Should I try to service the car myself or goto the dealership? First post!!!
#1
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Should I try to service the car myself or goto the dealership? First post!!!
Hi Everyone,
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. I always feel like I'm getting ripped off because I'm a female. I was thinking about trying to do these services myself, including the oil change. Does anyone else pay these ridiculous prices for the service minders or do you guys do them yourself.
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
Thanks!!
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. I always feel like I'm getting ripped off because I'm a female. I was thinking about trying to do these services myself, including the oil change. Does anyone else pay these ridiculous prices for the service minders or do you guys do them yourself.
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
Thanks!!
#2
try learning..you save so much money if you know what you're doing. and as always, if you mess up, you can always come on here and somebody else will let you know how to do something.
#4
I never took my car to a dealer.
Try from something easy like changing an engine oil, change a brake pad, etc. It helps a lot if you find a DYI post and a friend who helps you out.
Try from something easy like changing an engine oil, change a brake pad, etc. It helps a lot if you find a DYI post and a friend who helps you out.
#5
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Hi Everyone,
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. ...
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. ...
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
First, a trustworthy independent mechanic or shop will likely charge less than the dealer for most work-- I use a couple of different shops that charge @ $180-$200 for an oil change, tire rotation and engine air filter + cabin air filter changes (the B12 service- during which they check the brakes, all other fluids, etc.).
Otherwise, a number of items are pretty easy to DIY-- the 3G Garage has a bunch of maintenance and repair links, some including photos and diagrams for things like brake pad replacement, here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
Last edited by Will Y.; 07-27-2009 at 01:26 AM.
#6
very important--
keep receipts for oil changes- trans fluid, brake fluid, or whatever
Make yourself an invoice for parts used-the mileage-date- work performed
There is a place on acura.com to store your records- right with acura~
that the next owner can access later when the account transfers too
If there is ever a warranty issue and a fluid was supposed to have been changed,,you are covered no question
Dealer is for certain jobs that they have special tools or training, and diagnosing something azine members cant help you figure out
Example- the clutch on gen3 6 speed requires both special tool and training- its not a normal car
I do suggest meeting the service writers and service manager so they know you before you need a warranty fix or one just after warranty limits,
A good way to make friends is a box of popsicles or ice cream bars `for the shop`
5 dollar investment in Goodwill will pay you back many times over
keep receipts for oil changes- trans fluid, brake fluid, or whatever
Make yourself an invoice for parts used-the mileage-date- work performed
There is a place on acura.com to store your records- right with acura~
that the next owner can access later when the account transfers too
If there is ever a warranty issue and a fluid was supposed to have been changed,,you are covered no question
Dealer is for certain jobs that they have special tools or training, and diagnosing something azine members cant help you figure out
Example- the clutch on gen3 6 speed requires both special tool and training- its not a normal car
I do suggest meeting the service writers and service manager so they know you before you need a warranty fix or one just after warranty limits,
A good way to make friends is a box of popsicles or ice cream bars `for the shop`
5 dollar investment in Goodwill will pay you back many times over
#7
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you have the ability and desire to do the service yourself, that's a step in the right direction, but you'll also need tools and equipment, e.g. socket set, wrenches, ramps, jack, jack stands and a space to do the work.
You can certainly save some money as the dealer prices and service schedules are rediculous, but with the deals that you can find for an oil change, maybe not worth the trouble and aggravation.
My daughter has her oil/filter changed by the Nissan dealer, it's reasonable and she receives a free car wash along with an inspection. In the last 6 months the Maxima has needed an IACV and CV boots replaced. The dealer price was $1600 for both and I did the job for $143.
I've always enjoyed doing the work and saving the money, but others just don't want to be bothered and would rather pay to get the job done. Just depends on what you want.
You can certainly save some money as the dealer prices and service schedules are rediculous, but with the deals that you can find for an oil change, maybe not worth the trouble and aggravation.
My daughter has her oil/filter changed by the Nissan dealer, it's reasonable and she receives a free car wash along with an inspection. In the last 6 months the Maxima has needed an IACV and CV boots replaced. The dealer price was $1600 for both and I did the job for $143.
