acuraddict

Who can I hire in LA to do this? What type of establishment? A stereo installation shop? Where should I go?

neuronbob

THANK YOU, thank you, thank you, need4spd and I-Mod!!!!!!

You are the men!

need4spd

My first try would be with a stereo shop, those guys are used to modifying electrical systems in the car and will have many of the parts in house.

A mechanic would be my second choice, actually my dealer is considering doing this for their customers, but other dealerships would have to be very understanding (regarding the modification of the car thing).

I-MOD

OK, I'll try to get the pictures explained for you.

The first pic shows the part of the fender liner you need to remove. It shows the screws that need to be removed. Also remove any pop fasteners that hold the liner in. When all the screws and pops are removed you have to lift up some on the outer edge of the liner to untuck it from there it meets the fender.

The second shows what the side market looks like once removed from the fender. It's easier to remove it you pull the fender liner first and get to it from the back.

The third shows the connection of the diode to the parking light wire from the car. Make sure you shrink wrap or tape up all connections to keep them dry and free of road grime.

I had some duplicate pics so you can ignore those, i took them to try to get a clear shot.

The 4th pic shows the plug with three wires. If you look at the top of the image you can see where it plugs into the headlight assembly as the parking light and turn signal. Once you remove the liner if you look towards the front of the car you will see this plug. As Need4Spd said you use the center wire on that harness and be sure to diode isolate it.

The 5th picture just shows how I mounted the relays. The black piece in the middle is the part that beeps when you arm your OEM alarm system .

Last shot is the same just further out from the relays.

Let me know if you have questions. I'm doing two of these setups tonight on other TL's so i can take some additional pics if needed at that time

D.

I-MOD

OK...here is the breakdown so you can stop PM'n me

The design's are both good and both work perfectly. One has more fail safe's built in to prevent feedback(Need4spd). And the other (I-mod) is setup to not have a relay on all the time with the parking lights. Both have a diode to prevent feedback but Need4spds loops through the relay as well to double the backup and provide a double safe connection. It really is a matter of preference to you guys with which you use. My design goals were different on my setup. I don't like to have a relay always on with the parking lights on. Mine only activates a relay when the turn signal is on so that the system has less current draw on the factory parking light circuit. There is less chance of a failed relay since it's on only for a short time during turns or when the hazards are on. I use a diode as my fail safe for feedback. Over the years I have never had a problem with any diodes failing but in life anything is possible. Both setups work exactly the same way and yield the same results. You can't go wrong with either. So choose the one that best suits your needs or just flip a coin if you can't decide.

Keep an eye out for future posts from us for lighting upgrades to your TL. We have been discussing some ideas and will add them to the forum as they come together.

need4spd

I agree with I-mod, both work, flip a coin, either is ok.

Both use same exact components, just different wiring and everything else I-mod said!

ajbiggie

On behalf of all of us here, You guys are the GREATEST!!!

rets

You guys make the great tech works. No matter what wiring they are, it will be the good one.

need4spd

rets, not sure what you are saying/asking?

Also, the circuts would work for the rear side marker, for those who would want that to blink also with the turn signals (not me though).

rets

Sorry, mistakes. I couldn't understand what I was typing. It's done when I had the converstion with clietns.

I am in NYC area. Maybe I can get some helps from you if possible. Also, have you done the tint works with your windows?

Just curious. Thanks.

need4spd

I have not had the tint fixed yet.

PM me about your questions.

I-MOD

Got a PM about the rear lights.....to answer the question for everyone:

The rear lights do not require you to setup more relays. Just run a wire from your front setup to the back light on the same side. So you don't have to use any relays or diodes just cut both rear wires and cap off the factory wires. Tap in the wires coming from the rear side marker to the black and red on the setup you did up front and your done. This method will make the rear part of the front circuit and insure no feedback to the cars system as it will be protected be the fail safes in the front circuit. In my opinion after doing it on one last night, it doesn't look that good but that's how he wanted it.

D.

I-MOD

How many of you guys are interested in getting your fog lights to come on with just the parking lights and not the headlights? I did this on my TL a week or so ago and was talking with Need4SPD about posting up a how to. I didn't write down the wire colors etc. when I did it so I'll have to go back and do that but wanted to see what interest was before I pull the car apart again.

zexi

VTech, would love to run the fog separatly , please post when you get a chance.

Formula 350

I think you are asking this on another thread, but yes I would like to get this as an option.

However, I am still waiting for my friggin car.

csrx

need4speed,

I was trying to PM you but your box is full, so I decided to just post it here.

Are you willing to do this mod for people in the NYC area for a fee?

Also wanted to thank you and Imod for your hard work.

need4spd

Maybe, lets talk, my box is empty now, sorry about that.

RichRich

Anyone know what size (part number) the reverse lights are?

Lastdra900n

does anyone know?

I-MOD

Nothing. If you have a problem with the turn signals or parking lights they might not cover that but they can't void anything unless THEY can prove your mod caused the problem

D.

need4spd

Correct, plus I have since purchased the svc manual, and the rear brake lights work in a similar fashion (less the relays, which only improve isolation), so it would be hard for them to prove that it caused a problem.

creamy-nuts

The site is not working for me

tgt

iTrader: (1)

I'm a little late to the game as well. I'd love to see the install diagram and pics!

Thanks!
Travis

Skeedatl

Am I misreading the wiring diagram notes? It says 1N001...you mean 1N4001 don't you?

Skeedatl

Here's a corrected link for the diagram that removes the invite nfo. You still need to register to download it though.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?i...5&code=7453197

or try

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288370995

On both of my workstations I occasionally get "forbidden" messages, but refreshing eg CTRL+F5 in internet explorer (sometimes up to a dozen times) usually will get it to load.

