When your 3g engine is CAPUT! Whats next?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
When your 3g engine is CAPUT! Whats next?
Hey guys,When our 3g engines are all tapped out with miles,whats next?
Will you let all the hardwork in Mods go to waste and get another car or drop another engine in it? Just curious
Will you let all the hardwork in Mods go to waste and get another car or drop another engine in it? Just curious
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#2
AZ Community Team
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When does that happen?
mmade22 is approaching 200,000 miles and no sign of letting up as far as I know.
mmade22 is approaching 200,000 miles and no sign of letting up as far as I know.
#5
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#9
New shoes on my
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At the rate I drive at 7,000 miles per year, then I won't reach 250,000 miles until 2044, at that rate, I'm guessing I will have traded in my 3G Acura TL for a 1G Acura ZLX, the first flying car produced by Acura...lol
#10
אני עומד עם ישראל
My plan is to probably keep this car for another 5 years or so and pay myself the payment I have been making to the bank. I'd most likely dump it by 150-200k and get another car (G, CPO CTS-V, 5g TL, etc,) paid for in cash then keep that one for ~150k and do the process all over again. I actually really like my TL, if it holds up I may be compelled to keep it as long as it makes financial sense to.
I don't see these engines failing before 250k if properly maintained. I'd be more concerned with the electronics (especially navi) and transmissions being the weakest links.
I don't see these engines failing before 250k if properly maintained. I'd be more concerned with the electronics (especially navi) and transmissions being the weakest links.
#12
the car itself is good past 300 based on gen2 megamod with 350,000 miles and still daily driver long drives for work,, and track days!~
kris pulled the motor at 200 (to drop in cl-s with 6speed) and inside the cylinder walls still had the factory honing/crosshatch marks..virtually no wear at 200
He ran dino for 100, then synthetic for next 100 at 15kmile interval changes,, with analysis at 7500 miles to be sure all was good
at 10 years old and 350, his car has needed a rear wheel bearing and calipers
a few other basics
These cars go and go IF you keep an eye on the oil changes and trans fluid
keep up with other fluids, brake fluid- ps steering- good fluid helps parts last,, keep it changed,
and the timing belt/water pump every 100
Run good gas and seafoam it yearly- will do wonders towards putting you in the over 150 or over 200 club...too bad its miles,, not miles per hour
So to answer the question- lets say a 6 speed car with an overrev condition and trashed the motor or a timing belt failure and massive damage...there are plenty of these cars in the auto recycler (junkyard) with good engines waiting for a new home..put a 105 timing belt service on it while its out of the car and enjoy for a few more years,,,by then some kid will buy it and be happy
kris pulled the motor at 200 (to drop in cl-s with 6speed) and inside the cylinder walls still had the factory honing/crosshatch marks..virtually no wear at 200
He ran dino for 100, then synthetic for next 100 at 15kmile interval changes,, with analysis at 7500 miles to be sure all was good
at 10 years old and 350, his car has needed a rear wheel bearing and calipers
a few other basics
These cars go and go IF you keep an eye on the oil changes and trans fluid
keep up with other fluids, brake fluid- ps steering- good fluid helps parts last,, keep it changed,
and the timing belt/water pump every 100
Run good gas and seafoam it yearly- will do wonders towards putting you in the over 150 or over 200 club...too bad its miles,, not miles per hour
So to answer the question- lets say a 6 speed car with an overrev condition and trashed the motor or a timing belt failure and massive damage...there are plenty of these cars in the auto recycler (junkyard) with good engines waiting for a new home..put a 105 timing belt service on it while its out of the car and enjoy for a few more years,,,by then some kid will buy it and be happy
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 05-22-2010 at 02:28 AM.
#13
If I even keep it for that long, I'd throw in another V6. Probably a J35 with a 6 speed.
or a LSX w/ RWD![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
but I'll keep maintaining my car and plan on getting past 200k easily (not even a 1/4 of the way there. I'm at 44,7XX). That is, if I keep it that long.
or a LSX w/ RWD
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
but I'll keep maintaining my car and plan on getting past 200k easily (not even a 1/4 of the way there. I'm at 44,7XX). That is, if I keep it that long.
#14
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
My engine at 51k suffered a wrist pin failure for cylinder # 6. It had nothing to do with my mods nor my driving. Premature failure and I ended up putting in a new short block. If you really like the car and can't afford a new car which can range from 20-40k your best option is to keep what you have and make repairs, because it sure beats making new car payments...
