pohljm

Just back from a project in Claremont, CA. 245 miles all freeway 34.5 mpg no passengers no luggage, on trip computer. highway queen. my 06 shifts just as described in post #834. to bad my average over 8K is 21MPG @ 29MPH

Majofo

Sounds like a good trip LCR.. I was near Big Sur on Sunday.. I was in some shit rental so I beat it pretty good on PCH and went through Big Basin on 236/9/35. The 4 banger got about 25 mpg.. the TL would probably have been around 17.

It was autoweek at Pebble Beach.. so many 458's, Bentley's, Cali's, Gallardo's, etc.. I've never felt so poor before.

Scottwax

Honestly, I think the biggest problem with our transmissions is the Z-1 ATF. Just a single drain and fill with DW-1 was a noticeable improvement in shift quality so I did a second one. The soft (wouldn't quite call it a flare but close) part throttle 2-3 upshift is no more. At light throttle, shifts are barely perceptible now, at full throttle they are firm and quick.

If you aren't currently having any issues with the transmission (flaring, slipping, etc) its probably best to get rid of the Z-1 ATF and replace as much of it as you can with the DW-1 ATF. Then, at the very least, if you want to use Redline, Type F, etc, you won't have that crappy Z-1 working against it.

LaCostaRacer

Well that might explain something I noticed on Tuesday morning which was about 50 2013 Mercedes between Cambria and Big Sur. I saw a lot of E-Classes with those unique LED DRLs. They were all heading South bound and were sometimes in groups. Even my Wife noticed this as odd and she doesn't notice cars much. Those LEDs make the E-Class really stick out from the other cars now when approaching head on. Never noticed those lights until this trip.

Majofo

Mercedes was definitely there.. SRT, Ferrari, Jag, etc.. +several clubs.. it would have been nice to check out all the rides.

jbird2

This is very helpful. When I was looking at TLs to buy. I noticed that there were many for sale in the 100k-110k mile range. I bought my 2007 TL Base with 102k. I'm getting the tranny flushed today and doing the 105k tune up next month. I am definitely going to get these 3rd and 4th gear sensors replaced too. Great post!
jb2

anagramjones

I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches replaced last month, all three of them for 07 TL base. Didn't make any difference to the little 'shudder' going around 50-60km/h. i have about 120,000km on the car.

i noticed that my wife's 08 accord, with only 40,000km is much more smooth at shifting, although sometimes you'll get the same slight 'shudder'.

so my conclusion is, F it. haha. whatever will be will be. hopefully the 'shudder' that i'm feeling is just a product of my paranoia, and it's not even what everyone is talking about. won't waste hundreds of dollars more on this, better to save up in case i need to do some bigger repair later (hopefully that won't be necessary).

=)

sunny201

Did you change your trans fluid? That was my cause of shuddering.

anagramjones

yup. i think it felt better...er...a little, but maybe that's all in my head. not very scientific at all.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ PM a member on here....his name is John and his sn is Wacker....

he had some shudder and he used some additive with FM's and the shudder went away....

Wacker

What I was experiencing was torque converter shudder. It happened upon torque converter lockup after the 3rd and up gear shifts. My fluid was trashed. I ran about 20 qts of trans fluid through it first to clean it up. It got better but didn't go away from the flushes. I then added this.



It is available at NAPA, Oreilleys, and a few other places. After my last 3X3 I added this:




It's made by the same company. It has other additives in it as well as the shudder eliminator. I have put 40,000 miles on the car since I eliminated the shudder and it has yet to come back. The trans shifts like a dream. I was sure I was going to have to build it.

anagramjones

thanks a lot, Wacker. i love how it's called "Dr. Tranny" usually i stay away from things like that cause it's probably right next to the "As Seen on TV" seal of quality

this looks like it increases the amount of friction modifiers, which makes the shifting softer. does this tend to wear out some of the parts (er...clutch?).

i'm not exactly sure what i'm talking about, but i remember reading that some people were putting in Redline Type F ATF (which contains no friction modifiers) to reduce the shuddering...it made the shifting more responsive but less 'soft'. i guess that feels good from the POV of performance, and because there's less 'slipping' from the friction modifiers creating a softer shift.

bottom line is, by increasing the amount of friction modifiers in the ATF, does this increase the wear on the transmission? (anyone know how, or which parts?)

thanks

Wacker

Not everyone can get away with the redline racing fluids. I went with a type-f first and it made the problem worse. Right now I am running the castrol ATF for imports in my 04 TL and the wifes 06 TL with the red bottle of lube guard in each. The shifts are much more crisp and quick in both cars. Her's never had the shudder but responded very well to the additive. The guys on the trans building forums and bobistheoilguy.com swear by the lube guard products for all Honda and Ford transmissions. They reduce heat on the clutches and greatly extend the life of the trans. I talked to two trans shops when I had my shudder issue. One said I had no choice but to rebuild and the other (a long to lime friend) said to try the lube guard additives, and if they didn't fix the problem that I'd need an overhaul. Do some research. It can't hurt anything. If you try it and don't like it, flush it out. This stuff fixed the same issue on a buddy's Mercury Merauder and another friends Expedition. Both of them can't believe the difference in their transmissions.

