What type of coolant should i use??
#1
What type of coolant should i use??
The other day i open up the hood and saw that the coolant fluid was low and i wanted to just add some water to it but i thought i should ask this question first if that is a wise thing to do?
what type of coolant should i use or is it all the same?
thanks
what type of coolant should i use or is it all the same?
thanks
#4
Look Mean, Play Nice
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Double True!
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Honda coolant only. Get it from your local Honda or Acura dealer. Trust me on this one.
You can do a search to find out about all the horrible effects of silicate coolant on your engine but even "universal" silicate-free coolant can can mix with your current coolant and lead to sludge. Therefore, its best just to stick with the slightly more expensive (but compatible) honda/acura stuff.
#6
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Honda coolant only. Get it from your local Honda or Acura dealer. Trust me on this one.
If you don't want to buy a whole jug, just ask the service manager if he can top it off for you, or even check it out because you shouldn't lose coolant under normal circumstances.
You didn't say how old your car is, but mine is over 2 years old and I have never added water.
#7
Instructor
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same here, my 05 TL was low on coolant also, but too late i already added some non-honda brand coolant. hmm, dont know why it is low on coolant already for a year old car.
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#8
Registered Member
I purchased two gallons of the Honda premix from my Acura dealer about 2+ months ago upon the recommendation of Road Rage. I trust his advise.
#11
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I've had to top my 04 off twice already. I don't know where it is going - hopefully out of the overfill hose thing attached to the overflow resivoir.
I'm not too worried about it. I do use the Honda coolant.
Nip
I'm not too worried about it. I do use the Honda coolant.
Nip
#12
Not a Blowhole
#13
Not a Blowhole
Generally, a new car should not require "topping off" the coolant in the recovery tank at all. However, during asembly, there can be small pockets of trapped air that need to work themselves through the system, and this will occur as the air is forced into the overflow tank, and into the atmosphere. Since the "trapped" air takes up a volume (it is, after all, just another liquid), the coolant level showing on the tank's sides will appear to drop.
I flush the coolant every 2 years, and just did it on the TL. No big deal, and while Honda advises loosening the block drain plug as well as the rad plug, that is not a must do.
Many cars have a "bleed" hole that is at or near the high point of the coolant system - where air will want to reach. Pouring in coolant through the rad cap will dispel any trapped air when it comes out the bleed hole (or the "burp" hole as I call it). The 3G TL does not have such a burp hole. One trick to reduce trapped air is to raise the front of the car somewhat, or have it on a slight incline when filling. Be sure to check the level when the car is - well - level. Duh.
I have actually seen cars where the head gaskets failed when bad wrenches (usually weekend hackers or inexperienced pros) did not follow good mechanic practices. The trapped air got behind the thermostat, and since the coolant to air heat transfer was not enough to open the thermostat, the engine coolant temp in the block and heads soared, while the coolant gauge looked just divine.
Honda is very good about parts and reducing warranty nightmares - they use thermostats that have a "burp hole" which will ensure enough coolant bypasses a closed thermostat even with trapped air on the suply side. So the system is pretty much idiot-proof.
My SOP when working on cars without bleed holes (besides raising the front end a bit as already mentioned) is to:
1) Drill a small hole in the thermostat housing where it points "up" in the thermo housing
2) Pry open the thermostat and place an aspirin in the gap - as the coolant flows, the aspirin will disintegrate - this helps ensure no trapped air or balky wax pellets
fry the engine "the first time".
I flush the coolant every 2 years, and just did it on the TL. No big deal, and while Honda advises loosening the block drain plug as well as the rad plug, that is not a must do.
Many cars have a "bleed" hole that is at or near the high point of the coolant system - where air will want to reach. Pouring in coolant through the rad cap will dispel any trapped air when it comes out the bleed hole (or the "burp" hole as I call it). The 3G TL does not have such a burp hole. One trick to reduce trapped air is to raise the front of the car somewhat, or have it on a slight incline when filling. Be sure to check the level when the car is - well - level. Duh.
I have actually seen cars where the head gaskets failed when bad wrenches (usually weekend hackers or inexperienced pros) did not follow good mechanic practices. The trapped air got behind the thermostat, and since the coolant to air heat transfer was not enough to open the thermostat, the engine coolant temp in the block and heads soared, while the coolant gauge looked just divine.
Honda is very good about parts and reducing warranty nightmares - they use thermostats that have a "burp hole" which will ensure enough coolant bypasses a closed thermostat even with trapped air on the suply side. So the system is pretty much idiot-proof.
My SOP when working on cars without bleed holes (besides raising the front end a bit as already mentioned) is to:
1) Drill a small hole in the thermostat housing where it points "up" in the thermo housing
2) Pry open the thermostat and place an aspirin in the gap - as the coolant flows, the aspirin will disintegrate - this helps ensure no trapped air or balky wax pellets
fry the engine "the first time".
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