I don't really see the point of the TB spacer if you're using the IM spacer too. The manifold will be cool enough from just the IM spacer and bypass mod.

Have you looked at the P2R IM gasket? And no extra gaskets needed.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-222289.aspx

 

thats cheap for IM spacer, I already have the TB spacer and two TB thermal gaskets... do you know if I will need different bolts after I install the IM thermal spacer

 

No, same bolts.

You only need new bolts if you install an MDX IM spacer (or similar).

 

or you take the other hose to throw on instead of caps. that's what i did since i didn't want to go to the store.

 

+1

 

do i reuse the oem gasket with the new IM thermal spacer or just discard it?

 

I just used the thermal spacer itself as a gasket because it is a plastic type of material. Doesn't mean I'm right tho. I haven't had any problems.

Might want to shoot excelerate an email and ask them if you need to use gaskets with the p2r thermal gasket and see what they say. They know all about that stuff and are familiar with our cars. Let me know what you find out.

 

Has anyone had a problem with this mod in NY winter weather?

 

EGR Delete Update

After 2-1/2 weeks since doing the EGR Delete, there has been definitively no change in my engine's detonation characteristics (compared to having an operational EGR). And, my gas mileage definitively did not drop after the EGR Delete either.

 

Are Texas winters like NY winters? I can't imagine. It gets close to zero degrees here some nights

 

^dont think he was answering your question, just updating the thread on his EGR delete.

and no, Texas winters do not get that cold..
maybe on a good day, gets down into the teens. but thats as cold as it gets

 

You know what after I replied and read back at his response I dont think it was either. lol.

 

This is correct. Thanks justnspace

 

If I perform this mod on my car, would it still be worthwhile to get the P2R TB spacer? The TB should be much cooler and thus not transfer extra heat over to the IM.

I'll also be doing the hybrid ultimate cooling mod as well and am still on the fence about CAI's.

 

^^^ just replied to your post in the other thread !!!

 

Went through all 3 pages but did not see anyone mentioning this so, I just removed the 2 caps from the throttle body and coolant was trapped in the caps not much but there was some. Is that normal?

 

That is fine, let it drain and recap it.

 

No, winder isn't going to get your TB butterfly stuck. Yes, freezing air going through your intake, but its not going to freeze your TB butterfly. Even less so when driving...if your engine components are anywhere near the freezing point, including your TB, your engine is in trouble. For the TB to get stuck, it needs some heavy moisture in the air so it can freeze, but that heavy moisture is absorbed by the filter, otherwise rain water would've been sucked into your intake if you ever drove through rain.

The crankcase gases are not sufficient enough to overwhelm the purge system. So you will never ever ever ever ever EVER! see heavy oil vapor or gases, or even a single drop of oil come out of your valve cover relief outlets. All this considering your engine is in a *healthy state* ... All you will see is a very slight dose of steam, if that at most times.

Worn cylinder walls, rings, or valve seals, leaky valves or anything that would allow compression to escape, will produce the stuff that'd require a catch can, or avoid rerouting them into the IM. But the way a healthy TL engine runs, there's no good reason to ever do this.

Now, on an FI application, things change a bit, but not so much worse, unless of course there's something wrong with your TL engine... I have been running FI for a few years now, on even looser cylinder/piston clearance than the TL has in stock form, and there isn't ever any sign of what some seem to be focusing on trying to avoid. And remember, we're talking primitive boost levels here, with our engines. When you go 15 psi and beyond than you're going to start to see more of this stuff.

With that being said, on an engine in a healthy state, oil vapors, gases or whatever you want to call them, aren't even sufficient enough to increase your IATs or hurting your performance.

I'm in no way trying to discourage anyone from doing this...Sometimes even pointless modding can be and is fun...however, I'm just saying

 

Boost in the IM doesn't reverse the crankcase vacuum and pressurize the crankcase?

 

yes it does. i had to vent my crank case on my mustang after i installed a procharger for that reason.

 

The car is still running fine and no harmful effects from the plugs and filter from the original post. I only check the filter at oil changes and no dripping oil so far. It serves little purpose on a normally aspirated motor, but I didn't need hot coolant circulating through my throttle body in Vegas temperatures.

 

^^^ the coolant bypass does wonders....am thinking of the manifold filter....

might do it in the next couple days

 

Manifold Filter???:confused

 

pcv system delete.


also, so far i've been down as far as 5 degrees F* on a snowy day. no throttle body problems, no starting problems, nothing.

everyone is def fine.

 

Ahh thanks

 

yeah PCV delete and crankcase filter...is what i meant....

 

Just did the tb bypass. And works good

 

first of all PCV is for "positive crankcase ventilation" it never flows in reverse. Its purpose is to remove high pressure from the crankcase (usually due to blow by) by using the intake system to draw air from the crankcase. The only negatives from this are the hot air drawn into the intake and the oil drawn in from blow by which can cause a dirty TB and intake. If replaced with a filter, just be sure to check and clean the filter when neccessary.
The coolant line bypass usually is safe to do in areas where the temp stays pretty warm or mild. In areas that see really cold winters, you can actually have your throttle body freeze and if you are at WOT, it can be a problem. Im in Texas so it has never been an issue on any car I have done this mod to.

 

^ did this TB bypass 3yrs ago and never had a problem. But the car is in the garage at night- maybe thats why i never had to deal with TB being frozen and stuff

 

Here is mine

 

Because of the smell to the cabin, I replaced the rear filter and ran a pipe

 

wow that filter was soaking wet....

i might have something for you Meko...am working on something

 

Like what?

 

Kind of raising this thread from the dead. Does anyone have any concrete results on this mod showing improvement?

 

What kind of improvement are you looking for?

This mod does not have power or mileage improvement....

the TB coolant bypass works well for even KS cold weather....I have not had to redo the mod over winter....I have been running the coolant bypass for over 3 years now without an issue....

about the crankcase bypass....I suggest you leave it like that if you dont know the full functionality....but if you cap off the front and run a dump tube for the rear (like Meko has pictured about) I think it will be a good option....I have been running that setup for 3 years now, again without an issue....

 

Improvements regarding measurable increase in either power or throttle response. Obviously power gains arent going to be huge if any.

 

There are no power gains or throttle response to this mod...at least to a measureable point I would say. It's just merely a mod to keep the TB from soaking in heat from the IM.

 

unless your engine bay is hot as a MOFO and you do this mod along with UCM....

I did find the UCM to help better with heat soak than this mod....but we need all we can get

 

Why does no one one do this the right way and run a catch can?

 

Ask swoosh haha