Not to start another oil war (even though I LOVE them), please state:

1) Motor Oil you are currently using
2) Oil Filter that you are currently using
3) Your Interval

I know that there've been ones like this in the past, but I'd just like to see an update as to what people are using now.

Michael

 

1.Royal Purple 5w-30
2.k&n gold filter
3. Plan on 7,000; ive made it 5856 as of right now

 

There was a Consumer Reports article a few years back, where followed taxi cabs in New York. Obviously, continous stop and go traffic for 6 to 8 hours a day is very hard on an engine. In the report they had diifferent test groups with different oil change intervals. They did this test for a full year. Afterwards, they disassembled the changes to determine the amount of wear.

The conclusion was there was no measurable difference in the wear of engines with the oil changes at 3000 miles vs 7500 miles.

Based on this, I switched over to 7500.

Gatorfan

 

1. Motorcraft 5w-20 ( I may switch to Havoline 5w-20 or Mobil 1 5w-20)
2. Purolator Pure One (I have been a big fan of AC Delco Ultraguard Gold filters, but they quit making them a few years ago.)
3. I changed at 4000 miles on the odometer and will change again at 8000. From then on, I will change at either the MID recommendation or 5000 mile intervals whichever is least.

 

Man,
That report wasn't very scientific. I dare you to take any top rated car the Toyota Camry that they top rate, and run ANY off the shelf oil at 6K drains and Fram filters for 60,000 miles, and I'll GUARANTEE you that it'll sludge up.

I'm not going to explain it any further, just read more about it here and pay special attention to Terry Dyson's comments:

Link

Michael

 

Who are you and do you even own a TL??

 

Does it matter?

Michael

 

What does it matter? - as an analgous situation, I am a scientist, and an amateur cosmologist, but I do not own the Universe. ;-)

What does matter is that Michael has valuable knowledge which he shares - that is what matters. There is enough anecdotal yakking on this site that ownership as a prerequisite for sharing doesn't strike me as offering much other than - anecdotal yakking. Personally, I am grateful that MW is willing to share with the 3G folks at all.

OK, back on topic:

1) Havoline GF-4 5w20 or Motorcraft 5w20 Synblend
2) Honda S2000 oil filters - also like PureOne's
3) Frequent changes during the first 10k run-in; now settling at 5k with oil analysis, with possibility to extend to 7500 if the science warrants such a move

 

I have yet to see a RP analysis that looked very good - and the latest ones of their motorcycle oils looked dismal, with 2.5x the wear rate of dino oils. Me no like. I have always been skeptical of their ad copy, their history, and how the car mags suck up to them with absolutely anemic scientific discipline - the science of the UOA's that have been posted at BITOG do nothing to convince me that they are more walk than talk. My advice is to do your own research and decide for yourself, but as I have absolutely no association anymore with the oil indisutry, you may take my observations at face value.

 

1) Mobil 1 0w20
2) Mobil 1 filter
3) I follow the MID - 15% mark was reached after about the 6,000 miles the last 3 times.

 

Pennzoil oil filters
Pennziol 5w20 synthetic
3k miles

I know pennziol isnt the greatest, but its FREE

 

Hey where are you getting GrpIII PZ 5w-20 for free?

BTW, PZ Oil Filters are produced by Fram.

Please don't use Fram Filters.

Michael

 

-Havoline 5w-20 (Mechanic bitch that the oil color was dark and not good) but I told him to put in anyway. Is it suppose to be dark? He recommends Mobil syn (grey bottle @ 5 bucks a piece).
-I brought a STP oil filter (8804 something like that), but the mechanic change my oil filter from stock, it was the skinny & tall one. He replace it with Mobil oil filter. Is it good? It's a white color, tall & skinny.

I just change the oil @ 3100 from stock oil . MID had 30 or 40% left.

I might have to switch to Motorcraft, since I can't find 5w-20 Havoline at an AutoZone store in NYC. Thanks to RR's Journals recomendations.

MW & RR - any more suggestions. Most appreciative for your inputs.

 

I can't seem to find PureOne filters in NYC or online??

 

While I have yet to change the oil in my 2005 TL (Less than 1 week old with less than 250 miles on it).

Here is what I plan on using:

Oil Filter= Baldwin Filters
Oil = Mobil1 or HavolineGF4(If I can find it locally)

Best regards from Montreal

frenchnew

 

Color doesn't tell much, unless the oil appears as a milkshake.

Mobil 1 Oil Filters (I think thats what you're talking about, however, they're gray) are produced by the same people who make STP Filters, but it is a higher-end model with better construction. I'm not too fond of the lower-end Champion filters because of their constructions. I'd rather have a Purolator PureOne, which is an entry-level high-efficiency filter, for $5-$6. You can purchase them at Advanced Auto or Pep Boys.

