Who's tried the new Castrol Edge??
02-11-2009, 08:28 AM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
yea man i dont know if there really is a difference or if im just mental and im tricking myself to thinking there is but i def feel the motor saying thank youuuuuuuu!!!
02-11-2009, 10:25 AM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
yup.....supposedly
i just saw it was new and i said ehh no amsoil here might as well give it a shot....im really satisfied with it...we'll see long run if theres more improvement. i wonder how it breaks down in comparision to mobil.
i just saw it was new and i said ehh no amsoil here might as well give it a shot....im really satisfied with it...we'll see long run if theres more improvement. i wonder how it breaks down in comparision to mobil.
09-27-2009, 05:27 PM
#7
its about time for my oil change & i will be switching two vehices to castrol edge 5w30. my Acura 01 CL and my ladies mazda cx 7 '07 from mobil 1 5000miles this week. i will be running a fram extended filter in the CL and a regular fram filter in the mazda. i will report back a performance. As things stand now im getting fuel milage of 275 a tank. with the mobil 1. i think that was great with mobil. Hopefully the Castrol can take care of me. Additionally Castrol has a rebate of $15 bucks if you buy 5quarts of oil or $10 off a 5 quart jug. time will tell how it does.
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09-27-2009, 06:21 PM
#8
09-27-2009, 07:36 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Castrol Edge is the fully synthetic version which compares to Mobil 1 Extended. I work for the company that owns Castrol but I run Mobil 1 Extended in all my vehicles.
09-27-2009, 10:15 PM
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
u know im extremely happy with mobil 1 but castrol has been growing on me more n more......i use it in my lexus and it feels great, in my acura after its broken in and its done its time...... it still feels like it has a hell of a lot more to go. once mobils time is up...its done.
09-27-2009, 10:48 PM
#11
Team Owner
Their "fully synthetic" formula is just a grpIII, no better than most of the Mobil One products. Very overpriced for what you get. It compares to the Amsoil XL non synthetic line. I would run Pennzoil Platinum any day over this stuff for the price.
For the price, why not get a real grp V true ester synthetic like Redline instead of another oil that fades into mediocrity like the rest?
I'm not trying to be negative but it's just another giant advertising scheme for an overpriced average oil.
For the price, why not get a real grp V true ester synthetic like Redline instead of another oil that fades into mediocrity like the rest?
I'm not trying to be negative but it's just another giant advertising scheme for an overpriced average oil.
09-28-2009, 03:03 PM
#12
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I run amsoil in all of my toy's my motorhome ford Triton V10, my Jeep Wrangler, the Honda Accord ex-lwith navi, and the Acura TL a-spec would not use anything else
Mark
Mark
09-28-2009, 04:00 PM
#14
Team Owner
Agreed. 10hp would mean going from a 20w-50 to a 5w-20 and changing the trans and differential to a lightler fluid too. Even then the gains are questionable. That's why I look solely at wear protection. Honestly, I couldn't tell a difference even when cold going from the 5w-20 to a straight 30.
10-11-2009, 11:58 PM
#16
Well the catrol edge is in both cars now the Mazda CX 7 and the CL 01. time will tell how the results and mileage test will do. Also the Mazda seems to be running with a little bit more pick up. But i think thats just because the turbo has new oil, and my car has just had a gas mileage before refuel of 293. Thats still average after one of my oil changes. More post to follow.
10-12-2009, 12:12 AM
#17
one of you should get the oil analyzed at change time- www.blackstone-labs.com is an example of the type of service available
Tells you exactly what going on for wear inside the engine, and can tell how much life the oil had left if you want to run long interval changes of more than 7500 miles (with filter change midway)
Tells you exactly what going on for wear inside the engine, and can tell how much life the oil had left if you want to run long interval changes of more than 7500 miles (with filter change midway)
10-15-2009, 11:29 PM
#20
i use 2 stroke in my tl. love the smell reminds me of my 87 kawasaki stand up jet ski.... you guys should try it, i felt a difference in the power right away. i think i got like 12.3 or maybe 12.4 hp
10-16-2009, 08:24 AM
#25
Haven't tried it, maybe I will at some point in the future. I'm still an Amsoil preferred customer though so I just have it shipped to me. Just made the switch over to 5w20 for the winter and tried their "XL" series. I'm curious to see how much longer it lasts.
11-15-2009, 01:31 AM
#26
As promised here is my progress report for the 01' CL. and the Mazda 07 CX-7. In the acura im still averaging 275 a tank. and in the CX-7 my lady is averaging 260 a tank. So far so good.I will be doing the filters at the end of April early May. Maybe ill do an oil analysis with a respectable lab and see how the engine is doing. For now though all indications are normal. he one good thing about the castrol though is it comes up to temp really quick. I know the temp guage is not an oil indication guage for all those techies. Im talking about the ability of the engine to not lag under acceleration just after start up and a mile or two into a trip. For example... i use to let my car warm up then drive off. Now im off to the races right after my key is inserted. Just a little different than what i have experienced with the mobil. I still feel in my heart that i liked the Mobil better but i just dont wanna change the oil more than i have to.
