imports4me

iTrader: (2)

hey guys,

just bought a 07 type s and the car is at 108k miles....im not sure if the previous owner changed the fluid yet, so im going to change it just in case. i heard our car has transmission troubles so i was wondering what brand of oil/fluid to use.

i called a local shop and they recommended genuine honda oil, and they quoted 90 bux. i dont mind paying more for better brands of fluid if its alot better...

any advice? also, what really consist of a tranny fluid change....is it...

just a drain and fill

or drain and flush and fill....

which is better or is it worth it?

thanks in advance

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

Do some research, this has been beaten to death.
A lot of people have gone with Redline brand
D4 seems to be a better quality than the Honda Z1
Others also go with a mix of 1 quart Lightweight Racing ATF and 2 quarts Racing ATF, Some have gone straight Racing ATF. Just do some reading and you'll find your answer.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products.aspx

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

seems so confusing.....thanks anyways...

94eg!

Then just use the Honda DW-1 fluid. It's replaced the older Z1 fluid. Honda recommends against flushing in the conventional sense. To flush, they recommend you just change it out 3 times with a bit of driving between each change (called the 3x3). 3qts, 3 times. Typically you need to buy 10qts cause it really takes about 3.5qts to top it off the last time.

spaceboy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170519396608...84.m1497.l2649


awesome deal...just got some from him last week

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

just copied and paste your link....it doesn't work..

spaceboy

just simply click it...no need to copy and paste...worked well for me

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

I do 2qts Redline D4 + 1 qt Redline Racing on my drain and fills

VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Just buy Redline D4. It is a better fluid and it's cheaper when you buy a case of 12.

3x3 is recommended. I recommend doing a change (a 1x3 which is a drain and fill) every 3k miles (so in 12k miles you're doing a 3x4). Approx. 3 quarts per drain is gone.

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

i think i understand you on this....problem for me right now is im living with my inlaws until spring until we get our house....therfor i dont want to do car stuff in their single car garage....

i think best for me right now is to either have my cousin do this, with what you said.....or go to a shop and eat the cost of the labour with me providing the oil..

where is best to get redline d4 in case of 12? ebay?

spaceboy

then just wait til Spring....its not like its gonna explode if u dont change it soon

drummer boy04

I would go on there website and use their "find a dealer" feature, because I found a store that sells their oil for 104.39 a case (9.50 a quart) near my house. Online places usually sell if for 10.95 a quart. If you can't find a good deal near you then just order directly from them or some place like Summit Racing.

cjsmith79

I use BG products....not a problem whatsoever

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

i could wait, but i feel that if i get it done now, i'll feel that i have put in something to keep my newer car more reliable...i guess....

plus, i know that TL's are pretty bad with trannys...
Not knowing how the previous owner did with this car, i just know that its at 108k and that he has changed the water pump and timing belt as a precaution.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Autom...2690629&sr=8-2

Outdoorpros used to have it on there website but I can't find it anymore. Would've saved you about 20$

Also I'd recommend you to change your 3rd/4th gear solenoids. That is a known problem with our TLs, change them every 60k miles.

leedogg

My recommendation is to stick with the reformulated Honda DW1 atf or Redline D4 with the slight edge to DW1 because it might have additives specifically tailored to our transmissions.

Most of the opinions here on on Redline type F and lightweight racing fluids seem to be based more on theoretical reasoning rather than extensive long term testing.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Your "additives" you were talking about is not good for any transmissions.

"Most" of those opinions based on Redline Racing/Lightweight is not based on theoretical reasoning, it is based on theoretical facts.

spaceboy

have you personally check to see how bad the oil is???if its not too bad i would wait til the new house with a bigger space to work on the car so that way its more comfy and u can take as long as u want to work on it....until then do a bit more search on the oil and maybe u will run into some kind of sale online or at your local store (since Christmas is coming...) if u can't decide on any aftermarket oil, then just stick with the OEM one...can never go wrong with that!!!

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

this is another good idea.....i never changed the transmission oil before so all this is new to me....im sure i could figure it out, just dont want to pay the shops 100 for something that is just drain, fill........work...

how do i check the oil? and what should it look like? noob for these cases..

