Thinking of getting into a 3rd gen TL
#1
Thinking of getting into a 3rd gen TL
Alright guys, so currently I drive an '03 Maxima SE which I've had for a couple years & want something newer and with lower km. I am thinking of getting a 04-08 TL because its the closest thing to my maxima and Nissan never made a decent max after '03.
Now these are cars that I am specifically looking at are:
1) 2008 Acura TL Type-S (KBP) - 6spd, with about 135km or 83mi, absolutely mint and asking for $18k
2) 2008 Acura TL Type-S (NBP) - 6spd, with about 110km or 68mi, near perfect condition and asking $18k also
3) 2005 Acura TL Base (AM) - 5spd auto, only 37km or 22mi, perfect inside & out with the A-Spec lip kit and asking $16k
Now I've done a bit of research for these vehicles and this is what I've found common, please correct me or add additional comments on other areas to look for as well as what prices I should aim for these vehicles:
- Compliance bushings (seems like a fairly common problem)
- Power Steering racks (I believe there was a recall for this?)
- Engine oil-pump seal (from what I've seen only Type-S & under hard driving)
- Rear main seal (can be avoided with changing the PCV valve)
- 3rd gear syncro on 6MT (can be fixed the GM syncro if not horrible?)
- 5AT Slippage (replace pressure switches & 3x3 fill/drain to avoid?)
- Bluetooth HFL draining the batteries (does this affect 07-08 models too?)
I'd really appreciate if you guys took the time to comment and address anything that I'm missing, looking forward to joining the TL group
Now these are cars that I am specifically looking at are:
1) 2008 Acura TL Type-S (KBP) - 6spd, with about 135km or 83mi, absolutely mint and asking for $18k
2) 2008 Acura TL Type-S (NBP) - 6spd, with about 110km or 68mi, near perfect condition and asking $18k also
3) 2005 Acura TL Base (AM) - 5spd auto, only 37km or 22mi, perfect inside & out with the A-Spec lip kit and asking $16k
Now I've done a bit of research for these vehicles and this is what I've found common, please correct me or add additional comments on other areas to look for as well as what prices I should aim for these vehicles:
- Compliance bushings (seems like a fairly common problem)
- Power Steering racks (I believe there was a recall for this?)
- Engine oil-pump seal (from what I've seen only Type-S & under hard driving)
- Rear main seal (can be avoided with changing the PCV valve)
- 3rd gear syncro on 6MT (can be fixed the GM syncro if not horrible?)
- 5AT Slippage (replace pressure switches & 3x3 fill/drain to avoid?)
- Bluetooth HFL draining the batteries (does this affect 07-08 models too?)
I'd really appreciate if you guys took the time to comment and address anything that I'm missing, looking forward to joining the TL group
#3
While the Type-S is a very nice car, I was open to any 3G TL when I was looking. Of course I would have preferred a 6spd S, but I was lucky enough to to have found an 04 base (automatic) with 16k miles on it.
I simply couldn't walk on the car because, after all- it is basically brand new.
Haven't looked back since and I'm 100% happy with the car.
Ultimately, the choice is yours, since you'll be driving it.
I simply couldn't walk on the car because, after all- it is basically brand new.
Haven't looked back since and I'm 100% happy with the car.
Ultimately, the choice is yours, since you'll be driving it.
#4
While the Type-S is a very nice car, I was open to any 3G TL when I was looking. Of course I would have preferred a 6spd S, but I was lucky enough to to have found an 04 base (automatic) with 16k miles on it.
I simply couldn't walk on the car because, after all- it is basically brand new.
Haven't looked back since and I'm 100% happy with the car.
Ultimately, the choice is yours, since you'll be driving it.
I simply couldn't walk on the car because, after all- it is basically brand new.
Haven't looked back since and I'm 100% happy with the car.
Ultimately, the choice is yours, since you'll be driving it.
I mean currently my Maxima is AT and I'm happy with it most of the time but I keep thinking about the 6spd as it will linger in my head
How long have you had your TL?
#6
but the AM 5AT is very enticing due to the low km
#7
I've owned this particular TL since September of 2014. Not very long, but long enough to love it.
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#8
I'd probably go with 2 if i were in your shoes since it's less mileage. but honestly would be happy with either. Make sure the 105K maintenace has been done for the best bang on buck on 2. (hell it'd better be done on 1).
#9
even the 05 should probably have it done since I heard it has to be done every 7 years regardless of mileage
I'm thinking of asking 16 for both Type-S's, too low? contingent on the fact the cars have service history's and look good mechanically
#10
oh.. shit.. stupid american in me I apologize, I looked at km and thought it was mi! you found some even GREATER cars! Make sure you do PPI's on either car you look at though.
