Is the Seafoam DIY for 2nd Gen TLs exactly the same as what to do for 3rd gen TLs?
#1
Is the Seafoam DIY for 2nd Gen TLs exactly the same as what to do for 3rd gen TLs?
Hi I was reading about Seafoam because my car has like 51,500 miles on it (I bought it used w/ 49,500) and I don't think Seafoam has ever been used on it. I get about 16 mpg so I'm looking to improve that. Anyway I did a search but it seems everything directed me to the post here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=4&pp=40
This is for 2nd gen TL's though so I'm wondering are the pictures in post #147 accurate for a 3rd gen TL also? Like will the engine look exactly the same? I don't have my TL with me currently but I really know nothing about engines and all the terms to go with it.
Also, I couldn't find verification of this anywhere but the poster said "Note: You MUST use a seperate piece of vac tubing- not anything on the car- to get the seafoam in- see the pics." - Does this mean I have to buy a piece of vac tubing and attach that to the hole in the engine, or can I use something that's in the car? If I do have to buy something can anyone tell me what size it should be?
The poster also said:
"The nipple is the direct manifold VAC port- not the hose attached to it"
I have no idea what these terms mean, does that change anything other than just attaching a hose to the hole/intake in the engine and putting the other end in the Seafoam and letting it suck it into the engine? Sorry if these questions have been answered already but I spent a lot of time searching and couldn't find distinct answers to these questions.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=4&pp=40
This is for 2nd gen TL's though so I'm wondering are the pictures in post #147 accurate for a 3rd gen TL also? Like will the engine look exactly the same? I don't have my TL with me currently but I really know nothing about engines and all the terms to go with it.
Also, I couldn't find verification of this anywhere but the poster said "Note: You MUST use a seperate piece of vac tubing- not anything on the car- to get the seafoam in- see the pics." - Does this mean I have to buy a piece of vac tubing and attach that to the hole in the engine, or can I use something that's in the car? If I do have to buy something can anyone tell me what size it should be?
The poster also said:
"The nipple is the direct manifold VAC port- not the hose attached to it"
I have no idea what these terms mean, does that change anything other than just attaching a hose to the hole/intake in the engine and putting the other end in the Seafoam and letting it suck it into the engine? Sorry if these questions have been answered already but I spent a lot of time searching and couldn't find distinct answers to these questions.
#2
The post #147 pictures are not representative of our engines. The 3G throttle body does not have that Vac line described. I have yet to complete this procedure on mine yet so I can't really direct you any further.
#3
Ah ok I think I actually found an appropriate picture here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=7&pp=40
in post# 246.
But apparently you need someone else to press the gas pedal so the engine doesn't stall or die or something while you're holding the can of Seafoam. "Seems like you need a friend on the gas pedal to keep it running- not revved just running" But I'm wondering does anyone know what exactly the other person should be doing? Do they just very lightly press the accelerator but not rev the engine high at all? Also should the car be in Park or Neutral? Anyone?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=7&pp=40
in post# 246.
But apparently you need someone else to press the gas pedal so the engine doesn't stall or die or something while you're holding the can of Seafoam. "Seems like you need a friend on the gas pedal to keep it running- not revved just running" But I'm wondering does anyone know what exactly the other person should be doing? Do they just very lightly press the accelerator but not rev the engine high at all? Also should the car be in Park or Neutral? Anyone?
#4
Seafoam is great, but should not be done to your TL until after you've driven at least 50K. This is because it is recommended that the spark plugs are replaced after seafoam treatment.
However, for down the line purposes, I'm interested in this as well.
However, for down the line purposes, I'm interested in this as well.
#5
ok guys here is the real deal- I looked at a gen3 yesterday at our azine meet and we all gathered around to confirm.
For gen3- remove the plastic engine cover- its 1/4 turn left to open the plastic screws, and there is a catch in the back - you will feel it and find no prob, cover not required if you like the open look!
On gen3 you need a helper to keep the engine running by pressing lightly on the gas pedal to maintain about 1000---1200 rpm- so when you add little sips of seafoam the engine does stall. If it does just restart~
On geb3 the vac port is located in the same general area- but you look right ON the beginning metal snout of the intake manifold and see a rubber hose WITH a clamp on it (thats the easy way to verify)- remove clamp and pull that hose loose.
Attach a new spare piece of tubing- I didnt get the size but if you drive to the parts store to buy seafoam- ask them to come out and look at tell you what size-
get 1 foot and that will allow room to put the can towards the rear of the engine area -there is a place it will slip down into while you hold it-
then put hose on and into can- you will be raising and lowering the can a fraction of an inch to suck little sips sips of seafoam - then wait till engine stabilzes- sip sip sip- stabilize- repeat till can empty- as slow as possible- taking minutes not seconds is most effective!
Smoke will come out the exhaust- dont worry- its cleaning oils reacting to heat
Then shut off engine- put hose and its clamp back on- wait 10 munutes and start engine.
Wait till it stabilizes itself- will sound like death for a minute and smoke comes out exhaust, do NOT rev yet!!!!!!
once stable, drive slowly down the street- as soon it runs like normal in a few blocks-
hit the open road at 4000 rpm 3rd gear (automatics)- you want heat in the engine and exhaust
Several runs from 10 mph to 50 mph so you get 5500 rpm - well into vtec,
and that will pump gas thru the injectors and really get stuff clean
drive around 15 mintes or so and your good to go.
The next few days will get better and smoother as it cleans out.
Repeat the gas tank and manifold method in 2000 miles for 1st timers, that gets it all sparkling, then do it once a year, and before mountain fun or trips- track days- never a bad idea-- IMO
On the gas tank- add 8oz/1 can of seafoam to 1/4 tank, about 4 gallons of fuel in tank- thats cleaning strength at 20z foam to 1 gal gas- run it down a few gallons- add a few gallons of gas- when thats down again rerfill and drive normally
Add the seafoam to tank before the manifold- so its in the gas when you are out using the throttle hard-
No we were not smart enough to take any pics- sorry, next meet!
You can start doing foam at 15k miles- it does NOT hurt spark plugs that are in good condition AND you do the hotfoot drive after foamin..that burns the crud off them- and off the O2 sensor, so all is well.
IF you have 100k and are going to change the plugs- do foam first
Dont sweat a CEL, just crud on the O2, needed more hotfoot drive- drive a day or 2, if doesnt self clear- you can reset it at home easy
Is that clear enough?
For gen3- remove the plastic engine cover- its 1/4 turn left to open the plastic screws, and there is a catch in the back - you will feel it and find no prob, cover not required if you like the open look!
On gen3 you need a helper to keep the engine running by pressing lightly on the gas pedal to maintain about 1000---1200 rpm- so when you add little sips of seafoam the engine does stall. If it does just restart~
On geb3 the vac port is located in the same general area- but you look right ON the beginning metal snout of the intake manifold and see a rubber hose WITH a clamp on it (thats the easy way to verify)- remove clamp and pull that hose loose.
Attach a new spare piece of tubing- I didnt get the size but if you drive to the parts store to buy seafoam- ask them to come out and look at tell you what size-
get 1 foot and that will allow room to put the can towards the rear of the engine area -there is a place it will slip down into while you hold it-
then put hose on and into can- you will be raising and lowering the can a fraction of an inch to suck little sips sips of seafoam - then wait till engine stabilzes- sip sip sip- stabilize- repeat till can empty- as slow as possible- taking minutes not seconds is most effective!
Smoke will come out the exhaust- dont worry- its cleaning oils reacting to heat
Then shut off engine- put hose and its clamp back on- wait 10 munutes and start engine.
Wait till it stabilizes itself- will sound like death for a minute and smoke comes out exhaust, do NOT rev yet!!!!!!
once stable, drive slowly down the street- as soon it runs like normal in a few blocks-
hit the open road at 4000 rpm 3rd gear (automatics)- you want heat in the engine and exhaust
Several runs from 10 mph to 50 mph so you get 5500 rpm - well into vtec,
and that will pump gas thru the injectors and really get stuff clean
drive around 15 mintes or so and your good to go.