I've always enjoyed doing the work and saving the money, but others just don't want to be bothered and would rather pay to get the job done. Just depends on what you want.
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#8
Burning Brakes
If you have the ability and desire to do the service yourself, that's a step in the right direction, but you'll also need tools and equipment, e.g. socket set, wrenches, ramps, jack, jack stands and a space to do the work.
You can certainly save some money as the dealer prices and service schedules are rediculous, but with the deals that you can find for an oil change, maybe not worth the trouble and aggravation.
You can certainly save some money as the dealer prices and service schedules are rediculous, but with the deals that you can find for an oil change, maybe not worth the trouble and aggravation.
Some tools are tricky, i.e Oil Filter Wrench
Of the many oil filter wrenches available on the market, only a few let people do the job easily. I personally like this one (own it too )
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Ca...697322&sr=1-13
Get yourself a good, reliable socket set. The cheap stuff (ive owned many cheapo crap) usually fails to do the job correctly, where the socket fails to grip the bolt properly, leading to more headaches. Sears always has deals on mechanics tool sets that run anywhere from 60 to 200 dollars for starters, that will include most of the sockets, combination wrenches etc you will need for common automotive tasks. For an oil change, you will need a 17mm socket wrench.
Jack and jack stands are good to have. Make sure you get one that clears the front end, and has enough lift height to get the rear end up. The 3-ton NON-low profile Craftsman fails at both of these tasks. You have to drive the car up on boards to get the jack under the car in the front, and the rear, it barely gets the wheels up 1" from the ground.
Personally, for oil changes, i drive the car up on some 1.5" x 12" x 18" boards (ghetto..i know...lol)
Best of luck to ya. Hope you give it a shot yourself. Most of this stuff is easy!
#10
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Our Acura dealer is excellent, but I don't like shelling out hundreds of dollars for non-required service procedures.
We have a 2008 Optima knock around vehicle and the 30,000 mile service at the dealer is $495. Only items required, cabin filter, air filter, oil and filter, and fuel air filter. My cost was $58. Rather keep the money in my pocket, but once again, if you're not mechanically inclined or the cost is not a problem, have the dealer do all the work.
We have a 2008 Optima knock around vehicle and the 30,000 mile service at the dealer is $495. Only items required, cabin filter, air filter, oil and filter, and fuel air filter. My cost was $58. Rather keep the money in my pocket, but once again, if you're not mechanically inclined or the cost is not a problem, have the dealer do all the work.
#11
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Hi Everyone,
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. I always feel like I'm getting ripped off because I'm a female. I was thinking about trying to do these services myself, including the oil change. Does anyone else pay these ridiculous prices for the service minders or do you guys do them yourself.
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
Thanks!!
First post here. I drive a 2007 acura TL and just had the A12 service done for 290 bucks (w/out tax). I was just wondering, should I get these services done at the dealership or should I just do them myself. I always feel like I'm getting ripped off because I'm a female. I was thinking about trying to do these services myself, including the oil change. Does anyone else pay these ridiculous prices for the service minders or do you guys do them yourself.
BTW. I don't know much about cars, but am thinking about learning.
Thanks!!
Of course that's assuming you have the right tools and 2 hrs of your time is free. If you want to perform the routine maintenance you basically need a ratchet set and have atleast 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 24mm.. get a set of flat heads & a phillips head screwdrivers, 2 car stands and a hydraulic jack + a 2x4 block.
There's a lot of room on the oil filter so if you need a oil filter wrench just get the cheapest most appropriate, but they shouldn't be torqued on very tight, usually you can just twist them off by hand. The oil & filter you can usually drop off at the place you bought your oil. Advance and PepBoys take them.. I know AutoZone takes the oil.. not sure about the filter.
If you're serious.. you should also probably get the service manual for the TL (~$60 on ebay) as well and search for DIY threads in the 3G Garage. Trust me.. when you do your own work on the car there is a real peace of mind. I can't tell you the number of cars I've owned where the drain bolts or wheel lugs have been over torqued / stripped. When you do your own work, you are a bit more patient and careful.. plus it is financially and personally rewarding.
