A-Spec Steering Wheel installed
A-Spec Steering Wheel installed
Is anybody doing the whole A-spec conversion? i Just got my A-spec steering wheel installed yesterday and I will say that it is SOOO worth it if you have the normal leather steering wheel. It's alot thicker, feels better, and it just makes the car seem much sportier. If you can't feel any difference, at least it looks a whole lot neater than the stock steering wheel.
i ordered mine last week, it should come in on weds/thurs. they want $150 at the dealer to install it, and i think it is something i can do myself. HOWEVER, looking at the instructions it lists a "steering wheel puller" as a "possibly" needed tool and that the toe in/out settings may have to be adjusted after replacing the wheel.
i think i may just have it installed, seeing that $150 may cut alot of aggrivation, as i dont want any toe problems on my new T1R's.
let me know what you all think, and if that is a fair install price.
i think i may just have it installed, seeing that $150 may cut alot of aggrivation, as i dont want any toe problems on my new T1R's.
let me know what you all think, and if that is a fair install price.
Hey Ding, i started to do the install by myself, but as i took the bolts off, i tried pulling it and it wouldn't budge and so i was like "damn...i better not yank on this thing" so i put it back together and yea. i got mine installed last night at acura of seattle dealership for 119 (including tax). at first they quoted me at 150 cuz they say it takes 1.5 hours. but i called acura of bellevue and they said they only charge 107.89 plus tax. acura of seattle agreed to do a price match and yea i got it for cheap. go back and ask if they can price match because acura of seattle price matched...oh here's their phone number if that helps...
206.433.1000
www.acuraofseattle.com
206.433.1000
www.acuraofseattle.com
thats what i was expecting to hear. looks like i will have to pay for the install
either way i cant wait to get it, i don't think they will price match in MA what they are getting in WA.
what did you pay for the wheel if you dont mind me asking, i got mine for $333, taxes included?
thanks for your help/advice.

either way i cant wait to get it, i don't think they will price match in MA what they are getting in WA.
what did you pay for the wheel if you dont mind me asking, i got mine for $333, taxes included?
thanks for your help/advice.
yea, either way, 150 ain't TOO bad...but still..try to see if they'll price match cuz that's precious gas money! but i actually got mine off ebay from this one dude who apparently needed money real bad. he got it from acura of escondido and included that in the box he sent me. anyways, i paid 290 shipping included for a brand new a spec wheel. not too bad i must say. don't you love that silver mesh leather and the blue stitching action??
whoa is it really?? i drive a 6 MT and come to think of it, the stock steering wheel was pretty thick compared to my old tiburon and my mom's C230. do you drive AT? wow acura sure did alot of small little upgrades on the manual for keeping it the same price as the auto.
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Originally Posted by ding069
i ordered mine last week, it should come in on weds/thurs. they want $150 at the dealer to install it, and i think it is something i can do myself. HOWEVER, looking at the instructions it lists a "steering wheel puller" as a "possibly" needed tool and that the toe in/out settings may have to be adjusted after replacing the wheel.
i think i may just have it installed, seeing that $150 may cut alot of aggrivation, as i dont want any toe problems on my new T1R's.
let me know what you all think, and if that is a fair install price.
i think i may just have it installed, seeing that $150 may cut alot of aggrivation, as i dont want any toe problems on my new T1R's.
let me know what you all think, and if that is a fair install price.
The only reason the "Toe-in/out" would have to be adjusted is if the steering wheel wasn't centered. Wouldn't effect your tires at all - just have a slightly turned steering wheel though the car is going straight.
Either way I would let your dealer install it. I for one would pay to have the steering wheel straight and,,, most important, if something goes wrong during or after install - they will take care of it.
I too would haggle on the price. This should be a 45 min job with exception to the possible alignment adjustment. If they do have to put it on the alignment rack then $150 total isn't bad. I would definitely ensure $150 covers it all.
Originally Posted by Fructus
Are you guys driving 5AT or 6MT? Because I think 6MT stock steering wheel is thicker than that of 5AT.
Originally Posted by KJSmitty
The only reason the "Toe-in/out" would have to be adjusted is if the steering wheel wasn't centered. Wouldn't effect your tires at all - just have a slightly turned steering wheel though the car is going straight.
Either way I would let your dealer install it. I for one would pay to have the steering wheel straight and,,, most important, if something goes wrong during or after install - they will take care of it.
I too would haggle on the price. This should be a 45 min job with exception to the possible alignment adjustment. If they do have to put it on the alignment rack then $150 total isn't bad. I would definitely ensure $150 covers it all.
Either way I would let your dealer install it. I for one would pay to have the steering wheel straight and,,, most important, if something goes wrong during or after install - they will take care of it.
I too would haggle on the price. This should be a 45 min job with exception to the possible alignment adjustment. If they do have to put it on the alignment rack then $150 total isn't bad. I would definitely ensure $150 covers it all.
thursday i will have mine, and i can't wait.
Originally Posted by HiTEC
If you want to see something that really makes a difference then get the a-spec suspension
Originally Posted by ding069
i already have all the a-spec components (rims, 235/40 tires, suspension, body kit and spoiler) and this would be the final thing to complete the conversion.
Been there done that...its not too bad to install yourself IF YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL and not pull the cable reel out like I did. Takes forever to figure out how to rewind it...lol. And yep...you gotta YANK it off...doesnt come off real easy. A puller, as mentioned, is recommended. I spend all night rewinding the cable reel assembly...so $107 is worth the hassle. No kidding...I started at about 10p.....ended as the sun came up. I also thought it was worth it...better looking and feeling steering wheel.
Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Been there done that...its not too bad to install yourself IF YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL and not pull the cable reel out like I did. Takes forever to figure out how to rewind it...lol. And yep...you gotta YANK it off...doesnt come off real easy. A puller, as mentioned, is recommended. I spend all night rewinding the cable reel assembly...so $107 is worth the hassle. No kidding...I started at about 10p.....ended as the sun came up. I also thought it was worth it...better looking and feeling steering wheel.
hopefully, between the rear subwoofer replacement and steering wheel, the car will be done in one day.
I've never had a problem replacing a Honda wheel. It usually takes about :30 to do the job. All it takes is a firm yank. No big deal. The service manual is certainly a benefit whenever you're working on the car.
Originally Posted by HiTEC
If you want to see something that really makes a difference then get the a-spec suspension
Originally Posted by Midnight_TL
how much wheel gap is there with the a spec suspension? i'm very very tempted
yea the comptech RSB is installed and doing wonders for me. should i get a spec suspension or teins? i just want a subtle drop with MINIMAL wheel gap. how does the a spec suspension feel in terms of stiffness?
Originally Posted by hondafans
I've never had a problem replacing a Honda wheel. It usually takes about :30 to do the job. All it takes is a firm yank. No big deal. The service manual is certainly a benefit whenever you're working on the car.
As I recall....this is what you have to do....
Unhook the airbag power and one of two other electrical connections under the steering column at an access panel...
Remove airbag and set to side
Unhook top electrical connections under the air bag assembly that work the HFL switches and other steering wheel controls
Unbolt the steering wheel and remove it carefully, making sure to release the tabs from the cable reel from the steering wheel as you remove it (you just make sure they dont hang up on the wheel and come off right)
Take the old steering wheel inside and change over all the switch assemblies (4 sets of them on Navi cars...not sure about non-navi). They are just held in by bolts from the backside of steering wheel...not hard at all.
Rebolt the new steering wheel back up centered with the steering and cable reel tabs.
Reattach electrical connections on the top side
Rebolt in airbag assembly
Rehookup electrical connections to airbag and switches at lower point. Again...cant remember if there is two or three connections here. Main one is the airbag though. You always want to be sure this is diconnected BEFORE you go messing with the airbag as it removes all power from the airbag and lessens deployment risk due to grounding out the power of something.
Also...when you handle the airbag assembly...the recommend you set it to the side gently and the generally keep the backside of it pointed away from you....but honestly...I think accidental deployment once the power is disconntected to the bag is RARE....but a precaution taken nonetheless.
the a-spec rides the same as stock. no decrease in ride quality and should have came on the car from the factroy IMO. the perfromance increase is awesome.
subtle drop with minimal wheel gap contradict each other. the a-spec is very subtle, but i think it should be about 1/4-1/2" lower.
teins are adjustable so you can have whatever style drop you want, just the ride quality is not as good as the a-spec, plus they are not a factory warrantied part.
performance, comfort and subtle looks - a-spec
performance, harder ride and adjustable height from low to high - tein
subtle drop with minimal wheel gap contradict each other. the a-spec is very subtle, but i think it should be about 1/4-1/2" lower.
teins are adjustable so you can have whatever style drop you want, just the ride quality is not as good as the a-spec, plus they are not a factory warrantied part.
performance, comfort and subtle looks - a-spec
performance, harder ride and adjustable height from low to high - tein
Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Again...having done this on this model TL....I can tell you...yank the steering wheel off and the cable reel will nest on you bigger than life about 3/4 of the time. There are tabs on the cable reel cover that extend into the steering wheel itself...so when you yank it...it pulls the top of the reel off about 3/4 of the time resulting in a nested cable reel. Most people have to replace the cable reel at that point too...cause they either damage it or can NEVER figure out how to rewind it (its really tricky because it winds...then back-winds on itself...so figuring out the wind is very hard and NOT in the service manual either). If it hadnt been for that....I would have been done in about 30 minutes...just like you say...the rest of the time was spent figuring out the cable reel and rewinding it over and over and over and over trying to get it back into the reel housing.
As I recall....this is what you have to do....
Unhook the airbag power and one of two other electrical connections under the steering column at an access panel...
Remove airbag and set to side
Unhook top electrical connections under the air bag assembly that work the HFL switches and other steering wheel controls
Unbolt the steering wheel and remove it carefully, making sure to release the tabs from the cable reel from the steering wheel as you remove it (you just make sure they dont hang up on the wheel and come off right)
Take the old steering wheel inside and change over all the switch assemblies (4 sets of them on Navi cars...not sure about non-navi). They are just held in by bolts from the backside of steering wheel...not hard at all.
Rebolt the new steering wheel back up centered with the steering and cable reel tabs.
Reattach electrical connections on the top side
Rebolt in airbag assembly
Rehookup electrical connections to airbag and switches at lower point. Again...cant remember if there is two or three connections here. Main one is the airbag though. You always want to be sure this is diconnected BEFORE you go messing with the airbag as it removes all power from the airbag and lessens deployment risk due to grounding out the power of something.
Also...when you handle the airbag assembly...the recommend you set it to the side gently and the generally keep the backside of it pointed away from you....but honestly...I think accidental deployment once the power is disconntected to the bag is RARE....but a precaution taken nonetheless.
As I recall....this is what you have to do....
Unhook the airbag power and one of two other electrical connections under the steering column at an access panel...
Remove airbag and set to side
Unhook top electrical connections under the air bag assembly that work the HFL switches and other steering wheel controls
Unbolt the steering wheel and remove it carefully, making sure to release the tabs from the cable reel from the steering wheel as you remove it (you just make sure they dont hang up on the wheel and come off right)
Take the old steering wheel inside and change over all the switch assemblies (4 sets of them on Navi cars...not sure about non-navi). They are just held in by bolts from the backside of steering wheel...not hard at all.
Rebolt the new steering wheel back up centered with the steering and cable reel tabs.
Reattach electrical connections on the top side
Rebolt in airbag assembly
Rehookup electrical connections to airbag and switches at lower point. Again...cant remember if there is two or three connections here. Main one is the airbag though. You always want to be sure this is diconnected BEFORE you go messing with the airbag as it removes all power from the airbag and lessens deployment risk due to grounding out the power of something.
Also...when you handle the airbag assembly...the recommend you set it to the side gently and the generally keep the backside of it pointed away from you....but honestly...I think accidental deployment once the power is disconntected to the bag is RARE....but a precaution taken nonetheless.
Originally Posted by ding069
this is a great thread about the a-spec steering wheel. very informative and this should contain all the info any potential buyer would need.
thanks to everyone
thanks to everyone
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124924
https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/i-got-nextel-i-730-x-mas-there-anything-i-should-know-features-tricks-125596/
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...steering+wheel
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...steering+wheel
Just to name a few.....but hey...a new one is good just to kick the dust off of it.
MB and others... Install this yourself. Took me 30 minutes and a beer to get my A-Spec wheel installed
Micheal hit all the key points, but there are 3 key things to do to.
1) Download and read the install directions.
2) Buy a $10 steering wheel puller from your favorite auto-parts store.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...ring_wheel.htm
3) before you remove the wheel, look for the "alignement marks" on the steering shaft and the stock wheel. Ensure these marks are in the same relative location on the new wheel. This wheel ensure the new wheel doesn't end up at 90 degrees when you're driving street (thus requireing and alignment).
The wheel was far easier than any dash dissassembly, nav2go, etc, install. Take your time and it's a piece of cake.
Micheal hit all the key points, but there are 3 key things to do to.
1) Download and read the install directions.
2) Buy a $10 steering wheel puller from your favorite auto-parts store.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...ring_wheel.htm
3) before you remove the wheel, look for the "alignement marks" on the steering shaft and the stock wheel. Ensure these marks are in the same relative location on the new wheel. This wheel ensure the new wheel doesn't end up at 90 degrees when you're driving street (thus requireing and alignment).
The wheel was far easier than any dash dissassembly, nav2go, etc, install. Take your time and it's a piece of cake.
Originally Posted by Kennedy
MB and others... Install this yourself. Took me 30 minutes and a beer to get my A-Spec wheel installed
Micheal hit all the key points, but there are 3 key things to do to.
1) Download and read the install directions.
2) Buy a $10 steering wheel puller from your favorite auto-parts store.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...ring_wheel.htm
3) before you remove the wheel, look for the "alignement marks" on the steering shaft and the stock wheel. Ensure these marks are in the same relative location on the new wheel. This wheel ensure the new wheel doesn't end up at 90 degrees when you're driving street (thus requireing and alignment).
The wheel was far easier than any dash dissassembly, nav2go, etc, install. Take your time and it's a piece of cake.
Micheal hit all the key points, but there are 3 key things to do to.
1) Download and read the install directions.
2) Buy a $10 steering wheel puller from your favorite auto-parts store.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...ring_wheel.htm
3) before you remove the wheel, look for the "alignement marks" on the steering shaft and the stock wheel. Ensure these marks are in the same relative location on the new wheel. This wheel ensure the new wheel doesn't end up at 90 degrees when you're driving street (thus requireing and alignment).
The wheel was far easier than any dash dissassembly, nav2go, etc, install. Take your time and it's a piece of cake.
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