What to look out for when purchasing a TL? ('08)

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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 06:27 PM
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What to look out for when purchasing a TL? ('08)

So I'm going to start off by saying I'm not sure if I posted this in the right area, I apologize in advance.

Second, I'm not very familiar with Honda or Acura products.

I'm looking at a 2008 Acura TL (with Navi) with 177k miles. The asking price is $7500 currently. I know I'll be able to get the price a few hundred dollars cheaper.

I'm very considered about the mileage, but I understand its a Honda so it should be some what reliable. I was looking at a '06 X5 for the same price and same mileage but its a BMW so I know I'd be dumping money into it.

What are some things that I should look at before purchasing it? I'd still probable have a mechanic check it out, but I want to know the specifics of this generation car. I've been reading and have only found 3rd gear tranny problems and cracking interior noises.

ps. it's an automatic
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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I am sure others will weigh in about the price but since I have owned a 2008 since new let me make a few suggestions on maintenance.
1-check for body damage, rust, anything else that indicates an accident or harsh salt conditions.
2-ask for service records. Ideally they are all there. If not at a minimum verify that major services like the timing belt have been done.
3-drive the car. How 'tight' does it feel? If it feels 'loose' then suspension and/or body components are worn and need replacing.
4-during the test drive how does the engine and transmission feel? Any hesitation or odd shifting is a bad sign. Especially shifting issues. Bad sign. Slam on the brakes. Does the ABS work? Does the car pull to the right or left under normal (non-ABS) braking?
5-during the test drive check EVERYTHING else. Windows, mirrors, AC, cruise, radio, Navi, etc. anything not working can be expensive to repair. Gives you negotiating power.
6-paint and interior (cosmetics)? Look ok or anything needed? Least important of the others but worth considering.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 09:12 PM
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I'd add to that list - specifically check the following:

Lower control arm compliance bushings - these are known to periodically need replacement. I'd also check over tie rods (inner and outer), as well as sway bar end links. Torn CV boots... exhaust... At that age/mileage that car needs to go up on a lift.

Under "check everything" - include the heated seats, the hands-free link, the sunroof, headlights

When the engine is stone cold make sure there are no odd knocking noises coming from under the hood. When the engine is warm make sure there are no odd knocking noises coming from under the hood.

Also - check all 6 coil packs to make sure that none are mismatched (replaced) and if they are ask why. The odd one could be hidden in the back. Make sure there's no oil leaks on the exhaust manifolds. And make sure you rev the engine all the way up to redline under full-throttle acceleration several times in quick succession to get the engine nice and warm and make sure there's no detonation, perhaps due to a spark plug thread repair. Ask me how I know.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by feldmanbd
I'd add to that list - specifically check the following:

Lower control arm compliance bushings - these are known to periodically need replacement. I'd also check over tie rods (inner and outer), as well as sway bar end links. Torn CV boots... exhaust... At that age/mileage that car needs to go up on a lift.

Under "check everything" - include the heated seats, the hands-free link, the sunroof, headlights

When the engine is stone cold make sure there are no odd knocking noises coming from under the hood. When the engine is warm make sure there are no odd knocking noises coming from under the hood.

Also - check all 6 coil packs to make sure that none are mismatched (replaced) and if they are ask why. The odd one could be hidden in the back. Make sure there's no oil leaks on the exhaust manifolds. And make sure you rev the engine all the way up to redline under full-throttle acceleration several times in quick succession to get the engine nice and warm and make sure there's no detonation, perhaps due to a spark plug thread repair. Ask me how I know.
How do you know? :p
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 08:02 PM
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Lol the 5th cylinder spark plug tends to get loose and eventually shoots out of the spark plug hole if it isn't taken care of beforehand
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:33 PM
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It would be nice if Acura issued a TSB about the spark plug problem and maybe checked it when you came in for an oil change as it takes about 5 minutes to check, as opposed to $4000 or whatever the dealer said it would cost to fix and "we've never heard of anything like that happening." Or at least a letter in the mail or SOMETHING. They managed to find ways to contact me when they wanted to sell me a new car.

I had the new plugs on my counter and was going to change them in 4 more days when the weather was warm and I had some free time on the weekend.

Well, it was time for another car anyway I guess. Gave me a good reason to trade it in! At least I did so before stuff started getting expensive.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by feldmanbd
It would be nice if Acura issued a TSB about the spark plug problem and maybe checked it when you came in for an oil change as it takes about 5 minutes to check, as opposed to $4000 or whatever the dealer said it would cost to fix and "we've never heard of anything like that happening." Or at least a letter in the mail or SOMETHING. They managed to find ways to contact me when they wanted to sell me a new car.