The lower the better
The lower the better
#11
can I get it done at an Acura dealer? cause my mechanic's shop is kinda far from the Type-S's
#13
i wouldn't even look at the base version, go type s, especially if they are manuals! there are just so many features included on the type s.
and between the two type s cars, i would go for the kbp without question. it's my favorite color up there with wdp and just looks good. black gets super dirty super quick
and between the two type s cars, i would go for the kbp without question. it's my favorite color up there with wdp and just looks good. black gets super dirty super quick
#14
yup that's what's really gonna sway me to either car, but knowing me i'm probably gonna fall in love with the 6MT, I don't drive long distances and rarely in traffic so for my commute I know the 6MT will be pretty baller
#15
i wouldn't even look at the base version, go type s, especially if they are manuals! there are just so many features included on the type s.
and between the two type s cars, i would go for the kbp without question. it's my favorite color up there with wdp and just looks good. black gets super dirty super quick
and between the two type s cars, i would go for the kbp without question. it's my favorite color up there with wdp and just looks good. black gets super dirty super quick
I used to like black but KBP has grown on me so much haha, WDP would be nice but haven't come across any 6MT
#16
Don't wait too long to make up your mind, or some of the options may be gone as these cars tend to sell fast. Especially low mileage 6 speeds. My vote would be for #2, as the mileage is lower.
#18
I'd go with #2.
This is the 05 you mentioned eh? It looks mint!
2005 Acura TL - ONLY 37000 km. A-Spec. Superb Condition. | used cars & trucks | City of Toronto | Kijiji
This is the 05 you mentioned eh? It looks mint!
2005 Acura TL - ONLY 37000 km. A-Spec. Superb Condition. | used cars & trucks | City of Toronto | Kijiji
#20
hahaha yes that's the 05!
Well the KBP Type-S has been for sale for about 9 months the NBP around 3 months
Something I noticed about the NBP is that the "Type-S" badge is sitting below the "TL" badge which is leading me to believe it may have been in an accident, I need to go and check out thoroughly in person to make sure though
So are there any other issues I didn't address? Btw thank you to everyone for your feedback
Well the KBP Type-S has been for sale for about 9 months the NBP around 3 months
Something I noticed about the NBP is that the "Type-S" badge is sitting below the "TL" badge which is leading me to believe it may have been in an accident, I need to go and check out thoroughly in person to make sure though
So are there any other issues I didn't address? Btw thank you to everyone for your feedback
#22
Oops, I didn't see that the 5AT had far less miles. I meant that I'd choose #2 lol, being the lesser mileage out of the 6MTs. As you have noted though, check for the third gear pop, or if you can get service records, I think there was a TSB on the 3rd gear synchro which dealers replaced
#23
Oops, I didn't see that the 5AT had far less miles. I meant that I'd choose #2 lol, being the lesser mileage out of the 6MTs. As you have noted though, check for the third gear pop, or if you can get service records, I think there was a TSB on the 3rd gear synchro which dealers replaced
My thinking was that if it was a rare occurrence GM syncromesh would fix it
I think I'm gonna drop the 5AT off the list, don't want another auto, I bought my current car cause I couldn't find a clean 6spd and don't wanna do it again
#25
has everyone gotten their 3rd gear syncro replaced by the dealer due to the TSB? Can I get it done even if it perhaps wasn't done already? I thought you're pretty much out of luck if it ever shit the bed
My thinking was that if it was a rare occurrence GM syncromesh would fix it
I think I'm gonna drop the 5AT off the list, don't want another auto, I bought my current car cause I couldn't find a clean 6spd and don't wanna do it again
My thinking was that if it was a rare occurrence GM syncromesh would fix it
I think I'm gonna drop the 5AT off the list, don't want another auto, I bought my current car cause I couldn't find a clean 6spd and don't wanna do it again
If during your inspection of the vehicles the 3rd gear pops out a lot, I'd stay away from that one.
#26
Btw, to any members who live in the GTA of Ontario, are there any mechanics who are familiar with the TL who know what to look for in a PPI?
#27
Dude get one of the 08 type S's man....
come on.. the 08 is loaded with way more features than a base 05.. plus the manuals have brembo brakes, faster, and I forget, dont they have some kind of dynamic package too? ..anyway, way more features. Definitely worth the extra 2k & extra km.
come on.. the 08 is loaded with way more features than a base 05.. plus the manuals have brembo brakes, faster, and I forget, dont they have some kind of dynamic package too? ..anyway, way more features. Definitely worth the extra 2k & extra km.
#29
Sweet TL you got FamilyGuy, saw your build & I'm digging that boot & knob combo
Yeah, I'm pretty strict when it comes to maintenance, all depends on how the vehicles were maintained beforehand. Are there special attention areas with the Type-S?
Yeah, I'm pretty strict when it comes to maintenance, all depends on how the vehicles were maintained beforehand. Are there special attention areas with the Type-S?
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FamilyGuy (04-22-2015)
#30
The "History" of the car is whats Most important.
I would go for Door #1... I wont own a BLACK CAR AGAIN.....
To me- Type-S Only.
And MUST have NAV.
Which the Type-S comes with "LOADED"
If you get a base 2004-2008-
I "HIGHLY SUGGEST NAV"
There is a Guy on here selling a 2007 MRP 6-Speed TL Type-S
With 16,000 Miles. $25,000. I wish I had the $$$$
I LOVE mine- BUT-AUTO
ME:
#1 WDP
#2 MRP & KBP
Last edited by JD TL-S; 04-22-2015 at 07:40 PM.
#31
The "History" of the car is whats Most important.
I would go for Door #1... I wont own a BLACK CAR AGAIN.....
To me- Type-S Only.
And MUST have NAV.
Which the Type-S comes with "LOADED"
If you get a base 2004-2008-
I "HIGHLY SUGGEST NAV"
There is a Guy on here selling a 2007 MRP 6-Speed TL Type-S
With 16,000 Miles. $25,000. I wish I had the $$$$
I LOVE mine- BUT-AUTO
ME:
#1 WDP
#2 MRP & KBP
#32
Special attention areas...none that comes to mind specific to a type s. Usual TL stuff...compliance bushings...auto trans press switches...motor mounts...the occasional sensor here and there...oil pump gasket leaks...cracked dashboards...3rd gear popping out issue (this one maybe type s only? idk)...front center spark plug getting loose issue...not sure what else, IIRC that's the main bulk. These cars are pretty reliable overall.
#33
Thx!
Special attention areas...none that comes to mind specific to a type s. Usual TL stuff...compliance bushings...auto trans press switches...motor mounts...the occasional sensor here and there...oil pump gasket leaks...cracked dashboards...3rd gear popping out issue (this one maybe type s only? idk)...front center spark plug getting loose issue...not sure what else, IIRC that's the main bulk. These cars are pretty reliable overall.
Special attention areas...none that comes to mind specific to a type s. Usual TL stuff...compliance bushings...auto trans press switches...motor mounts...the occasional sensor here and there...oil pump gasket leaks...cracked dashboards...3rd gear popping out issue (this one maybe type s only? idk)...front center spark plug getting loose issue...not sure what else, IIRC that's the main bulk. These cars are pretty reliable overall.
And with the spark plug thing, from what I remember its just the 5th cylinder. Does this have to be re-tightened every X miles or is it a one time thing?
#35
#37
The plug's been a one time thing for me, but it may get loose once a while, not sure. You'll hear it, sounds like a loud valve tick.
Compliance bushings aren't a big deal and not too expensive. My originals lasted 90k miles, though they usually avg 60k miles IIRC. Replace as needed, same with motor mounts and oil pump gaskets.
3rd gear, many here fix with GM fluid, no issues. Remove the check valve from the slave cylinder and replace the clutch + flywheel if and when it starts to slip. Go aftermarket if you'd like to reduce drivetrain load and put more power down to the wheels.
Autos, what I see is fluid and pressure switches every ~30k miles or so, search and read if you go that route.
Cracked dashboards are probably the biggest pisser off, since it's pricey and just a straight replacement item. Nothing to have fun with.
That's all I can think of. If you get a type s 6mt, both engine and tranny are pretty good and reliable, car's good and reliable overall. Just do the basic stuff right away, oil change, brake / clutch / tranny fluid, what else...save up on the side for the timing belt / water pump / spark plug service at 105k miles and good to go. Start modding, keep it stock, whatever you want.
Ps: make sure whichever you buy is legit, no major prior accidents, clean title, etc. give it a good once over, or have a mechanic do it, before you buy, you know the drill it's a used car, so don't expect it to be perfect etc. just want to avoid any big surprises.
Compliance bushings aren't a big deal and not too expensive. My originals lasted 90k miles, though they usually avg 60k miles IIRC. Replace as needed, same with motor mounts and oil pump gaskets.
3rd gear, many here fix with GM fluid, no issues. Remove the check valve from the slave cylinder and replace the clutch + flywheel if and when it starts to slip. Go aftermarket if you'd like to reduce drivetrain load and put more power down to the wheels.
Autos, what I see is fluid and pressure switches every ~30k miles or so, search and read if you go that route.
Cracked dashboards are probably the biggest pisser off, since it's pricey and just a straight replacement item. Nothing to have fun with.
That's all I can think of. If you get a type s 6mt, both engine and tranny are pretty good and reliable, car's good and reliable overall. Just do the basic stuff right away, oil change, brake / clutch / tranny fluid, what else...save up on the side for the timing belt / water pump / spark plug service at 105k miles and good to go. Start modding, keep it stock, whatever you want.