The next few days will get better and smoother as it cleans out.
Repeat the gas tank and manifold method in 2000 miles for 1st timers, that gets it all sparkling, then do it once a year, and before mountain fun or trips- track days- never a bad idea-- IMO
On the gas tank- add 8oz/1 can of seafoam to 1/4 tank, about 4 gallons of fuel in tank- thats cleaning strength at 20z foam to 1 gal gas- run it down a few gallons- add a few gallons of gas- when thats down again rerfill and drive normally
Add the seafoam to tank before the manifold- so its in the gas when you are out using the throttle hard-
No we were not smart enough to take any pics- sorry, next meet!
You can start doing foam at 15k miles- it does NOT hurt spark plugs that are in good condition AND you do the hotfoot drive after foamin..that burns the crud off them- and off the O2 sensor, so all is well.
IF you have 100k and are going to change the plugs- do foam first
Dont sweat a CEL, just crud on the O2, needed more hotfoot drive- drive a day or 2, if doesnt self clear- you can reset it at home easy
Is that clear enough?
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#8
excellent pic dougler-
so you can see how the nipple comes out and a small piece of hose will slip on so you are pulling seafoam into the engine directly-
the can goes there- your hand here and ready to go
First person with a camera and a can wins a prize (prize offer not valid)
Enjoy everyone!
so you can see how the nipple comes out and a small piece of hose will slip on so you are pulling seafoam into the engine directly-
the can goes there- your hand here and ready to go
First person with a camera and a can wins a prize (prize offer not valid)
Enjoy everyone!
#9
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
excellent pic dougler-
so you can see how the nipple comes out and a small piece of hose will slip on so you are pulling seafoam into the engine directly-
the can goes there- your hand here and ready to go
First person with a camera and a can wins a prize (prize offer not valid)
Enjoy everyone!
so you can see how the nipple comes out and a small piece of hose will slip on so you are pulling seafoam into the engine directly-
the can goes there- your hand here and ready to go
First person with a camera and a can wins a prize (prize offer not valid)
Enjoy everyone!
#12
go ahead and give the seafoam a try. i took those pics with my phone but i think they came out clear enough. i made the mistake of pulling the whole can right into the manifold in one shot but then later that night i repeated the process by slowly sipping the seafoam up the hose. the car only stalled once and i didnt have anyone revving the car. it took about 7-10minutes to suck the whole can up this time.
#13
oh wow i didnt get it until the last post...so basically lean the can somewhere secure and use the accelerator to cause suction to "SIP SIP" ( I GET IT NOW!!) the seafoam out of the can!!
lol i believe i will be trying this some time soon
lol i believe i will be trying this some time soon
#14
I would recommend getting like a 20oz and cut the top portion off, so that you have like a cup. Then pour about 2/3 of a can in there, and the sip sip sip action is done by raising and lowering the tube that goes into the car. use the accelerator when you notice the car beginning to stall out.
Did it on my 99 camry this weekend, unfortunately the same time I restarted a cop was driving by the house. Not a pretty sight, he made a quick U-turn to check the inspection tags. haha
Did it on my 99 camry this weekend, unfortunately the same time I restarted a cop was driving by the house. Not a pretty sight, he made a quick U-turn to check the inspection tags. haha
#15
I've been reading the seafoam threads for a little, and I am considering doing this.
16,000 miles on my TL, but it does feel a little laggy when I hit the gas, also idle isn't very good. Start-up sucks balls, nothing like the 07 Type-S. I have to hold it 2-3 seconds before it starts.
Just to be sure...
materials: 3 cans of Seafoam, a hose to connect to the intake, and my girlfriend to step on the gas.
