White Cold Cathode License Plate How-To!!!! 3G Garage #G-070
#121
Originally Posted by dwest1023
I have thenew super white 1 watts from tk toyz. I think they work better than what you guys are doing, and they will last the life of the car. Easier to install and no mod.
These look exactly like the Lexus, you can't tell the difference. I put them on all my cars. Really looks great on our RL. Install time is only 10 min.
These look exactly like the Lexus, you can't tell the difference. I put them on all my cars. Really looks great on our RL. Install time is only 10 min.
I've been reading a lot of posts on the forum about changing the to leds on the license plate. A lot of people have said their lights start flickering after 6 months. I'm not sure if this applies to the 9leds or the 1 watt from tec-toys. Has anyone had experience with the lifespan of the 1 watt ones?
I have 1 watt ones sitting around and was thinking about installing them for my license plat until i heard about them blowing a lot. I am contemplating the CCFL tubes right now. It looks really simple.
#122
Originally Posted by pimpin-tl
Looks good, but I am wondering why he used two inverters? One is only needed for two bulbs and that is all you can fit in there.
#123
Originally Posted by warrior15r
I've been reading a lot of posts on the forum about changing the to leds on the license plate. A lot of people have said their lights start flickering after 6 months. I'm not sure if this applies to the 9leds or the 1 watt from tec-toys. Has anyone had experience with the lifespan of the 1 watt ones?
I have 1 watt ones sitting around and was thinking about installing them for my license plat until i heard about them blowing a lot. I am contemplating the CCFL tubes right now. It looks really simple.
I have 1 watt ones sitting around and was thinking about installing them for my license plat until i heard about them blowing a lot. I am contemplating the CCFL tubes right now. It looks really simple.
#124
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by warrior15r
I've been reading a lot of posts on the forum about changing the to leds on the license plate. A lot of people have said their lights start flickering after 6 months. I'm not sure if this applies to the 9leds or the 1 watt from tec-toys. Has anyone had experience with the lifespan of the 1 watt ones?
I have 1 watt ones sitting around and was thinking about installing them for my license plat until i heard about them blowing a lot. I am contemplating the CCFL tubes right now. It looks really simple.
I have 1 watt ones sitting around and was thinking about installing them for my license plat until i heard about them blowing a lot. I am contemplating the CCFL tubes right now. It looks really simple.
The new 1 watts from tec toys will last the the life of the car. You will have more trouble with the CCFL. The 1 watts will never flicker, its not the same type of LED others have used. The 1 watts make the tag llight look they way it suppose to, and not like a light for a billboard that the CCFL does.
#125
Safety Car
Thread Starter
dwest, please do not degrade the CCFL when you haven't tried them. So far Krakers and mine have been solid since they been on the car. Even with all the cold temps (20 degrees we have had). I think Kraker has had his for 6 months on his now or even more?
LED's can go bad, more often than not. I see a ton of traffic signals that were replaced with LEDs flickering these days. LEDs are not the best nor the most reliable route either.
LED's are only directional. They shine in one direction only and will not spread the light unless some are angled. CCFL are more of a spread so it gets the light everywhere like the stock lights do but just much brighter.
LED's can go bad, more often than not. I see a ton of traffic signals that were replaced with LEDs flickering these days. LEDs are not the best nor the most reliable route either.
LED's are only directional. They shine in one direction only and will not spread the light unless some are angled. CCFL are more of a spread so it gets the light everywhere like the stock lights do but just much brighter.
#127
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And I have them in my trunk too... Now they will be able to search all luggage to find the contraband.
I think that I would rather have the cops be able to read my plate than have no lights or 2 leds flickering.
I did look into the 1 Watt LEDs because they are different... But still, I had issues with people saying theirs are better without trying.
I will let everyone know as soon as one of bulbs go bad.
I think that I would rather have the cops be able to read my plate than have no lights or 2 leds flickering.
I did look into the 1 Watt LEDs because they are different... But still, I had issues with people saying theirs are better without trying.
I will let everyone know as soon as one of bulbs go bad.
#129
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I was in houston this weekend and picked up 3 more sets of lights. I spliced into the dome lights GRY/BLU and WHT wires and ran it down thru the center console. The lights will turn on with the On switch or when the door are open.
Im going to hook up a pair under the each of the seats and under the dash. Hopefully the wiring can handle the pull of 3 or 4 inverters... If I pop a fuse Ill put a relay in.
Expect pictures tonight or tomorrow.
I
Im going to hook up a pair under the each of the seats and under the dash. Hopefully the wiring can handle the pull of 3 or 4 inverters... If I pop a fuse Ill put a relay in.
Expect pictures tonight or tomorrow.
I
#131
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Okay I found out that three inverters draw 1.5 amps at 11.25 volts and 1.1 amps at 11.5 V. So I think it will be less once its hooked into my car that has 12+ volts.
The fuse that powers everything is a 7.5 amp.. So I think it will be okay... I'll get them installed tomorrow...
The fuse that powers everything is a 7.5 amp.. So I think it will be okay... I'll get them installed tomorrow...