11-15-2009, 07:58 AM
#27
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He I have tried this oil. My thoughts are THE SAME!!! It is cheaper right now because it is new but my thought is that it will be right around Mobile 1 eventruley. My buddy has done the change also from Mobile 1 to this oil and it he said he seen no change.
11-15-2009, 09:04 AM
#28
Under construction
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Their "fully synthetic" formula is just a grpIII, no better than most of the Mobil One products. Very overpriced for what you get. It compares to the Amsoil XL non synthetic line. I would run Pennzoil Platinum any day over this stuff for the price.
For the price, why not get a real grp V true ester synthetic like Redline instead of another oil that fades into mediocrity like the rest?
I'm not trying to be negative but it's just another giant advertising scheme for an overpriced average oil.
For the price, why not get a real grp V true ester synthetic like Redline instead of another oil that fades into mediocrity like the rest?
I'm not trying to be negative but it's just another giant advertising scheme for an overpriced average oil.
11-15-2009, 11:33 AM
#29
Safety Car
I use Penzoil Platinum after using M1 and then Amsoil for years. M1 has gotten worse than PP and other brands of Synthetics out there since they changed their formulation several years ago. On all the Blackstone lab tests on many cars, M1 now shows higher wear of metals than other oils, and also people have start up clatter with M1 compared to other oils. PP is the best store bought oil you can get right now and for the $20 bucks at Walmart for a 5 quart jug, well worth it.
I tried Castrol Edge when it was real expensive once, and liked it. I just didn't want to spend that much more for it anymore, reason why I stopped using Amsoil when PP does perfectly good.
www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to see all the test results and learn a ton about different oils.
I tried Castrol Edge when it was real expensive once, and liked it. I just didn't want to spend that much more for it anymore, reason why I stopped using Amsoil when PP does perfectly good.
www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to see all the test results and learn a ton about different oils.
11-15-2009, 12:10 PM
#30
Team Owner
I use Penzoil Platinum after using M1 and then Amsoil for years. M1 has gotten worse than PP and other brands of Synthetics out there since they changed their formulation several years ago. On all the Blackstone lab tests on many cars, M1 now shows higher wear of metals than other oils, and also people have start up clatter with M1 compared to other oils. PP is the best store bought oil you can get right now and for the $20 bucks at Walmart for a 5 quart jug, well worth it.
I tried Castrol Edge when it was real expensive once, and liked it. I just didn't want to spend that much more for it anymore, reason why I stopped using Amsoil when PP does perfectly good.
www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to see all the test results and learn a ton about different oils.
I tried Castrol Edge when it was real expensive once, and liked it. I just didn't want to spend that much more for it anymore, reason why I stopped using Amsoil when PP does perfectly good.
www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to see all the test results and learn a ton about different oils.
Of course everyone is on the PP bandwagon. I get attacked for running the best of the best, Redline because it costs too much. PP is no better than Mobil One. Don't fall for the "flavor of the month" over there. One day it will be Mobil One again and PP will be the devil.
As I've preached you absolutely cannot use UOAs and as means to determine engine wear. It doesn't work. Mobil One will always show high iron. This is due to it's chemical properties, not wear.
Redline like I use which provides the best wear protection of anything out there will show super high wear numbers for the first 3 changes because it cleans oxidation which shows up as wear metal in a UOA.
Then there's the case of my GN. I had two engines wear themselves out with the oil coming out sparkly for about 5 oil changes. I UOA'd every one of them and the UOA picked up nothing. When torn apart they looked worse than anything I've seen.
UOAs only pick up paticles in the 5 micron or smaller range. The true wear causing particles are in the 10 micron or larger range. They have no use other than determining oil life and a coolant leak. Useless otherwise.
Unfortunately bitog is still stuck in the stone age using UOAs to determine engine wear. The only way to determine wear is a teardown.
So I will leave it with PP, Mobile One, Castrol are all ok oils but they fall into mediority. Some Amsoil like their ACD and SSO are great oils. Redline is in a class of it's own. I figure if you're going to spend the money on a synthetic, then get a true synthetic with an ester base stock and the most robust add pack of anything out there which would be Redline. Why play around with the small stuff.
11-15-2009, 12:19 PM
#31
Safety Car
Blackstone labs reports beg to differ vs M1 and PP. I don't trust everything on what people say, but lab reports also don't lie.
As long as you change your oil every 3-5k with any synthetic or dino based oil, you will be fine.
As long as you change your oil every 3-5k with any synthetic or dino based oil, you will be fine.