1)drive til engine is fully warm
2)Remove Vac line
3)Insert new line
4)Start engine
5)sip,sip,sip
6)turn off engine
7)sit for 15 minutes
8)turn on car, and idle for 1 minute
9)rev the engine for a little bit, and then take off hitting the vtec.
10)add a few gallons(I will be doing the gas tank and the vac. just changed my oil 2 weeks ago)
11)drive til close to empty and refill.....enjoy better performance, gas milage, and smooth idle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks.
16,000 miles on my TL, but it does feel a little laggy when I hit the gas, also idle isn't very good. Start-up sucks balls, nothing like the 07 Type-S. I have to hold it 2-3 seconds before it starts.
Just to be sure...
materials: 3 cans of Seafoam, a hose to connect to the intake, and my girlfriend to step on the gas.
1)drive til engine is fully warm
2)Remove Vac line
3)Insert new line
4)Start engine
5)sip,sip,sip
6)turn off engine
7)sit for 15 minutes
8)turn on car, and idle for 1 minute
9)rev the engine for a little bit, and then take off hitting the vtec.
10)add a few gallons(I will be doing the gas tank and the vac. just changed my oil 2 weeks ago)
11)drive til close to empty and refill.....enjoy better performance, gas milage, and smooth idle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks.
#16
JCL- do not try your method- bad news- go back and read directions again- the throttle is ONLY to keep the engine from stalling-
do not attempt to ~suck the seafoam from the can with throttle~ or it will do that in seconds- and you wasted a can of stuff~
A hose that fits the vac line properly WILL also fit inside the seafoam can-
Whether you dip and remove the hose while the can rest somewhere, OR you raise and lower the can up to the hose- depending on gen and where there is room- and which way the vac nipple points....when you actually LOOK under the hood it all makes sense- the pics here show the port- specific directions are given....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
be-in-my- please read the directions again as this part is wrong
8)turn on car, and idle for 1 minute- NO, start and let idle stabilize, may take a minute or 2
9)rev the engine for a little bit, and then take off hitting the vtec. NO!!! drive gently until engine runs smooth -THEN a 4000rpm run to superheat the engine and exhaust,
THEN some 10 mph to 50 mph (speed limit permitting) into vtec using full throttle to 5000-5500 rpm
DO NOT go to redline. See my prior post on this thread with extreme detailed instructions
10)add a few gallons- Sorta- add the seafoam to 1/4 tank gas before the manifold cleaning so its in there during all the warmip and cleanout drives.
ADD a few gallons when really low again and drive.
Then refill as normal and enjoy
forget most of the old seafoam threads info, and only that from the last month is 100%correct
do not attempt to ~suck the seafoam from the can with throttle~ or it will do that in seconds- and you wasted a can of stuff~
A hose that fits the vac line properly WILL also fit inside the seafoam can-
Whether you dip and remove the hose while the can rest somewhere, OR you raise and lower the can up to the hose- depending on gen and where there is room- and which way the vac nipple points....when you actually LOOK under the hood it all makes sense- the pics here show the port- specific directions are given....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
be-in-my- please read the directions again as this part is wrong
8)turn on car, and idle for 1 minute- NO, start and let idle stabilize, may take a minute or 2
9)rev the engine for a little bit, and then take off hitting the vtec. NO!!! drive gently until engine runs smooth -THEN a 4000rpm run to superheat the engine and exhaust,
THEN some 10 mph to 50 mph (speed limit permitting) into vtec using full throttle to 5000-5500 rpm
DO NOT go to redline. See my prior post on this thread with extreme detailed instructions
10)add a few gallons- Sorta- add the seafoam to 1/4 tank gas before the manifold cleaning so its in there during all the warmip and cleanout drives.
ADD a few gallons when really low again and drive.
Then refill as normal and enjoy
forget most of the old seafoam threads info, and only that from the last month is 100%correct
#17
Thanks, 01tl4tl. I'll look into doing that this Friday. Great tips, good help. I guess I got confused after watching those idiots on the youtube links. I saw some of them rev their engines before taking off.
Thanks again for clearing things up, hope this helps my car.
