Well about a year ago i did the front components with focals and told myself i'd never want an Sub. Well the day has come that I changed my mind. I didn't buy a 4-channel amp for my components as i should of so im going to have to buy another amp. Have the hook-up on Fosgate so i'm going to get that PBR-300-1 mono (that REAL small amp). I have a couple 10'' Alpine type R from around 2004-2005. All I have to do is buy a box for the alpine. I already have alot of the wires ran to the back for my component amp so i'm hoping this will just be a couple hour project. Any suggestions?

 

Quick question, since I already have power supply and my wiring to my trunk. Is there a way to just jump on those connections for my 10'' sub im adding? Should I use the stock sub wires? Or re-wire all the way to the head-unit/battery power supply?

 

For the power cable you are using for your amp you can just get a distribution block. If thats what your asking. Like one of these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...on-blocks.html

For the sub, most people I've seen use the stock sub wires yes. And that way you keep your sub controls on your factory head unit. Re-wiring it seems like a lot of extra work for no reason unless you are planning to use something else to control your subs.

 

Okay so the power distribution block is a must if I already have an amp with power ran to trunk?

 

Correct running a power wire between both amps in a circuit will probably cause all kinds of problems use a distribution block there pretty cheap and you can probably just pick one up locally. Most people will just use the stock speaker wire unless you have an aftermarket HU. You will also need an RCA converter as that amp does not have direct speaker level input like mine.

Also I have two 10 inch type R's in my car also except I am running a 900RMS amp. I would use a stronger amp if I were you. I can't remember the exact RMS on those I believe its 600 the newer ones are 1000 but you will get terrible performance out of them with that low of an output and that's only at 2ohm...

 

^^Yeah i'll get a distribution block, the 10 type r im putting in there is like a 2004 model. 300rms which im assuming will be safe with that amp. I wouldn't of used such a small amp with the new type R though.So other than the distribution block I should be safe?

 

Did you run the RCA converter to the sub wires or to the left and right speakers?

 

illadeplh,

It appears that amplifier has the following ratings (PBR300X1 on Rockford Fosgate's website):
75 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm
150 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohm
300 Watts x 1 @ 1-Ohm

It sounds like you only have one subwoofer to install. Is that correct? Does it have Single or Dual voice coils? And what is the impedance of each? Better yet, do you have a model number? This will help determine if you are powering the subwoofer correctly. Over-powering can damage speakers really quickly. Under-powering could damage the amp by virtue of incorrectly setting the amplifier gain. Also consider that if underpowering the sub, the amp is working at max output power most of the time and will get pretty hot. This may cause it to turn off or even get damaged.

Yes, a distribution block is what is used to connect multiple amplifiers to a single power source. I recommend a fused one so that you can control the fuse current rating to each amplifier individually. This will also help you narrow down a problem to a certain amp and the in-line fuse selection is no longer as critical.

There are some considerations that you should make with this installation:
1) Verify that the wire coming from your battery into the distribution block is thick enough to supply power to both amplifiers. If you provide information on your other amplifier, I could make a suggestion.
2) Verify that the in-line fuse on the wire coming from the battery is large enough to support current for both amplifiers. I could tell you if you told me the model number of the other amplifier.
3) You will need a signal source for your subwoofer amplifier. What is your current wiring setup? You may need an RCA converter as gentrysd suggests.

I would love to help you out but need some more info.
Cheers!
-Vlad

 

just as an fyi... if you have bluetooth you HAVE to disconnect the noise cancelling microphone located on the roof of the interior above the rear seat. If you don't the subs will just pump out a consistent bass tone regardless of if there is music playing or not.

 

+1

You will get a low fq noise. Well unless you: a) Open the door or b) drive faster, lol. Either disconnect it or use the factory inputs.

 

If you have ANC you have to disconnect the mic. ANC was only available on the TypeS. Every TL sold in America has Bluetooth.

 

^ whether the BT works or not is a completely different story lol

 

The model is an Alpine SWR-1041D RMS - 300 max (100-300)Dual 4ohm voice coilMy other amp running my Focals is a Rockford Fosgate T-400-2. I know I should of just got the 4 channel looking back. Thanks for the heads up on the noise cancelling mic, Is that an easy disconnect?

 

Considering you have a dual 4 ohm sub, it can be wired to either 2 or 8 ohms.

Get a different amp.

 

If i wired it parallel it would give me 2ohms at 150 watt rms right?

Im not looking for major bass just a little extra low's that my focals arent giving me. Would I be safe with this setup? I'm really not trying to max specs on the amp/sub because I just had this sub laying around anyways so i might as well put it to use.