#15
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Bearcat is right. I will hit 200,000 miles in July (5,000 miles per month) and the car doesn't burn a drop of oil....nothing! I change the oil once a month and the oil is just as clean as it was when I changed it back in the day with 35k on the clock. The engine is the strong link in the car....I have a 6 speed and that transmission is also rock solid. I am not so sure about the older auto trans. That is the part you will need to worry about.
Electronic failure? Not to worried about that either.....Cars of today are so much better built then they were 10 years ago and they go and go as long as you take care of it and don't slack on anything that needs to be repaired. Everything in my car works like the day I got it and if it breaks, I fix it right away. That is the key to keep the car running perfect, mile after mile!
Electronic failure? Not to worried about that either.....Cars of today are so much better built then they were 10 years ago and they go and go as long as you take care of it and don't slack on anything that needs to be repaired. Everything in my car works like the day I got it and if it breaks, I fix it right away. That is the key to keep the car running perfect, mile after mile!
#18
Team Owner
I see the engine outlasting the car but for the sake of this thread, I would probably put another in it.
For what I pay per month in car payments I could install a used J32 or 35. I can rebuild my own transmissions so there's practically nothing that can cost me over $1,000 to fix and to me it's worth that to not have another payment for at least 5 years.
Of course if I had to do it, I would do it with a nice rotating assembly and more displacement.
The only thing that would get me to get rid of it is if reliability became a major issue or if it was costing close to what a new car payment would cost. I had an old $200 '87 Celica as a beater and it literally cost as much per month to keep it running including rental car costs as the TL payments cost me.
For what I pay per month in car payments I could install a used J32 or 35. I can rebuild my own transmissions so there's practically nothing that can cost me over $1,000 to fix and to me it's worth that to not have another payment for at least 5 years.
Of course if I had to do it, I would do it with a nice rotating assembly and more displacement.
The only thing that would get me to get rid of it is if reliability became a major issue or if it was costing close to what a new car payment would cost. I had an old $200 '87 Celica as a beater and it literally cost as much per month to keep it running including rental car costs as the TL payments cost me.
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
My car only has 92,000 on it. But the other day i got to thinking about all of us with 2004 and 05 tl's that have done work from head to toe on ours cars. All that money we have spent,and when that time comes and the car needs a new engine. will everyone get one or move on.
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#22
Burning Brakes
My car was paid off this past August after four years of ownership. I only have 55K miles. I plan on keeping for another 3-4yrs and probably get a new car around 120-150K miles.
#23
Safety Car
nice im at 92k miles and have piston slap.....honda wants me to pay for the tear down labor to inspect the engine to warranty it.....ill just let it blow ..... they swear its because of the intake. Id like to see how u prove the wrist pin is junk because of an intake...... anyway i just had the rack done and its pissing out of the return line do u guys have any good phone numbers from the higher ups in honda or acura i can call????
id like to file some complaints.
id like to file some complaints.
#24
Team Owner
nice im at 92k miles and have piston slap.....honda wants me to pay for the tear down labor to inspect the engine to warranty it.....ill just let it blow ..... they swear its because of the intake. Id like to see how u prove the wrist pin is junk because of an intake...... anyway i just had the rack done and its pissing out of the return line do u guys have any good phone numbers from the higher ups in honda or acura i can call????
id like to file some complaints.
id like to file some complaints.
One question though, does it go away after a minute or two once it's warm or does it do this all the time and get worse when hot?
#26
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I have an '04 5AT that runs perfectly, never had any trouble and I have 102K miles on it now. I haven't even changed my brake pads yet.
But I have some maintenance coming up soon that's going to cost $2K+: the timing belt & water pump, spark plugs, new tires, and eventually new pads/brakes.
I pay cash for my cars, and drive 30K miles a year now (all highway miles). My car looks new inside and out, and I just love this car.
I was wondering if I should trade it in while it still has some value and buy a new car rather than putting more money into this one. But if I can keep it going like you say for another 100K it's well worth it!
Hopefully by then the next gen. TL will be something I want to buy.
But I have some maintenance coming up soon that's going to cost $2K+: the timing belt & water pump, spark plugs, new tires, and eventually new pads/brakes.
I pay cash for my cars, and drive 30K miles a year now (all highway miles). My car looks new inside and out, and I just love this car.
![Love](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/love.gif)
Hopefully by then the next gen. TL will be something I want to buy.
#27
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I'll be dropping a new engine in mine as well as buying a S2000 for a weekend crusier
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#28
Safety Car
yea like 5 mins and its gone..... nah never came close to hydro locking.......i dont even take the junk out in the rain i have a lexus to do that with. im just gonna drive it til it blows....i dont even care for it anymore im so sick of the nonsense from the dealer n just driving it has become an inconvenience.... i may just be getting older and i want a car i can start and have it start every single time the same exact way. not "oh shit did u hear, it cranked one more time than last????"
