i have 6K on my 07 TL and going to be chnaging the OIL next 2 days. i was wanting to go with the MOBIL 1 synthertic with the m1 filter m1-110.

i was wondering woult it be bad to do that or not?

filter being replaced with that instead. i think it requires 5w-20 oil but not sure. wife has the car. about to go on a 1500mile road trip next week. is it ok to chnage from the OEM synthetic blend to full synthetic oil?


any ideas guys.

thanks

 

oil - 5w-20
Answer to going to full synth - yes.

 

synthetic is fine. I felt a lot comfortable leaving synthetic inside for over 3K miles (until the MID said it was time to replace it).

 

Go with Royal Purple (5w30)
and with a Honda S2000 Filter
inlinefour.com for the best price on this stuff, $6 for each bottle of oil and $9 for the filter

 

I have been using Synthetic for years. In the TL I like to try and use 0W20 as it gets through the cold engine quiker at initial startup.

 

cool

 

can i get away with 5 qts of oil??

 

5qts is enough. You need 4.5qt. For hot weather. Use 5W-30 Mobil 1

 

I trust Honda R&D. Use 5w-20 as they recommend.
Synthetic is good.
Royal Purple, Mobil 1 IMO.

 

The differ bewteen 5w20 and 5w30 is that the 5w20 is thinner. Meaning it meets the current emission req. and give better mpg. Meaning you probally get .001mpg better.

My TL say 5w30, RSX and TSX say 5w20 but I still use 5w30.

Also You will be fine with M1 and M1 filters. I changed to using Royal Purple from M1 and yes you do feel a difference.

 

My previous '05, and my newer '07 TL-S both say 5W-20. I think the OP is talking 3rd gen.
Hope you are right on with the Royal Purple. I just changed to it this weekend from Mobil 1. First time I've tried it. Really hard to find that particular weight around here. Finally found it at Jegs.

 

it is funny that you went to jegs since they sell it for $6.99 a quart, and I posted a site that sells it for $5.59 a quart, oh well another one of my posts ignored

 

$5.59 with shipping?

 

You're entirely too sensative.... :-)

As the above mentioned, add shipping and the wait factor and spending a few bucks more is easily justified.... Now, if it was free shipping and no tax then it would be worth the wait.

 

so jegs ships for free?

 

hmm I will stick to walmart or advance auto. $6.72 at wally world

 

A question for you guys. Since the job of oil is lubrication and to carry out contaminants and i think most oils fit the bill on that (whether it's dino or synthetic), wouldn't the filter then be the most important decision? If you're on a race track or have done mods, I can understand.

 

Yes the filter is just as importmant as oil. There are many great filters out there that will perform great under pressure.

 

Yes,
A filter will only accept so much particulate before its "flow" begins to get restricted and then eventually reduced to the point the filter and/or oil pump bypass valve opens.. That's why near all auto manufacturers specify you still change the oil/filter at the recommended intervals whether using synthetic or not.

Have you seen those M1 commercials where they state they drove the vehicles around the world $40K-60K miles etc. on one oil change.. What I would really like to know is how many time they changed the filter within that distance...?

As for different oils. Whether synthetic or not, different brands will/may have different additive packages that assist with anti-wear and/or anti-friction. Given most of our driving styles/conditions, most will not ever notice/recognize the benefits (plus or minus) etc.. Any name brand oil now days is going to be of good quality and provide adequate protection in a street/stock vehicle. As mentioned however, some oils are better formulated thus can be worth the extra $$ to many drivers given their engine use/abuse etc.. :-)

Best advice I was ever given about oil though (by some of the best engine builders I have ever worked with/learned from)
- Pick an oil then stick with that oil for the life of your engine. It doesn't matter if you change viscosity rating within the brand, just use the same brand to ensure you stick with their additive/formulation package.


Cheers

 

Something to consider here that I never thought of.

I recently traded my TL for a G37. The same synthetic vs. regular oil debates are going on in the G37 forum too.

A point was made that I have never considered - the factory recommended oil should be used for a certain amount of time in order for proper break-in and avoiding excessive oil consumption.

In the case of Infiniti, service techs are recommending waiting until 20K miles before changing to synthetic! Some guys even recommend going from regular to semi-synthetic, and then on to synthetic.

That surprises me as I have always changed to Mobil 1 at my first oil change, usually 3K miles. Whether this is the case with Honda/Acura, I can't say, but it may be a question worth asking.

I will say that I have never had an oil consumption problem in any of my Honda's or Acura's, so maybe this is just something peculiar to the G37's new engine. My wife's '07 MDX seems to be doing fine.

 

Yes alot of people say go to Dino, to Semi and then to Full syn.

Thats what I did. Catrol GTX to Castrol Syntec Blend to Mobil 1 then to RP

 

so do you notice anything different after putting in the Royal Purple oil. I am think of doing the same thing. Anyone know the part number of the S2000 that will work with the TL.

 

FYI, Jegs had it on sale. I threw away the receipt, but I believe it was around $5.50/qt., and I happened to be in the area of one of the retail stores. I really hadn't planned on buying RP on the day I was there. I just saw the sale price, and thought I'd try it.
Now, will that lower your blood pressure?

