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Ah thank you for that insight. Part of the reason I chose that one is because I don't use the A/C controls on the unit and thus prefer the lack of those visible controls. But outside of that are you saying it changes other features as well? If so, what else?
Mainly A/C for our cars but it also reads things like the doors/trunk being open. Not sure what else. swc luckily doesn't need the canbus since they're analog and almost every android head unit can assign functions to analog inputs without a canbus. If you have the navi system/disc changer in the back, it might be able to communicate with some things there. I know some cars, it ties into the CD system but I'm not sure about our 3rd gens. Overall, not too much with our cars but potentially, it could do more given the right tools
Any fixes yet for the constant audio buzzing sound? This is the last thing with the unit I really want to get fixed... Thanks!
I'm about to do a revamp of my car's audio system. When I do, I plan to try to map out and tie directly to our unit's dsp chip. This should get rid of the buzzing AND give us back 4 channel balancing (since they only made it two channels on ours for some annoying reason). I will update on here with pics and how-to when I do. Will also be changing the LED color on the buttons.
Also, has anyone ran into issues with some apps not being compatible with this unut from the Play Store?
They will just install like normal apks via package installer. Then you can go to settings>factory(code: 3368 )>default launcher and select from the different ones which will actually have the v4, v6, or v59 since they all just show as launcher 3 in the main launcher selection. Note, you can only have one of each number since they just update (i.e, launcherv59 will update launcherv59, launcherv4 will update launcherv4, etc).
As far as apps not installing from the play store, it's because these devices aren't really certified for a lot of apps. I have a write-up on xda under "FYT Tesla Style Units" that will help you fix it but is a little more involved than installing the launchers
Last edited by icemint.asa; Apr 6, 2024 at 04:25 PM.
@OnlyDaanish I was snooping around a bit and found that Navitech has a website that has a guide with new firmware (20240103) and interestingly enough, a new MCU update. Wonder what else it fixes beyond Android Auto
@OnlyDaanish I was snooping around a bit and found that Navitech has a website that has a guide with new firmware (20240103) and interestingly enough, a new MCU update. Wonder what else it fixes beyond Android Auto
Nice.
I am lazy. Can you post direct link to tl related updates.
@OnlyDaanish I was snooping around a bit and found that Navitech has a website that has a guide with new firmware (20240103) and interestingly enough, a new MCU update. Wonder what else it fixes beyond Android Auto
Interestingly enough, it now says it has 6 channel DSP audio. I wonder if these new units are actually 6 channel vs older ones like mine that are 2 channel. Im doing this update today at some point.
Interestingly enough, it now says it has 6 channel DSP audio. I wonder if these new units are actually 6 channel vs older ones like mine that are 2 channel. Im doing this update today at some point.
They've always had 6 ch DSPs (2x front, 2x rear, 2x sub) as far as I can tell. However, they have an unusual setup where the harnesses are only 2 ch instead of utilizing the 6 ch. I'm going to try wire to the dsp directly and bypass the AMP IC chip for my new amp setup to hopefully get better control + cleaner sound.
So I did the update, and now I have issues I didn't before. These two buttons are on my screen, and I can't figure out how to get rid of them. Also, my default volume level is stuck at 18, and it won't let me adjust bit. Last, my backup camera now doesn't work, which it did before.
Last edited by TLTypeSDream; Apr 9, 2024 at 06:39 PM.
Reason: Image
So I did the update, and now I have issues I didn't before. These two buttons are on my screen, and I can't figure out how to get rid of them. Also, my default volume level is stuck at 18, and it won't let me adjust bit. Last, my backup camera now doesn't work, which it did before.
Go to settings>factory(PW:3368)>turn off 360 cam. There's also setting to turn on default volume either there or in the settings that you have to turn on to set default volume. The other button you can turn off in the settings of the app. I don't remember what it's called but it should be in the app drawer, I think something "assist"?
Last edited by icemint.asa; Apr 9, 2024 at 07:05 PM.
