1. I'll get right down to it. Installed the new SAX-100.4 today and that is GREAT btw. But I was out tuning just now and I shut the car down and I got a flicker in the display (above the center AC vents) about 4-5 times in 5 seconds. The whole thing was about 3-5 seconds long. I turned the car off and I had this flicker, along with a subtle clicking sound down in the kick panel area (drivers side). It went away and everything was fine...but this "problem" isn't likely ok lol. Can anyone help me on this one??



2. I'm still getting a hiss from the tweeters. I've heard it change pitch like alt. whine, but it's happened when I'm not moving. Well tonight while tuning, the tweeters hissed somewhat subtle-like but still audible w/o any music on. I went to the EQ on the tweeters and lowered EVERY band from 20hz-20Khz down 10db...no change. I muted the Tweeters...no change. Is it okay to unplug the RCA's while the car is on and the tweeters are hissing to see if one/they stop doing it when unplugged from amp?? I don't hear it from the mids by the way.



Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Thanks

Clip of Incident:

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/534/vgz.mp4/

 

...Anyone there??

I hear the clicking on the drivers side kick panel when the cluster is flashing. That's where my remote wire goes into fuse #32...would that have any correlation?

 

The quickest test is to pull the remote wire you installed and see if it goes away.

 

Thank you KN_TL. So I'll try pull the remote wire from the fuse box and see if it goes away. It didn't do this with the other amp(s) and nothing has changed as far as the remote wire. I did change the remote out jumper settings inside the 360.2 b/c RF said that it needs to be on the "OUT" position and it can turn on the amps I assume. I'd like the 360 to turn on first, then the amps...so I assume that changing the jumper to out would do this per what they said.

Here's a pic of the fuse box. I put my ear down there and turned the car off and I think this is where the clicking noise is coming from. Also, when I have my key position in ACC (or just not fully on)...and then I turn the car on, I get some static in the tweeters & possibly mids. Some sort of feedback



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another thing. Is it normal to be able to move the power seats with the key out of the ignition & door open?

 

The other thing I have done is use the empty fuse spots for my add on components. I don't recall which ones are switched vs constant but if you have an ETM, it's simple to find.

It is possible that you're screwing up a relay circuit somewhere.

 

Hm. Well just got off the phone with RF and they said that I don't need a remote wire going into the 3sixty.2. It will signal sense by the low-level signal and turn itself on. Then I can have remote wires coming out of the REM slot into both amps. I wonder if my problem is b/c of this weird way of wiring I have. About to go try this

 

Sounds like the amp is back feeding one of your relays. I agree with pulling the remote wire.... Especially now that you don't need it.

Taking this to the extreme, as a kid I wired my electric fan straight into the ignition fuse in the fuse box. When I shut the ignition off, the engine would shut off but most lights and other systems would slowly power off and dim as the fan slowed down. Not very smart on my part.

Almost forgot, tweeter hiss.... Are you sure you have no signal wires run next to power wires especially before the 360? I had to run mine with power and signal crossed for a few days and when the amp was on even with the gains down and radio off there was a hiss. It went away when I changed the wiring.

 

Power is down one side and everything else is down the other. In the trunk, the closest they every come is when they are going into the amp.

They are touching/very close in drivers side kick panel, where the power comes through the firewall and down the drivers side. Well I had to run the tweeter/mid wires behind the middle console/nav/etc to get them to the drivers side. They cross the power wire so...that could be it. I don't know how I would isolate them though. I mean that's gotta be like that in your car too correct? Or anyone that is running active. Where are your wires for mid/tweet compared to the power wire near the pedals?? Think that's it?

 

Well I unhooked the remote wire into Fuse #32 and problem solved. Doesn't do it anymore.

Bad thing is I'm going to have to wire up some RCA's b/c I'm using high-level (speaker wire) inputs right now. I was told in the beginning to do that but I guess to get that signal sensing turn on and to remove that relay crap, I'll have to wire RCA's onto the preexisting speaker wire I'm using. I'm only using the FL and FR though. Is that okay to use just those 2 again when using RCA (low-level) inputs? They're the flattest and I believe the 3sixty.2 can take that signal and duplicate it for all my channels...basically allowing me that full range signal on every speaker. Correct?

So I need to get some RCA's and cut the ends off (2 sets) right? Are there good/quality RCA's that already have the male RCA's on one end and pos/neg speaker wire on the other?? That'd be lovely lol


Is this how everyone else has their 3sixty.2 wired up??

 

TTT for morning crowd

 

You said the 3sixty needs low level inputs to automatically turn on. If you are taking the signal out of the stock amp, then you need LOC's.