40k+ miles later my trans has never felt better.

I hate cars

Fords are incredibly prone to torque converter shudder and the red bottle works good on that. When I rebuilt transmissions we would use DexIII with a black bottle in the pre-electronic Hondas.

DexIII will work well in any Honda and extend the life. Type F works very well for most electronic Hondas but there's a handful it will make worse. It's not the fluid causing a problem, it's the fluid making a previously unseen problem visible. If the trans has trouble exhausting the 3rd gear circuit you're going to get a bind which looks to the driver like a flare and it will cause excessive wear on the 3rd gear clutches.

Torque converter lockup clutch shudder is a completely different animal. The clutch packs do not tolerate slippage so the quicker you get them engaged the better and this is where less FM will benefit the trans. The torque converter is designed to slip for short periods of time. When you have a clutch that's designed to slip, too little FM will cause a shudder. It's just like a limited slip differential with cones or clutches. You have to run an limited slip fluid or add a tube of friction modifier to it or you get chatter around corners.

The vast majority of the problems are shudder on gear shifts and the DexIII or Type F will cure the problem. If its torque converter shudder it won't fix the problem. If the pressure switches have no effect, the DexIII or Type F probably won't either.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

the more and more i snoop around the more terrified i get because my 03 tl is rebuilt. so idk if those items are in mint condition or if theyre about to crash and burn on me any second. this kinda info is very useful.

fsttyms1

Yea, and they are an even worse design with more problems than the 3rd gens here.

Scottwax

Lube Guard stuff is pretty legit.

anagramjones

ok i'll give it a try, and see where i can find it in canada. hopefully canadian napa stores will carry it.

so you just add the dr. shudder red tube, and lube guard in after an ATF flush? can i just add it without replacing the ATF, mine is only about a couple months old, should be DW-1 from honda, unless they gave me some old stock of Z1.

Wacker

You won't need both. One or the other. Shudder fix to stop the problem. Lube guard red to maintain when flushing.

Majofo

I knew it.. you seemed like the type to carry around a bottle of lube wherever you went..

DwightCmendez24

Ok guys please help as soon as possible....I have 04 TL the tranny was rebuilt about 10 months ago and the symptoms are back (slipping, clunking into reverse, slipping while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and randomly between any other gear) when the tranny is rebuilt do they change all of those pressure sensors in the diagram???? HELP

fsttyms1

A "good" shop will. Some of the others will just reuse. Do you have a warranty with your rebuild?

Scottwax

They are supposed to but most just throw in a new set of clutch packs and call it a day. Went through it with a 4th gen Accord. And the last time it went in under warranty, they just tossed a junk yard transmission in my car to get it out of the shop.

pohljm

Dont really think they are "supposed too". They are going to rebuild the transmission and then transfer the electronics and other appurtenances. Hell Acura does not even specify replacing these selenoids. Its up to you to request replacement of the switches

I hate cars

I can understand solenoids to a degree because while they can cause problems it's not likely they will shorten transmission life. Switches will and should always be replaced.

I worked at an exceptional shop when I was young, very honest. On transmissions with known issues such as the Ford E4OD a solenoid pack was included in the cost of a rebuild. Same with many Chrysler FWD transmissions of the era, many times we replaced the pack. On the RWD models just the linear solenoid was replaced. On most GM units the electronics usually didn't get replaced except for the occasional lockup solenoid and neutral safety switch.

What I'm getting at is a good shop should know what needs to be replaced on a particular transmission. With the switches being a large cause of the failures, they should be replaced every time. With the switches being bad already the new transmission won't last as long as the original which seems to be the case a lot of times.

swfl05TLwdp

IHC, my 05 AT 92XXX miles has the bump shift (noticed it going slow over speed bumps 2nd to 3rd upshift.) Two questions: changing the switches and switch to Type F is early enough to curb any serious problems? Also, Type F or Lightweight Type F? thank you

aceyatc

04 TL reading 167k.. I am not sure what to minus since the calibration was off. Anyways, I changed the 3 & 4 switch and went to the DW atf. The shuddering stopped. smooth shift now baby. feels great.

delauren667

Originally Posted by skads_187 View Post
how come only 3/4 sensors?
Mine doesn't seem to be 100% smooth when going from 1st to 2nd, doesn't seem like a problem, but it isn't always smooth.