#132
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Front:
Rear:
Under the drivers seat:
I burnt the material under the seat to wrap tie wraps around.
Glove box:
Yeah, I was going to hook up a relay in so that I didn't have to worry about the fuse. Then I realized that the cigarette lighter plug was turned on with the key. Not really what I wanted.
I did attach it in the glove box incase there was a problem.. All I would have to do is splice into it there. It was going to work so well too...
http://people.cs.tamu.edu/mlw8723/Car2/
So now I have 8 inverters and 12 tubes in my car... I think the word overkill comes to my mind.
Rear:
Under the drivers seat:
I burnt the material under the seat to wrap tie wraps around.
Glove box:
Yeah, I was going to hook up a relay in so that I didn't have to worry about the fuse. Then I realized that the cigarette lighter plug was turned on with the key. Not really what I wanted.
I did attach it in the glove box incase there was a problem.. All I would have to do is splice into it there. It was going to work so well too...
http://people.cs.tamu.edu/mlw8723/Car2/
So now I have 8 inverters and 12 tubes in my car... I think the word overkill comes to my mind.
#136
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Just an FYI my big ass broke the CC Tube under the seat (the back of the drivers seat). So if you are going to copy me find a better location to mount the lights. I also broke the one illuminating my drivers footwell. The 3M tape fell, and in a rush to put it back I pushed on it way too hard and broke it.
Also, my License plate lights are going strong its been 11 months or so.
Also, my License plate lights are going strong its been 11 months or so.
#137
Pimpin' Ain't Easy!
Originally Posted by pimpin-tl
Guys, here is the new HOW-TO if you would like to replace those yellow bulbs on your license plate with a cold cathode bulbs. This is a very cheap mod. The bulbs only cost $7.29 from the link on the how-to. I did this so others would not be scared to do this mod. I notice not to many have done it and its really simple and its worth it. Look at the pictures!
I didn't have a stock car to show a picture of to compare, but just by the light on the bumper and ground I think you guys can figure out how bright it is and white!
I would also like to thank Kracker for the idea and his help last night to finish up this project. I will soon replace the interior floorboard lights with this type of lighting and the trunk light.
http://www.sah2o.com/pimpin/howto/cathodeTLhowto.htm
Enjoy guys! Hope it was worth the trouble making this page for all you! I am sure this willl work on the RL and other Acura models.
Here is a picture of what they look like below. See the link above for more pics.
I didn't have a stock car to show a picture of to compare, but just by the light on the bumper and ground I think you guys can figure out how bright it is and white!
I would also like to thank Kracker for the idea and his help last night to finish up this project. I will soon replace the interior floorboard lights with this type of lighting and the trunk light.
http://www.sah2o.com/pimpin/howto/cathodeTLhowto.htm
Enjoy guys! Hope it was worth the trouble making this page for all you! I am sure this willl work on the RL and other Acura models.
Here is a picture of what they look like below. See the link above for more pics.
#142
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I replaced rear LEDs two times before I finally gave up... Some of the bulbs just died, and others flickered.. The yellow original bulbs were better then the LEDs... Keep your fingers crossed and hope they dont die.
Next time you get a chance check out your LEDs...
Next time you get a chance check out your LEDs...
#143
FOR SALE - BM
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Originally Posted by Kracker
I replaced rear LEDs two times before I finally gave up... Some of the bulbs just died, and others flickered.. The yellow original bulbs were better then the LEDs... Keep your fingers crossed and hope they dont die.
Next time you get a chance check out your LEDs...
Next time you get a chance check out your LEDs...
#144
Pro
yeah those led's suck...i didn't notice mine were flickering untill i came back from a fishing trip...and unlocked my door...and saw my lights flicker....ill prolly do this mod this weekend, along with my black out headlights....
#145
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I really think that my favorite cold cathode use is as a trunk light. Being able to see inside your trunk is great. I put lights in my G/F Toyota. She really likes its them.
Get an extra pair, and an spare inverter (2 bux) to add as a backup for you license plate incase one burns out.
http://www.directron.com/ccflinverter.html
Get an extra pair, and an spare inverter (2 bux) to add as a backup for you license plate incase one burns out.
http://www.directron.com/ccflinverter.html
#150
Pro
its pretty self explainatory...i didn't use the how to guide....i even left the factory license plate light cover on....i just put 2 bulbs running across the len's, and use tin foil to keep the light directed to the lens'.
#151
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Guys I know, the server had a hardware failure. So I am leaving that ISP to a nother. They said it might be weeks before its back online. They will be online soon. Waiting for DNS to fix itself.
#152
Down for a photoshoot?
iTrader: (4)
hey guys ... i tried to install the cold cathode lights from post number one; however, they're not working for some reason ... i hooked up the leds to the inverter which leads to black and red wires to the corresponding black and red wires from the right side license plate lights ... however they're not lighting up at all ... I have no idea what to do now @___@
as for the bulbs themselves, are the filaments or w/e they are, supposed to shake or are they supposed to be fixed? I used wire taps so they're just hanging on inside my trunk for now ... SOMEONE PLEASE ADVISE! PLEEEASEEE!!!
as for the bulbs themselves, are the filaments or w/e they are, supposed to shake or are they supposed to be fixed? I used wire taps so they're just hanging on inside my trunk for now ... SOMEONE PLEASE ADVISE! PLEEEASEEE!!!