If you use one of the empty fuse locations as I suggested in my PM then you'll eliminate one problem.

If it is the input lines that are causing the hiss by picking up stray noise, then you can use shielded cable to try and isolate it.

 

That's what's bugging me though. I didn't do anything besides change the amp and now this happened. Kinda weird & don't understand how that can come about just from changing the amp.

I'm taking the signal before the amp. So its a very low voltage signal straight from the speaker wires and into the 3sixty.2. If I need low-level I'll just wire up some RCA's onto the speaker wire..no point in using an LOC. I'll try the fuse thing here in a bit..hopefully it warms up some here

 

Do you have the old amp? Sounds like maybe something might be up with the new one. Put the old one back in if you have it and see if it goes away.

 

So I'm confused. You previously had the low level pre-amp signal running to the high level inputs of the 360? From what I understood, the level sensing auto on of the 360 only worked on high level inputs. Plus it was something you had to turn on via an internal jumper.

Which problem is solved, the clicking or the hiss btw? I'm assuming the clicking, but you didnt specify.

My 360 is HU>Low level outputs>360 low level inputs>AMP>Xover>speakers

If you buy a rca to wire in, get a twisted pair. The coaxial ones are a PITA to pull apart and solder.

 

Isn't the pre-amp/post amp signal both high-level? Right now I've taken the FL/FR wires pre-amp and wired into them and ran them into the trunk. I've then taken those wires (FL/FR pre-amp that's been extended into the trunk) into the 3sixty.2. So They aren't into the RCA (low-level) inputs of the 3sixty.2...they're in the speaker (high-level) input plug into the 3sixty.2. Remote jumper inside the unit is on OUT


When I took out the MB amp, I unhooked all the wires/RCA's, etc into the amp and hooked everything back up to the Sundown. But I got this damn clicking by the fuse box and my screen above the vents (not the nav..but the other one above) flickered a few times while that clicking was going on. So...I took out the remote wire that went into Fuse #32, turned the car on and turned it back off..no clicking/flickering. So it's remote related somehow. Even though I didn't change anything from the switching of amps.


When I contacted RF, Tech Support told me that the signal turn on sensing works on the low-level inputs on the 3sixty.2, which would be the RCA inputs (NOT the speaker plug input..which is what I'm using). So I'm assuming my best bet is to take the FL/FR pos/neg wires and wire them into an RCA cable and take that into the low-level/RCA input on the 3sixty.2. Then it'll turn on my 3sixty.2...and then my amps.

..

I need something like this...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html



I just don't understand why it was fine before and I switched amps and now it went haywire

 

Just called RF again and the guy sounded a bit more knowledgeable. He stated I should use the post amp signal and use the high-level input like I'm using for the signal sensing turn on.

These are already crossed by our factory amp though. Will I still be able to take FL/FR into the high-level speaker plug like I have now, instead now using post-amp, and still get a full range signal??

 

If the only thing you changed is the amp, then the new amp's remote is obviously causing the problem with the devices also attached to fuse 32.

Your description of the setup is really confusing but in any case, if the 3sixty was already installed without the relay click or hiss and all you did was change that one amp, then you are chasing down the wrong thing.

Dude, you keep contradicting yourself. Which is it, low level or high level kicks the remote line on the 3sixty? Don't you have a manual?

This comes directly from their site:

A DC voltmeter is required to verify usability.

The 3Sixty units, both 3SIXTY.1 and 3SIXTY.2, have the ability to supply a remote output. This is useful in vehicles that have a source unit (radio) that does not supply a remote output for amplifier, or other accessory, turn-on. The 3Sixty works with a feature called DC Voltage offset. This turns on the 3Sixty unit when the proper voltage is detected at the high level inputs.

Enabling you to use the REMOTE connection on the 3Sixty as an remote turn-on output instead of the remote turn-on for the 3Sixty. This feature will only be used if the vehicle source unit (radio) is connected to the 3Sixty using the high-level inputs (See the 3SIXTY Installation and Operation manual for proper connection). It is not necessary to use this feature with an aftermarket source unit since they have a remote output.

 

That's what I'm saying...I'm not contradicting myself, RF is. I've said the same thing the whole time.

3sixty.2
Low-Level Input = RCA
High-Level Input = Speaker Plug

Acura TL
Pre-amp/Low-level (roughly .2v)
Post-amp/Low-level ( roughly 4-5v)


1st I was using HL; called RF and he said LL should be used; called again and guy said HL should be used but the pre-amp (.2v) might not be enough to run on the amp or something like that. I wonder if I could just take the remote from the factory amp.

