Hey guys I've seen a few threads on here about using(soldering) a .24 ohm resistor in your 2004-2008 TL relay under the dash in the fuse box if your wanting to run LED's for the front and rear turn signals. Is this still working out just fine for anyone? Or should I avoid messing with this all together and just get the 4 separate resistors you connect to each light? It appears that about half the ziners run into issues right from the start and some have no issues at all and the rest it'll work for a little while but start to give em problems. Figured I'd ask the experts. Any updates or advice would be great. Thanks fellas

 

You mean modding your relay? That's the route I would take myself.

 

I just modified my relay last month using a .12 ohm resistor since I only changed my rear signals. Takes less than 3 minutes if you know how to solder. The hardest part was getting the damn relay out...

 

Apparently some have good experience doing this....me, not so much. I attempted this on a previous TL I had and I will never mess that with relay again. I am experienced with soldering and electronics and for whatever reason it was just not working. It caused my interior lights to do really weird things like flicker, go on with lights switch off etc etc. not to mention the relay is extremely hard to get out and when you do the stupid tabs break. I use the VLED V3 Tritons and the units come with built in resistors....easy.

I wouldn't touch the relay, but thats just me.

 

I did the relay for myself and some other AZine members. It worked perfectly with a .12 ohm resistor I ordered from digi-key. I think it's a way better solution than resistors at each bulb. It just seems messy that way. If you'd like, you can send me your relay, and I'll happily mod it for you

 

It worked for me but only temporarily. My switchbacks would strobe after the car warmed up.

The V3 Tritons come with plug n play load resistors. Problem solved.

 

I've had it done since 2011.

Works perfectly, and yes the relay is very difficult to remove. I think I broke a clip on the side, but no matter - it's held in by so much friction.

 

It worked for my friends 1995 honda accord sedan and my 2008 TL.

We both used a 0.24 ohm resistor and both running led front & rear.

 

That would be cool man. Would you happen to have a .24 ohm resistor laying around by any chance?

 

the relay method is the way I recommend. I may have a leftover resistor lying around somewhere. I think it's .24 ohms for front and rear.

 

Actually you're right... I just checked my order and it was indeed .24 ohms

And yes I actually have a couple resistors left!

 

Except for the V3 Triton's, are there any less expensive alternatives which have the resistors "plug and play"?

Thx.

 

Unfortunately there is no alternative.

I have v3 triton switchbacks for the front and some other led turn signals for the back.

Even though the v3 tritons come with the built in resistor you can disable it if you want.

Since I have a 0.24 ohm resistor already soldered into my turn signal relay I disabled the internal v3 triton resistor. Everything works as intended with no hyper flash

 

Are you sure there's no alternative.

A quick search of Ebay brought up these (obviously for the rear turn signals)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381082870516?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I'm tempted to try them...

I still haven't found the 7443 model for the front turn signals

 

Then by all means try them and report back to us that they're as great as a product costing twice as much!

Don't come crying back when you realize "you get what you pay for"

 

I think they would be sufficient. As in "pretty good".
The V3 Triton are pretty much top of the line, and with most things top of the line your ROI is minimal vs the second best offer.

 

Interesting. You might be on to something. Try it out and let us know! It would be nice to know there is a alternative. Up until now I didn't know there was.

 

I managed to get mine out without breaking it, then proceed to break the casing while trying to remove that.

 

It's always great when some child posts a douchebag opinion which was never asked for, nor did it help in any way. Did I ask for something as good as the Tritons? I was just looking for a less expensive alternative. I don't need the top of the line bulbs, nor did I say I wanted something equivalent.

As for the rest,

polobunny, as I'm not trying to get the "MOST" lumens from a turn signal, I completely agree that the ROI for these alternate bulbs may work "good enough".

vietx, I'll def. keep this thread updated. It's always nice to know there's some choice out there.

I've had some issues finding Front turn signals as they're the 7443 style. I've only found the equivalent 7440 style (resistor free) on ebay. I was looking through the TLX forum and found these ( WeissLicht LED Turn Signal Bulbs From bimmian.com )
I'm just trying to fig. out if they'll work dual function (parking lights / turn signal). They also read not requiring resistors.

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

The turn signal bulbs paperboy and I use are very bright, probably closest thing to Tritons.

They're JLC Lightings 40W bulbs.

My 120 SMD ones were pretty bright.
I then tried the "Plasma" ones from Putco because rockstar143 uses them and said they're bright, and ended up returning them because my 120 SMD ones were still brighter.

Then I got the JLC Lighting bulbs, way brighter than my 120 SMD ones.



http://vid136.photobucket.com/albums...ps1ca14ec8.mp4

 

Welcome to the internet buddy, you ask a question you get a multitude of answers, you don't need to respond to those that "don't help in anyway". I've gone through the shitty ebay bulbs before and after 6 months or less, they stop working 100%, or start hyperflashing, or a bunch of other issues may arise from them. Hence why I don't recommend them. At twice the price, if you just buy the Tritons from the get-go, you'll save in the long-run due to the quality and the likelihood of the eBay ones dying at least once.

That's just always been my principle, "douchebag" or not.

 

If you find real CREE LEDs though the quality is top notch. While it doesn't guarantee they are true CREE bulbs, at the price I would be led to believe they are.

CREE has been around for 27 years and has a revenue of over a billion a year. Not your typical eBay bulbs.

 

I bought my front from an ebay member sanlongparts.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Switchback-992-7440-7443-22-LED-Amber-White-High-Power-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb-/121271402430?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3c56bfbe

My buddies bought them after I got them to see the brightness in the day and night. Pretty damn good for its price.

 

Oh I know CREE leds are great, but the diode themselves aren't usually at fault during bulb failures, it's usually poor heatsinks, poor soldering, and overall poor quality of everything else on the bulb. it's the whole "You're only as strong as the weakest link", sure CREE leds will last forever because they're of great quality but how about the PCB board on which the LED is soldered? If that fails, you're SOL.

But to each their own, I'm sure you'll find people that have bought those and have worked fine for a few months or even longer. I'd say go for it!

 

This ^

I've had a CREE 9005 30W bulb fail because the driver came unsoldered.

 

Hey guys I took a chance and bought these...let me know what you think

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251793572787?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I posted a video on YouTube of what they look like and here's that link as well.


I'm using 6ohm 50w resistors for now but might try the .24 resistor method because I want to run LEDs in the front as well.

All opinions are welcome...even if they aren't friendly haha. Thanks acurazine familia

 

Well if these don't hold up then maybe I'll go this route... Idk tho...those Tritons are so expensive. 😳😳😳

 

.

Cool man if you could send me one...that would be great...if you don't mind

 

Did you use a load equalizer \relay to prevent the fast blinking issue?

 

A resistor is what you're looking for to prevent hyperblinking

 

If you guys are looking for an alternative to VLEDs, really would like to see someone try these out.

7443 XB LED CREE XB-D Headlight marker turn signal bulbs blinkers

They have an option for switchback and resistors for extra, that's not mentioning your buying from a forum vendor and get a two year warranty.

I went with some Red's from Ebay, posted a video in this thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...thread-921929/

And to stay on topic, I've done the mod the OP was asking about, I have VLED's out front w/o resistor and the Ebay LED's in the back w/o resistor, no hyper-flashing and everything works nicely.

 

Are you guys removing the front bumper to access the indicators to swap the bulbs?

 

Pull the wheel well liner instead.