#29
אני עומד עם ישראל
I have an '04 5AT that runs perfectly, never had any trouble and I have 102K miles on it now. I haven't even changed my brake pads yet.
But I have some maintenance coming up soon that's going to cost $2K+: the timing belt & water pump, spark plugs, new tires, and eventually new pads/brakes.
I pay cash for my cars, and drive 30K miles a year now (all highway miles). My car looks new inside and out, and I just love this car.
I was wondering if I should trade it in while it still has some value and buy a new car rather than putting more money into this one. But if I can keep it going like you say for another 100K it's well worth it!
Hopefully by then the next gen. TL will be something I want to buy.
But I have some maintenance coming up soon that's going to cost $2K+: the timing belt & water pump, spark plugs, new tires, and eventually new pads/brakes.
I pay cash for my cars, and drive 30K miles a year now (all highway miles). My car looks new inside and out, and I just love this car.
![Love](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/love.gif)
Hopefully by then the next gen. TL will be something I want to buy.
#31
Middle Finger anyone?
iTrader: (9)
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For me, I want to keep this car forever. If the engine ever blows, and I mean BLOWS, like leaking coolant, white and purple smoke out the tailpipe, irregular idle blows, then I would swap the engine. Let's face it. My car will probably be long paid off and it'll be 2030 by then, but I already have plans for it when it goes. I want to take some welding classes and convert the bitch to AWD and throw a TT SHO motor in it. By then someone else will most likely have already done it.
#32
As trancemission once told me on his, keepin' it forever.
Seriously, if it's paid off, I'll just buy another car if I ever get that worried about a Honda engine.
Seriously, if it's paid off, I'll just buy another car if I ever get that worried about a Honda engine.
#35
10th Gear
Did a search for "new engine" and came across this thread... I was trying to price a new engine in the case that I ever had to change it.
Not that I'm overly worried. I have an '05 6MT with 172k. I bought it 18 months ago w/ 148k miles and it still runs smooth as all...
Recently though I had to drop $500 for a new oil pan, $700 for tires and $300 for breaks and rotors ( I still needs a new Navi control unit and updated DVD disc ~ $350 )
With all that cash being put in my car, I'm wondering what's the worst thing I'd need to pay to replace.
... so sorry if this has been covered many times before, but
**how much would a standard engine swap cost at the dealership/local shop?**
Not that I'm overly worried. I have an '05 6MT with 172k. I bought it 18 months ago w/ 148k miles and it still runs smooth as all...
Recently though I had to drop $500 for a new oil pan, $700 for tires and $300 for breaks and rotors ( I still needs a new Navi control unit and updated DVD disc ~ $350 )
With all that cash being put in my car, I'm wondering what's the worst thing I'd need to pay to replace.
... so sorry if this has been covered many times before, but
**how much would a standard engine swap cost at the dealership/local shop?**
#39
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
If the engine runs out of miles below 150k (unlikely), I'd put a new motor in it without a doubt. I have loved this car since the day I saw it on the lot in 2004 and immediately told myself I must have it. To this day I still utterly adore the looks of the vehicle and the drive itself is just so well balanced for a daily driver.
Then again I put Redline D4 in, swapped out 3rd/4th gear oil pressure switches, etc. etc. and the electrical system is pretty buttoned up from what I hear, so not worried about much else major failing anytime soon.
If it runs to 200k+ then I would buy a new car. This car was my must-have daily driver. I would probably flip over to driving a cheaper daily driver (cannibalize my wife's Civic, maybe), and buy one of my must-have toy cars for summer driving. There are a lot of really cool toy cars for 20-40k with light used mileage on them.
Then again I put Redline D4 in, swapped out 3rd/4th gear oil pressure switches, etc. etc. and the electrical system is pretty buttoned up from what I hear, so not worried about much else major failing anytime soon.
If it runs to 200k+ then I would buy a new car. This car was my must-have daily driver. I would probably flip over to driving a cheaper daily driver (cannibalize my wife's Civic, maybe), and buy one of my must-have toy cars for summer driving. There are a lot of really cool toy cars for 20-40k with light used mileage on them.
#40
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
I'd replace the engine or do a LS7 swap. The exterior of the car still looks better than 99% of the cars on the road including the IS series, the G series, and the Z series (all of there old/new competitors). Only thing the TL lacks behind is the HP which most Japanese cars do minus Nissan/Infiniti.