2-way active time alignment settings- care to share
06-21-2012, 09:21 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
2-way active time alignment settings- care to share
greetings,
A few months ago I moved from the ms8 to zapco dc amps.
It was a good move, but, I've been constantly playing around with the TA, looking for the right staging. If I get vocals centered, the kick drum is to the right, or vice versa.
It seems like the TA would depend on eq, but, would anyone care to share their settings if their staging is on point? 2- way only
A few months ago I moved from the ms8 to zapco dc amps.
It was a good move, but, I've been constantly playing around with the TA, looking for the right staging. If I get vocals centered, the kick drum is to the right, or vice versa.
It seems like the TA would depend on eq, but, would anyone care to share their settings if their staging is on point? 2- way only
06-21-2012, 09:51 AM
#2
Is your TA in inches? msec?
You might want to play with your phase/polarity if you can as the kick drum is down there where phase is important (50-250). Do you have EQ or just TA? I would say you could also cut/level match to remove that overpowering on one side.
You might want to play with your phase/polarity if you can as the kick drum is down there where phase is important (50-250). Do you have EQ or just TA? I would say you could also cut/level match to remove that overpowering on one side.
06-21-2012, 01:37 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Its zapco processing,
It uses ms, but also has MM and in settings.
I do have eq., and have worked with someone to adjust the eq with an RTA, but did time allignment at the time with the center channel in use.
Im currently trying to set up the two way without the center.
If time alignment considers distance from the listener to the speaker, then why is the greatest delay applied to the speaker furthest away? Logically, it would seem like the closest speaker would get the most delay??
When I set it by ear, the furthest speaker gets the least delay....
The settings I have now are:
Left tweet - 3 (MS)
Left Mid - 2.9
Right Tweet - 1
Right Mid - 2.6
They are set by ear, but the distances in inches in no way correspond to how far away they are from my ear.
It uses ms, but also has MM and in settings.
I do have eq., and have worked with someone to adjust the eq with an RTA, but did time allignment at the time with the center channel in use.
Im currently trying to set up the two way without the center.
If time alignment considers distance from the listener to the speaker, then why is the greatest delay applied to the speaker furthest away? Logically, it would seem like the closest speaker would get the most delay??
When I set it by ear, the furthest speaker gets the least delay....
The settings I have now are:
Left tweet - 3 (MS)
Left Mid - 2.9
Right Tweet - 1
Right Mid - 2.6
They are set by ear, but the distances in inches in no way correspond to how far away they are from my ear.
06-21-2012, 01:55 PM
#4
If time alignment considers distance from the listener to the speaker, then why is the greatest delay applied to the speaker furthest away? Logically, it would seem like the closest speaker would get the most delay??
When I set it by ear, the furthest speaker gets the least delay....
Not sure where you heard that first part. You're doing in correct in that the closest speaker to you gets the highest/most amount of delay.
Here's some good starting material:
-- http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...your-ears.html
-- http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...alignment.html
-- http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...sy-cmusic.html
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 06-21-2012 at 02:01 PM.
06-21-2012, 02:07 PM
#5
Team Owner
I can't help you but I am curious to know how you like the manual tuning vs MS8 once you get it all sorted out.
06-21-2012, 02:16 PM
#6
I will say the MS-8 is a helluva lot nicer looking than the 3sixty.2. I absolutely HATED how the power/ground/remote was a plug. HATED it. Unless you really secure the 3sixty.2, the plug can come loose and pop your speakers over and over. Almost gave me a heart attack one time lol
06-21-2012, 03:49 PM
#7
Here's a dirty quick thumbnail of how I'd approach it:
Get the mid correct first. 300 ish to 2500 ish will be critical to first get path length equal. You can use delay from there. Obviously, if you are stock location you are limited to what is in the car. Mid will really determine the center image of the stage.
Since you are using a 2 way set up use the mid as the reference for distance.
To get the midbass correct, start with playing with polarity between the sub and the midbass. Flip the subs out of polarity from the front and see which sounds better. Try to get the bass drum and bass guitar sounding like it is in the front of the car. Do this by raising the x-over point on both the midbass and the sub. I usually start at 80Hz and end up moving from there. Once you get everything up front you can use the lower octave sub eq (20-40Hz) to blend it. actually lowering some levels in the low end will help out to smooth cabin gain and make the subs disappear to the front. You can also use overall sub level at this point to blend. You should be able to get pretty tight accurate up front bass by doing this. Midbass will primarily determine the depth of the stage.
Beyond that, you can try and put one side mid out of polarity from the other and see if that helps center up the midbass. Only do this though if it does not adversely affect the midrange.
Tweeters are almost exclusively intensity dominated. Channel level will be far more critical here than delay. Try lowering the level of the left tweeter until the image is correct. Again, if using factory locations you will be a bit limited. from there, use EQ to smooth out response. Tweeters will mainly determine the height of the stage.
Hope this helps a little.
Like I said, this is the quick dirty method. People have written volumes on this kind of stuff.
Get the mid correct first. 300 ish to 2500 ish will be critical to first get path length equal. You can use delay from there. Obviously, if you are stock location you are limited to what is in the car. Mid will really determine the center image of the stage.
Since you are using a 2 way set up use the mid as the reference for distance.
To get the midbass correct, start with playing with polarity between the sub and the midbass. Flip the subs out of polarity from the front and see which sounds better. Try to get the bass drum and bass guitar sounding like it is in the front of the car. Do this by raising the x-over point on both the midbass and the sub. I usually start at 80Hz and end up moving from there. Once you get everything up front you can use the lower octave sub eq (20-40Hz) to blend it. actually lowering some levels in the low end will help out to smooth cabin gain and make the subs disappear to the front. You can also use overall sub level at this point to blend. You should be able to get pretty tight accurate up front bass by doing this. Midbass will primarily determine the depth of the stage.
Beyond that, you can try and put one side mid out of polarity from the other and see if that helps center up the midbass. Only do this though if it does not adversely affect the midrange.
Tweeters are almost exclusively intensity dominated. Channel level will be far more critical here than delay. Try lowering the level of the left tweeter until the image is correct. Again, if using factory locations you will be a bit limited. from there, use EQ to smooth out response. Tweeters will mainly determine the height of the stage.
Hope this helps a little.
Like I said, this is the quick dirty method. People have written volumes on this kind of stuff.
Last edited by DiamondJoeQuimby; 06-21-2012 at 03:54 PM.
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06-21-2012, 04:51 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
With that said, with help, I think I like the manually tuned approach better because I feel like I have more options and i do like learning.
The ms8 was so frustrating for me because I could never get the sub/mid bass to sound correct. It just did not work for me.
I did a MECA comp the other week, and while my image sucked, the judge commented on how well the mid/sub blended.... I should not say the image sucked, I had good depth and width, but it was just shifted to the right.
06-21-2012, 05:02 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here's a dirty quick thumbnail of how I'd approach it:
Get the mid correct first. 300 ish to 2500 ish will be critical to first get path length equal. You can use delay from there. Obviously, if you are stock location you are limited to what is in the car. Mid will really determine the center image of the stage.
Since you are using a 2 way set up use the mid as the reference for distance.
To get the midbass correct, start with playing with polarity between the sub and the midbass. Flip the subs out of polarity from the front and see which sounds better. Try to get the bass drum and bass guitar sounding like it is in the front of the car. Do this by raising the x-over point on both the midbass and the sub. I usually start at 80Hz and end up moving from there. Once you get everything up front you can use the lower octave sub eq (20-40Hz) to blend it. actually lowering some levels in the low end will help out to smooth cabin gain and make the subs disappear to the front. You can also use overall sub level at this point to blend. You should be able to get pretty tight accurate up front bass by doing this. Midbass will primarily determine the depth of the stage.
Beyond that, you can try and put one side mid out of polarity from the other and see if that helps center up the midbass. Only do this though if it does not adversely affect the midrange.
Tweeters are almost exclusively intensity dominated. Channel level will be far more critical here than delay. Try lowering the level of the left tweeter until the image is correct. Again, if using factory locations you will be a bit limited. from there, use EQ to smooth out response. Tweeters will mainly determine the height of the stage.
Hope this helps a little.
Like I said, this is the quick dirty method. People have written volumes on this kind of stuff.
Get the mid correct first. 300 ish to 2500 ish will be critical to first get path length equal. You can use delay from there. Obviously, if you are stock location you are limited to what is in the car. Mid will really determine the center image of the stage.
Since you are using a 2 way set up use the mid as the reference for distance.
To get the midbass correct, start with playing with polarity between the sub and the midbass. Flip the subs out of polarity from the front and see which sounds better. Try to get the bass drum and bass guitar sounding like it is in the front of the car. Do this by raising the x-over point on both the midbass and the sub. I usually start at 80Hz and end up moving from there. Once you get everything up front you can use the lower octave sub eq (20-40Hz) to blend it. actually lowering some levels in the low end will help out to smooth cabin gain and make the subs disappear to the front. You can also use overall sub level at this point to blend. You should be able to get pretty tight accurate up front bass by doing this. Midbass will primarily determine the depth of the stage.
Beyond that, you can try and put one side mid out of polarity from the other and see if that helps center up the midbass. Only do this though if it does not adversely affect the midrange.
Tweeters are almost exclusively intensity dominated. Channel level will be far more critical here than delay. Try lowering the level of the left tweeter until the image is correct. Again, if using factory locations you will be a bit limited. from there, use EQ to smooth out response. Tweeters will mainly determine the height of the stage.
Hope this helps a little.
Like I said, this is the quick dirty method. People have written volumes on this kind of stuff.
I feel like my main issue is getting my tweeters correct, specifically my right tweeter. If you could visualize the meat of a vocal coming from where the center speaker grill is (center is off), but it seems like a portion of the vocal drifts toward the Right tweeter.
Specifically, my other issue is getting my kick drum centered over the vocal, its always to the right...
Another question - does your image change with head position? Ive always thought a quality tuned system should be centered regardless, although its hard for me to wrap my head around how.
In my situation, if I move my head left (look at the left mid or tweeter) the image feels like its still coming from the center of the dash, however if I look at the right tweeter or right mid, the image shifts over the tweeter dramatically.
06-21-2012, 06:02 PM
#10
This helps, luckily, my bass is already up front, its actually impressive.
I feel like my main issue is getting my tweeters correct, specifically my right tweeter. If you could visualize the meat of a vocal coming from where the center speaker grill is (center is off), but it seems like a portion of the vocal drifts toward the Right tweeter.
Specifically, my other issue is getting my kick drum centered over the vocal, its always to the right...
Another question - does your image change with head position? Ive always thought a quality tuned system should be centered regardless, although its hard for me to wrap my head around how.
In my situation, if I move my head left (look at the left mid or tweeter) the image feels like its still coming from the center of the dash, however if I look at the right tweeter or right mid, the image shifts over the tweeter dramatically.
I feel like my main issue is getting my tweeters correct, specifically my right tweeter. If you could visualize the meat of a vocal coming from where the center speaker grill is (center is off), but it seems like a portion of the vocal drifts toward the Right tweeter.
Specifically, my other issue is getting my kick drum centered over the vocal, its always to the right...
Another question - does your image change with head position? Ive always thought a quality tuned system should be centered regardless, although its hard for me to wrap my head around how.
In my situation, if I move my head left (look at the left mid or tweeter) the image feels like its still coming from the center of the dash, however if I look at the right tweeter or right mid, the image shifts over the tweeter dramatically.
Image will most definitely shift as you move your head. As you move, distances change to speakers as well as orientation to all of the reflective surfaces.
For the kick drum/ centering issue try putting one of the mids out of polarity. I have done this with great success in many cars. Especially ones where the tweeter is a good distance (>24") away from the mid. You'd be surprised what that can do.
One issue I ran into (midbass in door, mid, tweet in kick) is I caught a pretty good reflection off of the console that never really let my image totally center. It seemed that it was kind of a wide amorphous center point if that makes sense.
I have a well defined left and right and it is quite spacious and high (most people think my tweets are in the stock dash location by just listening) but that reflection never really let it totally center. It is good enough though, especially considering I have no intention of installing a bench seat.
06-22-2012, 09:11 AM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hey DJQ -
Great suggestion. I got on my laptop this am to play around, switched the phase of my right mid to 180 and boom, my kick drum and bass guitar jumped from my glove box, over my vocals, and landed between the center speaker and my steering wheel.
I messed around with the TA and got the vocals and kick drum virtually in line. I always rely on Rage's 1st album, track 3 to see where my allignment is, "take the power back" I believe, and Zach's voice is literally in front of the kick drum impact....nice
Good help, its appreciated. thanks
Great suggestion. I got on my laptop this am to play around, switched the phase of my right mid to 180 and boom, my kick drum and bass guitar jumped from my glove box, over my vocals, and landed between the center speaker and my steering wheel.
