N Ratio
4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
Selectable HP / LP / FULL crossover
CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4)
Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration
0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost
35 - 120 Hz Variable Bass Boost Center Frequency
Stable to 1 ohm mono / 2 ohms bridged
09-03-2011, 12:29 PM
#115
Team Owner
What does that one run?
09-03-2011, 12:37 PM
#117
Team Owner
I HATE to throw this out there when I think the decision has been made already but I didn't realize SSA sells the IA Flatlyne. I've never heard a bad review on this thing. Supposedly works very, very well IB. Lots of IB reviews and not a bad word has been said besides the lack of specs on the 15 but I found those already. I was in the process of buying one when my AEs arrived.
09-03-2011, 12:39 PM
#118
Team Owner
09-03-2011, 12:52 PM
#120
Team Owner
Yeah, I was trying to find the dimensions on it but it looks huge. Just noticed it's an A/B. I really wanted a class D but that looks like a very nice amp. Got to keep on looking. I think I found a Leviathan I with the mods already done to stop the turn on pop for a pretty good price. Might go with that if I can't find anything else.