Wow...These Brembos..
06-07-2009, 10:53 PM
#81
Drifting
I think a lot of the questions and misconceptions in this thread can be clarified by reading through StopTech's website. the 4-piston Brembos on the TL are fundamentally the same as the 4-piston front brakes on an RL, you just pay for more expensive pads with the Brembos.
read on.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml
the #1 basic fact on braking as noted:
read on.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml
the #1 basic fact on braking as noted:
There are a few basic facts that must always be kept in mind when discussing brake systems:
1) The brakes don't stop the vehicle - the tires do. The brakes slow the rotation of the wheels and tires. This means that braking distance measured on a single stop from a highway legal speed or higher is almost totally dependent upon the stopping ability of the tires in use - which, in the case of aftermarket advertising, may or may not be the ones originally fitted to the car by the OE manufacturer.
1) The brakes don't stop the vehicle - the tires do. The brakes slow the rotation of the wheels and tires. This means that braking distance measured on a single stop from a highway legal speed or higher is almost totally dependent upon the stopping ability of the tires in use - which, in the case of aftermarket advertising, may or may not be the ones originally fitted to the car by the OE manufacturer.
06-08-2009, 09:25 AM
#82
^^Good post !
In resume, better get some better tires then some Bigger brakes!!! Thats always been a no brainer to me.
While we're on the subject, if you guys are looking for some quiet, durable, high performance tires for summer take a look at these.
Goodyear Eagle F1 ALL-SEASON
I had the Eagle F1 GS-D3 last summer and had a problem with one tire. Since those tire were discontinued, Goodyear replaced 4 tires with the all season and Its a day and night difference. I recommend those tires to all TL owners!
In resume, better get some better tires then some Bigger brakes!!! Thats always been a no brainer to me.
While we're on the subject, if you guys are looking for some quiet, durable, high performance tires for summer take a look at these.
Goodyear Eagle F1 ALL-SEASON
I had the Eagle F1 GS-D3 last summer and had a problem with one tire. Since those tire were discontinued, Goodyear replaced 4 tires with the all season and Its a day and night difference. I recommend those tires to all TL owners!
06-08-2009, 05:16 PM
#83
some like it stock
i mention this because in the "should i upgrade from a base to a type-S" thread i posted some braking results from C/D on a base 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and a type S 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and the type S pulled up 26 feet shorter.
06-08-2009, 05:29 PM
#84
Team Owner
wouldn't suspension play a part? if the weight of the car isn't being thrown forward as much in a panic stop, then i would suspect the load on the tires would be less, resulting in more available traction for braking plus more involvement of the rear brakes/tires in slowing things down.
i mention this because in the "should i upgrade from a base to a type-S" thread i posted some braking results from C/D on a base 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and a type S 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and the type S pulled up 26 feet shorter.
i mention this because in the "should i upgrade from a base to a type-S" thread i posted some braking results from C/D on a base 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and a type S 6MT (with performance tires and Brembos) and the type S pulled up 26 feet shorter.
06-08-2009, 06:29 PM
#85
I'm not on the Brembo train the way some are here
I'm surprised that the ABS was not activated. Doesn't the TL have brake assist where it senses panic stops and applies maximum braking?
If ABS was not activated, it wasn't a real panic stop.
If ABS was not activated, it wasn't a real panic stop.
06-08-2009, 11:35 PM
#87
Team Owner
Qualify "better". Easier pedal effort, less noise, what?
One this is for sure, they did not reduce stopping distances. The only way this would be possible is if your stock brembos didn't have enough power to go into ABS.
06-08-2009, 11:44 PM
#88
Drifting
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...e_a_Brake.aspx
more pistons = better feel, making the brakes easier to use/modulate up until the point you lock them up (threshold braking).
What Do They Do?
Most people would say that brakes stop the car. Wrong! The friction of the tires against the roadway is what slows down and stops a car; the brakes actually stop the wheels from turning. Because most modern cars use disc brakes exclusively, we will ignore drum-type brakes for this article. To simplify things, we won't get into anti-lock brakes either.
Disc brakes consist of:
* Brake discs (or rotors)
* Calipers
* Brake pads
* Brake lines
* Brake master cylinder
A disc brake has a plate-like disc (also called a rotor) attached to the wheel. This plate is squeezed by the brake pads within a caliper, much the same way that you might squeeze a spinning plate between your thumb and fingers to slow it down. The brake pads consist of two layers - a metal backing plate and a high-friction material that actually does the work by pressing against the brake disc. In addition to serving as a "platform" for the friction material, the backing plate also protects the brake caliper from excessive heat buildup.