Thanks again for clearing things up, hope this helps my car.
#19
youtube- HAHAHAHaaaa, may as well have asked mythbusters how to do it!
The TL is a super tight clearance engine- meaning the valves and pistons come extremely close together during normal conditions- if the timing belt breaks, it DOES bend several exhaust valves- thats close together! and you will have gunge and goo trying to get loose and blow out past the exhaust valves- thats their only exit
IMO- its better to be a bit gentle and prudent in doing initial parked revs to our engines with foam in them.-
there is a parked rev limit of ~5500 built into the computer as well
The TL is a super tight clearance engine- meaning the valves and pistons come extremely close together during normal conditions- if the timing belt breaks, it DOES bend several exhaust valves- thats close together! and you will have gunge and goo trying to get loose and blow out past the exhaust valves- thats their only exit
IMO- its better to be a bit gentle and prudent in doing initial parked revs to our engines with foam in them.-
there is a parked rev limit of ~5500 built into the computer as well
#21
be in my- are you using Tier 1 gas, being chevron texaco shell 76 and some others, not the off brand econo gas- especially in type s cars with even higher compression engines than mine. 91 octane or 93 if thats what they sell in your town.
Enough crud is generated by the engine combustion that there will be stuff on the valves pistons and probably fuel injectors, make sure to run it in the gas tank too.
Why wait till friday- its less than an hour start to finsh- drives included.
With gas prices jumping every day, and oil hit a new record high of $117 a barrel today (gulp) ensuring that soon, 5 bucks a gallon is going to see like a fond memory~
anything I can do for better mileage- even 1/10 of a mile per gallon- anything- tire pressures, remove owners manual, seafoam or other product of ones choice.
I am going to honda and check out their special cleaner set- see whats in it
Enough crud is generated by the engine combustion that there will be stuff on the valves pistons and probably fuel injectors, make sure to run it in the gas tank too.
Why wait till friday- its less than an hour start to finsh- drives included.
With gas prices jumping every day, and oil hit a new record high of $117 a barrel today (gulp) ensuring that soon, 5 bucks a gallon is going to see like a fond memory~
anything I can do for better mileage- even 1/10 of a mile per gallon- anything- tire pressures, remove owners manual, seafoam or other product of ones choice.
I am going to honda and check out their special cleaner set- see whats in it
#22
I waited about 17 minutes to be exact, engine was real warm when I took off.
I let it stabilize and run for roughly a minute or two and I set off. As soon as I started moving a ploom of white smoke was coming out of the rear ... it was hilarious watching my neighbor's face drop as I drove by haha.
Did some spirited driving for about 15 or 20 minutes on some back roads .. today is a good day .
I let it stabilize and run for roughly a minute or two and I set off. As soon as I started moving a ploom of white smoke was coming out of the rear ... it was hilarious watching my neighbor's face drop as I drove by haha.
Did some spirited driving for about 15 or 20 minutes on some back roads .. today is a good day .
#23
I have a full schedule mon-thursday. As for gas, my baby takes nothing but 93 Octane V-Power. Even if I'm on E and the nearest gas station is BP, I find the nearest Shell.
I hope I don't get pulled over for doing this, my town is very strict... cops are just assholes in other words.
I remember driving home Saturday night... I drove pass a cop at 2 in the morning, and I saw him following me... one block down, he on was my ass(literally.. he was only 8-10 feet behind me). I turned on the next light, which was where I needed to go tobegin with, but it just worked out so good.. except he followed me still. He looked up the plates, I'm assuming, but the records clear. I think he was trying to pull me over for my 30% tints ( which isn't very dark, but with fog at 2 AM, it looked dark.)
Anyways, back to seafoam, I might do it tonight if I have time. Normally my Chem class ends at 8:30. Forty-five minutes to get home, and so I'll be there by 9:15. If I do it the second I get home, assuming I pick up the seafoam on the way home, I'll be done before midnight, and I can come on here and talk about how good the Seafoam worked. haha
I hope I don't get pulled over for doing this, my town is very strict... cops are just assholes in other words.
