2005 TL w/NAV - Xbox Project (The Quest Begins...)
07-25-2006, 02:40 PM
#41
Originally Posted by ZeroWiz
Didn't mean it that way... I really appreciate your help! 
I was originally planning on plugging in the power inverter into the cig lighter of the center console, putting the power inverter under the passenger seat (so I can reach it to turn it on/off manually) and hoping that the Xbox power cord was long enough to get to the passenger seat from the trunk, underneath the carpet. If necessary, I would have used an extension cord.
Then I thought, maybe instead of putting the power inverter under the seat, put it in the trunk and extend the cig lighter instead.
It seems that maybe my first instinct was closer to how I should do it, since I do need to get to the power switch somehow (unless I just kept it on all the time, since it shuts off when the ignition is off).
I would rather not run a wire to the batttery if at all possible. From what I've read on the Xbox forums, the Xbox doesn't require much power...
I was originally planning on plugging in the power inverter into the cig lighter of the center console, putting the power inverter under the passenger seat (so I can reach it to turn it on/off manually) and hoping that the Xbox power cord was long enough to get to the passenger seat from the trunk, underneath the carpet. If necessary, I would have used an extension cord.Then I thought, maybe instead of putting the power inverter under the seat, put it in the trunk and extend the cig lighter instead.
It seems that maybe my first instinct was closer to how I should do it, since I do need to get to the power switch somehow (unless I just kept it on all the time, since it shuts off when the ignition is off).
I would rather not run a wire to the batttery if at all possible. From what I've read on the Xbox forums, the Xbox doesn't require much power...
2 problems.
- XBOX takes about 75W of power. That's not insignificant. It's more than any other gaming console out there. You want switched power. The existing auxillary switched power sources (cig lighters) use small gauge wire, small enough that I'm not comfortable running an inverter off them. Where do you find proper switched power? Dunno? If you run off the battery, it's alway on, unless you turn it off.
Take this test... When you buy your inverter, look at the plug wiring. If it's thicker than the cig lighter wiring (underneath the console, I'm not sure I'd plug it in. Yes it's all "draw dependent", but you get the idea.
Don't forget your IR solution, and it's not insignificant power. I see it uses an inverter box... those things draw lots of power too. What's funny is to use the IR solution you're converting DC power ot AC at the power converter, and that convertedr is converted AC power is being converted back to DC power for the IR module.
07-25-2006, 03:05 PM
#42
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
You need stranded wire. 16G is fine for these low voltage devices.
1) PIE X3 requires power? Huh. Blitzsafe is completely plug and play. No circuit required...
2) Splice from Nav, no circuit required, if you're OK with it. No circuit required.
3) Power from inverter, which draws from battery. Another consideration... how will you turn the inverter on/off? They usually have a big "switch on them.
Since you're doing dom's unit, plan to install the reverse camera?
1) PIE X3 requires power? Huh. Blitzsafe is completely plug and play. No circuit required...
2) Splice from Nav, no circuit required, if you're OK with it. No circuit required.
3) Power from inverter, which draws from battery. Another consideration... how will you turn the inverter on/off? They usually have a big "switch on them.
Since you're doing dom's unit, plan to install the reverse camera?
OK... so the Blitzsafe is easier to install eh? That definitely factors into my decision making, since although it would be nice to have extra inputs, I don't really think I'll be needing them anytime soon. And if I did, I guess I could always get an rca audio switch.
I don't plan on installing a reverse camera for a while. At least that's one less thing to worry about.
BTW- I hope you will just take my implicit "Thanks for your help". I really do appreciate it, but it gets kinda weird thanking you after every post...
07-25-2006, 04:00 PM
#43
Blitzsafe is easier if you consider pluggin in an add a fuse and running a wire behind the dash. I's rather star at CD-C,and know I'm in "aux" mode, than watch XM song text scrol across my dash, when I'm listening to an aux source.
No thanks required...
I can be rather forward... sometimes abrasive. Take my input with a grain of salt.
This is not my first modification, nor my first car, so I consider myself semi-qualified FWIW.
I like the reverse camera the best. You see th results of your handiwork everytime you throw it in reverse.
No thanks required...
I can be rather forward... sometimes abrasive. Take my input with a grain of salt.
This is not my first modification, nor my first car, so I consider myself semi-qualified FWIW.
I like the reverse camera the best. You see th results of your handiwork everytime you throw it in reverse.
07-25-2006, 05:22 PM
#44
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Blitzsafe is easier if you consider pluggin in an add a fuse and running a wire behind the dash. I's rather star at CD-C,and know I'm in "aux" mode, than watch XM song text scrol across my dash, when I'm listening to an aux source.
No thanks required...
I can be rather forward... sometimes abrasive. Take my input with a grain of salt.
This is not my first modification, nor my first car, so I consider myself semi-qualified FWIW.
I like the reverse camera the best. You see th results of your handiwork everytime you throw it in reverse.
No thanks required...
I can be rather forward... sometimes abrasive. Take my input with a grain of salt.
This is not my first modification, nor my first car, so I consider myself semi-qualified FWIW.
I like the reverse camera the best. You see th results of your handiwork everytime you throw it in reverse.
Dammit... now you're the second person that has mentioned the reverse camera (the 1st one being my carpool member). How much does that cost? I guess if it's not too much, I might go for it. It probably would only add another hour or two to my install job right?
At this point, I think I'm committed to the Xbox and trying to make it work, mainly because it's what I have, I'm familiar with it's operation, I have a 300GB hard drive already installed in there, etc. I also already have a power inverter (300W) that I'm gonna steal from my wife's minivan (it was being used for a DVD player...her minivan has a VCR). I also am gonna steal my currently installed Xantech Hidden Link IR system in my family room entertainment cabinet. So really, I am not spending too much, aside from Dom's unit and the BlitzSafe.
07-25-2006, 05:48 PM
#45
Sounds like you're all set. The neat part is, when you figure out the XBOX isn't working out, it's trivial to exchnage it for something else. The blitzsafe an DOMs unit are the key.
2 other suggstions. Where's the Dom's switch going?
