I just recently decided to time my 0-60 and did a few runs on tape so I could time the 0-60 time. I found that im averaging 7.5- 8 seconds 0-60. This seems slow, I thought the stock time for a Auto TL was around 6.5 seconds. My only engine mods are a ported intake manifold and a Fujita CIA. I was going to do the throttle body coolant bypass mod within a few days, but that probably wont add much power. I have new wheels which save about 20 pounds, open mouthed grille, and a subwoofer / amp that is around 35 pounds. The car does have 130,000 miles on it, could it be that it is just time for my TL to RIP? My intake filter is probably pretty dirty by now because I haven't ever cleaned or changed it since the intakes been on, would that really effect the performance that much? Would SeaFoam do me any good?

 

as miles go up; the car does not get weaker. in fact she gets stronger.

so, mileage is not to blame.

what kind of tires are you running?
if crappy tires; no traction = poor 0-60 times

 

Tires are Michelin 235/45r17 , couldn't even loose traction in a straight line if I wanted to...

 

correct me if im wrong, but the posted 0-60 times for cars are with a rolling start. so its expected that yours will be higher* if you were stopped. but so many things are in consideration over 0-60 its hard to tell

 

seafoam worth a shot

 

give plastidip a shot.

 

^

 

Ya it seems like a new air filter and seafoam are my last hope. I was thinking about purchasing jpipe, precats, ect in the future... but it seems pointless if im buying these just to get to stock power.

Ok so just spray it into the intake through a Nitrous system?

 

With 130k miles on the car, I don't think the OP is suffering compression loss - however - eventually all combustion engines lose power at higher mileage due to wear from the cylinders. You will lose compression over time as seals wear down and thus horsepower in the process. Even a well-maintained engine is going to lose power with enough miles on it.

Again, at 130k, I highly, HIGHLY doubt there's any compression loss, though.

also am I the only one who noticed the OP asked if it's time for his car to RIP simply because the 0-60 times are slow?

 

Haha I mean I have been thinking about getting a new car for awhile now, this just adds to the decision. Maybe not for a year or two though, my TL has been good to me for the 9 years Iv'e owned it.

I have run this car pretty hard throughout its life, and it is amazing how well the J32 has held up.

Theres no really telling what type of power my engine is putting out without a dyno, but I thought 0-60 would be the best statistic that I could compare with.

 

meh, tough to tell on the 0-60's in regards to your power. 0-60 in an uncontrolled environment to me is no gauge of power - too many other variables to consider - tires, road conditions, temperature/humidity, launch ability.

IF you've had it for 9 years though then I can see how you'd be ready for something else and can't really blame you lol

 

For the same reason sport bikes are fast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-to-weight_ratio

It's a total luxury car. It's not suppose to be fast, is it? I guess what I'm asking is was this a suprise?

 

Let me correct myself, slow compared to another TL.

 

Turn of the traction control, and maybe even power brake it a little

 

Trade in for TypeS MT

 

I used both of those suggestions during my testing, thanks though.

Ha ya that would work well, but I feel my next car will be RWD

 

what color is your powerband?

 

did someone mention nos?

 

Dude
Mine is at 122k, only real mod I have in there is CAI, TB bypass, TB spacer...I guess that's all. Damn I got nothing

Stock exhaust
Stock rims
Tires with 45k - 2yrs on them

I get 5.8 - 5.9 secs to 60

 

The best 0-60 I have had with a bone stock (engine wise) TL was 6.51 seconds- measured with Dynolicious. That was even with a couple of people in the car too.

I found that leaving it in D and stomping on it works best.

 

I can do a much better 0-60 time using manual mode, but you have to nail the shifts at the perfect rpm which is exactly right before the fuel cutoff. its tricky because the transmission doesnt shift at the exact same time you move the shifter. the advantage of manual mode is allowing the use of 300 rpm more than in D.

 

I guess Type-S is different than.
0-60 on UA6, could leave it on D. 1-2 shift is at perfect RPM

to 3rd and 4th you have to manual shift to get perfect rpm

D shifting 2nd to 3rd, RPM doens't hit the VTEC, drops below because of shifting early
if you do perfect shifting from 2nd to 3rd...boom starts with VTEC at 4750rpm

4750 is the perfect shift I've got from 2nd to 3rd

that's UA6

 

Op you asked why is your car so slow yet you know that your intake filter is dirty, you added weight, you said you already know the bypass mod isnt a real power gainer... To me you seem like you know why the car isnt as fast but you just had greater expectations with very little reasoning...