Also, any of you that update, you can edit the updatecfg.txt file to where the wipe options are marked out with a "#" in front of them. That way you will potentially keep your data
Go to settings>factory(PW:3368)>turn off 360 cam. There's also setting to turn on default volume either there or in the settings that you have to turn on to set default volume. The other button you can turn off in the settings of the app. I don't remember what it's called but it should be in the app drawer, I think something "assist"?
Thanks! Got everything except the turn off 360 cam. For some reason I can't find that, and everything relates to 360 is off.
I can confirm that Android Auto is full screen now, so that's fixed.
Interestingly enough, it now says it has 6 channel DSP audio. I wonder if these new units are actually 6 channel vs older ones like mine that are 2 channel. Im doing this update today at some point.
If it has became standard feature, they should have changed to wireing and it should be available. The question is if it was accompanied by updated slots in the back of unit.
Thanks! Got everything except the turn off 360 cam. For some reason I can't find that, and everything relates to 360 is off.
I can confirm that Android Auto is full screen now, so that's fixed.
Does DRM work with this update? There's an app called DRM Info on the Play Store. If it has support it should say L3 under the Widevine section. I'm debating if I should flash back to this firmware or keep the alternative one I'm on
I finally got around to replacing the button LEDs to white. I wouldn't recommend this unless you're good at soldering but it is possible. Components are very small and it was almost impossible to remove the original LEDs. These use 0603 SMD LEDs (bought some on AliExpress for $3). I have the board marked with + - for you guys if you want to try it for yourself. I used low temp solder paste to not risk damaging other components. You have to remove the back (5 screws, only the ones attached to the back plate only) then 6 screws holding the board in place which you can move to the side (the mic cords are ran through the hole in the PCB on the right). Be careful when lifing the back off, lots of ribbon cables and it's not fun if you break one.
LED board/Buttons LED side of LED Board 0603 SMD LEDs New LEDs (ignore the bad soldering job)
After doing some research, I discovered that our units could use different cables since these are generic FYT devices. I bought one off AliExpress with the sub output and mic. The downside to this one is that it doesn't have the SIM card pinout. However, there is also a sim slot in the back of our units that you can try to use alternatively. There is still just the front outputs, no rear (oddly, 2 x front outputs for some reason but same pins). The rear channels are in the 8 pin adapter that has the canbus. I have another harness coming in for it. Sub output works with our units, pins seem to be correct as I expected. New cable Old cable (Original that came with it) Old cable attachments New cable attachments New cable attachments closer Sim slots
Why are the rear channels labled ASL and ASR and not RCA RR, RCA RL? Those abbreviations are typically for Automatic Sound Leveling and Auto Sound Reduction, have you confirmed that those pins are outputting low level audio for the rear channels?
Why are the rear channels labled ASL and ASR and not RCA RR, RCA RL? Those abbreviations are typically for Automatic Sound Leveling and Auto Sound Reduction, have you confirmed that those pins are outputting low level audio for the rear channels?
Only the 20 pin has come in so far. The 8 pin should be in soon. As for the pinout sheet, it came from 4pda so most likely translated from Russian. The other pinouts that's in mostly Russian has them labeled as RCA RR, RCA RL.
I really doubt these units have ASL or ASR, especially since other units with these boards use those pinouts as RR and RL. I am obviously going to check the output when it arrives and will get back with the results to verify
Does DRM work with this update? There's an app called DRM Info on the Play Store. If it has support it should say L3 under the Widevine section. I'm debating if I should flash back to this firmware or keep the alternative one I'm on
DRM is the protection they use on video apps. If a device isn't certified, ones that require it won't work. It'll just play a black screen instead of the content.
Originally Posted by TLTypeSDream
Will this be able to just splice into the existing harness, or would that need to bypass the factory amp?
No, you don't have to bypass the amp. You should be able to tie it into the harness, gain back the DSP balance/filter functions to how they're meant to be.
New variant of Acura TL 3rd gen head unit just dropped
Saw this on AliExpress. Practically the same unit as ours but with two dials and a harness that doesn't have both high input/low input plugs for 2007-2008 and 2004-2006 TLs. Also looks like the display is smaller. What do you guys think of the dials though?