Consider PMing DCC about getting him to make you a button... otherwise you have to extende the metal toggle switch to the front. It's not cheap, but it looks nice:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=button
Camera's about $120 more dollars, and plugs right into the DOM's unit. It is the hardest part of the install, just because it requires dremel cutting on your trunk. See this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132654
Get this camera:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMALL...QQcmdZViewItem
You may still get free shipping if you mention Kenny's post o Acurazine.
Your all set, get to work.
Remember to get quality RCA's to run from the blitzsafe up front, to the back.
2 other suggstions. Where's the Dom's switch going?
Consider PMing DCC about getting him to make you a button... otherwise you have to extende the metal toggle switch to the front. It's not cheap, but it looks nice:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=button
Camera's about $120 more dollars, and plugs right into the DOM's unit. It is the hardest part of the install, just because it requires dremel cutting on your trunk. See this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132654
Get this camera:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMALL...QQcmdZViewItem
You may still get free shipping if you mention Kenny's post o Acurazine.
Your all set, get to work.
Remember to get quality RCA's to run from the blitzsafe up front, to the back.
Originally Posted by ZeroWiz
OK. You talked me into the blitzsafe. Looking at that component, it does look quite simple compared to the PIE.
Dammit... now you're the second person that has mentioned the reverse camera (the 1st one being my carpool member). How much does that cost? I guess if it's not too much, I might go for it. It probably would only add another hour or two to my install job right?
At this point, I think I'm committed to the Xbox and trying to make it work, mainly because it's what I have, I'm familiar with it's operation, I have a 300GB hard drive already installed in there, etc. I also already have a power inverter (300W) that I'm gonna steal from my wife's minivan (it was being used for a DVD player...her minivan has a VCR). I also am gonna steal my currently installed Xantech Hidden Link IR system in my family room entertainment cabinet. So really, I am not spending too much, aside from Dom's unit and the BlitzSafe.
Dammit... now you're the second person that has mentioned the reverse camera (the 1st one being my carpool member). How much does that cost? I guess if it's not too much, I might go for it. It probably would only add another hour or two to my install job right?
At this point, I think I'm committed to the Xbox and trying to make it work, mainly because it's what I have, I'm familiar with it's operation, I have a 300GB hard drive already installed in there, etc. I also already have a power inverter (300W) that I'm gonna steal from my wife's minivan (it was being used for a DVD player...her minivan has a VCR). I also am gonna steal my currently installed Xantech Hidden Link IR system in my family room entertainment cabinet. So really, I am not spending too much, aside from Dom's unit and the BlitzSafe.
07-25-2006, 06:53 PM
#46
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Kennedy
The neat part is, when you figure out the XBOX isn't working out, it's trivial to exchnage it for something else.
DCC's button is a very nice addition, but there are other toggle switches that works. The Radio Shack toggle button that is in my DIY is popular as well. You can always use the toggle switch that comes with the Dom.
For me, the camera was the easiest part of the install! The upper trunk lining is a breeze to take out and using a rotary tool was actually fun!
Theres a current discussion on cameras sold by "Wendy" on eBay. The video quality is excellent, but you will need to add some silicon sealant on it to prevent it from fogging.
Definitely go for shielded RCA cables. Since your XBOX is in the trunk, your cables don't need to be extremely long... unless of course you want the possibility of mounting it somewhere else later or switching to another device
.Remember that the video and audio cables might be separate lengths since Dom's unit will handle the video and the PIE/Blitzsafe will handle the audio. Dom's will be mounted in trunk and the PIE/Blitzsafe is mounted in the front center console. I have a 13' video RCA and a two 4' audio RCA cables for my install.
07-26-2006, 08:38 AM
#47
Intermediate
Thread Starter
OK, the BlitzSafe has been ordered. I like the look of DCC's DVD button, but I don't want to impose on him to make it for me, so I think I'll head over to Radio Shack and buy one of those toggle switches and try to copy what datmrman did.
Since the rearview camera is another $120 + extra work, I think I will postpone that for "phase 2" of this project. The main priority for me right now is to get my music/media in the car as soon as possible.
I still have a question regarding "tapping" into the cigarette lighter for Dom's unit. I plan on using the center console cigarette lighter outlet to plug the power inverter into (to power the Xbox and IR extender). So, should I "tap" into the front cigarette lighter or is it more prudent to do the "add-a-circuit" and run the wire to the trunk power the Dom?
Also please treat me as a complete newbie (I don't mind, because I am!) and what exactly is the process of "adding a circuit". Is it pretty much what I think it is where you plug in something into the fuse box and run a wire all the way back?
I'm sure once I see all this and try to do it, it will all come clear, but right now there is this "shroud of mystery" about all this stuff, and I'm trying to get a clearer picture. This is the same way I felt when I first started working on my home theater (I was completely clueless), now I know how to set up a ceiling-mounted projector, a 100" screen, wiring for a 7.1 surround system, putting acoustic treatments on walls, running IR extenders, etc. So I'm fairly certain I can learn this stuff for the car, it will just take a bunch more reading and relying on you guys for help.
Thanks again!
Since the rearview camera is another $120 + extra work, I think I will postpone that for "phase 2" of this project. The main priority for me right now is to get my music/media in the car as soon as possible.
I still have a question regarding "tapping" into the cigarette lighter for Dom's unit. I plan on using the center console cigarette lighter outlet to plug the power inverter into (to power the Xbox and IR extender). So, should I "tap" into the front cigarette lighter or is it more prudent to do the "add-a-circuit" and run the wire to the trunk power the Dom?
Also please treat me as a complete newbie (I don't mind, because I am!) and what exactly is the process of "adding a circuit". Is it pretty much what I think it is where you plug in something into the fuse box and run a wire all the way back?
I'm sure once I see all this and try to do it, it will all come clear, but right now there is this "shroud of mystery" about all this stuff, and I'm trying to get a clearer picture. This is the same way I felt when I first started working on my home theater (I was completely clueless), now I know how to set up a ceiling-mounted projector, a 100" screen, wiring for a 7.1 surround system, putting acoustic treatments on walls, running IR extenders, etc. So I'm fairly certain I can learn this stuff for the car, it will just take a bunch more reading and relying on you guys for help.