 

To be honest, I don't notice any difference.....but I haven't had it in long enough to check the gas mileage.

 

Yep, I have also heard the same as well. This is because the dino-oil presents more friction - necessary for break-ins, while the syn-oil presents less. As DND2984 mentioned, dino-->blend-->Syn may be ideal.

 

Yep, 5-30 in hot climes works, wally world M 1, 5 qt container for 20 dollar..

 

just got mine done at WALLY WORLD yesterday. m1 full synthetic and the m1 oil fiter. everything is perfect. cost me like 45 bucks but i had to buy the filter at advanced auto since they do not stock our filter. that cost me 10 bucks so a total of 55 bucks cheaper than the dealer and most places for the same thing.

my car drives smoother and i can tell the difference.

go MOBILE 1

 

You let the guy at WW actually touch your car? I wont even park near their lot!!!!

And the drain plug washer was replaced and torqued to what exactly???

 

i recently bought royal purple 5W20...i got to put it in asap

 

The Acura "oil change" techs probably hold the same experience level... And I seriously doubt many dealerships or shops in general "torque check" the drain plug following an oil change.

Rule of thumb - crank on the bolt until it cracks then back off a 1/4 turn...... :-)

 

Heh, torque wrench on drain plug?

Just use common sense. It doesn't have to be super tight. Just tighten it down with a normal size wrench until it's tight. Don't have to superman it but you don't want it finger tight either.

With the oil filter I usually just tighten them as much as I can using my hands. That seems to always work out perfect. If it's a real slick filter or hard to reach, tighten with your hands, then put the filter wrench and go a quarter turn.

 

this might be a dumb question...but what do they give you at the dealership when you just go in and say "I need to get my oil changed." Is it just something cheap, but good enough?

I'm just curious, I don't know much about cars...

 

Many times yes.
However, I have never had my vehicle serviced at a Honda/Acura dealership thus others can help you out, but I have heard that they do use "Honda" oil etc. Now this Honda oil is probably made by Penzoil or one of the other oil companies but non the less a decent oil that meets Honda specs. They will use genuine Honda filters as well..

Other dealerships/shops will obviously by in bulk but usually always a good, name brand oil. If in doubt, just ask them exactly what they use - it should be no secret.

 

If you really are in Georgia, 0W oil is a little excessive. The 0W20 is for extreme cold weather. I believe that stuff is rated to flow at 65 below 0.

You may be risking protection at higher temperatures that you run at more frequently.

 

With 18K miles on my '05 TL I just switched to 5w20 Mobil 1 and plan on changing it every 4k miles.

 

I just finished my break-in period oil change (I changed twice in the first 9000 miles).

I used Pennzoil Platinum (PP) 5W-20, and after a day of driving, I'm pretty impressed with the result. The car seemed to feel more agile and more responsive to the gas pedal. However, I do need more time to finalize my conclusion on PP. I used M1 Extended Performance 5W-30 at around 4500 miles.

BTW...
I did a lot of research when making this oil change. I really wanted to go for the German Castrol, but after many readings, I figured it might be too thick for our engine. In the end, I chose PP since it got an award (http://www.aftermarketnews.com/defau...e=art&id=79827) and also got a lot of good UOA results in BITOG. Many people probably know that PP, like M1 and many others, changed from group 4 to 3. PP changed this in early 2006, so that award was given to PP as a group 3 oil.

BITOG and other oil experts on AZ (Road Rage, Michael Wan) are not too hot on Royal Purple products, mainly due to its poor UOA and other reasons. So I chose to stay away from RP by their expertise on oil.

Note: The results above are a summary of my readings in the past few days. I'm NOT an oil expert.

 

i have heard stories from engine builders that Pennzoil leaves a yellow film. They said that its bad.

Any body know any thing about this?

 

yes i let Wally World change my oil. you have to think about WW is a multi billion dollar company. if the techs mess up guess what they will cut you a check for the repairs. this happen to me when they set a battery on my fender on my integra and dinged the paint. guess what 350.00 check for 3 small minor dings in paint. if they screw up they are fired and then they will fix it. so ya why not go to wally world. if you uncomfortable getting it done there watch them or go spend another 20-40 bucks more at a dealership that does the exact same thing change your oil.

and yes i have noticed a difference in the way my car drives with m1 full synthetic with m1 oil filter.

word of advice:
same service 1 place < same service more money in your pocket!!!!!!!!!!!

 

On a new vehicle, I normally do the first oil and filter change way early, but with Honda/Acura engines I follow manufacturer recommendations and keep the original break-in oil in for at least 5000 miles (assuming of course that the oil display percentage hasn't already gone to zero). After that, I've stuck with non-synthetic oil (with a rebate by the case) every 3000-4000 miles. These days, my concern is no longer the oil, it's the filter. In the end, I really don't think it matters. When's the last time you've heard of anyone's Honda/Acura engine failing?

 

I heard that is a very old problem of Pennzoil (like in the 70s), but Pennzoil never had such problems since.