You've got to watch bobistheoilguy. Most of the knowledgeable people have left and all that's left is the internet experts. Once you get to reading some of their posts you realize they have never torn down an engine and all their knowledge is just repeating info they've read. I'm currently banned for a month for correcting the extremely poor information over there. IMO, bitog has fallen from greatness with many engineers, racers, etc, to a group of loud mouth nobodies. However, they will give advice and act as if they know everything about oil.
Of course everyone is on the PP bandwagon. I get attacked for running the best of the best, Redline because it costs too much. PP is no better than Mobil One. Don't fall for the "flavor of the month" over there. One day it will be Mobil One again and PP will be the devil.
As I've preached you absolutely cannot use UOAs and as means to determine engine wear. It doesn't work. Mobil One will always show high iron. This is due to it's chemical properties, not wear.
Redline like I use which provides the best wear protection of anything out there will show super high wear numbers for the first 3 changes because it cleans oxidation which shows up as wear metal in a UOA.
Then there's the case of my GN. I had two engines wear themselves out with the oil coming out sparkly for about 5 oil changes. I UOA'd every one of them and the UOA picked up nothing. When torn apart they looked worse than anything I've seen.
UOAs only pick up paticles in the 5 micron or smaller range. The true wear causing particles are in the 10 micron or larger range. They have no use other than determining oil life and a coolant leak. Useless otherwise.
Unfortunately bitog is still stuck in the stone age using UOAs to determine engine wear. The only way to determine wear is a teardown.
So I will leave it with PP, Mobile One, Castrol are all ok oils but they fall into mediority. Some Amsoil like their ACD and SSO are great oils. Redline is in a class of it's own. I figure if you're going to spend the money on a synthetic, then get a true synthetic with an ester base stock and the most robust add pack of anything out there which would be Redline. Why play around with the small stuff.
Of course everyone is on the PP bandwagon. I get attacked for running the best of the best, Redline because it costs too much. PP is no better than Mobil One. Don't fall for the "flavor of the month" over there. One day it will be Mobil One again and PP will be the devil.
As I've preached you absolutely cannot use UOAs and as means to determine engine wear. It doesn't work. Mobil One will always show high iron. This is due to it's chemical properties, not wear.
Redline like I use which provides the best wear protection of anything out there will show super high wear numbers for the first 3 changes because it cleans oxidation which shows up as wear metal in a UOA.
Then there's the case of my GN. I had two engines wear themselves out with the oil coming out sparkly for about 5 oil changes. I UOA'd every one of them and the UOA picked up nothing. When torn apart they looked worse than anything I've seen.
UOAs only pick up paticles in the 5 micron or smaller range. The true wear causing particles are in the 10 micron or larger range. They have no use other than determining oil life and a coolant leak. Useless otherwise.
Unfortunately bitog is still stuck in the stone age using UOAs to determine engine wear. The only way to determine wear is a teardown.
So I will leave it with PP, Mobile One, Castrol are all ok oils but they fall into mediority. Some Amsoil like their ACD and SSO are great oils. Redline is in a class of it's own. I figure if you're going to spend the money on a synthetic, then get a true synthetic with an ester base stock and the most robust add pack of anything out there which would be Redline. Why play around with the small stuff.
11-15-2009, 12:32 PM
#32
Team Owner
Blackstone labs is one of the cheaper places. Lab reports DO lie. Read my post again. Yes, you can compare "wear metals" between different oils but you're only comparing particles in the 5 micron or smaller range. When an engine starts shedding larger amounts of metals, they're larger than 5 microns. In other words the lab only gives you a very small part of the pictures. Re-read what I said about my GN teardowns. The UOAs did not pick up on anything even though the oil was sparkly. This is because my wear was greater than 5 microns.
Basing which oil you choose on a couple parts per million of wear metals in the <5 micron range is no way to choose an oil.
Keep in mind, any type of chemical cleaning shows up as wear metals.
I've also seen guys with bad Blackstone reports tear an engine down and it looked immaculate.
Use the lab to determine how much life is left in the oil, or how well your air filter is filtering , or to detect a coolant leak, or to see if it's shearing. But if it were mine I wouldn't even ask for wear metals on the report.
You're right, anything changed at 3-5K will be more than fine but that's not the point here.
Look at the important points of the oil like HTHS, basestock, additive package, viscosity and base your decision on that, not what a bunch of nobodies tell you or a couple ppm in a size range that's not important.
11-15-2009, 12:49 PM
#34
Team Owner
Some Autozones carry Redline but for the most part you'll have to order it. I can find it for $10/quart shipped at Jegs. Pricey, yes, but you can run it for extended drain intervals and you can beat the hell out of it and it won't shear or change viscosity. It's one of the few that you can take on a track day and not have to change it out afterwards. There's an old thread on bitog from some of the very knowledgeable people from a couple years ago I'll look up if I can do that while banned and post the results.
I'm tempted to have some shipped to you for free just so you can try it and report back. Seriously, if you want to give it a fair review on here.
Here's that old thread. Very good reading if you have the time.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1118409
11-16-2009, 02:03 PM
#38
Team Owner