Thanks again!
07-26-2006, 08:44 AM
#48
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by datmrman
Remember that the video and audio cables might be separate lengths since Dom's unit will handle the video and the PIE/Blitzsafe will handle the audio. Dom's will be mounted in trunk and the PIE/Blitzsafe is mounted in the front center console. I have a 13' video RCA and a two 4' audio RCA cables for my install.
07-26-2006, 11:20 AM
#49
Safety Car
This is what a mini add-a-circuit looks like. You can find them at AutoZone.
Basically you pull out the 7.5A fuse that currently occupies slot #32, and plug it into the head of this add-a-circuit with an additional 7.5A fuse. The other end just needs to be extended to whereever you like.
You can tap the center console lighter and still be able to use it for the power inverter. I have mine powering the Mediagate (5V/2A) via power adapter and Dom's unit via tap.
It's really up to you which method you use; both methods work.
Yes, for my install I ran RCA cables to the center console. 13' composite video RCA from Doms in trunk and 4' audio RCA interconnects from PIE near the driver side foot well.
Basically you pull out the 7.5A fuse that currently occupies slot #32, and plug it into the head of this add-a-circuit with an additional 7.5A fuse. The other end just needs to be extended to whereever you like.
You can tap the center console lighter and still be able to use it for the power inverter. I have mine powering the Mediagate (5V/2A) via power adapter and Dom's unit via tap.
It's really up to you which method you use; both methods work.
Yes, for my install I ran RCA cables to the center console. 13' composite video RCA from Doms in trunk and 4' audio RCA interconnects from PIE near the driver side foot well.
07-26-2006, 11:30 AM
#50
Originally Posted by ZeroWiz
OK, the BlitzSafe has been ordered. I like the look of DCC's DVD button, but I don't want to impose on him to make it for me, so I think I'll head over to Radio Shack and buy one of those toggle switches and try to copy what datmrman did.
Since the rearview camera is another $120 + extra work, I think I will postpone that for "phase 2" of this project. The main priority for me right now is to get my music/media in the car as soon as possible.
I still have a question regarding "tapping" into the cigarette lighter for Dom's unit. I plan on using the center console cigarette lighter outlet to plug the power inverter into (to power the Xbox and IR extender). So, should I "tap" into the front cigarette lighter or is it more prudent to do the "add-a-circuit" and run the wire to the trunk power the Dom?
Also please treat me as a complete newbie (I don't mind, because I am!) and what exactly is the process of "adding a circuit". Is it pretty much what I think it is where you plug in something into the fuse box and run a wire all the way back?
I'm sure once I see all this and try to do it, it will all come clear, but right now there is this "shroud of mystery" about all this stuff, and I'm trying to get a clearer picture. This is the same way I felt when I first started working on my home theater (I was completely clueless), now I know how to set up a ceiling-mounted projector, a 100" screen, wiring for a 7.1 surround system, putting acoustic treatments on walls, running IR extenders, etc. So I'm fairly certain I can learn this stuff for the car, it will just take a bunch more reading and relying on you guys for help.
Thanks again!
Since the rearview camera is another $120 + extra work, I think I will postpone that for "phase 2" of this project. The main priority for me right now is to get my music/media in the car as soon as possible.
I still have a question regarding "tapping" into the cigarette lighter for Dom's unit. I plan on using the center console cigarette lighter outlet to plug the power inverter into (to power the Xbox and IR extender). So, should I "tap" into the front cigarette lighter or is it more prudent to do the "add-a-circuit" and run the wire to the trunk power the Dom?
Also please treat me as a complete newbie (I don't mind, because I am!) and what exactly is the process of "adding a circuit". Is it pretty much what I think it is where you plug in something into the fuse box and run a wire all the way back?
I'm sure once I see all this and try to do it, it will all come clear, but right now there is this "shroud of mystery" about all this stuff, and I'm trying to get a clearer picture. This is the same way I felt when I first started working on my home theater (I was completely clueless), now I know how to set up a ceiling-mounted projector, a 100" screen, wiring for a 7.1 surround system, putting acoustic treatments on walls, running IR extenders, etc. So I'm fairly certain I can learn this stuff for the car, it will just take a bunch more reading and relying on you guys for help.
Thanks again!
The add a circuit is designed to add another fuse loaction in the fusebox only. If you tap the power off the cigarette lighter, you only need a simple inline fuse.
The cigarette plug in the console is SWITCHED (on/off with the car) power. It's perfectly fine to tap the hot lead from that to power dom's unit. As I suggested, you could also tap the pin2 of the 8 pin nav connector since it's "right there".
Tapping another hot lead from the center console cig plug to your inverter places that circuit under a relatively high load. These fuses are like the breaker box in your house). That center console rides the accessory fuse circuit (I believe your radio and few other interior items ride that power circuit as well. Taping another cig lighter off that exisitng circuit may cause your accessory fuse to blow becasue of the power concumption of the inverter/xbox/IR system... Which is why I suggested creating a NEW circuit from the battery.
Make sense?
07-26-2006, 03:46 PM
#51
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
I don't think you're hearing me...
The add a circuit is designed to add another fuse loaction in the fusebox only. If you tap the power off the cigarette lighter, you only need a simple inline fuse.
The cigarette plug in the console is SWITCHED (on/off with the car) power. It's perfectly fine to tap the hot lead from that to power dom's unit. As I suggested, you could also tap the pin2 of the 8 pin nav connector since it's "right there".
Tapping another hot lead from the center console cig plug to your inverter places that circuit under a relatively high load. These fuses are like the breaker box in your house). That center console rides the accessory fuse circuit (I believe your radio and few other interior items ride that power circuit as well. Taping another cig lighter off that exisitng circuit may cause your accessory fuse to blow becasue of the power concumption of the inverter/xbox/IR system... Which is why I suggested creating a NEW circuit from the battery.
Make sense?
The add a circuit is designed to add another fuse loaction in the fusebox only. If you tap the power off the cigarette lighter, you only need a simple inline fuse.