Calipers
The brake caliper that wraps around part of each disc contains small pistons. These pistons push the brake pads against the disc. The pistons are pushed outward by the hydraulic action of brake fluid that comes from the brake master cylinder. The caliper often contains two or more such pistons so that the brake pads will evenly distribute pressure against the brake disc.
Generally speaking, the more pistons in a caliper, the more evenly the pressure on the pads is spread onto the brake disc. That's why high-performance cars have multiple-piston brake calipers. The hydraulic brake pressure is built up in the master cylinder by the action of your foot on the brake pedal. The pressure travels through the brake lines from the master cylinder to the calipers. Most brake systems have power assistance that helps increase the action of your foot on the brake pedal, reducing the braking effort.
Most people would say that brakes stop the car. Wrong! The friction of the tires against the roadway is what slows down and stops a car; the brakes actually stop the wheels from turning. Because most modern cars use disc brakes exclusively, we will ignore drum-type brakes for this article. To simplify things, we won't get into anti-lock brakes either.
Disc brakes consist of:
* Brake discs (or rotors)
* Calipers
* Brake pads
* Brake lines
* Brake master cylinder
A disc brake has a plate-like disc (also called a rotor) attached to the wheel. This plate is squeezed by the brake pads within a caliper, much the same way that you might squeeze a spinning plate between your thumb and fingers to slow it down. The brake pads consist of two layers - a metal backing plate and a high-friction material that actually does the work by pressing against the brake disc. In addition to serving as a "platform" for the friction material, the backing plate also protects the brake caliper from excessive heat buildup.
Calipers
The brake caliper that wraps around part of each disc contains small pistons. These pistons push the brake pads against the disc. The pistons are pushed outward by the hydraulic action of brake fluid that comes from the brake master cylinder. The caliper often contains two or more such pistons so that the brake pads will evenly distribute pressure against the brake disc.
Generally speaking, the more pistons in a caliper, the more evenly the pressure on the pads is spread onto the brake disc. That's why high-performance cars have multiple-piston brake calipers. The hydraulic brake pressure is built up in the master cylinder by the action of your foot on the brake pedal. The pressure travels through the brake lines from the master cylinder to the calipers. Most brake systems have power assistance that helps increase the action of your foot on the brake pedal, reducing the braking effort.
06-09-2009, 12:01 AM
#89
Team Owner
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...e_a_Brake.aspx
more pistons = better feel, making the brakes easier to use/modulate up until the point you lock them up (threshold braking).
more pistons = better feel, making the brakes easier to use/modulate up until the point you lock them up (threshold braking).
06-09-2009, 02:56 PM
#90
^^That's true but the surface need to be a little wet or uneven so that the ABS will come on.
I tried it 2 days ago with my brembos, it was a chilly night, my brakes were already warm and I was going around 80km/h on a NEW even asphalt road, jumped on the brakes and the ABS didn't come on, but I was reading on our brakes last night and Im sure I saw an electronic device that can release the brakes a little on a specific wheel that gets stock while braking. That electronic device as the purpose to make use stay in our lane without major effort....I'll try to find what Im talkin about!
Great thread!!
I tried it 2 days ago with my brembos, it was a chilly night, my brakes were already warm and I was going around 80km/h on a NEW even asphalt road, jumped on the brakes and the ABS didn't come on, but I was reading on our brakes last night and Im sure I saw an electronic device that can release the brakes a little on a specific wheel that gets stock while braking. That electronic device as the purpose to make use stay in our lane without major effort....I'll try to find what Im talkin about!
Great thread!!
Last edited by VmtSquad; 06-09-2009 at 03:00 PM.
06-09-2009, 03:00 PM
#91
Team Owner
^^That's true but the surface need to be a little wet or uneven so that the ABS will come on.
I tried it 2 days ago with my brembos, it was a chilly night, my brakes were already warm and I was going around 80km/h on a NEW even asphalt road, jumped on the brakes and the ABS didn't come on, but I was reading on our brakes last night and Im sure I saw an electronic device that can control a wheel that gets blocked by releasing the brake a little on that wheel. That electronic device makes use stay in lane without effort....
Great thread!!
I tried it 2 days ago with my brembos, it was a chilly night, my brakes were already warm and I was going around 80km/h on a NEW even asphalt road, jumped on the brakes and the ABS didn't come on, but I was reading on our brakes last night and Im sure I saw an electronic device that can control a wheel that gets blocked by releasing the brake a little on that wheel. That electronic device makes use stay in lane without effort....
Great thread!!
Push harder lol. Trust me, one of two things will happen. The wheels will lock or you'll feel the ABS kick in.
06-09-2009, 03:13 PM
#92
nope
Water reduces the coefficient of friction so less pedal effort is required to activate ABS under wet/icy conditions, however, ABS can be activated under dry conditions.
It is very easy to prove this. Go out and slam on your brakes. Your ABS will activate no matter what surface you are on.
It is very easy to prove this. Go out and slam on your brakes. Your ABS will activate no matter what surface you are on.
06-09-2009, 03:18 PM
#93
Actually tell u the truth...with the brembos, abs dont kick in as often as u think..
they will stop on a dime without abs no kiddin..im sure u guys know what im talkin about if u ever do hard stops..stoptimes i forget i even have abs!
they will stop on a dime without abs no kiddin..im sure u guys know what im talkin about if u ever do hard stops..stoptimes i forget i even have abs!
06-09-2009, 05:05 PM
#94
Team Owner
And the base brakes stop just as well for a few stops.
06-09-2009, 06:03 PM
#95
The brembos are consistent..
I use to (or still do) go through the twisties and do alot of hard braking(yes first set of pads went out quick) and after many hard stops, they bite just as hard as they did, many hard stops ago..
I use to (or still do) go through the twisties and do alot of hard braking(yes first set of pads went out quick) and after many hard stops, they bite just as hard as they did, many hard stops ago..
06-09-2009, 06:26 PM
#96
Team Owner
Exactly. That is their advantage over the base brakes.
07-01-2009, 08:22 AM
#97
08' WDP Type S
I just had mine replaced at 27500. It may be extra money, but when it comes down to it, it is probably worth it. I think next time I may buy the pads myself to save some bucks from the stealership. Replacing the brembo front pads, and machining the rotors cost me 600 bucks yesterday, plus the cost of B12 maintenance. UGh. I wish I could fix cars like I can fix computers on my own
07-01-2009, 05:02 PM
#98
I can build computers AND fix cars!
You don't have to be rich to play. If you can take off the wheels and pop 2 pins out of the calipers, you can do the job yourself. It is easy as pie!
If you can turn a socket wrench you can take-off the rotors too and bring them to get machined at the local shop for $15 each.
The prices the Acura dealers charge are insane. There is no way I would ever pay them $600 for a pad change. Did you know that the local Midas can do it for like $70-130? That includes machining the rotors! Call them for a quote.
If you can turn a socket wrench you can take-off the rotors too and bring them to get machined at the local shop for $15 each.
The prices the Acura dealers charge are insane. There is no way I would ever pay them $600 for a pad change. Did you know that the local Midas can do it for like $70-130? That includes machining the rotors! Call them for a quote.
This is the only downfall of the brembos. I guess you gotta pay to play, right?
I just had mine replaced at 27500. It may be extra money, but when it comes down to it, it is probably worth it. I think next time I may buy the pads myself to save some bucks from the stealership. Replacing the brembo front pads, and machining the rotors cost me 600 bucks yesterday, plus the cost of B12 maintenance. UGh. I wish I could fix cars like I can fix computers on my own
I just had mine replaced at 27500. It may be extra money, but when it comes down to it, it is probably worth it. I think next time I may buy the pads myself to save some bucks from the stealership. Replacing the brembo front pads, and machining the rotors cost me 600 bucks yesterday, plus the cost of B12 maintenance. UGh. I wish I could fix cars like I can fix computers on my own
07-01-2009, 07:49 PM
#99
Team Owner
This is the only downfall of the brembos. I guess you gotta pay to play, right?
I just had mine replaced at 27500. It may be extra money, but when it comes down to it, it is probably worth it. I think next time I may buy the pads myself to save some bucks from the stealership. Replacing the brembo front pads, and machining the rotors cost me 600 bucks yesterday, plus the cost of B12 maintenance. UGh. I wish I could fix cars like I can fix computers on my own
I just had mine replaced at 27500. It may be extra money, but when it comes down to it, it is probably worth it. I think next time I may buy the pads myself to save some bucks from the stealership. Replacing the brembo front pads, and machining the rotors cost me 600 bucks yesterday, plus the cost of B12 maintenance. UGh. I wish I could fix cars like I can fix computers on my own
07-01-2009, 08:32 PM
#100
Engineer and Machinist
And to the guy who got stock pads and rotors turned down for 600 -- I put EBC's yellow stuff race pads and EBC rotors on my car for cheaper than what you paid for your stock setup with worn rotors (not including the labor - I did the install). Anyone who needs to replace their Brembo brakes needs to go to buybrakes.com and order up EBC. Also google "buybrakes.com discount" and apply the 10 dollar off discount to your order.
Last edited by SlowRiderr; 07-01-2009 at 08:35 PM.
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