I messed around with the TA and got the vocals and kick drum virtually in line. I always rely on Rage's 1st album, track 3 to see where my allignment is, "take the power back" I believe, and Zach's voice is literally in front of the kick drum impact....nice
Good help, its appreciated. thanks
06-22-2012, 09:45 AM
#14
Hey DJQ -
Great suggestion. I got on my laptop this am to play around, switched the phase of my right mid to 180 and boom, my kick drum and bass guitar jumped from my glove box, over my vocals, and landed between the center speaker and my steering wheel.
I messed around with the TA and got the vocals and kick drum virtually in line. I always rely on Rage's 1st album, track 3 to see where my allignment is, "take the power back" I believe, and Zach's voice is literally in front of the kick drum impact....nice
Good help, its appreciated. thanks
Great suggestion. I got on my laptop this am to play around, switched the phase of my right mid to 180 and boom, my kick drum and bass guitar jumped from my glove box, over my vocals, and landed between the center speaker and my steering wheel.
I messed around with the TA and got the vocals and kick drum virtually in line. I always rely on Rage's 1st album, track 3 to see where my allignment is, "take the power back" I believe, and Zach's voice is literally in front of the kick drum impact....nice
Good help, its appreciated. thanks
That whole album is a great reference one. The impact and accuracy in the mid bass from drums and bass guitar is fantastic.
06-22-2012, 12:14 PM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
TM-
Sorry to say, no. With the ms8, you get whatever tune the device gives you a's far as image goes. You really can't tinker with it at all, all you can do is manipulate your speaker placement (who has time for that?) or manipulate your level settings before auto tune or manipulate your head position during auto tune. Now, with that said, I got it pretty spot on by manipulating my head position.
I'd say it probably sounds more natural with my current set up without the center. With the ms8 and center, it was almost too separated between left, center, right.
What bothered me most about the ms8 was the eq. After auto tune, you had one eq for everything, instead of seperate for tweet, mid and sub.
So, there was not the ability for separate left or right eq, or separate eq for sub and mid, which is what I really needed to blend my mids properly.
While I'm ranting, the other thing I did not like about the ms8 is that I had no idea how much the device cut on autotune, the manual eq appeared flat before manual adjustments.
Sorry to say, no. With the ms8, you get whatever tune the device gives you a's far as image goes. You really can't tinker with it at all, all you can do is manipulate your speaker placement (who has time for that?) or manipulate your level settings before auto tune or manipulate your head position during auto tune. Now, with that said, I got it pretty spot on by manipulating my head position.
I'd say it probably sounds more natural with my current set up without the center. With the ms8 and center, it was almost too separated between left, center, right.
What bothered me most about the ms8 was the eq. After auto tune, you had one eq for everything, instead of seperate for tweet, mid and sub.
So, there was not the ability for separate left or right eq, or separate eq for sub and mid, which is what I really needed to blend my mids properly.
While I'm ranting, the other thing I did not like about the ms8 is that I had no idea how much the device cut on autotune, the manual eq appeared flat before manual adjustments.
06-22-2012, 12:27 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tm- I do think the ms8 was decent if you do not like to tinker. My real issue is that I live 5 min away from two meca champions that influence me wayy too much. If I did not have them to help, ms8 would be the way to go all day, every day.
06-22-2012, 12:33 PM
#17
Interesting. I'll see if I can find my settings I used for the 3sixty.2 TA. I had a solid center image, but it sometime wandered a little. Just a little. We'll see how good the MS-8 is at doing this.
About the MS-8 EQ, that seems to be one of the big let downs from people with them. I know it has 31-band after the tune, but individual "Left & Right" would be nice.
What do you mean about the ms8 cutting?
Edit: Yeah, I'm the opposite...I don't have too many people at all near me with that kind of experience. I've found a few good, knowledable guys locally so maybe they'll know a ton about it and be able to help me out. The MS-8 purchase was mainly a stepping stone. Without a doubt I'll move up to the Bit.1, PS8, Masconi unit or something like that in the future.
About the MS-8 EQ, that seems to be one of the big let downs from people with them. I know it has 31-band after the tune, but individual "Left & Right" would be nice.
What do you mean about the ms8 cutting?
Edit: Yeah, I'm the opposite...I don't have too many people at all near me with that kind of experience. I've found a few good, knowledable guys locally so maybe they'll know a ton about it and be able to help me out. The MS-8 purchase was mainly a stepping stone. Without a doubt I'll move up to the Bit.1, PS8, Masconi unit or something like that in the future.
