austin2334

I think you guys should read this....The Engine Oil Bible. This tells it all. Let me know what you think.

I hate cars

Very nice article. I'm still going to do my 3K synthetic changes if for no other reason than I will sleep better at night.

It did bring up a couple good points, one of which is why I don't let anyone change my oil. I always fill the filter up with oil before I put it on. I don't want the engine idling for even a couple seconds with no oil pressure. When I start mine after a change, the oil light goes off instantly where the one time I forgot it stayed on for a second or two. Your typical mechanic simply won't fill the filter no matter how many times you tell him to.

Mine and my dad's GNs have a preluber and it has paid off big time. I have 30psi pressure before I ever turn the engine over. On my dad's old production motor (stock bottom end) it ran 10.50s for 20K miles and the rods and mains looked new still. If I had the extra money, the TL would have one too.

mark-e-mark

I used Amsoil in an '88 Itegra that I sold with 130k on the odo. Have it in my Mustang with 90k miles. I follow their recommended changes of 1 year or 25k miles when using their filter and full synthetic. Been very happy with Amsoil produts. Anyone else use it?

01tl4tl

the 30 versus 20 oil gives better protection to parts that slam together at high speeds
Acura only went 0-20 to fool the govt standards- not because its better for you in the long run

TL-CrAzIe-05

Great Info!!! Thanks.

austin2334

Nice

austin2334

Also, Have you guys heard anything about the "FilterMag"? It just attaches to the oil filter and it picks up bits of metal that the filter doesn't pick up. It seems like it would be good protection. It's cheap and simple. Why not ya know... This is the website... Check out the video clip also. Let me know.

subinf

^ - I've only seen those used on drag/race cars, probably don't need it for regular driving.

I hate cars

It's still a very good idea in a street motor. You figure everytime you spin the motor to redline you're most likely bypassing or partially bypassing the oil filter it's a good idea to have metals out of the oil. Of course you have copper, lead, babbit, aluminum, iron, etc floating around and only a couple of those will stick to the magnet. I run a magnetic drain plug in the GN and you would be scared to see what it looks like at oil change time.

RAMEX

Thanks 10tl4tl
I could not have said it better myself

DMZ

Ahh yes ..... Buick Grand National, the car that'll pass anything on the road except a gas station !!

I hate cars

It's the only car I've owned where I can get 27mpg on the freeway and 6mpg around town. At over $5 a gallon I only drive it once every few months. Can't make myself drive it easy with 620lbs of torque on tap hence the 6mpg around town.

hawa

has any body heard of Schaeffer's Oil? I've been using their 5W-20 Synthetic Blend with moly for the last 34000 miles. Their sales walked in our office and tried to sell their oil, so we bought it at a large quantity. Even so, I still pay like $3 a quart for the oil. Anyway, I have finally finished my stock, and i am thinking of changing to Castral Synthetic. Hope it's not too late to change to a name brand oil.

o's n nattyboh

sorry to go off topic a bit.

but, Question?

i have about 9500 miles on my car and just got a B1 service about 180 miles ago. as i'm reading about the positives of synthetic. i'm considering changing to synthetic, but should i get an engine flush before i do the change? i don't want to deal with any worries of seal leaks and such. is it too late to change too?

thanks in advance.

s0leheir

Hello:

I just did a oil change and tranny flush. I have been using Castrol Syntec for the last 10,000 miles w/ OEM honda filter. I just tried Royal Purple 5w-30 for the first time also with a OEM honda oil filter and I can notice a increase in performance..but that might also be because of the tranny flush. Anyway, alot of people have @ my shop use Royal Purple and have had no complaints so far.

zoostation

iTrader: (1)

Can I switch from regular crude to synthetic with 35k on the car?

ChucksCL-S

224,000 on my '00 TL. It does not burn or use any oil at all still! Runs perfectly. Used either Amsoil or Mobil 1 the whole time changed every 8K miles from day one.

QuickRick

Hey guys,

What does Ester based oil mean to any of you. Do you know what an olefin based oil is?
How is the "best oil" made and from what?

QuickRick

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Royal Purple!!!!! Just switched from Mobil1 to RP

fsttyms1

Not true. If your unsure have the oil tested.my oil never had any abnormal contaminants. I started out my TL on standard oil running 8k intervals, having it tested every other or so to see how its doing. Then at teh 100k mark switched to syn. I started out at 10k intervals and even did a few 15k intervals. at 210k when i did my manual conversion, that motor ran better than it did when new, and still had the original cross hatching in the cylinders It easily would have gone 400k. I would buy the extended guard filters and swap them out ever 5-7500 miles depending on which interval i would go with (10 or 15k)

3K oil changes is such a waste and has been brainwashed into people. Honda built the motor and designed the MID. Dont you think they know whats good for the motor? they built the thing.


And to those asking if and when they can switch, you can switch when ever you want. You dont have to do any thing special.

I hate cars

Brainwashed? I've torn the motor down four times in my other car for "inspection" and once for a failure. Still on stock internals so I'm a little paranoid pushing 2.5 times the factory power... Every measurement was written down to the nearest .0001" and rechecked at teardown. I've seen first hand what contamination and dilution will do. I'm not interested in anyone's cut and paste internet theories.

For the TL, maybe I'm paranoid. It is the first non-performance car I've owned. It sees lots of freeway miles and could probably get away with 15K oil changes. I don't doubt that I'm a little obsessive when it comes to oil changes and I doubt anyone is going to see any negative effects from 15K synthetic intervals in less than 100K miles. It's all about peace of mind. Cars hate me and if I leave any excuse to fail, it's going to fail.

I just ordered Amsoil 5-30 synthetic and their S2K filter. Once it comes in I will change it with ~2,500 on the last Mobil-1/K&N change. I don't mind doing an early oil change once in a while just to flush some of the crap out. The extra money is well worth it just for my peace of mind. I'll probably take the Amsoil to a full 7K just because the oil is rated to go over 30K and the filter is much bigger.

A lot of the old 3K oil change intervals were for carbureted cars that had much, much more fuel contamination and inferior oil. I do it every 500-1K on the GN but it has more blowby, a turbo beating the oil up, 83lb/hr injectors that like to dump fuel, and I run dino oil.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Cut and paste theories? He's speaking from first hand experience

DMZ

And for cars that didn't have computer controlled ignition.

S PAW 1

X2
This is an Acura website, not Buick!
AND IT'S 2007!

lusid

Question about 5w or 10w, I live in MN, where the winters get REAL cold, so is it still recommended I use 5w instead?

S PAW 1

It makes no difference where you live, 5W-20 is the oil that Acura built the engine to use.

I hate cars

So am I.

I hate cars

And your point is? Last time I checked they were both internal combustion engines. You might be able to get away with more mistakes in the TL because it has no power. Screw it up in the Buick and you'll probably hurt the motor. In other words if it's good enough for the Buick, it's more than good enough for the TL.

calgary2800

I just did a oil change with Penzoil Plantium and have driven 500 miles on it. So far I am let down, I feel the power is not as good as when I had Castrol Syntec in it. I only went with PP because its was 5 bucks cheaper than the Syntec at wal-mart.

Next change I'm back to Castrol Syntec or might try Royal Purple.

F23A4

I have not changed the oil in my Accord yet but, I did use Royal Purple in my Maxima and the motor seem to run smoother after the switch from Mobil1.

fsttyms1

But the thing is we arent talking about a heavily modified buick. We are talking the normal street car/ TL

I hate cars

I understand your point. Just figured if it survives with the turbo whipping and superheating the oil and holds up to the pressures of over 100hp per cylinder then it will survive fine in the TL. I understand the differences too. The Acura has closer tolerances, makes less power, and goes longer between oil changes which would change things a bit.

BEAR-AvHistory

Just to muddy the waters & get a different view on the change interval my BMW's computer & owners manual says every 15,000 miles or once a year which ever comes first.

Factory fill & recommended re-fill is Castrol synthetic.

All changes & filters up to 50,000 miles are freebies at the dealer. If you want to go more often they will still do the service for free.

I hate cars

I can't speak for the new BMWs but my friend's 2001 3 series has a HUGE take apart oil filter. If the new ones have this along with TRUE synthetic oil, I could see how they might go that far.

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

01tl04's info is correct if any of u are wondering. the recommended 5-20 is more "watery" then 5-30 so it is actually better for starting the engine since it has a lower viscosity and gives better mileage, but is worse for the engine in terms of wear ESPECIALLY in high heat areas like AZ, TX or socal during the summers. for long commutes in hot weather 5-30 is a lot better imo and vice versa for 5-20. a 5-30 will eventually shear to something clost to a 5-20 anyway.

the best filters are probably mobil 1 and purolator if u wanna spend the money. if u use the stock honda filters, which are good too, get the old ones not the newer paper ones made by fram. i forget what the model number is but there is an a01 and a02 model. i'm too lazy to look.

yea, the new blend of mobil 1 is legally allowed to state that it is a full sythetic but it really is not, as previously stated in this thread. that does not mean that it is not one of the best oils on the market, because it still is, what upsets ppl that know about oil is that they still charge a high ass price for the new stuff as they did previously. pennzoil platinum is probably one of the best synthetics on the market right now.

the honda stock oil fill is closely replicated by the old halvoline. i dunno if the current halvoline is the same stuff as it was back on 04.

the facts are, synthetics are proven to be better protection under extreme heat (FI cars)or load conditions (u pull trailers with your F-150) and/or really high mileage between oil changes (high mileage between oil changes as in you would actually need to change out your filter in between oil changes). for a regular commuter car, regular dino oil is just fine as long as u change it out regularly which most ppl do.

hawa

I am using Fram Tough Guard oil filter, donno if it's good. Well, i change my oil every 3k~5k. Guess it is okay.

zoostation

iTrader: (1)

I want to change my oil today. I bought the car with 31k miles and it now has around 35k. I have no idea what kind of oil the previous owner used.

question #1 Will it harm the engine to replace my oil with mobil1 synthetic?

question #2 What weight oil should I use?

question #3 How much oil do our TL's require?

cristphoto

1: no
2: 5-20
3: 4.5 quarts