#156
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deke, this is the best way on the thread. I would suggest getting two sets of tubes, and 1 extra inverter. That way you can add trunk lights too...
Originally Posted by tuoncan
Here is my way...
#157
King of NYC
iTrader: (6)
OK I just completed this mod a few days ago and I have to say it ROCKS!!! It was very easy since I've taken my trunklid apart a few times and I was well prepared with all the stuff I needed at my fingertips. I was done in just over 1 hr.
A few things I'll note here;
1)I had installed a back-up camera a couple weeks ago. I read there would be no problems for this. The 2 screws WERE definitely right smack in the way for me. I had to either drill 2 new holes for the camera or tie the 2 cathode tubes real close and offset them slightly. I decided to do the latter, I don't need any more holes into my sheetmetal. I shaved one of the clear square sides on the ends of the cathode tubes with a dremel and tied the tubes with complete contact and it worked out.
2) Another thing to note is 3M double-sided tape is the best freakin stuff!!! Holds anything really well. I have been using it in many places for many mods. Must-have in your toolbox.
3)I was going to use the original lenses from the license plate lights and shave them down. I thought that would be the best in terms of protection and total stock appearance. But I decided the lens was a bit too frosted for me and the area of light transmission would be smaller versus me making my own window out of clear plastic. I made the lenses just as shown in the DIY. I feared the possibilty of someone poking the lens when grabbing the trunk to open it or maybe water getting in at a carwash. I used "Goop" and "Monster tape" (love both of that stuff!) and sealed it off real well. With the light pressed up against it, it's not going to get poked into unless someone really kicks it in. Looks safe enough.
4)Foil tape was $8 at Home Depot. Said screw it and used aluminum foil instead. Told you I was a cheapskate. Kept this whole mod under $10!! LOL!
I know there was a little debate between Kennedy and pimpin-tl on whether this was better or LEDs. I have the rest of my car LEDd out and I know Kennedy does his reseach well and knows his stuff. Usually I side with him, he's usually right. I must say though I really think the cold-cathode wins hands down. (no offense Kennedy, just my opinion.) I was hoping it wouldn't look like a cheap flourescent light. Turned out better than that. The light is just bright, white, nice and even. Gets rid of that ugly yellow look and the car looks fresh and new. I can totally revert to stock in 20 minutes if I wanted to. Quality LEDs are overpriced, and then there's no real warranty anyways. I can replace these for $9 if something goes wrong. Highly recommended, glad I did it.
A few things I'll note here;
1)I had installed a back-up camera a couple weeks ago. I read there would be no problems for this. The 2 screws WERE definitely right smack in the way for me. I had to either drill 2 new holes for the camera or tie the 2 cathode tubes real close and offset them slightly. I decided to do the latter, I don't need any more holes into my sheetmetal. I shaved one of the clear square sides on the ends of the cathode tubes with a dremel and tied the tubes with complete contact and it worked out.
2) Another thing to note is 3M double-sided tape is the best freakin stuff!!! Holds anything really well. I have been using it in many places for many mods. Must-have in your toolbox.
3)I was going to use the original lenses from the license plate lights and shave them down. I thought that would be the best in terms of protection and total stock appearance. But I decided the lens was a bit too frosted for me and the area of light transmission would be smaller versus me making my own window out of clear plastic. I made the lenses just as shown in the DIY. I feared the possibilty of someone poking the lens when grabbing the trunk to open it or maybe water getting in at a carwash. I used "Goop" and "Monster tape" (love both of that stuff!) and sealed it off real well. With the light pressed up against it, it's not going to get poked into unless someone really kicks it in. Looks safe enough.
4)Foil tape was $8 at Home Depot. Said screw it and used aluminum foil instead. Told you I was a cheapskate. Kept this whole mod under $10!! LOL!
I know there was a little debate between Kennedy and pimpin-tl on whether this was better or LEDs. I have the rest of my car LEDd out and I know Kennedy does his reseach well and knows his stuff. Usually I side with him, he's usually right. I must say though I really think the cold-cathode wins hands down. (no offense Kennedy, just my opinion.) I was hoping it wouldn't look like a cheap flourescent light. Turned out better than that. The light is just bright, white, nice and even. Gets rid of that ugly yellow look and the car looks fresh and new. I can totally revert to stock in 20 minutes if I wanted to. Quality LEDs are overpriced, and then there's no real warranty anyways. I can replace these for $9 if something goes wrong. Highly recommended, glad I did it.
#160
Three Wheelin'
i really wanna do the front footrest, but as a blue light to come on while lowbeams are on, but not ricer bright (just like the oem blue light). i also want that bright ass trunk light hehe