everyone drinks and drives, I wonder why parking lots at clubs and bars are always full.

I've been pulled over blew past the limit and the cops offered me a ride home lol.

 

Dickhead

 

 

Everyone, that's a lot of folks...trying to justify that you drive drunk with a statement like that is really idiotic, go back to the hole...

 

3am clubs are closing, plastered people walking to their cars lol

my buddy passed out at an intersection only got a $2000 fine and suspended licence for a month didn't stop him from driving.

come to Alberta you'll see what I what I'm talking about

 

You just don't get it...and apparently law enforcement in Alberta doesn't get it...because others are doing it, and your buddy "only" got a $2000 fine and one month suspension (how much did his insurance go up?) doesn't make it right or even advisable, it is fucking stupid! And sooner or later, one of you stupid drunk driving Canadian idiots will hit someone and kill them, think they'll only get a $2000 fine then? Keep talking, just more evidence how stupid you are.

 

Never asked him about the insurance but, I'm pretty sure he can afford it he just picked up a brand new super snake lol.

If I hit someone I'll probably get 6 month house arrest (1/3 days for good behaviour) I work at home anyways lol, and probation for a couple years not that I want to hit someone...

 

motor mount issues are greatly hyped on azine. I replaced mine for mega $ and noticed DIDDLY SQUAT difference.

Therefore I say, unless you are sure you have a bad mount then DON'T BOTHER.. And its hard to tell if you have a bad motor mount because most the time they dont break. And that is really when they need to be replaced.. However! the rubber can become a bit harder and less flexible as time goes on, but it doesnt mean it is broken.

And the only other thing to do is make sure any vacuum lines are connected. The mounts stiffen when vacuum is applied.. like when starting. At least 1 or 2 do from what a mechanic told me.

So no, I disagree.. Motor mounts don't necessarily have to be bad at X number of miles. Only if you "want" them to be bad... IN that case, go ahead and replace them. I mean really.. If the mounts on a GM 350 foot pound of torque engine doesn't go bad after 200k miles, then no way a Honda motor mount is bad at 70k or 100k miles unless Honda is ignorant.

so stop bang'n the drum unless you know what you are talking about.

 

I mostly agree with you that people prematurely change out mounts just like air filters. However, it seems like all it takes is the slightest amount of wheelhop and my mount is broken. It's so bad if I get even a little hop for a second I know there's a 50% chance at the next light I'm going to feel a broken mount. Right now it's broken. I take off very easy to avoid moving the engine around and damaging things like hoses and wiring. If I punch it and let off the engine clunks back down into place and these mounts aren't 2 yrs old. I was really hoping it would be a vacuum line as you suggested but it wasn't.

About GMs mounts, most of their RWD setups hold tons of torque but they're a different design. My car made roughly 365lbs stock and now it makes roughly 740lbs of torque going by the flywheel rating with a standard 20% loss. I still use stock mounts, no torque strap except at the track. Why do the same mounts designed for the 180lb of torque NA Buick V6 hold 4x that amount of torque? They're captive mounts. Sure, there's rubber to isolate the engine from the chassis in normal driving conditions but even a healthy stock GN would make the mount on one side go metal to metal and this metal to metal contact (a "hook in a hole") limits movement, not allowing enough movement to tear or break a mount no matter how much power is run through it. The downside is under heavy to full throttle you get more engine vibration inside the car.

Acura's goals were different since they're geared more toward the luxury end of things. They're designed to not make metal to metal contact at any point and to better isolate the engine. That means more travel and softer rubber both of which increase the chances of a broken mount. Plus wheelhop doesn't usually destroy engine mounts on a RWD car. It's just two very different designs with different goals. I surely wish Acura made stronger mounts. The good thing is it rarely causes additional NVH, at least not in my case.

Also, about vacuum stiffening the mounts , it would have to be the other way around. The engine pulls more vacuum at idle and almost zero at full throttle. Vacuum should soften the mounts for idle when you notice vibrations the most and when there's very little demand for the mounts to transmit torque. They should firm up at heavy throttle for better response and less likely to tear.