If you feel that it is not worth the money & time.. I suggest to at least talk to the guys working on your car and inspect the work that was performed.
#12
FYI: If you go to a place like Discount Tire, you may be able to get a tire rotation for free. Some of them do this cause they know you'll be going back to them for tires when the time comes if you receive quality service. It really depends on the specific shop, but it's definitely worth a try...
As for oil changes and things, this car is is a good DIY for that. The remote mounted oil-filter makes oil changes much easier and cleaner than most Hondas. Get yourself a cheap clear plastic shower liner to place under the area your working and you won't have to worry about spilling and oil stains. Also get yourself a bag of oil pan drain-plug washers from the dealership as a new one should be installed every time you change the oil.
I use an empty 3-gal detergent bucket and a funnel to catch the used oil as it drains from the car. Simply place the funnel into the opening of the jug and position it below the drain plug to catch oil once you open it. Be sure to remove both caps on the container otherwise the oil won't go down the funnel smoothly, and the funnel will fill up & overflow. After an oil change, you can then easily transport the used oil to Autozone for proper recycling (and that's free).
Also do yourself a favor and get a funnel that has a small screen inside the neck. Otherwise the funnel will quickly fill to the top if you accidentally drop the drain plug in.
Filter removal can be a pain so get yourself the proper sized wrench. It will attach to your ratchet and make life very easy. Use it for removal only. Be aware more oil will start to run out as you remove the filter. When installing the new filter, only make it as tight as you can turn it with your bare hands. Be sure to wet the gasket of the new filter with a little fresh oil before you install.
Oil is pretty cheap at Walmart. Most full sythetics are about $18-$23 for a 5-quart jug. It doesn't really matter what brand as long as it's 5w-20. I replace oil as soon as the dashboard starts giving me that anoying reminder every time I start the car (around 7k miles)...
For the filter I use mobil-1. Walmart used to carry them for $10, but not anymore. There are a lot of options in filters though and many are much cheaper. I doubt it really matters in the end if you change oil regularly. Just avoid the FRAM and Honda filters. They are made of cardboard inside.
RECOMMENDED ITEMS:
- Jack
- Jack stands (always support car with these)
- Empty laundry deterget container
- Wide Funnel w/ screen in bottom
- Old shower curtin liner (clear plastic)
- 5 quarts synthetic oil
- Oil filter (not FRAM or Honda)
- Oil filter wrench (to remove filter)
- 17mm socket and ratchet (to remove drain plug)
- Drain Plug washers
- Roll of paper towels
- Orange Clean (for scrubbing your hands when done)
Always recycle your old oil...
As for oil changes and things, this car is is a good DIY for that. The remote mounted oil-filter makes oil changes much easier and cleaner than most Hondas. Get yourself a cheap clear plastic shower liner to place under the area your working and you won't have to worry about spilling and oil stains. Also get yourself a bag of oil pan drain-plug washers from the dealership as a new one should be installed every time you change the oil.
I use an empty 3-gal detergent bucket and a funnel to catch the used oil as it drains from the car. Simply place the funnel into the opening of the jug and position it below the drain plug to catch oil once you open it. Be sure to remove both caps on the container otherwise the oil won't go down the funnel smoothly, and the funnel will fill up & overflow. After an oil change, you can then easily transport the used oil to Autozone for proper recycling (and that's free).
Also do yourself a favor and get a funnel that has a small screen inside the neck. Otherwise the funnel will quickly fill to the top if you accidentally drop the drain plug in.
Filter removal can be a pain so get yourself the proper sized wrench. It will attach to your ratchet and make life very easy. Use it for removal only. Be aware more oil will start to run out as you remove the filter. When installing the new filter, only make it as tight as you can turn it with your bare hands. Be sure to wet the gasket of the new filter with a little fresh oil before you install.
Oil is pretty cheap at Walmart. Most full sythetics are about $18-$23 for a 5-quart jug. It doesn't really matter what brand as long as it's 5w-20. I replace oil as soon as the dashboard starts giving me that anoying reminder every time I start the car (around 7k miles)...