If you can't find 5w-20 Havoline, use the 5w-30. It works fine as well, just be prepared to take a fuel economy hit. Pennzoil is also an excellent choice, though I recommend Havoline for break-in since it more closely resembles the chemistry of the Honda Factory Fill. Remember, Chevron Supreme and Havoline are roughly the same formula.

Michael

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

decide for yourself, but i found it helpful

 

Thanks..
I saw them pour the oil, dark, smooth oil, no milkshake. The filter shell was not grey. It was white, tall & skinny. The STP filter I brought was grey, short & well rounded. I'll have to return it. I'll look for it at a Pep Boys store.

 

its what our shop stocks. i either use pennzoil or the napa filters when they are in stock. i used to use k&n filters but i didnt like paying 7 bucks for them.

 

1.) Mobil 1 5W-30
2.) Mobil 1 M110
3.) Following MID

 

Although normally a CR "fan", I wasn't really impressed with that test. I think there is at least one important difference between taxicab engine wear and our cars. That would be cold starts. Supposedly, cold starts are where most of the wear occurs in an engine. (I've heard that one cold start is equal to driving 100 miles for engine wear). Taxicabs, by driving all the time and never really cooling down, don't have the cold start wear to the same degree.

 

1) Motorcraft 5-20 Synblend (15 oz. MLEP with first change.)
2) Honda recommended Filtech filter (I bought a case of 30.)
3) 3000 mi, 7500 mi, then according to MID (as long as UOA supports the MID.)

Special thanks to Michael Wan and Road Rage for all your excellent advice.

 

Good plan..but I'd like to point out something.

MC 5w-20 rarely lasts 7500 miles without the help of an anti-oxident such as Lube Control. Try testing at 5000-6000 miles for the first time with Butler Labs then extend to 7500 miles. But highly recommend using Lube Control, since no oil can keep an engine clean over long drains without the help of Lube Control, nor does it have the oxidative stability; believe it or not, Lube Control really helps dissipate heat and helps with TBN retention, and often increases oil life by at least 15%. Basically, using Lube Control at a slightly higher 6 ounce initial dose, and a 1-3 ounce recharge every 1,000 miles depending on the look, feel, and smell of the oil on the dipstick with yield you the same results of a synthetic in most cases, easily allowing 7-10K drains once the additive package has been adjusted to the engine.

Michael

 

Whether you folks believe it or not, I never was very impressed with the increased Iron (Valvetrain wear) and rather weak TBN (active additive remaining, aka Total Base Number) retention. Although the M1 0w-40 and the M1 15w-50 had stronger TBN retention, the 5w-30/10w-30 are particularly weak in this area.



Michael

 

PM me with the location of your shop...I'm off to pick up some PZ 5w-20 GrpIII syn to test in my car for fun.

It's funny how we've been testing 20wts in applications calling for 30 and 40wts will no ill-effects, consumption, or increased wear. Its now time for me to join in.

Michael

 

MW & RR,

I ran Castrol Syntec since I can remember in my '86 VW GTI and got 175K out of it before an accident; so far the same in my '99 CR-V. My 2005 TL is just over 5K and from what I'm learning from you and others, it is past due for its first change even though MID says 30%.

Question: your analyses (is that plural correct?) of various oils have been extremely helpful. For someone who wants to learn even more, is there a "secret decoder ring" that would help me evaluate some of the data for oils that I haven't seen you discuss (e.g. Castrol)? I'm partial to it based on my own experience, but I'd like to see the science without troubling you any more than I already am by asking this question. I've already learned a ton and it is much appreciated.

BTW, an anecdote/question that might be a good learning tool for others: somewhere around 150K on my GTI it started burning coolant so bad you could see the white smoke; they replaced the head gasket, didn't solve the problem, turned out to be a cracked head, which was replaced. Around the same time, however, the dealer also had high praise for my engine block and wear, stating that my compression was in better shape than most new cars. Does this make (1) a good case for used oil analysis, as I've seen debated on other threads; (2) a case against the Castrol Syntec; or (3) both/neither. thanks.

 

I live in NJ, I used to do my drivings 50% on 295N(highway) and 50% on stop&go (city), I change my oil at 5000 miles with Mobil one. I did it twice, my car currently has 12,000miles. Now it's a pleasure car, I drive it only on weekends and on highway... I plan to change it every 7500.

I'm more worried about my transmission fluid than the engine oil as the TL in the previous model have a history of bad trannies...

I plan on doing synthetic tranny fluid, but not sure if it's recommended..

comments?

 

I'm using what ever Acura puts in the car for Oil.
Honda Oil filter from the dealer
every 6000KM

No one else seams to be using the dealer oil and filter. Is there a reason?
I have been getting free oil filter and fluid changes since I baught that car in 2001.