I had the new plugs on my counter and was going to change them in 4 more days when the weather was warm and I had some free time on the weekend.

Well, it was time for another car anyway I guess. Gave me a good reason to trade it in! At least I did so before stuff started getting expensive.
It' s a known issue for a J series engines.. goes all the way back to my 99 Accord V6 (J30A1)


nothing new here, and what?! you expect a dealer to be proactive and admit to a problem?! living under a rock i see
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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Check those lights on the radio and other interior lights on the steering wheel, the glove box, the cup holder cover. Check for damage everywhere, check for the plastic pieces on the engine (I believe tere should be four), look for the under trays to still be there and not broken.

Big One: inspect the dashboard for cracks, if they are forming they will likely split over time. Is the alignment good, does it pull to one side, is there vibration around 55-60 or above 70mph. I know that can be hard to find on a test drive.

Look for evidence of the headlights being opened, tinted, or overlayed. Is there condensation in the hosuings, does the rear view mirror dimmer work, are the map tray extenders in the doors busted, does the car rattle a lot.

Are there gaps in the panels, or ripples in the paint or cracking/spider webbing. This can indicate respray or waves in the paint could mean it had an accident they are trying to cover up. Are there gaps in the panels, of are they touching one another. Is there curb rash on the wheels. I could go on and on, but most of this is common stuff to look for in all used cars too, just what I found to be commone in these cars.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 06:14 PM
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Just recently bought an 04 TL @ 106K miles and I wasn't as attentive to the suspension as I should have been during the test drive - I could have used the worn suspension for price negotiation.


And, this is a very small thing, the LED lights on the cruise control buttons are out - the point of stating that is there are a LOT of lights everywhere that you don't notice until you drive the car at night.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 07:33 PM
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So I took the car out for a test drive. I'll be able to take it for $6300 because my parents have purchased over 30 cars from this guy.

The salesman's son was the former owner of the car. Summing it up, the miles were from highway use because of his job (he had some sort of weather / environmental job).

Apparently I'm not covered on the dealer insurance so I had my parents come and they took the car. We'll take it for a few days and decide over the weekend. We're gonna get it checked out and maybe make a purchase on Monday.

The downside is, the insurance is gonna be $150 more than my '04 Elantra. I actually think it's more than our E90 BMW.

Overall, the car felt good and I believe it's gonna be a good buy. Stay tuned.
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Bimmitup
So I took the car out for a test drive. I'll be able to take it for $6300 because my parents have purchased over 30 cars from this guy.

The salesman's son was the former owner of the car. Summing it up, the miles were from highway use because of his job (he had some sort of weather / environmental job).

Apparently I'm not covered on the dealer insurance so I had my parents come and they took the car. We'll take it for a few days and decide over the weekend. We're gonna get it checked out and maybe make a purchase on Monday.

The downside is, the insurance is gonna be $150 more than my '04 Elantra. I actually think it's more than our E90 BMW.

Overall, the car felt good and I believe it's gonna be a good buy. Stay tuned.
$150 a month? Or for a six or twelve month plan? I dont even pay 150$ a month total. It is a $6500 car, I am actually starting to think about just dropping down to lower insurance instead of full coverage because I dont think insurance companies value these cars high yet they want to charge you a shitload.
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenSpades
$150 a month? Or for a six or twelve month plan? I dont even pay 150$ a month total. It is a $6500 car, I am actually starting to think about just dropping down to lower insurance instead of full coverage because I dont think insurance companies value these cars high yet they want to charge you a shitload.
It'll be near $190 a month for full coverage. I may just drop it to liability.
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 12:42 AM
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holy crap dude, even my CL-S isn't that expensive, $600/6 for 100K/300K/100K. The 2K3 Subaru Legacy runs $400/6 for the same coverage....

Originally Posted by GreenSpades
$150 a month? Or for a six or twelve month plan? I dont even pay 150$ a month total. It is a $6500 car, I am actually starting to think about just dropping down to lower insurance instead of full coverage because I dont think insurance companies value these cars high yet they want to charge you a shitload.
They classify the TL/TL-S (and the older CL-S) as a sport sedan and as such your rates are always higher than say a Subaru or Accord or Civic...
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai
holy crap dude, even my CL-S isn't that expensive, $600/6 for 100K/300K/100K. The 2K3 Subaru Legacy runs $400/6 for the same coverage....



They classify the TL/TL-S (and the older CL-S) as a sport sedan and as such your rates are always higher than say a Subaru or Accord or Civic...
Yep I used to have an 00 accord EX 5spd. Honestly it was just like the TL just everything on the TL is one step up in quality and performance. The accord tho costed like half as much to insure. It was also the 2.3L 4cyl so theres that too.
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