For the filter I use mobil-1. Walmart used to carry them for $10, but not anymore. There are a lot of options in filters though and many are much cheaper. I doubt it really matters in the end if you change oil regularly. Just avoid the FRAM and Honda filters. They are made of cardboard inside.
RECOMMENDED ITEMS:
- Jack
- Jack stands (always support car with these)
- Empty laundry deterget container
- Wide Funnel w/ screen in bottom
- Old shower curtin liner (clear plastic)
- 5 quarts synthetic oil
- Oil filter (not FRAM or Honda)
- Oil filter wrench (to remove filter)
- 17mm socket and ratchet (to remove drain plug)
- Drain Plug washers
- Roll of paper towels
- Orange Clean (for scrubbing your hands when done)
Always recycle your old oil...
Last edited by 94eg!; 07-27-2009 at 11:21 AM.
#13
KICKED IN THE BALLS
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Tryingdiy-dealerships are always the most exspensive place to go to do any kind of maintainence. You can try finding a local mechanic or the 3g garage is a big help. You can also ask people in acurazine that lives close to you to give a helping hand. I help out a lot of the guys here in SD and they help me out as well too.
#14
Senior Moderator
Everyone has some great ideas. Tools are a bit expensive, but a great inverstment that will last you for years. So, don't skimp on those. Tools can also be used on my other around the house projects as well. If your the type of girl that doesn't mind breaking a nail now and then, then do the DIY easy maintenance items and save yourself a bundle. (Your savings can be used to repair the broken nail) Welcome to AZ
#15
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
Welcome to AZ!
Find a good DIY in the 3G Garage and give it a try. Once you do one, you will gain more confidence and do another---its a nice cycle. As others have said, there is no piece of mind better than a job done yourself.
Good luck!
Find a good DIY in the 3G Garage and give it a try. Once you do one, you will gain more confidence and do another---its a nice cycle. As others have said, there is no piece of mind better than a job done yourself.
Good luck!
#16
it's a car-drive it
[QUOTE=Turbonut;11146676]Our Acura dealer is excellent, but I don't like shelling out hundreds of dollars for non-required service procedures.
We have a 2008 Optima knock around vehicle and the 30,000 mile service at the dealer is $495. Only items required, cabin filter, air filter, oil and filter, and fuel air filter. My cost was $58. Rather keep the money in my pocket, but once again, if you're not mechanically inclined or the cost is not a problem, have the dealer do all the work.[/QUOTE
I recently had the B12 service done on my 06 tsx- It costs $180.00. I am not mechanically inclined nor do I have any desire to learn. I am not rich either but I want to keep my car running for along time. I am also saving for the TL I plan to buy when the 6MT gets here. My tsx has 88,000+miles. My good friend is the acura service manager so I get good deals on service.
We have a 2008 Optima knock around vehicle and the 30,000 mile service at the dealer is $495. Only items required, cabin filter, air filter, oil and filter, and fuel air filter. My cost was $58. Rather keep the money in my pocket, but once again, if you're not mechanically inclined or the cost is not a problem, have the dealer do all the work.[/QUOTE
I recently had the B12 service done on my 06 tsx- It costs $180.00. I am not mechanically inclined nor do I have any desire to learn. I am not rich either but I want to keep my car running for along time. I am also saving for the TL I plan to buy when the 6MT gets here. My tsx has 88,000+miles. My good friend is the acura service manager so I get good deals on service.
#20
AZ Community Team
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DIY Basic Service. NO DOUBT.
Trust me. Until 2 years ago, I had never changed the oil on a car. The DIY's here and the help from the members make it easy.
You'll need some basic tools if you don't have them. There are already a couple of good lists in the responses above to start.
Trust me. Until 2 years ago, I had never changed the oil on a car. The DIY's here and the help from the members make it easy.
You'll need some basic tools if you don't have them. There are already a couple of good lists in the responses above to start.
#21
2nd Gear
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Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
#22
I only take the car to the dealer for warranty work, rest I do myself.
For oil changes, you don't even need a jack and jackstands. You can get a set of Rhino Ramps for $30, and they work just fine. Filters are easy to replace, no big deal there. Tire rotations can be a pain in the ass to do yourself, you can take it to most shops and they will rotate the tires for $20 or less.