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

what another thing to look into. 3th/4th gear solenoids? any idea of cost this is? my type s is a 5AT in case it matters

spaceboy

For my 05 TL there is a yellow dipstick near the battery..I am not sure about ur TL-S....check your owner's manual...it should say...and u might also wanna check to see how to remove the engine under cover...it's pretty easy.....

leedogg

i'm happy to see any information showing dw1 isnt optimal. Those theoretical facts had my tranny shifting and jerking roughly around like a teen learning how to shift an MT for the first time.

drummer boy04

leedog,

Well the main purpose of the Racing ATF is to put less wear on the transmission. Majority people experienced firmer shifts with it installed, so your experience is similar to what everyone else who did the Racing ATF. Some people just have different preferences like sportier shifts, or smooth shifts.

imports4me,

3rd/4th pressure switches are around 35-40 bucks a piece. Remember that you need to get 2 3rd pressure switches, and one 4th since you have an 07 transmission. You can get them through Acura OEM parts stores, or your dealership.
I think you can also get them through Acktl05. can someone please confirm that?

JackSampson

iTrader: (2)

I did the 3x3 flush with redline atf. Wasted a 100 bucks. Didn't notice a difference at all.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

'Smooth' shifts aren't necessarily good. If you read anything in the Racing ATF thread you would know all the details. I don't want to explain. People like IHC and Innacurate provided proof and evidence over and over. If you really agree with DW-1 or even Z-1-- tell me how many trannies went out on the 2G and 3G cause of fluid and sensors.

They know what they are talking about.

leedogg

I did read the racing fluid thread. I remember the theoretical reasoning behind switching to pure type F. Then I read the theoretical reasoning behind reducing the pure type F down to some 60% mixture. Am I supposed to take the word behind the theoretical hard shifts being good for my tranny? What if they arent good for my tranny? It shouldnt struggle to shift like that. It shouldnt take 3 seconds from when I put it in reverse for it to struggle to get into reverse, it shouldnt lunge around as I drive struggling to get into gear. I'm not saying they're right or wrong, I'm just saying I'm currently more comfortable using the professionally re-engineered/tested DW1 over the theoretically reasoned Type F blend.

ledd4u

I did my refil yesterday using the latest Acura fluid. My car just turned 90k. It was very simple for me and I did not notice any difference at all. I did however by accident find the cause of my 1500 RPM rattle that has been driving me crazy for the last two years. It's a heat shield next to the engine exhaust very close to the CV joint. It was lose and still is lose due to a 12mm nut. I lost my 12mm open end wrench so I could not tighten it. Back to the tranny issue, my car shifts like it did when I bought it. I did perform the trany recommended back around 60k. My dealer did it part of maintenance. I stopped doing maint due to them not fixing my cracked dash. I am doing that next myself after the holidays. About $600.00 and I won't have missing parts

ledd4u

I have worried about it since a trany is likely very expensive. My friend rePlaced his 2001 civic and it was 3200.00. I ain't driving a civic so it's probably more. This is supposed to be my sons car in about two years, I am thinking about just getting a different car for him and selling mine. 2006 TL white diamond navi system( just replaced by Alpine and me). Cracked dash next!

ledd4u

I have worried about it since a trany is likely very expensive. My friend rePlaced his 2001 civic and it was 3200.00. I ain't driving a civic so it's probably more. This is supposed to be my sons car in about two years, I am thinking about just getting a different car for him and selling mine. 2006 TL white diamond navi system( just replaced by Alpine and me). Cracked dash next!

ledd4u

I have worried about it since a trany is likely very expensive. My friend rePlaced his 2001 civic and it was 3200.00. I ain't driving a civic so it's probably more. This is supposed to be my sons car in about two years, I am thinking about just getting a different car for him and selling mine. 2006 TL white diamond navi system( just replaced by Alpine and me). Cracked dash next!

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

^ triple post FTL

Blooze

+1

I recently did a 3x3 on my '08 from Z1 to DW1. For peace of mind, I am going with the belief that the update to the auto trans for the '07-'08 models will provide a longer transmission life. That being said, there was too much info out there showing that Z1 wasn't the best of fluids. That plus I felt that my shifts were to "firm" or "jerky", combined with the logic in the transmission that downshifts when coming to a stop, it was getting annoying. My trans felt like it wanted to shift, but was getting hung and then the shift.

The DW1 has provided for smoother shifting, especially when it is cold. I enjoy driving the car much more and am choosing to believe that DW1 is a good fluid for the TL's.

imports4me

iTrader: (2)

the 3rd and 4th pressure switches.....can someone tell me what they are, what they do and why its good to change....seems like to be a 150 parts only? is this something that i should get the dealer to do or something that i can easily do myself....

thanks

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

That is what I paid at my local Acura dealership last month.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Imports4me - Welcome to the Money Pit.

Below is the link for the DIY thread to replacing the switches. The thread was for the 04-06 models. A couple of us did the 07-08. The second link is for the DIY I included for the 07-08 found on page 8 of that thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=303

If you plan on doing it yourself I would say it will take you about 1-2 hours and you will curse out loud a couple times but it is not too hard. Maybe a 6/10.