JetJock

I've been using Red Line in my TL. Both 2002 TLS and 2004 TL I've owned have used Red Line with great results. Yeah, it's expensive but since I don't drive the car daily it's a small cost compared to the overall cost of the car.

Doubtit

Nope you can do it yourself, read owners manual. I'll bet the dealers would really love it if they were the only ones who were able to do it $$$$$$$$$$

Brettg

I was told by Johnson cams that castrol has taken the extreme pressure lube out
of their oil (GTX) and Johnson cams will not warentee their cams if you
run castrol.

Just like fram filters, which used to be good a long time ago, just because
something used to be good does not mean its going to be good forever.

In the old bike, I went to valvoline racing not street legal 20w50 for the
added extreme pressure lube.

Brett

bar2v

Havoline 5W-20 with Purolator PureOne Filter : Total = 13.95 + tax @ Advance Auto Parts

Repecat

Wise choices, bar2v. I honestly can't justify using anything more exotic unless one really beats on the car and/or tracks the car a lot.

JDM5lugHatch

That's my exact setup as well. However, Wal-Mart has the Oil Cheaper.

TLTrance

Not to hijack.. But Michael Wan, when did you become a mod?

SodaLuvr

Last week.
Mike

bgreenard

I will be changing the oil on my 05 TL for the first time and I will be using Mobil1 1. I have owned may performance cars to include Corvettes. I feel if GM is willing to go to the extra expense to use Mobil 1 in the Corvette, which they have been doing for at least the past 15 or so years, then it is good enough for me. I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles except my drag car because I change the oil too frequently. My .02

B

flvol77

5w 20 motorcraft syn....after doing a search and reading all the threads from roadrage that is the oil I decided on.

ChuckDu

Motorcraft 5w-20 Synblend with an OEM Honda FILTECH filter has performed well enough for me to date. I've had an used oil analysis performed for each of my first 3 oil changes so far and the results look good enough that I trust this oil for the MID-recommended oil change interval. However, after reading virtually all the oil posts from Michael Wan and Roadrage, I'm comfortable following just about any of their recommendations. Both are smart guys with lots of common sense.

What I would like to know is what 5W-20 oils we should stay away from if all we want to do is follow the MID's oil change recommendations? These could be oils that don't perform well for that long of an interval or are over-engineered/overpriced for that short of an interval.

clsdave

Havoline 5W-20 with Purolator PureOne PL14610 Filter.

JOES05tl

mobil1 5/20 for me too! just my 2 cents

mojo risin

Havoline 5w-20

spool32

Nice to see this thread popped back up again!

Since Castrol went on sale for $3.99, I went to 7 different autozones and bought up all the stock of 0-30 German Castrol M02, M03, M04 (green). I have enough in my garage to take my TL out to about 150,000 miles without having to use a different oil.

Have a shelf full of green elves

tach32000

I had an 2003 Accord v6, and a race car with Chevy 470CI, 1000HP, now the 2005 TL. I used Full Syn Mobile 1 in my race cars for 7 years, and the engine builder did notice less wear using the Syn. So I have used Mobile Syn 1 , 0w-20, in the Accord, and now the TL.

Living in Central, NY the oil is much lighter, and heats up quicker than conventional.

Yes its costs more, but I do my own oil changes so the cost balances out.

SodaLuvr

Once Green GC becomes scarce, you should sell it back to the people on BITOG for a profit.

Michael

chaeric

Amsoil 5W-20 here....oil change every 7500 miles. I also been using the Fram X2 oil filters as well..

ARX-01b

iTrader: (1)

Same Here

mikey4226

does using a different oil other than the one the dealer uses make that much of a difference for normal everyday driving (mostly city, some hw)?

KilroyR1

As long at the oil you use meets the API standards, you should be fine. Really, I think people are a little over the top over oil. Most change the oil often then neglect coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid and horn fluid .

You'll be fine using a name brand oil in the appropriate viscosity.

Luke7

Plain and simple! synthetic=waste of your money.

sek2dts

cant say i agree with that. i used to have a turbocharged civic that i used run in t4 and streetfwd. mobil 1 amsoil redline all excell over the regular stuff, it stronger under abuse. its expensive because your paying for Additives that other oil doesnt have. just my 2 cents

Juronimo

My last oil change, I got 5w20 synthetic mobil 1. It cost $60 at EZ Lube. I wonder if it was worth it.

Nautica91

Just got my oil changed for the first time today, went to a bunch of different places looking for Mobil1 in 5w-20, finally found a place with the oil in stock, an Expressway location in Mamaroneck, NY... $59.99+tax... after I stopped laughing, I told the guy no thanks. On a whim I stopped into one of those car wash/oil change places in the Bronx where I live... Mobil1 0W-20 $43.25 out the door...

I think I'll be doing my own oil changes in the future... just need to invest in a set of ramps...

amarpawar

Spool I am almost at 1000 miles . So you think I should get my oil changed? can you recommend anything with molybdenum in it?

SodaLuvr

I now suggest leaving the factory fill in for 3000 miles prior to change out, simply because from what I've seen, there may be some adds that Honda is using other than MoDTC.

For those who have already changed their's out at 1000 miles, its fine but I suggest leaving it in for 3K in the future.

Mike

spool32

I believe Havoline 5-20 has the highest amount of molybdenum

I did my first change out today at 1820 mi. Since it was sunday and i had a limited amount of time to find a purolator filter, I went to checker and got a Bosch Premium (dunno if its any good, but seemed better than the fram). Got a brand new oil pan to limit contamination. The oil that came out definately has metal floating around from break in. It could have used a change a little earlier I think.