I mean this amp is brand new...so I'd hope nothing is wrong with it. It works fine on startup, etc...it's just that damn turn-off click.


Yeah I know. I mean I can go take a picture of it all for you but that isn't working.


Pre-amp FR/FL ---> high-level 3sixty.2 input ---> RCA's out to each amp
.....................................l l
.....................................l l
................................remote out
..................................l...........l
................................PDX.....100.4



...and that doesn't even turn the 360 on with the jumper in either position

 

If you are putting pre-amp out/power-amp in signals into the HL input of the 3sixty I wouldn't be surprised that it's not powering up.

Once again, did you have this all working and just swapped the amp?

If you did, simply go back to that setup and move the remote to a different fuse location.

If you never had this working, you need to step back and look at what you really want to do and decide on either HL or LL outputs to the 3sixty. That will dictate what remote method you use for the amps.

 

Not sure what your talking about when you say Power amp in? Anyways..yes, it's been working fine. It'll work perfect when I put the remote wire back into Fuse #32 spot, but I get the turn-off click. I might just try to wire it into the remote wire by factory amp.

 

Good Luck

 

^ uh. Ok?

 

So I've been using the remote wire that runs to the stock amp TM. It turns on everything just fine. That line runs to the 360, and I have a wire from that port to the remote port on the amp. I've been using low level stuff all along. I'd suggest hooking up the factory pre-amp lines to the low level in on the 360 and rerunning all the setup stuff. Hooking those up to the HL input isn't the right way to do it and I'm surprised you got a usable signal out of it.

No idea what is causing your issues, but try hooking it up correctly and see if anything changes.

 

Ok so taking a step back..wtf am I doing! I'm putting a low-level signal into a high-level input. Dammit lol. I seriously think school is frying my common sense. I get more book smart everyday, but my common sense drops like a rock sometimes lol. I'll wire in some RCA's and re-run the setup. I dunno how I was using a .2v signal into a high-level input that wants 4v+ haha..weird.

Anyways, we'll see how this works. Is the middle wire of the RCA positive or negative?..or does it matter as long as you use the same on both RCA's going in?

 

Center wire should be positive.

 

K, thought so. Thanks

 

How did I miss this before... Thanks for posting it, it's perfect for those like me that hate trying to splice RCAs.

 

Yeah I didn't know they made those either lol. I hate splicing and pulling apart RCA's too. If wiring up RCA's works for me, which it should, I'll be picking that up as its so much cleaner looking.

If you call Sonic and tell them the make an offer thing doesn't work for you, they'll just tell you the lowest price and then do your order over te phone lol. Always finding a way to work the system..haha

 

** Thank you everyone for your help! **

So I put RCA ends on the low level wire into the 360, and wired up the remote back into Fuse #32 and it works fine. Doesn't click when it shuts off. BUT..I have another weird problem now.

I ran the new OEM Integration setup and everything went perfectly fine. When I clicked YES and told it to sum all channels (only using FL/FR pre-amp) and then it told me to turn the volume down and re-connect RCA's..I did, but the right side mid AND tweeter both have a TON of noise for some reason. I have my gains all the way down and I can't put the output level of the right side mid/tweeter any higher than about 35 or I can hear this awful noise/static/whatever. I can up the left side mid/tweeter gain/output(dBr) as high as 0 and it'll be fine and sound normal.

I have no idea wtf is happening. Everything worked fine. Maybe it's because my 3sixty.2 was wiggin out! After I turned the volume back up and realized this, I was like what the hell and grabbed the laptop. I set all the x-overs/slopes and then looked at the EQ...it was doing some VERY weird stuff on its own. On every speaker, when I would click on it, it would give me a weird EQ reading b/c it was boosting/cutting different frequencies on its own. I would push flatten...go to another speaker and it'd do the same thing...go back to the first speaker that I already flattened and it would raise/lower the EQ in random places again.

 

Thanks Geeky...I'll try that.

 

tried the OEM setup without channel summing. Still have a TON of noise on that right side. Once it stops pouring down here i'll go out and swap RCA's and see what happens. Any idea's what's going on??

Ah crap. Just thought about this...I have my fader all the way to the front. Would that somehow mess something up?? My rears are still hooked up so that VERY loud noise while doing the setup comes out of the rears so I faded it so it wasn't so loud before I did the actual OEM setup. I wonder if this would mess something up...

 

Nah, there isn't a mic involved in the setup. As long as your fader was set to be neutral or front biased you're fine.