 

Very true. Mine has been great, maybe because I only used it for the first couple years. In fact, just paired my iPhone 5 to it 10 minutes ago. Hopefully it continues working. Going really off topic I just went to the Verizon store and picked up a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 with 4g LTE for when my factory navi fails. I'm almost looking forward to it, I would consider this a major upgrade and it's only $350.

 

So if i removed that will my bluetooth no longer work at all? So people with a sub are forced to not use their bluetooth?

 

No the bluetooth and ANC are completely separate.

 

Galaxy S3 > Iphone 5

 

Not a chance lol. I've got a pile of dead and broken Droids some just died, some were smashed repeatedly. Over the past 2 years 14 of them. I've never had one work right, all I really wanted out of them was basic calling and text. Anything else was icing on the cake. I never had one that would to the most basic of things right. So yeah, I hate them with a passion. Anything Android.... I hope the tablet is different. So far the iPhone has been flawless, I couldn't be happier. LTE blows away even my home computer in speed and luckily I figured out how to get the discounted iPhones through Verizon without losing the unlimited data. I got two iPhone 5s so far and was going to ebay one of them for a quick profit but the GF was with me when I got it and claimed it.

 

Motorola < Garbage

Any other brand droid has been good from what iv used. & for those of us on T-Mobile = iphoneless.

 

I have two macbooks,ipad,ipods etc. . All mac until it comes to my phone. I'm currently on a S3 and love it. Motorola droids are garbage.

 

Can anyone tell me exactly where this is. I don't want to be unplugging the wrong thing. I don't have to drop the headliner or anything right?

 

Can anyone tell me exactly where this is. I don't want to be unplugging the wrong thing. I don't have to drop the headliner or anything right?[/

 

I had 2 Samsung Galaxy S II's and I loathed them. They were terrible. I sold them both after a year and bought two iPhone 5's the day it was released and have been smiling ever since

 

Does this mean since i don't have a type-s TL that i don't have to unplug anything???

 

Yup. If you got another one of these subs and ran all 4 parallel, the amp would source 300 watts total, 150 to each speaker still under powering.

This amplifier is too weak to reach the RMS rating of that sub of 300W (if it was 2-Ohms DVC, you would just meet the spec). Though it will work, you will definitely not be using the full potential of the sub. I also recommend getting a different amp (or sub?).

A perfect matching subwoofer for the Fosgate PBR300X1 amp that you have would be a Kicker Comp 10" 2Ohm (Model Number: 10C10). http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206C102...02.html?tp=111 (Can probably get it for less than $90 if you shop around).

A perfect matching amplifier for the Alpine SWR-1041D sub that you have would be a Hifonics Brutus BXI 610 (discontinued :-( ) or a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P300....html?tp=35834

 

Yep, nothing to unplug.
There's absolutely no reason you have to match the rms ratings. There's no such thing as underpowering a sub causing damage. At normal volumes I'm only sending 9w to my subs and it's pretty loud. If underpowering hurt them, everytime the volume is less than 40 you would be hurting things.

Do a ported box, 300w to a W6 will be plenty loud, as loud or louder than 500w on a sealed box.

 

Indeed, I never meant to give the impression that under-powering a sub would cause damage. I completely agree that this setup will work. I only meant to identify the real estate in this system that is not being used. The only real reason to match the RMS rating is to get the most bang for your buck out of the equipment you have.

 

Man I must have been drinking or something: that isn't the correct model number of the Comp and it is still not solving your 2-Ohm problem! The correct model number is 10C102, but it's NOT a perfectly matched sub. I apologize for the misinformation! An actual matching sub would be the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...?itemid=120413

 

To answer your question, this is a completely safe setup. You aren't over-powering the sub. You aren't loading the amp with an impedance lower than it's rated for. All you need to do is get a distribution block to power the amp for the sub and a wiring kit to hook it up. 8AWG should be just fine for 150W on one amp and 400W on another.

You will hook up the signal cable from the "Pass-Thru" connectors on the T400-2 to the input connectors on the PBR300X1. That way you don't need to run anything to the head unit. If you already have an 8-AWG wire coming to the trunk, you can place the distribution block there too, and then you won't need to run power wire all the way to the battery. Yeah, this is a quick project if you have all the gear because you don't even need to take any panels off. Good Luck!

 

Thanks man, been waiting for an answer like this for a month lol. . Also thanks I Hate Cars, your input is greatly appreciated since your so familiar with the TL's!

On a positive not, hopefully should be installed this week.

 

Curious to see how this went and how it sounds! Pictures would be cool too!