Hey everybody,

Within the next two weeks I'm going to be changing the clutch, rear main seal, master clutch cylinder, and slave cylinder in my '05 6MT TL. I just wanted to make sure if I have the right parts to do the job. If there are other things I should change when I do this job, please let me know! For example, I'm not sure if it's okay to change just the master clutch cylinder. Are there other things that typically get changed along with the master clutch cylinder such as any o-rings, gaskets, etc.??

1. Clutch Assembly: 22105-PGE-325 (which I believe comes with the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing)
2. Pilot Bearing: 91006-PGE-008
3. Master Clutch Cylinder: 46920-S7A-A05
4. Slave Cylinder: 46930-SDP-A01
5. Rear Main Seal: 91214-RKG-003 (I believe this supersedes 91214-RCA-A01).
6. Transmission Shaft Output Seal?: 91308-P3R-T01 (Was recommended to change it along with the rear main seal)
7. Clutch Alignment Tool: ???
8. Transmission Fluid: I bought 3 bottles of AC Delco 10-4014 last year, so I should be good with that.

Thanks in advance for your input, I really appreciate it! I just want to get this job done correctly and not buy any incorrect parts.

If it helps, my TL is just south of 235,000 miles.

 

EDIT: I was just reading another post about going with LuK OEM clutch kit and flywheel. I'm not sure what the status of my flywheel is, but it seems like it's recommended by other members here. Should I opt for LuK clutch + flywheel over OEM clutch set?

 

Luk clutch is OEM

 

Yeah I found that out shortly after making the first edit lol. I should've done a bit more reading before posting. That was my fault.

Does that mean the Honda Flywheel is also LuK?

 

If you do you will save $$ over buying Acura/Honda OEM parts.
Go to RockAuto.com, input your vehicle data and see for yourself.
All the OEM timing belt components for my 2G CL were well over $350. purchased the Aisin TB kit from rockAuto, which included everything I needed for $185 SHIPPED. Look in the 'vendor' area for a further RA 5% discount coupon.

 

Thanks for the input!

I was going to go through CarolinaClutch but I've never heard of them so I don't know if they're legit or not. Does RockAuto ship relatively quickly? I'd like to have the part before the 26th

 

Go with RockAuto, the LuK clutch kit and dual mass flywheel are the OEM parts which your car was built with and can be had (from RockAuto) for well under $500.

 

same place where I bought my my clutch kit and flywheel. and yes, Luk is the oem clutch.

 

Dual Mass Flywheel (LuK DMF062):

• $230.76 - Carolina Clutch
• $205.79 - Rock Auto

Clutch Kit (LuK L08047):

• $194.40 - Carolina Clutch
• $173.79 - Rock Auto

 

Thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it . It makes sense to go through Rock Auto since it's cheaper than Carolina Clutch. Is it recommended to get new Flywheel bolts as well or is that just for those who are more cautious?

Also, is there anything else I need before I pull the trigger and get the parts I listed above? Sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to be able to do this once and not find out I'm missing something.

 

I got new bolts; they're not very expensive and I didn't want to get through the job only to have a bolt break during torquing.

Regarding other stuff, what kind of condition are your engine and transmission mounts in? They are much easier to replace when the transmission is out of the car.

 

I'll definitely get new bolts too then. As for motor/transmission mounts, I haven't experienced any problems with them since I took ownership of the car. I changed the side motor mount but am not sure when the transmission and rear motor mounts were last changed.

 

I just made a post on this..LUK is the way to go.

 

thanks, I’ll definitely check the video out!

 

I noticed in your video you said that you went bought an OEM pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Is this just being cautious or is there a general concern over the quality of these bearings? I don't have a bearing press so not sure how I'd go about getting the pilot bearing pulled out if it's already pressed in

 

That's just me being cautious...I have no info on how reliable the supplied bearings are.

 

That's fair. I was just under the impression that since LUK clutches are OEM the bearings would be as well.

 

The car shifts like a dream, the power is there and no more slipping in the higher RPM ranges. I fell in love with my car again and was finding every excuse possible to just go on a drive. The clutch change went smoothly, or so I thought.

While in reverse and the steering wheel turned all the way to the right, I heard what sounded like a serious grinding noise coming from underneath as I gave it some gas. Not sure if this is due to the clutch change or if its because of something else. I was also on a slight decline and the car was rolling forward so that could be it too, but I was already in reverse at that point. Any thoughts? I tried researching but couldn't really come to a solid answer. I tried recreating the noise but was only able to do it one more time out of ~20 attempts or so.

Some members suggested putting the car into a forward gear first before shifting into reverse. I tend to do that but I don't remember doing so this time when the grinding first occurred. Thanks everyone!

 

Perhaps it's the power steering since you have it cranked over to one side!

 

Thankfully that seems to be the case, doesn’t make a grinding noise when in reverse while the steering is straight or slightly turned . I’m just a bit annoyed because I replaced the rack and pinion two years ago and changed the whole pump earlier this year 😭😭. Guess I’ll take a look at the pump again and hopefully another pump will fix the issue

 

I take back my previous post.. the car made the grinding noise with the steering wheel straight. Only appears to happen when the revs hit 2000 RPM.

I recorded two videos (one with the windows open and one with them closed):

1) Windows open: 2) Windows closed: