Sythetic Oil???
#1
Sythetic Oil???
Didn't know where to post this so i'll stick it here.
I was thinking about switching over to synthetic Oil. Anyone done this yet? Is there any special prep u have to do or just through some in on the next change?
Leme know fellas
I was thinking about switching over to synthetic Oil. Anyone done this yet? Is there any special prep u have to do or just through some in on the next change?
Leme know fellas
#6
My first and only change was to Royal Purple 5w20 with a Royal Purple filter. Everything runs smooth but it did before too so I don't see a difference. I hope all the hype was right about it giving me a longer interval for changing it.
...which to elaborate a bit on, I've went almost 2000 miles since the change and MID is just at 70%. So I still have to wait till 15% to see the actual mileage.
...which to elaborate a bit on, I've went almost 2000 miles since the change and MID is just at 70%. So I still have to wait till 15% to see the actual mileage.
#7
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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From: Houston, Texas
There has to be a million threads about engine oil. Anyways yes most people on these forums use synthetic, and most people use mobil 1 extended performance synthetic. And no don't use oem filter with synthetic
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#8
This article was posted a while back and it was pretty interesting for those who haven't seen it: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
As for synthetic...the switch can't hurt. I switched to RP 5-30 after exclusively running mobil 1 after reading that article. As of lately, I have switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 because RP isn't available locally any more...I swear the car runs smoother. It boggles my mind, but it does.
As for synthetic...the switch can't hurt. I switched to RP 5-30 after exclusively running mobil 1 after reading that article. As of lately, I have switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 because RP isn't available locally any more...I swear the car runs smoother. It boggles my mind, but it does.
#13
errr, ?
Thats a false statement on all sorts of epic proportions.
Member favorites for synthetic on this forum, include but not limited to...
1. Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic
2. Pennzoil Platinum
3. Amsoil
4. Castrol Syntec
5. Royal Purple
6. Whatever is cheapest/on sale...as long as its synthetic.
Member favorites for filter on this forum, include but not limited to...
1. Mobil 1 M1-110
2. Mobil 1 M1-104
3. Honda S2000 filter made by Filtech
4. Amsoil Ea013
5. K&N
6. Purolator PureOne
7. Anything that is NOT Fram (this includes oem filter, as it is Fram)
Basically, OP, youre going to find many opinions. The fact of the matter is, today's oil is top notch whether it be mineral or synthetic. To answer your question...No prep is required for changing over to synthetic. Based on your readings, make a decision youre comfortable with, because at the end of the day, with proper maintenance, you'll be fine with which ever oil you pick.
Thats a false statement on all sorts of epic proportions.
Member favorites for synthetic on this forum, include but not limited to...
1. Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic
2. Pennzoil Platinum
3. Amsoil
4. Castrol Syntec
5. Royal Purple
6. Whatever is cheapest/on sale...as long as its synthetic.
Member favorites for filter on this forum, include but not limited to...
1. Mobil 1 M1-110
2. Mobil 1 M1-104
3. Honda S2000 filter made by Filtech
4. Amsoil Ea013
5. K&N
6. Purolator PureOne
7. Anything that is NOT Fram (this includes oem filter, as it is Fram)
Basically, OP, youre going to find many opinions. The fact of the matter is, today's oil is top notch whether it be mineral or synthetic. To answer your question...No prep is required for changing over to synthetic. Based on your readings, make a decision youre comfortable with, because at the end of the day, with proper maintenance, you'll be fine with which ever oil you pick.
#15
Go with Castrol Sync + K&N Oil Filter, you'll be amaze the power that was hidden...
I enjoy more of my TL-S now than a year ago...
Beware, it'll make you break harder too, because the extra power makes you go too fast and most of the time, you'll have to hit the break to slow down... hahaha
I enjoy more of my TL-S now than a year ago...
Beware, it'll make you break harder too, because the extra power makes you go too fast and most of the time, you'll have to hit the break to slow down... hahaha
#18
#20
this topic has been beaten to death...
I personally think there's no need to change to synthetic if people follow the MID (which is around 5-6 k).
Used oil analysis has shown a good mineral/syn-blend oil offer enough protection at that point. I personally use Motorcraft 5W20, $12.50 for 5 quarts, great price for me.
As road rage stated, i think changing syntheic oil within 6k is really a waste of money and resources. People want to know more about oil should check his post, lots of valuable info.
Call me cheap, my other Lexus has been using synthetic since 30k and now 90k, i'm actually thinking of switching back to mineral oil as it has no MID, so i change it every 5k.
I personally think there's no need to change to synthetic if people follow the MID (which is around 5-6 k).
Used oil analysis has shown a good mineral/syn-blend oil offer enough protection at that point. I personally use Motorcraft 5W20, $12.50 for 5 quarts, great price for me.
As road rage stated, i think changing syntheic oil within 6k is really a waste of money and resources. People want to know more about oil should check his post, lots of valuable info.
Call me cheap, my other Lexus has been using synthetic since 30k and now 90k, i'm actually thinking of switching back to mineral oil as it has no MID, so i change it every 5k.
#21
This article was posted a while back and it was pretty interesting for those who haven't seen it: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Hi Ben. My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevant to what happens in the real world. The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this Falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the Falex test really test...???
Basically, OP, you’re going to find many opinions. The fact of the matter is, today's oil is top notch whether it be mineral or synthetic. Based on your readings, make a decision you’re comfortable with, because at the end of the day, with proper maintenance, you'll be fine with which ever oil you pick.
#23
I did my last oil change at the Authorized Shop in Covina, CA.
My 07 TL-S had 23875 miles, still had around 5% oil. This was just before moving to San Jose... And it as on Jan 5 or 6... I remember before I was moving that weekend, starting a new job on Monday Jan 12. And had to drive from LA to South Bay area.
I brought my Castrol Sync 5 Qt. and K&N Oil Filter. Castrol Oil got it in front the shop at Walmart and the K&N Oil Filter bought it from Autozone in Duarte, CA.
They change clean the engine bay, and check all parts and fill up the water and check the battery... Everything was done for less than 10 bucks I remember, I still have the invoice, if anybody wants proof, I can scan it...
So, they put a service reminder sticker, like April 7 or 8, or 27375 miles...
Now, my TL-S has almost 27,000 miles and the MID shows Oil Life 60% and this is like driving harder because never felt the extra power like before the last oil change.
As this pattern, I guess there would be about another 3 months before my next oil change... Maybe by 30,000?
Trust me, I feel that last oil change using Castrol Syn and K&N was totally worthy it.
My 07 TL-S had 23875 miles, still had around 5% oil. This was just before moving to San Jose... And it as on Jan 5 or 6... I remember before I was moving that weekend, starting a new job on Monday Jan 12. And had to drive from LA to South Bay area.
I brought my Castrol Sync 5 Qt. and K&N Oil Filter. Castrol Oil got it in front the shop at Walmart and the K&N Oil Filter bought it from Autozone in Duarte, CA.
They change clean the engine bay, and check all parts and fill up the water and check the battery... Everything was done for less than 10 bucks I remember, I still have the invoice, if anybody wants proof, I can scan it...
So, they put a service reminder sticker, like April 7 or 8, or 27375 miles...
Now, my TL-S has almost 27,000 miles and the MID shows Oil Life 60% and this is like driving harder because never felt the extra power like before the last oil change.
As this pattern, I guess there would be about another 3 months before my next oil change... Maybe by 30,000?
Trust me, I feel that last oil change using Castrol Syn and K&N was totally worthy it.
#25
What I meant was if u were going mobil 1 for example, u should SHOULD stick would mobil 1 filter.
Now I never heard of diffrent combo brand that would make your car perform better? If someone can comfirm this, that would be great.
I drive pretty hard and I use mobil 1 oil/filter. I usually change my oil every 3500-4000 miles. The MID still shows at least 40%. But I perfer changing it out more ofter just because I drive alot.
Now I never heard of diffrent combo brand that would make your car perform better? If someone can comfirm this, that would be great.
I drive pretty hard and I use mobil 1 oil/filter. I usually change my oil every 3500-4000 miles. The MID still shows at least 40%. But I perfer changing it out more ofter just because I drive alot.
Last edited by JwongTLS; 04-13-2009 at 06:35 PM.