06-22-2012, 02:13 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tm-
What I meant by cutting is the ms8 algorithm does not really allow it to boost past 200 or something when doing auto tune, so all it does is cut, which makes level matching so important. Say your center is a lot lower than you mid before you auto tune, the ms8 will cut your mid to match your center, which could kill your mid bass
What I meant by cutting is the ms8 algorithm does not really allow it to boost past 200 or something when doing auto tune, so all it does is cut, which makes level matching so important. Say your center is a lot lower than you mid before you auto tune, the ms8 will cut your mid to match your center, which could kill your mid bass
06-22-2012, 04:30 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yup, at least that's what I did.
I forgot to mention, I was running my center off the ms8 internal amp. So, I think my issue came from running a hat l4 and clarus tweeter with a passive off the 20 watts of the ms8 amp, and then running my 6.5 mid off 150 zapco watts and having to level match it.
I forgot to mention, I was running my center off the ms8 internal amp. So, I think my issue came from running a hat l4 and clarus tweeter with a passive off the 20 watts of the ms8 amp, and then running my 6.5 mid off 150 zapco watts and having to level match it.
06-23-2012, 09:12 PM
#21
Racer
Left tweeter - 1.7ms
Right tweeter - 2.9ms
Left midbass - 1.0ms
Right midbass - 2.9ms
The subwoofer may not be the same for you depending on how you have the phase adjustment set
Subwoofer - 1.8ms
Eq is going to be different depending on your drivers but if you want I can e-mail you my files. Which DC amps are you using?
Right tweeter - 2.9ms
Left midbass - 1.0ms
Right midbass - 2.9ms
The subwoofer may not be the same for you depending on how you have the phase adjustment set
Subwoofer - 1.8ms
Eq is going to be different depending on your drivers but if you want I can e-mail you my files. Which DC amps are you using?
06-24-2012, 07:36 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm using dc1000.4 for fronts.
I'm not sure how this is possible, but I've worked out a good two way image and my settings are virtually the same a's yours, but flipped!
Ex- my right tweeter is 1.7.
Do you have your center running with this or are you just right and left?
I'm not sure how this is possible, but I've worked out a good two way image and my settings are virtually the same a's yours, but flipped!
Ex- my right tweeter is 1.7.
Do you have your center running with this or are you just right and left?
06-24-2012, 11:30 AM
#23
Racer
Left tweeter - 1.7ms should be the Right
Right tweeter - 2.9ms should be the Left
Left midbass - 1.0ms should be the Right
Right midbass - 2.9ms should be the Left
The subwoofer may not be the same for you depending on how you have the phase adjustment set
Subwoofer - 1.8ms
Eq is going to be different depending on your drivers but if you want I can e-mail you my files. Which DC amps are you using?
Right tweeter - 2.9ms should be the Left
Left midbass - 1.0ms should be the Right
Right midbass - 2.9ms should be the Left
The subwoofer may not be the same for you depending on how you have the phase adjustment set
Subwoofer - 1.8ms
Eq is going to be different depending on your drivers but if you want I can e-mail you my files. Which DC amps are you using?
I'm using dc1000.4 for fronts.
I'm not sure how this is possible, but I've worked out a good two way image and my settings are virtually the same a's yours, but flipped!
Ex- my right tweeter is 1.7.
Do you have your center running with this or are you just right and left?
I'm not sure how this is possible, but I've worked out a good two way image and my settings are virtually the same a's yours, but flipped!
Ex- my right tweeter is 1.7.
Do you have your center running with this or are you just right and left?
I do use the center but only for multi-channel listening; for stereo I turn it off. I do this mostly because my center speaker is not of the same quality as my other drivers.
Last edited by RBeachTL; 06-24-2012 at 11:34 AM.
06-24-2012, 05:27 PM
#26
Racer
My sub phase is set to 0 but the time delay acts just like a phase shift for the low frequencies. It takes a lot of trial an error for the sub; I never am really satisfied with where I set. I think it also depends on what you are looking for from your sub; I want my sub to blend and support the mids so I'm not looking for the bump. I think if you were looking for my bass emphasis then your settings would be different.
The DC1000.4s are great amps; I use mine for my mids both front and rear and use a DC360.4 for the tweeters and center. When you get to working over the eq more you might want to try out TrueRTA and a measurement mic. It makes getting the eq close much easier. From the flat response you can then tweak to your personal taste.