This is my first post and recently bought a 2006 3.2 TL 5AT with 67000KM from my cousin. My cousin bought this vehicle brand new and this forum and all DIY's has been very informative. I have placed an order for the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch. I think I have the same problem as skads_187 and my vehicle runs too noisy and 'jerky' at 1st and 2nd gear(below 3000 RPM).

Majofo: Could this be crap in the valve body issue related? Is there a write up for this symptom? Your input is appreciated. Thanks.

1KLRTOY

I would suggest doing a 3X3 transmission flush with Redline racing ATF along with changing the switches. I recently bought an 06 TL with 67k and after reading every post on the subject on this forum I did a 3X4 flush using the ratio of Redline racing type F and D4 outlined in the posts and couldn't be happier. The transmission shifts perfect and should last a long time. Just take the time to read all the posts by ihatecars, inacurate and swoosh..

Majofo

1st to 2nd is either a fluid or mechanical issue. Changing the fluid is your best bet. I don't condone the use of solvents, only as a last resort. Do a 3x3 first and see if that helps. It could be a couple of different things going on including mounts and half shaft bearing that add to the flare. Check the front and side motor mounts.

I also don't condone mixing ATFs, especially those with greatly varied viscosity points. I recommend for you to start with DW1 on the 3x3 and do a change and fill every 10k miles. Read the threads thoroughly if you plan on doing racing fluid.

delauren667

Thanks 1KLRTOY and ur inputs. I got a good deal buying this vehicle from my cousin. I'm from Canada and once the weather get warmer, I'll try a 3x3 Redline D4 tranny flush. I have studied this tread, but what is a DWI?

delauren667

My bad. Honda DW-1 or Redline Racing ATF D4 3x3 tranny flush?

Majofo

If it were me, I'd go with the thinner DW1 if you haven't bought the ATF yet.

1KLRTOY

DW-1 is the Honda fluid, I would suggest using Redline as its the best ATF you can buy and is full synthetic. If you have cold weather you should use a mixture of lightweight and regular racing with one or two quarts of Redline D4 total for the 3X3 flushes. The racing is type F with no friction modifier and the D4 has the modifier, you just don't want very much friction modifier as that is what causes the slippage and wear on the clutch packs.https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/ If you haven't seen this post yet it will explain the mixture to you. I hope this helps.

Majofo

Mix lw and regular type F.. good luck with that.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I was running Type F and had a 5x3 done (1x3 at 147K, 148K, 149K, 150K, 165K)....after installing the B&M transmission cooler, I starter getting some flaring during 2nd to 3rd shifts when the transmission fluid hadnt warmed up....when warmed up, there was no more flaring...

I was going to do another 1x3 at 180K, but I ended up getting 2D4 and 1 Type F and did a 1x3 at 177K....

after about 50 odd miles of driving, there was no more flaring, the quick shifts were back....

going forward, am gonna do a 1x3 every 15K miles with 2xType F and 1xD4...

Majofo

whore

1KLRTOY

Its the same fluid, just a lighter viscosity according to Redline. A colder climate would require a slightly thinner fluid, a warmer area can use racing and D4 with great results..

pwr2panda

^^^ man i wish i would have known this prior. did a 3x3 with redline d4 several months ago and now my trans is slipping/gone...wonder if it's the cold weather that's been an issue with the d4s heavier viscosity?

I hate cars

D4 is the same viscosity as the stock Z1 and in extremely cold areas it will be a little thinner than the factory fill.

Racing (type F) is thicker than stock.

LW racing (type F) is thinner than stock.

If you want a type F that's stock viscosity, most are. Redline is one of the few that's thicker or thinner but no "regular" viscosity.

Amso has a good Type F that's factory viscosity so no mixing is required.

I saw your post on your transmission problems. Don't you think if high viscosity was the problem you would see the biggest problems when it's at it's thickest when cold and not when hot as yours was? The switches help with rough cold shifts so I'm guessing you're on the original switches at that mileage. You have to do both switches and the good fluid if you want it to last. There's a chance the fluid can worsen the inherent problems with these transmissions on old switches. At 124,000 miles I just did them for the 3rd time and what a difference once again. I'm going to start doing them every 1-2 years.