I love the physical dials. Really wish ours came with them. Any progress on the 8-pin cable?
I have it in but haven't tried it out yet. The audio project I'm using it with is a bit lengthy and I've had some other maintenance to work on (tie rods, a/c, exhaust). Haven't had a lot of time off for it
Originally Posted by mariusz439
Also waiting for any news about sound harness.
And also still waiting for the 360 cam write up 😊
Cannot find it. Can you please paste the link.
BTW our navitech disappeared from Ali - no offers.
And here's Navitech's: https://a.aliexpress.com/_ms7KdCq
(It's still there. They call themselves Xeowyn too so it looks like they've moved to the new co-branding)
**Let me reiterate: The one with dials is pretty much the same unit as the newer Navitech ones except with dials and some edited hardware keys. The processor, chips, etcs are the same as the one we have. Some of us have the UIS7862, while more recent buyers have the UIS7862s which is in the dial unit but they're compatible with each other. The s version is just updated and a bit faster.
I'd like to say that I have but I've been frying bigger fish instead. I did map out the outputs. I plan to solder wires the other sides of the SMD components but it seems it's FL, FR, RL, RR and the sub output. The BU32107 has 6 ch output but our board only utilizes 5 ch and doesn't use one of the sub channels. It doesn't trace anywhere but if you really wanted to, you could probably utilize it but I'm not worried about it.
Dude i cannot update my firmware as much as i tried. I even made sure that it's formatted as Fat32 and dumping the files into the root of the usb drive. I dont know what else to do. My android version is still on 8.1 too -_-.
All the problems with the heat unit seem to be in new units. You guys might want to restore your units and get the latest app that controls climate
my Auto setting has been working fine for years. However you might need new clock screens. I’m getting a new one because mines flickering. And with my new heated seats I actually hear feedback but disconnecting the clock makes it go away. I have a feeling these clocks have a shelf life. So I got a used clock off ebay.
so I just reached out to NaviTech and got a 8gb 128gb unit … hopefully it’s gonna come soon and I will install I am very curious how the auto temp truncation will work, very nervous. Can someone confirm it’s working? Thanks.
so I just reached out to NaviTech and got a 8gb 128gb unit … hopefully it’s gonna come soon and I will install I am very curious how the auto temp truncation will work, very nervous. Can someone confirm it’s working? Thanks.
Mine doesn't work, however I do not know if it is the unit issue or just coincidence as I played with changing wires to have C instead of F and than back to F as the navitech unit requires it. I've changed all the temp and light sensors, cleaned air mix motor assembly. But stil it is hot or cold - almost nothing between. Now looking for used motor assemble to replace. But this is different story and threads 😊
Mine doesn't work, however I do not know if it is the unit issue or just coincidence as I played with changing wires to have C instead of F and than back to F as the navitech unit requires it. I've changed all the temp and light sensors, cleaned air mix motor assembly. But stil it is hot or cold - almost nothing between. Now looking for used motor assemble to replace. But this is different story and threads 😊
understood. Yea, I’m worried it’s not gonna work on mine either and want to know others, this is my second unit. I messaged them before buying and they claimed they fixed the temperature now, but I’m not sure.
the way it should work on auto and ambient temp like 72, fan speed should be minimal, and blowing not hot or cold, when increasing the temperature, it should start blowing heat and increase fan speed based on how high you go on the temperature, and same for AC cold when decreasing the temperature.
Can anybody update:
1. is there any new wireing available which improves old units (someone mentioned below testing new wires but haven't sum up)
2. To update the temperature app/ driver do I have to update the all firmware (which I would like to avoid not mess up) or there is individual file I can replace. And if there is one file what is the name and where I can find it
Hello AcuraZine, I'm the newest member on this forum, and I am the proud owner of a 2004 TL. I've had this unit installed since January, but there have been quite a few things that I've wanted to add on, but don't have the experience. Mainly, I routed my backup camera to the unit and discovered that I'm missing the 12 pin to video output cable. I would also like to address the constant feedback because it's starting to drive me insane, but I see mixed results from the sound filter. Does the thing even work?
Dials
newly update