For oil changes, you don't even need a jack and jackstands. You can get a set of Rhino Ramps for $30, and they work just fine. Filters are easy to replace, no big deal there. Tire rotations can be a pain in the ass to do yourself, you can take it to most shops and they will rotate the tires for $20 or less.
#23
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thanks! I feel so much better now lol. Yeah I know I got ripped off, but oh well at this point. Good idea on that acura service manual. I'm going to definitely try to DIY some of this stuff. Yay to trying to save money!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
#24
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
Thanks! I feel so much better now lol. Yeah I know I got ripped off, but oh well at this point. Good idea on that acura service manual. I'm going to definitely try to DIY some of this stuff. Yay to trying to save money!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
Also, I was able to find a service manual online in PDF format. It helps to have the laptop in the garage!
#25
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
Thanks! I feel so much better now lol. Yeah I know I got ripped off, but oh well at this point. Good idea on that acura service manual. I'm going to definitely try to DIY some of this stuff. Yay to trying to save money!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
Thanks to everyone that responded! I feel so at home already!
Changing the oil is very easy, let the car cool down for 1hr, 17mm wrench for the drain bolt,1 jack stand and a jack. The only pain is getting rid of the old oil. No filter wrench is needed, the fliter is very easy to get to and if correctly done is only tightened 1/4 turn past 1st resistance.
My problem with dealerships is the way they treat your car. Scraches. joy ridding, and other abuse are part of the service. Test drives are done by 18 yr old car washers who thrash your car. Even warranty work should be done by a local shop.
#26
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (18)
thats how dealers make their money, thru check ups and such they give you a good deal on the car and make a little but then bank on you comming back and them ripping you off(and used cars, they make the most on them). I change my own oil and filter for about 30 bucks, got a brand new cabin filter for 15 bucks(simple to install) and k&n air filter cleaner for 15 bucks that made my intake brand new and still have used out of it...so for 60 bucks all that is done. the cabin filter should be about 10-15k depending where u drive and such and engine filter same..
#27
Team Owner
I have to say that the TL is a good car to learn on. Oil changes are very easy. Plug changes are very easy. So is coolant and transmission fluid.
Pay attention and follow the manual and you'll have no problems. Smear oil on the filter O-ring and hand tighten and you'll never have to worry about using a wrench to take it off again. The only thing you have to worry about is overtightening the drain plug. Other than that, you really can't mess up.
Pay attention and follow the manual and you'll have no problems. Smear oil on the filter O-ring and hand tighten and you'll never have to worry about using a wrench to take it off again. The only thing you have to worry about is overtightening the drain plug. Other than that, you really can't mess up.
#28
Most people working an oil change on ramps are hard pressed to get the oil drain plug TIGHT enough!- use a torque wrench- 29 ft lbs is more than you think
The problem of overtightening is with car on the lift on over a pit, the tech uses a long wrench and pulls hard on it- generating 50-60 ft lbs torque
The aluminum threads of the oil pan dont like that and are easily damaged- meaning threads ripped right out of the pan on next removal
The bolt threads also get stretched and weakened
The problem of overtightening is with car on the lift on over a pit, the tech uses a long wrench and pulls hard on it- generating 50-60 ft lbs torque
The aluminum threads of the oil pan dont like that and are easily damaged- meaning threads ripped right out of the pan on next removal
The bolt threads also get stretched and weakened
#29
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I have to say that the TL is a good car to learn on. Oil changes are very easy. Plug changes are very easy. So is coolant and transmission fluid.
Pay attention and follow the manual and you'll have no problems. Smear oil on the filter O-ring and hand tighten and you'll never have to worry about using a wrench to take it off again. The only thing you have to worry about is overtightening the drain plug. Other than that, you really can't mess up.
Pay attention and follow the manual and you'll have no problems. Smear oil on the filter O-ring and hand tighten and you'll never have to worry about using a wrench to take it off again. The only thing you have to worry about is overtightening the drain plug. Other than that, you really can't mess up.