The DC1000.4s are great amps; I use mine for my mids both front and rear and use a DC360.4 for the tweeters and center. When you get to working over the eq more you might want to try out TrueRTA and a measurement mic. It makes getting the eq close much easier. From the flat response you can then tweak to your personal taste.
06-24-2012, 08:16 PM
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm pretty happy with where the sub is right now, perhaps the only thing I could use is some more power. I'm giving it 500 at 2ohm with the 650.6. I have it boosted plus 15 on 15 Hz, but and then plus 1 at 50 with a 4.5q, blends great, I can look at my back seat and still feels like it's in front of me.
Arent you running a l/r cable for your rears? How do you have that level set?
I've read a lot about it, and I read that you need to find the right level setting to get the in phase information to cancel out -any luck with that?
Arent you running a l/r cable for your rears? How do you have that level set?
I've read a lot about it, and I read that you need to find the right level setting to get the in phase information to cancel out -any luck with that?
06-24-2012, 10:44 PM
#28
Racer
I'm pretty happy with where the sub is right now, perhaps the only thing I could use is some more power. I'm giving it 500 at 2ohm with the 650.6. I have it boosted plus 15 on 15 Hz, but and then plus 1 at 50 with a 4.5q, blends great, I can look at my back seat and still feels like it's in front of me.
Arent you running a l/r cable for your rears? How do you have that level set?
I've read a lot about it, and I read that you need to find the right level setting to get the in phase information to cancel out -any luck with that?
Arent you running a l/r cable for your rears? How do you have that level set?
I've read a lot about it, and I read that you need to find the right level setting to get the in phase information to cancel out -any luck with that?
I'm running the six output channels from the head unit so I don't use a L/R cable; I think this is also one of my issues with the sub. Because I'm taking the output of the stock HU, I'm having to deal with the HU's own processing and I haven't figured out how to consistently get this to work with my Eq.
I'm not sure what you are refering to with the canceling? I do know that if you want to create cancelation you do need to match levels but I'm not sure why you would want to do this? I'm more familar with trying to not cancel out the sound front.
06-25-2012, 07:58 AM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, from what I understand, the premise behind the l/r cable is to get only out of phase information out of the rear speakers so it can enhance the front image (like creating ambiance) but not take away from it, it's a little different than standard rear fill.
For those using ms8, the ms8 only gives out of phase info out of the rears, if you ever just listen to the rears of the ms8, it's only playing the left only information and the right only information.
So anyway, by using the l/r symbilink cable, you are supposed to be able to cancel out all in phase information if you have the levels set properly. So in short, I have not figured out the correct settings yet. So, I'm just keeping the rear fill settings low, at like -10 output, so they don't pull back.
Just another tidbit of car audio that is still slightly over my head!
For those using ms8, the ms8 only gives out of phase info out of the rears, if you ever just listen to the rears of the ms8, it's only playing the left only information and the right only information.
So anyway, by using the l/r symbilink cable, you are supposed to be able to cancel out all in phase information if you have the levels set properly. So in short, I have not figured out the correct settings yet. So, I'm just keeping the rear fill settings low, at like -10 output, so they don't pull back.
Just another tidbit of car audio that is still slightly over my head!
06-25-2012, 01:26 PM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah. Nit sure what I'm doing with the whole rear or center thing yet. I'm tempted to rip out the 650 and put a 750.2 in for sub only and just not power my center or rears.
For the rear fill, I get a good sensation of "fill" from my sub currently (if that makes sense) and I don't know if having the rears on Is really accomplishing anything.
But, thanks for sharing your settings! And for basically giving me the color by number for wiring up the symbilink!
For the rear fill, I get a good sensation of "fill" from my sub currently (if that makes sense) and I don't know if having the rears on Is really accomplishing anything.
But, thanks for sharing your settings! And for basically giving me the color by number for wiring up the symbilink!
06-29-2012, 05:41 PM
#32
Racer
Right MB is the reference point being the furthest away. so the difference between any other driver is measured against the furthest.
right mb 0.0ms
left mb 1.6ms
my tweeter and mid is on the pillar so here are the settings
right mr 0.5ms
left mr 1.6ms
right tweeter 0.5ms
left tweeter 1.5ms
right mb 0.0ms
left mb 1.6ms
my tweeter and mid is on the pillar so here are the settings
right mr 0.5ms
left mr 1.6ms
right tweeter 0.5ms
left tweeter 1.5ms
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