With permission of the two original posters I can host them on a another site so the pics will post here using the IMG linking.

I-MOD

Guees my link is dead, PM me and I'll email it to you

D.

Skeedatl

Need4Spd's schematic (linked cause the JPG is pretty big and blows the thread out)

http://mysite.verizon.net/res0uz5w/n...inkerschem.jpg

I-MOD's schematic (right click to save image)



If you have other images you can email them to cpoliphant@oliphanttool.com and I'll post them. I was going to wait to do my blinkers when I get my wheels which are backordered but if you have pics with descriptions that you can email me I can put all this together in a downloadable .PDF blinker FAQ. Otherwise I'm doing my blinkers within the next 3 weeks or so and will do a step-by-step with my F717 along with a Radioshack.com parts list since I had trouble ordering from the store previously posted (their checkout was broken).

need4spd

yes, the diode should be 1N4001 (or 4002, 4003, etc), the 4 is missing in the schematic.

Skeedatl

Still getting the forbidden error with the imagestation link.

Skeedatl

How much was the service manual? Did you have to get it from the dealer or did you find a 3rd party source?

As for parts...since I had trouble with the original store posted here, I just picked up the diodes from Radio Shack. They sometimes have low stock you may want to order online.

The P/N for the 1N4001 is 276-1101 and come in packs of 2 for $.59 per pack. You need 2 packs (1 pack per blinker).

They also have 12V 30 amp automotive relays there (in their catalog anyway) but they were out of stock in the store so I couldn't tell what brand they are. Online they show them as Radio Shack item number 275-226 for $5.99 each (you need 2 relays per blinker). They should be quite suitable for this application.

tgt

iTrader: (1)

What wheels are you getting? If you don't mind me asking....

Thanks for hosting the images.

-Travis

Skeedatl

See sig 19x8.5 chrome ADR Sterlings with 245/35-19. I had them test fit last month but they didn't have 4 in stock and my order is backordered 'till the middle of this month.


Got my need4spd style wiring harnesses together. Gonna put them in Wed if my project boxes don't show up (more on that later). I went with need4spd only because the soldering was easier and splices easily handled with 3M pigtails. (Pigtailing the diode would have taken a few extra steps). I bought relay sockets since I didn't want to use any crimped spade connectors and soldering directly to the relay can damage it.

The soldering took me about 15 for the pair.

Here's a few pics of what I bought. The parts shown make 1 blinker harness. Note there are 4 relays and sockets so you can see the bottoms (you only need 2 to make each harness).

The images are large (so you can read what's written on everything) so they're linked instead of IMGed. Also you can see in the relay close up that blade 87a is the one that is "normally closed" (shown in the painted diagram on the relay), just like in the Need4Spd schematic.

http://mysite.verizon.net/res0uz5w/BlinkerParts.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0uz5w/RelaysSockets.jpg

Here's what my cheesy harnesses ended up looking like. I'm not really happy with how it looks, so I just ordered plastic and metal project boxes for a cleaner install. After measuring my parts I went with the $2.31 2-11/16 x 1-11/16 x 1-3/16 project boxes from action-electronics.com (pn CES-64-8921) and everything "SHOULD" fit. They were cheap and I have enough relays and sockets for a another 2 pairs so I'll give it a go. If it doesn't fit I still have my original cheese harnesses. If it does work, I'll disassemble these ugly buggers and put them in project boxes too.

Excuse my photography...I suck.



The picture shows the Need4Spd style harness. I went with pigtails for the splices simply because they're easier to deal with. The 3M 3wire pigtail is weatherproof and comes embedded with dilectric grease. I plan on using Molex 192160046 connectors to install the harness as they too are easy to deal with. Everything else is soldered and shrinktubed (no spade connectors except those built into the relay sockets). For the sockets, I just used needlenose to pull the "normally open" metal connector out (show in the linked pictures as the top connector in the socket). I left the pigtails exposed until the circuit is checked in the car. Then I'll remove it and tape/loom the whole thing so it doesn't look so gacked.



These are the project boxes I'm going with. Seeing the pictures of the space it needs to go in, it should fit no problem with some doubleback velcro or something (so it can be removed if needed).

need4spd

Skeedatl,

Thanks for posting, however your links and some photos are not working.

Thanks for your intrest in the project!

How did it work out, does it work for you?

Skeedatl

As the thread was old, I pulled those pics off my webspace to make from for newer ones.

I tested my assy's and they worked fine, however the project boxes were WAY too small so I didn't want to mount them without proper boxes. Since then I've gotton lazy and never bothered getting new project boxes. But the circuits worked and they looked cool.

When the weather improves and I'm finished with home improvement projects I'll get back to the blinker install.

need4spd

Thanks for the update. Good luck with the install.

HuKaShI

need4spd,

Do you do this install for a fee in the new york area?

If so, can you let me know some more info?

Thanks!

madehtsobi

skeedat......are you sure part # 275-226 is the right relay? it only has 4 positions rather than the 5 positions on the drawing that i-mod and need4spd posted?

that relay is missing the center position 87a......

HELP!!!!!!!!!

docfnky

u want a SPDT relay....its the same as the starter kill relay...go to a radio shop or any shop that instal alarms and they'll sell you one.

need4spd

As an update, I found that the drawing that someone made of my circuit had some errors on it, and missing info.

I have re-linked my original drawing for those still considering this modification.

The image is as follows:



Here are two photos of what the relay assembly looks like for one side:





Here is how I installed the blocking diodes into the connectors:



Good luck with your install!

neuronbob

Thanks for reposting the pics! There's been some interest in doing this lately.