The cigarette plug in the console is SWITCHED (on/off with the car) power. It's perfectly fine to tap the hot lead from that to power dom's unit. As I suggested, you could also tap the pin2 of the 8 pin nav connector since it's "right there".
Tapping another hot lead from the center console cig plug to your inverter places that circuit under a relatively high load. These fuses are like the breaker box in your house). That center console rides the accessory fuse circuit (I believe your radio and few other interior items ride that power circuit as well. Taping another cig lighter off that exisitng circuit may cause your accessory fuse to blow becasue of the power concumption of the inverter/xbox/IR system... Which is why I suggested creating a NEW circuit from the battery.
Make sense?
1. The center console cig lighter plug is off of the 7.5A fuse from the fusebox, and may not be enough amps to power the inverter when an Xbox is connected to it. (is that right?).
2. It is fine to use that center console cig lighter circuit by tapping into it to power Dom's unit, IF I don't want to use the Nav's power lead. OR I can put that mini-add-a-circuit into fuse spot #32 and run the wire all the way to Dom's unit.
3. I SHOULD run a new circuit directly from the battery to my power inverter so that my Xbox/IR systems are powered properly.
4. The downside to no.3 is that I have to remember to turn off the power inverter everytime I leave the car or am not using it or else it drains the battery.
Is that more or less correct?
07-26-2006, 04:13 PM
#52
Originally Posted by ZeroWiz
OK. I think I (almost) understand now.
1. The center console cig lighter plug is off of the 7.5A fuse from the fusebox, and may not be enough amps to power the inverter when an Xbox is connected to it. (is that right?).
2. It is fine to use that center console cig lighter circuit by tapping into it to power Dom's unit, IF I don't want to use the Nav's power lead. OR I can put that mini-add-a-circuit into fuse spot #32 and run the wire all the way to Dom's unit.
3. I SHOULD run a new circuit directly from the battery to my power inverter so that my Xbox/IR systems are powered properly.
4. The downside to no.3 is that I have to remember to turn off the power inverter everytime I leave the car or am not using it or else it drains the battery.
Is that more or less correct?
1. The center console cig lighter plug is off of the 7.5A fuse from the fusebox, and may not be enough amps to power the inverter when an Xbox is connected to it. (is that right?).
2. It is fine to use that center console cig lighter circuit by tapping into it to power Dom's unit, IF I don't want to use the Nav's power lead. OR I can put that mini-add-a-circuit into fuse spot #32 and run the wire all the way to Dom's unit.
3. I SHOULD run a new circuit directly from the battery to my power inverter so that my Xbox/IR systems are powered properly.
4. The downside to no.3 is that I have to remember to turn off the power inverter everytime I leave the car or am not using it or else it drains the battery.
Is that more or less correct?
2) Yes
3) Yes
4) Yes - Exactly. An easy solution is to interrupt the circuit with a switched relay. (hit a switch and the circuit closes, powering the inverter)... How all aftermarket fog lights are wired up.
07-27-2006, 08:16 AM
#53
Intermediate
Thread Starter
OK cool. I am starting to grasp the entire scope of this project now. Luckily, I have enlisted the help of a co-worker who is familiar with power issues (he owns a boat and says he's wired up all of his stuff: gps, fish tracker, radio, etc. to his battery and is familiar with the stuff you've been mentioning). And i've done further research, apparently this power inverter install will be similar to a car amp install, so I've read up on those. This page: http://www.caraudiohelp.com/how_to_i...tall_a_car_amp was very informative. (The added bonus is when I decide to upgrade my sound system and install a car amp later on, I will have the experience then...)
If I receive the AV switch and the Blitzsafe by tomorrow, I may "go for it" this weekend. Will keep you guys posted...thanks.
If I receive the AV switch and the Blitzsafe by tomorrow, I may "go for it" this weekend. Will keep you guys posted...thanks.
07-27-2006, 01:59 PM
#54
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Maybe I jumped the gun on the "go for it" this weekend statement. I think I have a lot more research to do, but maybe I can accomplish some of the parts of this project on separate "install days".
Just a quick checklist to see if I'm on the right path...
There are 3 major "parts" of my installation:
1. Installation of Dom's Unit
2. Installation of Blitzsafe
3. Installation of Power Inverter using a direct wire + fuse + relay switch from the battery
1. Installation of Dom's Unit
The things I need to disassemble/remove are:
1.1. Rear seat bottom (optionally remove the rear upper back as well for more "working room")
1.2. Spare tire cover and Trunk lining
1.3. Center console (from shifter going towards the rear of the car)
2. Blitzsafe
The things I need to disassemble/remove are:
2.1. Driver's side tray under the steering wheel
2.2. ???? (Do I need to remove the center tray including the head unit/navi so I can plug the blitzsafe in and run rca cables to the center console?)
3. Power Inverter
Assuming that we will install some sort of relay switch so that I can power the inverter from the drivers seat, that means we can keep the inverter in the trunk near the Xbox. If that is the case, the things I need to disassemble/remove are:
3.1. All of the things that were already removed from parts 1.x and 2.x above right?
3.2. Possible location of pass thru wire to get from battery to inside the car
My plan was to do all the manual labor of removing all the stuff on a Saturday, then have my co-worker come over on Sunday and help me install all the equipment, wiring and electrical, then hopefully be able to put it all back together by the end of Sunday. Is that feasible?
If it's too much work to finish in two days, what do you guys figure is the best way to divide
it?
Just a quick checklist to see if I'm on the right path...
There are 3 major "parts" of my installation:
1. Installation of Dom's Unit
2. Installation of Blitzsafe
3. Installation of Power Inverter using a direct wire + fuse + relay switch from the battery
1. Installation of Dom's Unit
The things I need to disassemble/remove are:
1.1. Rear seat bottom (optionally remove the rear upper back as well for more "working room")
1.2. Spare tire cover and Trunk lining
1.3. Center console (from shifter going towards the rear of the car)
2. Blitzsafe
The things I need to disassemble/remove are:
2.1. Driver's side tray under the steering wheel
2.2. ???? (Do I need to remove the center tray including the head unit/navi so I can plug the blitzsafe in and run rca cables to the center console?)
3. Power Inverter
Assuming that we will install some sort of relay switch so that I can power the inverter from the drivers seat, that means we can keep the inverter in the trunk near the Xbox. If that is the case, the things I need to disassemble/remove are:
3.1. All of the things that were already removed from parts 1.x and 2.x above right?
3.2. Possible location of pass thru wire to get from battery to inside the car
My plan was to do all the manual labor of removing all the stuff on a Saturday, then have my co-worker come over on Sunday and help me install all the equipment, wiring and electrical, then hopefully be able to put it all back together by the end of Sunday. Is that feasible?
If it's too much work to finish in two days, what do you guys figure is the best way to divide
it?
07-27-2006, 03:32 PM
#55
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ahhh.... more research leads to more questions...
After reading through the forums, I found this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...constant+power
The pictures and wiring diagrams seem to indicate that the cig lighter sockets can provide up to 15A. The Xbox requires 100Watts, which by my math (correct me if I'm wrong) is about 8.3A. The Power inverter I have can provide up to 300 Watts and can take an input source of .5A to 30A.
Do you guys still think that I should/need to go direct to the battery for the power inverter to provide power to the Xbox?
After reading through the forums, I found this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...constant+power
The pictures and wiring diagrams seem to indicate that the cig lighter sockets can provide up to 15A. The Xbox requires 100Watts, which by my math (correct me if I'm wrong) is about 8.3A. The Power inverter I have can provide up to 300 Watts and can take an input source of .5A to 30A.
Do you guys still think that I should/need to go direct to the battery for the power inverter to provide power to the Xbox?
07-27-2006, 08:34 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central NJ
Age: 39
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I did mine in two days, but that was taking my time and making everything look clean. Looking into any part of my car, you would have no idea i have a navi/dvd converter, or a media player.
Personally, I'd do all the install in one day, and then do all the putting back together of everything (seats, console etc.) on another day. This way, one day you have everything apart, so any adjustments that need to be made can be done.
The way I went about this was (and yes i realize this will make me look like a freak, but I like making what I do look professional)
Friday evening:
take 20 min. to make a quick sketch of where things will be placed. (Navi/DVD converter, wiring, blitzsafe adapter, power inverter, where the wires will be run).
Saturday morning (around 8:00ish) - late morning/early afternoon (around 11:00) :
remove everything. Trunk lining (only the center and right side), rear seats (bottom portion first, then the top portion; i believe all the bolts are 10mm), center console, silver trim, driver side - side panels next to the radio, and the part right below the steering wheel. This should actually take you the longest, because you have to locate every screw, bolt, clip, etc. (It's a real pain in the ass, and patience really is a virtue when doing this.)
What I did next isn't necessary, but I pretty much placed all the pieces where they'd be installed. (i.e. put the Navi/DVD converter in the trunk, and ran the wires from the trunk to where my center console would've been. Then running the wires from the center console to my USA Spec. etc. etc.) This way, I knew exactly where the pieces would go, and would not have to worry about where I would put them when doing the actual install.
After doing that, I went out for lunch.
After coming back (from about 12:00 - 2:30), I took the center console and dremeled out what I needed to (for my RCA coupler). Then I took the accessory compartment out and dremeled holes in the lower one (the one w/ the 12V outlet). This was for my ipod wire, as well as my 2 IR wires (one going to my Navi/DVD module, and the other to my media player).
Mid afternoon (2:30) to Evening (8:30):
This is when i did all the wiring. To get the wires from the trunk to the center console, I pretty much ran them along the bulk of wires (i believe they were taped up with yellow tape) that were under the rear seats. Then I used a hanger to run them underneath the carpeting.
After that, I connected everything and tapped the wires that need to be tapped. Then I tested it all out. I adjusted anything that needed adjusting, and/or fixed any problems I might've had. Then, I zip tied everything, and taped it all down. (at least the stuff running into the trunk. The stuff in/near the center console/radio, i just zip tied to other wires.)
As for the things that will be removed in order to get to the car battery, hopefully someone can chime in b/c I didn't need to do that
Sunday afternoon:
Reinstall everything. It took me about 1 1/2 - 2 hours to re-install everything. I had actually labeled tiny bags with where the screws were (i.e. all the screws in the trunk went in one bag, all the screws in the radio/navi unit were in another bag. etc). This way, I was never missing a screw.
Wow...this was a lot longer than I thought.
Hope this helps!
Personally, I'd do all the install in one day, and then do all the putting back together of everything (seats, console etc.) on another day. This way, one day you have everything apart, so any adjustments that need to be made can be done.
The way I went about this was (and yes i realize this will make me look like a freak, but I like making what I do look professional)
Friday evening:
take 20 min. to make a quick sketch of where things will be placed. (Navi/DVD converter, wiring, blitzsafe adapter, power inverter, where the wires will be run).
Saturday morning (around 8:00ish) - late morning/early afternoon (around 11:00) :
remove everything. Trunk lining (only the center and right side), rear seats (bottom portion first, then the top portion; i believe all the bolts are 10mm), center console, silver trim, driver side - side panels next to the radio, and the part right below the steering wheel. This should actually take you the longest, because you have to locate every screw, bolt, clip, etc. (It's a real pain in the ass, and patience really is a virtue when doing this.)
What I did next isn't necessary, but I pretty much placed all the pieces where they'd be installed. (i.e. put the Navi/DVD converter in the trunk, and ran the wires from the trunk to where my center console would've been. Then running the wires from the center console to my USA Spec. etc. etc.) This way, I knew exactly where the pieces would go, and would not have to worry about where I would put them when doing the actual install.
After doing that, I went out for lunch.
After coming back (from about 12:00 - 2:30), I took the center console and dremeled out what I needed to (for my RCA coupler). Then I took the accessory compartment out and dremeled holes in the lower one (the one w/ the 12V outlet). This was for my ipod wire, as well as my 2 IR wires (one going to my Navi/DVD module, and the other to my media player).
Mid afternoon (2:30) to Evening (8:30):
This is when i did all the wiring. To get the wires from the trunk to the center console, I pretty much ran them along the bulk of wires (i believe they were taped up with yellow tape) that were under the rear seats. Then I used a hanger to run them underneath the carpeting.
