thejet003

I have read a bunch and searched on the forum about this and i would just like some confirmation that what i think is correct. I recently bought my type s and was thinking of putting a jl 10w7 and a jl 500/1 amp in. i like 5.1 surround sound so im not too interested in changing the stock speakers. I was reading how to remove the rear mic for the noise cancelation on one of the posts. anyways if i unhook the stock sub and use the wires to to hook up the new amp with a LOC and then the new sub, will this work. this is how i have read so far on how to do it. i just want to make sure it will not screw up any other functions or features in the car, cause i use the bluetooth with my phone a lot and i use the voice commands quite frequently. thanks in advance for the info.

07CarbonTL

Good questions. I will be installing my 10W7 and 500/1 next weekend. From what I gather with a LOC and using the stock sub wires you won't be losing any functionality. I am just really hoping the W7 won't drown out the stock highs.

BTW do you plan on adding a remote bass knob?

thejet003

yeah i would like to just still trying to figure that one out..... any pointers?

07CarbonTL

I am not sure. I am still trying to figure it out myself. I want it to be completly hidden but easily accesible. I was thinking in the top tray of the arm rest but I need to figure out a clean way to put it in there.

csmeance

if you tap into the facotry wires for the sub after the AMP, put an LOC on it and hook that up to an Amp, your good to go. Just remember, TYPE S people, disconnect the mics int he rear of the car or put a remote knob to shut off the amp when not in use, the auto-turn on singal ones will not work as the noise cancelation feature sends out a singal to cancel out road noise even with the factory system off.

BY disconecting the mics, you do nothing but disable the actuve noise cancelation system. Otherwise the HFL system and other things should work perfectly.

Just as a tip, if you do not want the factory sub, disconnect the wires form the rear of the car and put an LOC form there as the factory sub is on the top of the trunk. This can help save time.

cocokola

Is it only the rear of the car, or both the front and rear?

GanGsTaBo

So Did you just unplug the rear mics and ur system works? i tired that and i still get the same result, just a rumbling noise out of my subs. any help???

Tripnbeats

I did it with a high low converter. no noise probs here. no disconnect of the mic either.

cocokola

I spoke with JL audio about their 8" speakers; i was concerned about over extention issues since there isn't a sealed container. They offer a infinate baffle version of the 8" for about $200 that is 70 watts RMS.. I'm wondering if this would be a better solution..

Tripnbeats

sounds like a good solution.... for the regular sub....jl makes a great quality sub regardless of size and power. you mean container like box for the sub?? or the rear deck where the stock sub gets mounted? the infinite baffle sub would be mounted outside the box if anything or outside the deck... it has to be reversed because it uses the air inside as a "spring" for the woofer.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

1) ... JL series amps DO NOT need a LOC. They can accept regular high level inputs. Just cut the connector and extend the sub wires to the "high level" input and flip the "input-high" switch

Introducing a LOC where it's not needed is just another place to introduce noise.

2) You must unplug the mic or you'll get feedback.

3) A JL8w3v2 *" drops in, but it ain't no infinate baffle woofer, so it works really hard to get little out of it. 500/1 is way too much for it.
I'm running a JL e1200 at 150 watts rms... More than enough boom boom.

4) I don't think JL offers and IB 8" sub anymore. They discontinued the "8IB4" long ago, but there's a pair on ebay right now.

5) To run a 10", you need a box. There's a guy that sells NICE custom TL-S badged sub boxes in the Black market.

GanGsTaBo

well my system works now and im using a hi lo converter also BUT my voicecommands dont work for my navi anymore and my mics arent even unplugged i dont know what they did to my shit, u have any idea what could be wrong?

Tripnbeats

Whooaa hold on a sec... it stopped working after the sub was installed? ur HFL may need to be updated or reset, or they clipped a wire...the car only has mics up front where the bluetooth module is... by the rear view mirror... theres a few other reasons it may not work.....maybe ur software bugged in the navi and needs to be reset id look that up on the forum or just bring it to acura for an update. that just sounds weird.....do u a bluetooth phone connected to the car? does that work when u try to speak? I had a problem like that when I first bought the car but I dont have navi, I had the bluetooth problem and acura said it was all software based problems.

Tripnbeats

kennedy you have to introduce a loc. the amps are made to accept voltage as an input at the RCA side of the inputs.....I wouldn't connect the wires to the high input theres no filter to clarify sound or balance load..... with the converter theres a series of filters that balance the load and of course convert wattage to voltage.

ajil

I suppose I am in a similar situation. I want to install my jl 10w3v2 and 300/2 amp. (I have an 05 tl) So what I am reading is that I can remove stock sub, run the wires from it into an loc, from there to the amp and sub? Can I avoid running a power wire all the way from the battery to the trunk this way, or is this just for the sound input? Also where can I buy an loc?

jvinhj240

I am using a HIgh INput, they sound awesome and I don't have to use REmote control cuz it already have Sensing . LOc is waste of money and time consuming on installation.