 

So you're ok with risking other peoples lives as long as the penalty isn't too great so you can have your fun drunk driving? I like beating up drunk drivers, it's happened many times and the cops out here think it's funny and the worst that's happened is they fake arrested me in front of a crowd and drove me to my car. It's too bad we don't live closer to one another. You could do your thing and I could do my thing.

 

I hardly see anything funny about drunk driving, and your cavalier attitude towards it is the one that gets you shot when you kill someone's kid.

 

Cool story, thanks for sharing that was a really interesting story.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

He's fcuked.

 

you deserve a cookie.

 

^ You should get some help

 

 

Hands Free Link is Bluetooth and the 04 TL has it. it is a known problem child on the car due to solder quality issues...

and having the transmission replaced under warranty is not exactly repair free.

 

Nice! I'm sure the curb "ONLY" took out a wheel bearing and didn't take out a control arm or hub assembly, but either way I'm sure your Acura boy did it for free.

Keep it classy! Ever more reason to drink and drive.

That's a great story! Please do again.

Is this the same buddy who you're way to cheap to pay and he just does free work for you?

You should take that cookie with you. It will help suck up some of that alcohol from your stomach this weekend.

 

Sorry, however there's been plenty of people that have blown mounts at 60-120K. There's a range of symptoms of bad acura/honda motor mounts and varies to other car companies because um Design. If you power brake a car with a motor mount failure best believe you will know. In these cars it will sound as if the engine is banging out of the mounts. ALL mounts have flex, they absorb vibrations. IF they were super stiff your nuts will get a good massage. You know, Polyurethane mounts.. If we owned GM's, then this wouldn't be acurazine..

 

I already said "unless you know for sure your mounts are bad, then don't bother". But if you hear and feel it banging out the mounts, as you said, then you know they are bad. so replace them then.. reading comprehension buddy. haha

Also, you should be able to see your engine shift with throttle pressure.

Anyway, I should probably correct 1 thing I said. I said I didn't notice squat diddly, but actually, by SOTP method, maybe I noticed a small difference, like it was slightly smoother.. but too hard too tell.

 

best thing to do is see if Acura has a write up on what role vacuum plays in motor mounts.

 

I just searched for it. It's a simple on/off, soft/firm control based on engine rpm. At idle vacuum is applied to the mount to soften it. When the rpms go above 800-1,000rpm the solenoid closes, cutting off vacuum, and releases the vacuum from the line, firming up the mount.

I would be imterested to see how the ECU deals with very cold starts where the idle rpms might be above 1,000rpm. Supposedly the difference from soft to firm is very noticeable. I'm going to test mine out now.

 

Just tested it out. So there is vacuum at high idle, roughly 1,000rpm. I unplugged the vacuum line to the solenoid to relieve the mounts of vacuum once the engine was warm and idle was normal speed. Then of course I did the same tests with them functioning normally.

So with the mounts inactive there was a small difference in park/neutral. I had to go back and forth a few times to make sure there was a difference. Next I put it in drive and this is where the differences really started. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel, center console, and pedals. Next was in drive with the AC on and the car not only had more vibration but there was a hum like the whole cabin was resonating. I did the AC in park and it was about the same as in drive without the AC, maybe a little worse.

So in the worst case scenario, drive with the AC on and all electrical running I would say the vibration was like a cheap 4 cylinder economy car, borderline unacceptable for any car. In drive it was comparable to a cheap car.

I also checked for vacuum with the solenoid unplugged (electrically) and it fails closed/firm.

Off topic but the EVAP solenoid makes a noise almost identical to injector/valve train noise. With it unplugged, there is no tick from under the hood, it sounds like a Honda with no valve train/injector noise which is weird. That's engine cover on and hood down standing at the front tire. I might wrap it in foam and see if I can knock the noise down. It's literally louder than my valve train and injectors. I wonder if this gets mistaken for valve train noise. It started purging just a few minutes after a cold start.

A bunch of useless information lol.

 

bummmmmmmp

It was a different friend and, getting a discount doesn't make it "free" I'm still paying.

drove as drunk fuck on new years and, my birthdays on the 11th.

guess who's going to do more drunk driving?

just wanted to let you guys know that I'm still alive.

also picked up a new 3 series.

 

Drunk driving FTL.

 

Go troll the BMW forum. This thread is closed.