After that, I connected everything and tapped the wires that need to be tapped. Then I tested it all out. I adjusted anything that needed adjusting, and/or fixed any problems I might've had. Then, I zip tied everything, and taped it all down. (at least the stuff running into the trunk. The stuff in/near the center console/radio, i just zip tied to other wires.)
As for the things that will be removed in order to get to the car battery, hopefully someone can chime in b/c I didn't need to do that
Sunday afternoon:
Reinstall everything. It took me about 1 1/2 - 2 hours to re-install everything. I had actually labeled tiny bags with where the screws were (i.e. all the screws in the trunk went in one bag, all the screws in the radio/navi unit were in another bag. etc). This way, I was never missing a screw.
Wow...this was a lot longer than I thought.
Hope this helps!
07-28-2006, 04:55 AM
#57
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks that is immensely helpful! The little bags for screws is a good idea. I will try to model my workflow as meticulously as you have.
07-31-2006, 08:42 AM
#58
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Just an update:
I and two of my friends performed the installation yesterday and it was successful. We took pictures and I will be posting them soon, I just need to take some more pictures of the finished install.
I would like to thank Kennedy, datmrman, and Laxplaya for their input/ideas/suggestions, and also all those who have taken the time to post pictures of their respective installs, without those DIY step-by-step guides with pictures, this would not have been possible.
The one thing I learned was that this install was definitely beyond my comfort level of skill with regards to the electrical stuff. Luckily, one of my friends was quite experienced with that, so with him providing that knowledge, and me and my other friend doing all the manual labor and Xbox-related stuff, we were able to do it all in one (very long hot) day.
Stay tuned for the pictures (and when I have time, a video as well)...
I and two of my friends performed the installation yesterday and it was successful. We took pictures and I will be posting them soon, I just need to take some more pictures of the finished install.
I would like to thank Kennedy, datmrman, and Laxplaya for their input/ideas/suggestions, and also all those who have taken the time to post pictures of their respective installs, without those DIY step-by-step guides with pictures, this would not have been possible.
The one thing I learned was that this install was definitely beyond my comfort level of skill with regards to the electrical stuff. Luckily, one of my friends was quite experienced with that, so with him providing that knowledge, and me and my other friend doing all the manual labor and Xbox-related stuff, we were able to do it all in one (very long hot) day.
Stay tuned for the pictures (and when I have time, a video as well)...
07-31-2006, 03:53 PM
#60
Intermediate
My setup
I haven't been on these forums in a while, but noticed this one about the xbox. I've had my modded xbox installed and working with sound, and can be turned on in the center console for 5 months now. I got some wireless controllers and they work fine. Everywhere I go all my friends want to come in my car so they can play the old classics like NBA Jam for Sega, or Street Fighter II for SNES. I have a 500 gig hard drive in the xbox. I have over 40 xbox games, 30 movies, tons of music videos, etc...
The xbox:
http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0711yn9.jpg
The center console (a button to turn the xbox on, and a switch to switch between the navi and the xbox)
http://img267.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0712ef5.jpg
http://img427.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0714dv1.jpg
the 'X' on screen
http://img427.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0718ip4.jpg
The Dashboard
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0719gk3.jpg
Street Fighter II for SNES (one of the fan favorites)
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0720qs1.jpg
I'd show pictures of the wires, but there aren't any to see except those in the trunk. The rest are under the backseat and carpet. If I wasn't such a newb I wouldn't have put the links, but would have posted the pics here (thought it was 'img' tags, but whatever).
I used an FM transmitter for audio. I used Vsokolov's Navi converter. They are both hidden behind the navi unit in the trunk.
The wires out of the front of the xbox are the wires I used to turn it on from the front. The xbox just wants a quick ground signal to a certain pin in the back of the front panel and it will turn on/off. The other wire is just grounded. I added the wire tap things (sorry don't know what they are called) so that I just have to unplug 4 plugs to take it out. The small bungie cords connect to metal and the box has never moved on me. I was thinking about putting it permantely hidden in the trunk area in parts, but then I realized I like to take it out and use it on TVs when I got on trips and stuff. I also am constantly updating the dashboard and the programs on it, so its easier for me to leave it so that I can get it in and out fast.
The xbox:
http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0711yn9.jpg
The center console (a button to turn the xbox on, and a switch to switch between the navi and the xbox)
http://img267.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0712ef5.jpg
http://img427.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0714dv1.jpg
the 'X' on screen
http://img427.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0718ip4.jpg
The Dashboard
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0719gk3.jpg
Street Fighter II for SNES (one of the fan favorites)
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf0720qs1.jpg
I'd show pictures of the wires, but there aren't any to see except those in the trunk. The rest are under the backseat and carpet. If I wasn't such a newb I wouldn't have put the links, but would have posted the pics here (thought it was 'img' tags, but whatever).
I used an FM transmitter for audio. I used Vsokolov's Navi converter. They are both hidden behind the navi unit in the trunk.
The wires out of the front of the xbox are the wires I used to turn it on from the front. The xbox just wants a quick ground signal to a certain pin in the back of the front panel and it will turn on/off. The other wire is just grounded. I added the wire tap things (sorry don't know what they are called) so that I just have to unplug 4 plugs to take it out. The small bungie cords connect to metal and the box has never moved on me. I was thinking about putting it permantely hidden in the trunk area in parts, but then I realized I like to take it out and use it on TVs when I got on trips and stuff. I also am constantly updating the dashboard and the programs on it, so its easier for me to leave it so that I can get it in and out fast.
08-01-2006, 08:20 AM
#61
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Cool. I knew I wasn't the first one to think about doing this. Have you considered using a remote control? It's hard to manipulate the Xbox controller with one hand on the steering wheel...
I am working on the pics right now, and have them up on my website, but reformatting/resizing them for posting here...
I am working on the pics right now, and have them up on my website, but reformatting/resizing them for posting here...
08-01-2006, 08:36 AM
#62
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Xbox Installation Pictures (Part 1)
Here are the pictures of the installation. These are meant as a supplement, not replacement, to the excellent DIY guides that have been posted before. Many of the steps are the same, but there are some that weren't documented in other guides, so hopefully this will be helpful to others when they decide to do something similar.
A big thanks to my friends A.D. and G.C. for helping me with the install! Also big thanks to forum members: Kennedy, datmrman, LaxPlaya, and the others who have gone before and written up guides, as well as those who replied in this thread.
1. Removal of the back seat bottom cushion. This was just one 10mm bolt and pulling the two "hook-release" latches under the seat.
2. This shows the back seat removed. There were 2 bolts slightly below the headrest that were a little difficult to remove because they are well-hidden.
3. This shows the spare tire cover/center trunk lining removed.
4. This shows the rear plastic trunk panel removed.
5. Right-side trunk lining removed, exposing the DVD navigation unit.
6. This is the BlitzSafe V.2/AUX unit. You remove the white harness from the back of the factory head unit, plug it into the BlitzSafe, then plug the BlitzSafe into the factory head unit. It truly is plug and play. Right after this, we did a quick test using an Ipod just to make sure the BlitzSafe was functioning properly. Notice that I did not remove the head unit.
7. The BlitzSafe fits perfectly snug under the lower cubby hole compartment of the center console. No double-sided tape necessary.
8. The TVandNav2Go unit is affixed with velcro to the right-side of the trunk.
9. The TVandNav2go wires were grounded to the factory grounding bolt.
A big thanks to my friends A.D. and G.C. for helping me with the install! Also big thanks to forum members: Kennedy, datmrman, LaxPlaya, and the others who have gone before and written up guides, as well as those who replied in this thread.
1. Removal of the back seat bottom cushion. This was just one 10mm bolt and pulling the two "hook-release" latches under the seat.
2. This shows the back seat removed. There were 2 bolts slightly below the headrest that were a little difficult to remove because they are well-hidden.
3. This shows the spare tire cover/center trunk lining removed.
4. This shows the rear plastic trunk panel removed.
5. Right-side trunk lining removed, exposing the DVD navigation unit.
6. This is the BlitzSafe V.2/AUX unit. You remove the white harness from the back of the factory head unit, plug it into the BlitzSafe, then plug the BlitzSafe into the factory head unit. It truly is plug and play. Right after this, we did a quick test using an Ipod just to make sure the BlitzSafe was functioning properly. Notice that I did not remove the head unit.
7. The BlitzSafe fits perfectly snug under the lower cubby hole compartment of the center console. No double-sided tape necessary.
8. The TVandNav2Go unit is affixed with velcro to the right-side of the trunk.
9. The TVandNav2go wires were grounded to the factory grounding bolt.
08-01-2006, 08:49 AM
#63
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Xbox Installation Pictures (Part 2)
10. A "home run" wire was connected to provide sufficient juice for the power inverter (which would provide power to the Xbox and the Xantech IR system). An inline 30A fuse was used and the wire was connected to a relay inside the cabin which also had a 3A fuse provided by a "Mini Add-A-Circuit" coming from the inside fuse box. This was recommended so that the power inverter would only work when ignition key is in the "ACC (I)" or "ON (II)" position. With the battery home, and 30A fuse, we have a clean 300Watts of power, so there is plenty of headroom to plug more things (camera battery charger, laptop, etc.) in if necessary to the power inverter.
11. Before we could run the wire from the battery to the inside of the car, we had to remove that stabilizer bar.
12. With the stabilizer bar removed, we can now work our way toward the plastic/rubber boot that serves as the entry point to the inner cabin. The wire should drop behind the dashboard, but there is no need to remove the dashboard to fish it out.
13. Here is the plastic piece with the rubber boot removed. You can see all the wires that go into the inside of the car. We first did a trial insertion to make sure that the wire would drop inside.
14. To access the wire from the inside, we had to remove the plastic panels on the passenger side (left, right, and underneath dash), then you can just peel off the carpet and have access to the firewall.
15. With the trial "wire drop" successful, we pulled it back out, and this time we covered up the plastic piece with the factory rubber boot, then punctured a hole in the rubber and inserted the wire through the hole. Afterwards, some extra electrical tape was applied to make sure there were no seams and water would not get in.
16. We dremeled and painted a Leviton QuickPort wall outlet and snapped in 3 RCA jacks. The mistake here is that we mounted it vertically and the wires coming in from the back would not fit if the cupholder was installed. Since we couldn't undo the vertical mounting (hole was already cut), we improvised and disassembled the cupholder so that the sliding cupholder cover was always open. This provided enough room for the wires to plug in the back.
17. This is the RCA video cable coming from the TVandNav2go unit. We ran all the wires going to and from the trunk by going underneath the carpet.
18. This shows a picture of the video toggle switch (the one on the right with the white dot) bought from Radio Shack. This was the suggested place to mount it according to the friendly guys at the AcuraZine forums and it worked out great and looks almost "stock". The TVandNav2go switch toggles between the Navigation system video and the Xbox video.
08-01-2006, 09:01 AM
#64
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Xbox Installation Pictures (Part 3)
19. Since the Xbox would be in the trunk, we had to find a way to keep it in place and not slide around back there. We bought a bag of Stanley 3" L-brackets and screwed them into the spare tire cover.
20. We used a keyboard wrist pad (memory foam) cut in half to be the Xbox "shock absorber". Obviously the "cutting in half" part was botched a little bit... oh well.
21. Here is the Xbox as it would be mounted in the trunk. Notice the hole we cut to the right of it, this is where the AV cable, power cable, and any other wires would pass through.
22. This is the inside of the center console. We removed the bottom plastic cover so that the wires that we previously fished under the carpet would have a spot to come in. The Xbox AV cable plugs into the Leviton QuickPort RCA outlet.The Xantech IR connecting block also is kept here. This is where the IR emitters and the IR sensor is plugged into. The connecting block also requires a small amount of power so by storing it here, we keep it close to the power inverter under the driver's seat.
23. This is the Power Inverter under the driver's seat. The white extension cord is the only thing I had laying around the house at the time so I used it. I will replace it with a much shorter, nicer quality, black-colored one soon. The power switch for the inverter is easily reachable by just wrapping my hand around to the back, even when sitting on the driver's seat.