I have a couple quarts of GC M05 (gold) to run for the next 1500 miles when I change it again then its on to the green stuff.

Luke7

Yea, use to have a Thunderbird Turbo and NO they didn't call for SYNTHETIC/I'll say it again and again and again=if these honda engines will run over 300,000 miles as mine did using Castrol GTX for $9.77 a 5 qt. jug at Wally Mart Why in this world would you pay and waste money for MOBILE 1? This is just plain Stupid. There is no argument=AGAIN=Synthetic is a waste of money for everyday driving in an ACURA><WASTE OF MONEY! AGAIN!

Brettg

There are 2 places synthetic oil pays off:

Extended drains, at least 3 times what you would do with dino,

Turbo engines. Many turbo engines have limited oil capacity, like
the VW 1.8T, 170 hp out of a turbo 1.8, that holds about 4 quarts.
That is not good for dino oil and 5000 mile changes what with the turbo
hot spots.

I seriously doubt you will ever get to the point where the engine is worn out
on dino oil at 5000 mile or under changes.
How many people actualy drive a car with 300,000 or more miles on it???
I think the rest of the TL will be scrap before the engine wears out...

Brett

trancemission

ahh...okay I was about to change mine. thanks for the heads up Mike.

Legend2TL

Never reached 300K, but did reach 240K on a 1986 Integra LS. The A/C was broke, there was some rear wheel opening rust (Achilles heel of Acura/Honda's body), but surprisingly the rest of the car was in very good condition. Donated last year to charity.

Also reached 220K on a 1989 Legend LS, also donated. Both cars engines used Castrol GTX or SynBlend exclusively chanhed at 3-4K intervals. The valvetrain on the Integra was extremely clean for it's mileage and age.

Hoping for at 240K+ out of my 05 TL, using Castrol Syntec 5W-20 but may switch back to Castrol Synblend 5W-20 in the future.

amarpawar

me too. thanks bud; Spool I hope I am doing the right thing cause I do like to push my car a lot.

And Guys now that I have passed 1K miles (in one wk ) can I drive the car as hard as I want or should I wait till the first oil change?

SodaLuvr

LOL...I prefer gentle from day 1 just for fuel efficiency with the occassional Redline but thats just me...LOL.

Mike

amarpawar

that's true not that I'll be redlining it every single gear change but my question was - I was being real carefull not to pass the 5k RPM mark and not driving really aggressively i.e. downshifting hard into turn etc - so that's what my question was - if I can do a bit more now or should I just wait till I do my first oil change

KilroyR1

I love to see dogmatic statements like this. Take your world, apply it to everyone else and poof, the meaning of life comes out.

spool32

if you guys are going to hold out for 3k miles before your first oil change, could you save a couple ounces of it and do a used oil analysis? I had a lot more junk in mine when I drained it, i'm curious if there will be a big difference in metal pieces floating in yours than were in mine?

From the looks of my used oil, it looked like a metallic paint in the oil pan.

@1000 miles you can lay in to the throttle a little more. I'm not sure if its a great idea to redline every gear though, even after its fully broken in. Especially with how fast the car would be moving if you have it redlined in 3rd-4th gear.

Luke7

I love to see dogmatic statements like this. Take your world, apply it to everyone else and poof, the meaning of life comes out.

SORRY BUDDY but I'll have to disagree with your statement. Let use some deductive reasoning here. I love seeing statements like this. OK=Find me any scientific evidence that Syn. will make the Acura Engines last longer etc. in our daily use and I'll take back what I said. I cost me $15 to change the oil with Castrol 5/30 DINO. I do it every 3/4 Thousands miles. Put over 300,000 on both previous Honda's - Oh that was in Northern Ohio in EXTREME heat /cold Temps. Every mechanic said how well my cars ran with almost 300 on them. Never an internal problem. Even the National Honda rep. told me that Syn. was a waste of money. He told me of their engine tests and was right as am I. SO-I'll repeat. Synthetic=A waste of your money. You won't be able to justtify it unless you want to change oil more often. Your still spending more $$ and it's "A waste of your money." If breakdown of internal engine rings etc. was a concern with these engines, then I'd post something else. And one more thing=Synthetic $35 per change if I do it myself. I'd never go 8K before changing the oil. The syn. still get DIRTY. Hope this makes sense. If not, go out and waste your $$.

AcuraVic

Maybe I missed it in this thread, but does anyone know what type of oil is used for the factory fill (the original oil in the car)? And why we dont strive to use that oil for the life of the car (meaning every oil change)?

KilroyR1

The problem with deductive reasoning is the lack of science. To deduce is to infer by reasoning. To infer is to surmise or guess. Your experience is anecdotal.

Search my posts, you will find a scientific oil analysis result of Motorcraft 5W20 syn-blend that show plenty of TBN left after more than 6000 miles. I KNOW that my driving habbits and the MID allow a comfortable safety margin.

This oil costs about $2 per quart at Wal-Mart. An OEM filter is about $6. So I can do more than 6000 miles on $16 (I also change my oil on myself).

Your spending nearly twice as much on oil changes because you refuse to take advantage of today's synthetics and sythetic blends. Your also depleting natural resouces faster and straining the environment.

I use ester-based ($$$) synthetic in my motorcycle that sees occational track days. The shifting is much better (common crankcase for engine and transmission oil) and that bike gets ridden hard. Plus, the extra protection the oil affords provides peace of mind. Mechanical failures at 170 mph on a motorcycle can have serious consequences.

I repeat, .

Don