 

That Consumer Reports report was scientific, they used a pre/post weight analysis to determine wear of bearings. When I was a engineering aide at NASA, Rockwell/ Rocketdyne did the same thing for the Shuttle J-1 engines to determine wear on bearings for the liquid fuel turbo-pumps and hydrozine pumps. So yes they did use a scientific approach to the bearing wear but did not do any chemical spectral analysis of the lubricants.

From what I recall the Consumer Reports oil comparison test from the mid-90's used a fleet of GM taxi's with V6's that were were fresh engines. The engines had their main/rod/cam bearings weighted before the test and then were run using a specific oil after the prolonged test run. The engines were taken apart and the bearings were weighted again and compared to the original weights. The test environment for taxi's in NYC can be debated forever.

They did not do much chemical analysis since they were more interested in the end result as to how much wear the engine components had. They also noted the extreme cost of proper chemical analysis of the oil.

 

Haven't changed the oil in my TL but for our Honda Pilot with 57K miles here are my oil/filter choices

1) Castrol SynBlend or GTX 5W-20
2) Honda OEM
3) ~4K miles

 

The M1 5W-30 was in the sump before any information was posted regarding the TBN or UOA analysis on it.
Being that I live in a place that gets cold in winter (I don't really care to change oil in a 10deg garage), and other considerations, like my driving environment,
I don't think there's any cause for concern on my part about what's currently flowing through the oil galleries.

But, FWIW, a case of M1 Extended Performance 5W-30 is currently sitting on the shelf (upside down) for the next oil change which should come due in about the July/August time frame.

I should also note that while I do follow the MID, during the first cycle I did replace the oil filter at the 50% mark and topped off the sump with a non-M1 (dino synthetic) oil.

 

1) 5W-20 Castrol, Penzoil, or maybe Quaker State - no real favorite - just whatever is on sale. Usually one of these three. "Earl is Earl" doing frequent changes and using one of these three
2) Been FRAMing it all my life, but after reading all the messages on this forum for past year - I will switch to something else - Pure One maybe?
3) 6000 - 7500 (try to not go much lower than 30% on MID)

 

Hey - was just out checking online about Purolator filters since I have a change coming due and I have finally used up all my Frams on the wife's car

I saw this - Just FYI for you DIYers like me who like to stock up.....
************************************************** ***
From April 3 to May 15, during the Purolator Pure Protection Promotion at participating retailers, you can save up to $5.50 on Purolator filters! This includes:

• $2.00 off a PremiumPLUS cabin air filter
• $1.50 off a PureONE oil filter
• $1.00 off a PremiumPLUS oil filter
• $1.00 off a PremiumPLUS air filter!

Get ready for the road, now with Purolator’s Pure Protection Promotion. With great deals like this, why not change ALL your filters!

Offers may vary. Visit any of the following retailers below for more information: Fred Meyer, Pep Boys Auto, Bi-Mart, Mills Fleet Farm, Strauss Discount Auto, Advance Auto Parts, GI Joe’s and Meijer.

 

honda filter with Motorcraft Synblend 5w 20

 

Now that I have completely tossed my work aside and looking online for filter info - on two parts sites I have seen this listed next to the Fram oil Filter:

OIL FILTER
Note: Full-Flow Spin-on; Recommendation based on current OEM requirements

??

Anyway - I will give up FRAM if someone can tell me which is better:

• Purolator Pure One (don't know the part# for TL)
• Mobil M1-104 (was there also talk about 110?)

which should a guy use?
Thanks. Sorry - don't mean to hijack

 

PureOne for most <7K drains

For over 10K drains, I recommend the Amsoil.

M1 and K&N Filters aren't that much better than the PureOne.

Michael

 

I would pick the Puro PL 14610, but the Mobil is a good choice, too.

 

Purolator Pure One is better, I've used both, the reason I said it's better because the P.P.One cost about $5.99 (cheaper ) and works just fine for me. You can get them at pepboys and fits perfectly.

 

Doesn't FRAM make the filters for Honda?? My wife has an Odyssey and the filter I got at the dealer says made by FRAM even though it has Honda written on it and a Honda PN.

 

The M104 is oversized... The M110 is the same size as the stock filter. Personally I use the M110... If I didn't have that, the PureOne would be my choice.

From the following thread (tons of info) - You should read this too...

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=107337&page=2

I came up with the following list of filters that fit:

15400-PLM-A01 (Stock Filter - Filtech made)
15400-PLM-A02 (Stock Filter - Fram made)
15400-PCX-004 (Someone had this listed as OK)
Mobil 1 #M1-104 (Oversized from stock)
Mobil 1 #M1-110 (Same size as stock)
Purolator PureONE PL14610 (Just checked PepBoys: $5.99)
Hastings LF-386
Wix 51334
Fram 6607
Fram 7317

Remember that you may need a new crush washer as well.

And to stray from the

Oil: Mobil 1 5w-20 (gonna switch to the new fangled M1 next)
Filter: Mobil 1 M110
OCI: Every 4k to 5k