24. The Mad Catz Xbox wireless controller fits just fine in the glove compartment, with room for another one.
25. This is the Xantech IR Receiver which is originally intended to be used in an Entertainment Cabinet, but I put it in my car instead. There are smaller Xantech "Dinky Link" units that would probably be better to use here, but I just decided to use what I already had, to save on costs. Also, I plan on re-doing the velcro to make it look more flush on the bottom.
26. The Xbox Media Center Extender remote fits perfectly in the top compartment of the center console, as long as it's diagonal!
27. This is how you control the Xbox using the remote control. Just point it at the IR receiver and the signals get sent back to the IR emitter in the trunk.
28. This picture is intended to show the IR emitter that is "stickied" on top of the remote control sensor. So, any IR signals sent to the front IR Receiver (in the front console cubby hole) will be sent back here to be transmitted to the front of the Xbox.
29. This shows the Xbox as it sits in the trunk. I ran an extension cable to the power inverter so that I can easily plug in/out the Xbox and other things if necessary.
30. Just a further out shot to see the entire trunk. Lots of space left.
08-01-2006, 09:11 AM
#65
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Xbox Installation Pictures (Part 4)
31. Xbox powered on and booting up.
32. This is the first menu that comes up after boot-up. Its possible to boot directly into XBMC (Xbox Media Center), but I chose not to for various reasons.
33. XBMC is now running and showing the Main Menu.
34. Music section of XBMC. You can customize the view to show album covers or a list view for quicker scrolling.
35. Here is a shot of a song being played with visualizations turned on.
36. I ripped a couple of DVDs to the hard drive and Tenacious D made the first cut. This shows the menu of the DVD.
37. Tenacious D is classically trained to rock your ****** socks off.
38. This is the Games menu of XBMC. From here you can launch the Xbox games that you have copied to your hard drive.
39. Tiger Woods PGA Tour 06 starting up.
40. Tiger Woods ready to launch it.
41. This is just a further out shot to show the Head unit buttons.
08-01-2006, 09:17 AM
#66
Intermediate
Thread Starter
That's it!
Since it's the middle of summer right now, there is an issue with the trunk becoming too hot, so I will be careful with using the Xbox on hot days. I am also looking into water-cooling solutions/mods for the Xbox to keep the CPU/system cool. I don't anticipate this being an issue during Fall/Winter/Spring though.
Also, the good thing is now that Dom's Unit and the Blitzsafe are installed, and since we mounted the RCA A/V outlet in the center console, it would be no problem to use a different source (iPod with Video, MP3 Phone, etc.) while the Xbox is not in the car.
I know I've thanked numerous people many times already, but I just wanted to in general thank the people who post on this forum and make it such a treasure trove of knowledge. Everyone was very helpful and I am proud to be part of the community.
THANKS!
Since it's the middle of summer right now, there is an issue with the trunk becoming too hot, so I will be careful with using the Xbox on hot days. I am also looking into water-cooling solutions/mods for the Xbox to keep the CPU/system cool. I don't anticipate this being an issue during Fall/Winter/Spring though.
Also, the good thing is now that Dom's Unit and the Blitzsafe are installed, and since we mounted the RCA A/V outlet in the center console, it would be no problem to use a different source (iPod with Video, MP3 Phone, etc.) while the Xbox is not in the car.
I know I've thanked numerous people many times already, but I just wanted to in general thank the people who post on this forum and make it such a treasure trove of knowledge. Everyone was very helpful and I am proud to be part of the community.
THANKS!
08-01-2006, 10:04 AM
#68
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Here are a couple of videos of the Xbox in action:
http://www.routex.net/public/MVI_1863.AVI
http://www.routex.net/public/MVI_1864.AVI
I apologize for the quality of the video, and my crappy camerawork... it's just a digital camera's "quicktime" video capabilities, and it was dark in the car so I was kind of fumbling with the remote and the camera at the same time.
http://www.routex.net/public/MVI_1863.AVI
http://www.routex.net/public/MVI_1864.AVI
I apologize for the quality of the video, and my crappy camerawork... it's just a digital camera's "quicktime" video capabilities, and it was dark in the car so I was kind of fumbling with the remote and the camera at the same time.
08-01-2006, 11:30 AM
#69
Intermediate
Nicely done Zero. I guess I could have used a remote control, but I don't even turn it on when its just me in the car, and I don't play or watch while I drive anyway. I do like getting to places early though so that I can play some games while waiting. :-)
08-01-2006, 01:42 PM
#70
Safety Car
Very nice ZeroWiz!
I would consider adding some padding around the Blitzafe so that you wont get rattles later on. Other than that, everything else looks clean.
Congrats on the new toys in the car!
I would consider adding some padding around the Blitzafe so that you wont get rattles later on. Other than that, everything else looks clean.
Congrats on the new toys in the car!
08-02-2006, 10:33 PM
#72
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! Regarding the blitzsafe, when I say "snug" I mean it. That thing isn't going to rattle around in there... it's almost like a perfect fit.
02-15-2007, 10:33 PM
#74
quick question, im in the midle of this project right now, and with the cordless controller, did you have to extend the ir reciever for the controller? or does it reach the trunk well as it is
02-16-2007, 06:55 AM
#75
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by kataklyzm
quick question, im in the midle of this project right now, and with the cordless controller, did you have to extend the ir reciever for the controller? or does it reach the trunk well as it is
The Remote Control is what I needed to run the IR extender for. If you notice again in the pictures of the Xbox in the trunk, the IR receiver is plugged into controller port 4, and a little IR blaster/emitter is stickied on it.
By the way, it has been 6 months since I did this project, and it still works great. I modified the Xbox to add an IR receiver for turning it on via remote control. The stock IR receiver dongle that comes with the DVD kit doesn't let you turn on the Xbox with the remote control. Here is the link if you want to do this as well: http://xir.us/default.aspx. I also have changed my default dashboard to be XBMC, so that it shaves a few seconds and saves a couple of button presses if I had kept Evox.
Since the Fall and now in Winter, I never worry about the heat in the trunk. Of course I will have have to deal with that again in the Summer...
Hope this helps.
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