Ps: make sure whichever you buy is legit, no major prior accidents, clean title, etc. give it a good once over, or have a mechanic do it, before you buy, you know the drill it's a used car, so don't expect it to be perfect etc. just want to avoid any big surprises.
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 04-23-2015 at 12:40 AM.
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mtiaz (04-23-2015)
#38
This is exactly the information I was hoping for^ ! Greatly appreciated FamilyGuy
The only repair I'm on the fence about is the oil pump gasket since it is quite labour intensive
From what I remember the check valve delete is usually meant for people who drive their cars little bit harder because of the lag between gears, correct me if I'm wrong but does this mod also reduce clutch wear?
As for the 105k service, these cars are still under that km mark but it is stated by Honda/Acura that it should be done every 7 years regardless so I believe I should check service records for this being done already or does this seem unreasonable?
As for being a student, the mods I'm probably gonna do are your shift boot/knob, stage 2 exhaust, wheel spacers and that's probably the end of the list until I work next summer
Yup, my main concern is the NBP TL-S due to the misplaced badges & the car not having any accidents on records but I do know what to look for with cars that have been rear-ended as my moms CR-V has been so I don't think it'll be a problem to point out anything quickly
I'm probably going to get the inspection done by my local Honda dealer (know them very well) or the Acura dealer down the street from them as the tech's would know common problem areas
The only repair I'm on the fence about is the oil pump gasket since it is quite labour intensive
From what I remember the check valve delete is usually meant for people who drive their cars little bit harder because of the lag between gears, correct me if I'm wrong but does this mod also reduce clutch wear?
As for the 105k service, these cars are still under that km mark but it is stated by Honda/Acura that it should be done every 7 years regardless so I believe I should check service records for this being done already or does this seem unreasonable?
As for being a student, the mods I'm probably gonna do are your shift boot/knob, stage 2 exhaust, wheel spacers and that's probably the end of the list until I work next summer
Yup, my main concern is the NBP TL-S due to the misplaced badges & the car not having any accidents on records but I do know what to look for with cars that have been rear-ended as my moms CR-V has been so I don't think it'll be a problem to point out anything quickly
I'm probably going to get the inspection done by my local Honda dealer (know them very well) or the Acura dealer down the street from them as the tech's would know common problem areas
Last edited by mtiaz; 04-23-2015 at 07:26 AM.
#39
Yea the oil pump gasket is a bit intensive / expensive. I'll be doing mine in a couple of weeks. Car still drives fine and doesn't leak when parked. Do you need it? You'll see the leak on the passenger side of the oil pan, in the corner. If no oil spots, you're good.
I did my timing belt service based on time as well (~7 years) rather than mileage, had just under 90k miles at the time. Some argue about this, but I'd rather not take chances on a rubber belt. Materials do break down over time.
You shouldn't need wheel spacers unless you lower the car or get aftermarket wheels..?
Good eye on the badges. Hopefully it won't be because of a prior accident, it'll be just because previous owner de-badged the car and the dealer has no clue where they belong but wanted to replace them.
Either way, sounds like you're well on your way. Post some pics after you pick it up
I did my timing belt service based on time as well (~7 years) rather than mileage, had just under 90k miles at the time. Some argue about this, but I'd rather not take chances on a rubber belt. Materials do break down over time.
You shouldn't need wheel spacers unless you lower the car or get aftermarket wheels..?
Good eye on the badges. Hopefully it won't be because of a prior accident, it'll be just because previous owner de-badged the car and the dealer has no clue where they belong but wanted to replace them.
Either way, sounds like you're well on your way. Post some pics after you pick it up
Last edited by FamilyGuy; 04-23-2015 at 12:31 PM.
#40
That's pretty much the only reason why I want to get the car inspected so they can put it on their lift and see if there are leaks coming from that area or not
Yeah I'm totally with you on that cause rubber breaks down easily, if it hasn't been done I'm definitely gonna be shooting lower cause from what I heard it's anywhere from 600-900 to get it done but this would give me a chance to lower the overall cost when getting the oil-pump seal done
Well it depends on the car sits on its current wheels cause I would want the rims to sit flush at the fender or even a little bit more
For sure I'll keep you guys updated and if I find any more tempting TL's on the market
Yeah I'm totally with you on that cause rubber breaks down easily, if it hasn't been done I'm definitely gonna be shooting lower cause from what I heard it's anywhere from 600-900 to get it done but this would give me a chance to lower the overall cost when getting the oil-pump seal done
Well it depends on the car sits on its current wheels cause I would want the rims to sit flush at the fender or even a little bit more
For sure I'll keep you guys updated and if I find any more tempting TL's on the market