 

I am starting to think im loosing a lot of power from heat after the engines been on for a little. When the car first starts up it feels strong, but eventually looses a lot of power. I know cars usually have more power on start up, but I feel the heat is really affecting my performance. Hoping the throttle body bypass will really help retain power

 

OP- if you're not using Redline Type-F ATF, you might consider that and changing out the AT Sensors.

 

I'd say my car is about stock weight with some dynamic weight loss because the lighter rims. Was at least hoping for a stock 0-60 time with the little mods I have.

Anyone know if I could put an oversize AEM filter on the Fujita intake? If so mind providing a link?

 

Sorry but what does AT stand for? Auto Tranny?

 

but.......but....

I thought I was the only one who thought this. People often oversee the obvious.

Your car [most likely] isn't more powerful when cold. The engine is just idling at a higher rate when cold, and you really shouldn't be rough on it as cold oil makes the engine work harder to get to where you want it to be amongst other reasons of course.

 

Not sure why anyone would ever put seafoam in any vehicle they care about. There are so many negatives... Just google it and look, you're not doing your engine any favors by putting that crap in it. If you really want to clean out the motor, go to a shop and get an induction service done with a quality product.

 

Yes AT is Auto
Don't do flush. Do drain and fill for 4 times but with 1000 miles of intervals
One fill is 3 quarts

Redline F is good.
I mix F/Lightweight/D4 together

--

Do the bypass, it will increase the throotle response. Intake won't be able to suck that heat from there anymore
As a person that drives the car in city usually, I saw the difference. Yes engine bay heats up and slowes down but not too effective. CAI and a bypass is much more effective

Remove the cover on the hood as well. That black thing

Read this 3 pages
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=699978&page=3
I started to do the bypass at around page 40 on my thread
http://ytl.acurazine.com/forums/show...bypass&page=40

--

What diameter does that Fujita intake have?
Must have higher than 3"
I even saw the difference going from 2.5 to 3

Bigger filter is better as well. I tried many of them
Use AEM

I don't recommend AEM CAI, angle on that pipe is too damn high
Search and go custom 4" or buy what I bought, cut the end piece and throw AEM filter at it

http://ytl.acurazine.com/forums/show...bypass&page=36

That's all that comes to my mind right now
Using 3 quarts of Redline F, gives harsh shifting as I remember swoosh was saying

Ohh add a thottle body spacer too. I notive evey little change on my car and that little thing really did change the pull. I wasn't believing it.
Clean the area too as you removed the throtle body
Don't move the butterfly with your fingers, make someone hit the gas pedal and open it, and then clean around it

Never used seafoam
Never heard good things about it

 

Putting on n oversized enormous filter doesnt necessarily make the car any faster... Better yet changing n putting on a clean filter may.... You say your car feels a little slow and its close to stock weight, close to stock weight and stock weight is different... I dont want to come off as an ass trust me, but sometimes you have ti see and accept the obvious, car is slightly more heavy with a dirty filter... It should feel slightly slower.... Or slower in general... Also with 0-60 times, those are done different elevations temps and probably numerous attempts... Just because 0-60 post that rating for your car doesnt mean everytime you go out you will see that exact same number lol... Im still a little new to acuras but extremely familiar with tracks n drag times... Depending on temperature and elevation you can be a whole second or more slower than rated times... I say all that to say this.... Just fix the obvious and then evaluate how it performs

 

Why is my auto TL so slow?

The answer is in your question......

 

^Thank you, I was too lazy to google the pic

 

what kind of gas are you using?

heatsoak maybe the issue?

 

What temperature was it and where are you located? Are you sure the trans isn't slipping? Tires hooking? Do you weigh 500 lbs? Too many factors, there's not necessarily anything wrong with your car.

 

bcuz its not a type s buddy no offense or anything like that

 

best response ever. EVAR!

a type-s auto wont do much better.

 

 

 

I've driven a base TL before and compared to my type s its not much slower, only marginally. however the way the throttle feels is a little different, maybe that might make it feel slower than the type s than it actually is.