Most people working an oil change on ramps are hard pressed to get the oil drain plug TIGHT enough!- use a torque wrench- 29 ft lbs is more than you think
The problem of overtightening is with car on the lift on over a pit, the tech uses a long wrench and pulls hard on it- generating 50-60 ft lbs torque
The aluminum threads of the oil pan dont like that and are easily damaged- meaning threads ripped right out of the pan on next removal
The bolt threads also get stretched and weakened
The problem of overtightening is with car on the lift on over a pit, the tech uses a long wrench and pulls hard on it- generating 50-60 ft lbs torque
The aluminum threads of the oil pan dont like that and are easily damaged- meaning threads ripped right out of the pan on next removal
The bolt threads also get stretched and weakened
So as mentioned before.. definite peace of mind to DIY routine maintenance. Otherwise a overzealous grease monkey could cause major damage on a $27.99 oil job.
#30
Burning Brakes
Yea..We did this on a sunday. No dealer open. So i just cleaned off the bolt and put it back for now. No leaks, but next time, its a new drain bolt with crush washer in that sucker.
#31
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ jeez.. and that's from the dealer..
#32
Burning Brakes
Well, were not entirely sure where the previous owner had his/her oil changes done, but he did have two done at the dealer. Once upon purchase, and once more after that. It could be from the dealer? or maybe even prior damage from some other location and the dealer just said "ehhhhhh screw it." to a damaged drain bolt.
#33
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Well, were not entirely sure where the previous owner had his/her oil changes done, but he did have two done at the dealer. Once upon purchase, and once more after that. It could be from the dealer? or maybe even prior damage from some other location and the dealer just said "ehhhhhh screw it." to a damaged drain bolt.
#35
Go to an Authorize Repair/Mechanic Shop, bring all our oil filter, oil, air filter, cabin filter, and the repair shop would probably do it like 150...
Unless Dealership is doing tire rotation, then it's a good deal though
Unless Dealership is doing tire rotation, then it's a good deal though
#37
Instructor
Don't forget that taking the car to the Dealer may INCREASE the resale value (versus the 'do-it-yourself' maintenance).
Now, before the flaming starts, let me say that I've worked on my own cars for years and would not hesitate to change my own oil, brakes, etc. on my TL; however, for the minor extra cost to take it to the Dealer I figure when it somes time to sell the car it will not only bea easier to show the buyer all the Dealer maintenance receipts but also fetch a higher price.
Now, before the flaming starts, let me say that I've worked on my own cars for years and would not hesitate to change my own oil, brakes, etc. on my TL; however, for the minor extra cost to take it to the Dealer I figure when it somes time to sell the car it will not only bea easier to show the buyer all the Dealer maintenance receipts but also fetch a higher price.
#38
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Don't forget that taking the car to the Dealer may INCREASE the resale value (versus the 'do-it-yourself' maintenance).
Now, before the flaming starts, let me say that I've worked on my own cars for years and would not hesitate to change my own oil, brakes, etc. on my TL; however, for the minor extra cost to take it to the Dealer I figure when it somes time to sell the car it will not only bea easier to show the buyer all the Dealer maintenance receipts but also fetch a higher price.
Now, before the flaming starts, let me say that I've worked on my own cars for years and would not hesitate to change my own oil, brakes, etc. on my TL; however, for the minor extra cost to take it to the Dealer I figure when it somes time to sell the car it will not only bea easier to show the buyer all the Dealer maintenance receipts but also fetch a higher price.
I'd rather buy a car owned & cared for by someone who kept receipts of all the maintenance because I know they took care of their car.
#39
Three Wheelin'
this is a great thread- my B1 service light just came on..., i am at 23, 500 how many have/recommend performing the B1 a DIY? and how much does dealer charge, any responses greatly appreciated. Need to make a move this week. thanks to all
J.O.
J.O.
#40
AZ Community Team
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J, B1 should not cost more that $50 - $60 at the dealer; 1/2 for the oil and filter change and 1/2 for the tire rotation. Inspections should be included NOT extra.
The hassle with B1 is the tire rotation since most "shade tree" mechanics don't have a lift.
The hassle with B1 is the tire rotation since most "shade tree" mechanics don't have a lift.