Tripnbeats

nah no way man.....well worth the time n money it speeds processing time and converts wattage to voltage a lot quicker than the amp can.

Converted

A converter is like what... $25-30? Just get one...

jvinhj240

ITs not about $2-$3 . Why you have to converted when your amp do the job for you? Now if It sounds better than ok I agree with you.

Tripnbeats

yea it does sound better and the amp isn't really made to process....or actually re-process sound, its made to amplify sound thats inputted.... thats it, Im sure the reason they add the high inputs is for lazines or for money reasons but you'll never recreate sound at a quality level through those inputs. and the whole thing with the sense on is no good either what if theres no sound for a sec the amp goes on off on off and thats no good either

cocokola

1) the infinate baffle sub I thought was a drop-in replacement for the factory sub - meaning you don't invert it.. Anyone know what wattage the head unit puts into the current sub?

2) the speaker-level to line-level is not preferred to line-level input, but if you have to use it, then use it.. It doesn't matter much if you use a built-in or outboard device.

I'm beginning to wonder how well even the best 8" sub IB would sound vs. giving up some trunk space for a box. I had a 12" in my Acura CL that thumped, but I gave up most of my trunk. Did someone say there was an outfit that designs a sub box specifically for the Tl series cars? I didn;t see a link to who it was..

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I see your problem. You used a LOC to step down your source voltage to "low level", plugged it into the amp with it selected to "high level". The amp is expecting a much stronger in "high or line level" signal when in high... all you had to do was flip the switch to low.

But your installers are knuckleheads. I'll say this for the 100th time. YOU DON'T NEED A LINE OUT CONNECTOR IF YOU'RE USING AN AMP MADE IN THE PASSED 10 YEARS ... at least to add a simple sub woofer

No you don't. Please read you amp manual one more time.

Page 5, in the "INPUT SELECTION" Paragraph:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13117.pdf

" to use speaker level sources, splice the output speaker wires of the source unit onto a pair of RCA plugs".

You guys are confusing your language. Line level input = high level input = speaker level input.

Low level input is lower voltage usually connected with RCA's with aftermarket HU's.

LOCs are bad, and old school technology... they step down the line level/speaker level voltage to low level voltage. You USED to need these because most aftermarket amps back in the day ONLY supported LOW level inputs. They're bad because they're just another source to introduce electronic noise. Your stepping down a signal, feeding it to an amp which beefs it up again. Why step it down if the amp can accept speaker level input? The signal at speaker level is cleaner, stronger, and hasn't been filtered by the LOC's limited filters.

Most new modern amps support high/speaker level inputs.

My JLe1200 driving my drop in 8W3v2 is wired line level, and working great, even though the 8W3v2 isn't an IB sub. You just have to be careful not to overdrive the sub...

Tripnbeats

Ok first read the paragraph over n over n over again until u understand it and do the math on everything. Ive installed a lot of systems and broken a lot of everything... until I understood what was going on and how to convert wattage to voltage on paper and measure outputs (I take out my notes from school on that stuff).... the voltage thats converted from the wattage on our amplified signal is not 200mv-2v... so its really not meant to use the high inputs unless u cut the cable from behind the radio (where its only "SIGNAL OUTPUT") to run to the high inputs on the amp... THATS 200mv-2v.......when ur plugging the cable in from the speaker end of things to the high level input ur doing more harm because that range of wattage/volume/voltage/whatever else u wanna call it is around 200mv-9.5 volts.... so a LOC HAS to be introduced.... and u HAVE to use RCA cables. Im pushing 3 jl w6v2 10 inch at 3000watts max on a 1501bd and im over driving the piss out of them and no harm is being done to them. I fiber resined the front of the box and vented it through the backseat elbow rest. I can go on n on n on about this but im not gonna....i got sleep to catch up on......read the instructions from jl and read what u wrote.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

So have I... Math is cool, good to dust those notes off. Having a pratical understanding of how these things work, and the pro's and cons of introducing uneeded equipment is also valuable.

I would suggest you reread the paragragh...

To correct your statement, the amplified range supports 200mv - 2V (low) and 2V-8V (high).

If at maximum stereo output the woofer pushed speaker level out is at 9.5V signal, this would be easily resolved in tuning by reducing the input sensitivity.

Again, a LOC does not need to be introduced, you just need to reduce to sensitivity of the amp input to prevent "clipping".

Tripnbeats

You are correct for JL amps.....but the thing is other amps dont have or use it (input sensitivity) very impractical..... your trusting a human to do the input calculations for the amp? Thats not good....Id only trust a hand controlling the output levels... Even if you tune the sensitivity down.....your still pushing 9.5 volts through the inputs, regardless... causing damage. the volume of the radio changes while the sensitivity isnt? i dont understand that.....it has to be an up n down cycle and all the amp has to do is enhance the volume not try to balance everything and then spit it out.