#27
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,022
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From: Houston, Texas
Most name-brand oils, even conventional, are good enough for our engines and almost has the same effects and abilities as any other competitors does. Just make sure you get what you pay for such as your synthetic oil is actually 100% synthetic. Follow the MID and make sure you get the right filter for your oil. Don't get a conventional oil filter for synthetic oil. Different combos with oil and similar filters will not make a difference in anything on most occasions. Though most people like to keep with the oil's brand filter just to keep a consistent opinion on the performance of the oil and since they're deals for them.
#29
Well, not really, I've been using Castrol for many years, but not Synthetic... Cuz, my old cars didn't have the need.
I remember back in high school, when most of the European Rally cars were using Castrol and F1 too... So I've tried since then...
I remember back in high school, when most of the European Rally cars were using Castrol and F1 too... So I've tried since then...
#31
Here's a thought about that test as it is designed to indicate only one aspect of oil quality:
Hi Ben. My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevant to what happens in the real world. The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this Falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the Falex test really test...???
This sums it all up, use any oil and you'll be good to go!
Hi Ben. My name is Roger Miller. I do work for Red Line Oil in Victoria. One of my clients passed on your enquiry. In a rough sense this test is used for grease not oil. It is like using a quarter mile drag strip to find the "best four wheel drive on the market." A real test but totally irrelevant to what happens in the real world. The addition of friction modifiers to the test bears this out. You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this Falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day. So what does the Falex test really test...???
This sums it all up, use any oil and you'll be good to go!
So very true. The 4 ball wear test was designed for gear oils. Bleach does exceptionally well in this test. It means squat for motor oils.
#32
I don't know where these horrible myths and lies come from. Switching from brand to brand in the same viscosity will make no difference whatsoever in power and mileage. No human is capable of telling a difference. Instead, we want to feel a difference from our $10/quart oil so we do.
It would take something like going from a 0w-20 to a 20-50 to really notice a difference.
Get real, with the same viscosity, somehow RP magically makes more hp? Impossible.
#33
^^ x2
Marketing + Placebo effect.
No human can notice a difference, may be not even on a testing machine, since those 0.1 hp or so increase out of 250+ hp can be explained by systematic error...
That say if i put in a dino Pennzoil and tell you that it's Amsoil or Royal Purple, people will start saying "i feel faster this and smoother that"
Marketing + Placebo effect.
No human can notice a difference, may be not even on a testing machine, since those 0.1 hp or so increase out of 250+ hp can be explained by systematic error...
That say if i put in a dino Pennzoil and tell you that it's Amsoil or Royal Purple, people will start saying "i feel faster this and smoother that"
#34
what kind of oil does it use now. I just got my car a few mths ago, i have an 04. if i go with the oil life % displayed the oil will prob last me a whole year? thats pretty long. is it semi-synthetic?
#36
I don't know where these horrible myths and lies come from. Switching from brand to brand in the same viscosity will make no difference whatsoever in power and mileage. No human is capable of telling a difference. Instead, we want to feel a difference from our $10/quart oil so we do.
It would take something like going from a 0w-20 to a 20-50 to really notice a difference.
Get real, with the same viscosity, somehow RP magically makes more hp? Impossible.
It would take something like going from a 0w-20 to a 20-50 to really notice a difference.
Get real, with the same viscosity, somehow RP magically makes more hp? Impossible.
#39
Nice Dude, another using Castrol Synth.... hey how do you like them by the way?
My first oil change was done at the dealership where I bought my car, and they use regular Acura aka Mobil...
My 2nd and 3rd oil change was done at the dealership near where I used to work, and they used Pennzoil...
Last oil change was done at Authorized Honda/Acura Service Shop near my old apartment and I brought my own oil... Castrol Synth 5W-20 and K&N filter...
And I love the difference.... would probably keep using Castrol, how about you?
My first oil change was done at the dealership where I bought my car, and they use regular Acura aka Mobil...
My 2nd and 3rd oil change was done at the dealership near where I used to work, and they used Pennzoil...
Last oil change was done at Authorized Honda/Acura Service Shop near my old apartment and I brought my own oil... Castrol Synth 5W-20 and K&N filter...
And I love the difference.... would probably keep using Castrol, how about you?