I remember driving home Saturday night... I drove pass a cop at 2 in the morning, and I saw him following me... one block down, he on was my ass(literally.. he was only 8-10 feet behind me). I turned on the next light, which was where I needed to go tobegin with, but it just worked out so good.. except he followed me still. He looked up the plates, I'm assuming, but the records clear. I think he was trying to pull me over for my 30% tints ( which isn't very dark, but with fog at 2 AM, it looked dark.)
Anyways, back to seafoam, I might do it tonight if I have time. Normally my Chem class ends at 8:30. Forty-five minutes to get home, and so I'll be there by 9:15. If I do it the second I get home, assuming I pick up the seafoam on the way home, I'll be done before midnight, and I can come on here and talk about how good the Seafoam worked. haha
#26
Originally Posted by TylerT
Do it when there's day light.
#29
Here is just some pictures of 3G incase you guys don't know.
I am gonna do a video tomorrow if I get the chance.
Anyways, this is what I bought
Vac line- 1/4 inch inside diameter.
3 bottles of seafoam(only require 1 for my procedure)
and get a disposable cup, I decided on foam cup... hopefully it won't melt it.
These are some night shots, sorry if they're bad. I'll do it better later.
the three screws in the middle are the ones you need to twist before you can remove the cover. Unscrew counter clockwise 1/4 way. then pull straight up, you will feel a strain in the back (towards the rear), just pull up. There is nothing holding it in place, just two sticks that fit snuggly into their holes.
This is the vac line, and the hose I bought at Murrays for free. The guy was cool, he gave it for free. IDK how much it was, but the inside diameter is 1/4 inch. Fits perfect.
Here is a close-up shot so you guys see what I'm talking about.
Here were my steps before but revised.
1)drive til engine is fully warm
2)Remove Vac line
3)Insert new line
4)Add seafoam to the tank 1/4 full.
5)Start engine
6)sip,sip,sip 8oz I believe
7)turn off engine
8)sit for 15 minutes
9)turn on car, and idle until the idle feels smooth. It should sound like crap at first.
10)drive around until the engine feels smooth. Take it for a few 4000k Runs. Do 10-50MPH runs after you do the 4000k RPM run. .Make sure there is no more smoke
11)add a few gallons(I will be doing the gas tank and the vac. just changed my oil 2 weeks ago)
12)drive til close to empty and refill.....enjoy better performance, gas milage, and smooth idle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, Thanks 0tl4tl
I am gonna do a video tomorrow if I get the chance.
Anyways, this is what I bought
Vac line- 1/4 inch inside diameter.
3 bottles of seafoam(only require 1 for my procedure)
and get a disposable cup, I decided on foam cup... hopefully it won't melt it.
These are some night shots, sorry if they're bad. I'll do it better later.
the three screws in the middle are the ones you need to twist before you can remove the cover. Unscrew counter clockwise 1/4 way. then pull straight up, you will feel a strain in the back (towards the rear), just pull up. There is nothing holding it in place, just two sticks that fit snuggly into their holes.
This is the vac line, and the hose I bought at Murrays for free. The guy was cool, he gave it for free. IDK how much it was, but the inside diameter is 1/4 inch. Fits perfect.
Here is a close-up shot so you guys see what I'm talking about.
Here were my steps before but revised.
1)drive til engine is fully warm
2)Remove Vac line
3)Insert new line
4)Add seafoam to the tank 1/4 full.
5)Start engine
6)sip,sip,sip 8oz I believe
7)turn off engine
8)sit for 15 minutes
9)turn on car, and idle until the idle feels smooth. It should sound like crap at first.
10)drive around until the engine feels smooth. Take it for a few 4000k Runs. Do 10-50MPH runs after you do the 4000k RPM run. .Make sure there is no more smoke
11)add a few gallons(I will be doing the gas tank and the vac. just changed my oil 2 weeks ago)
12)drive til close to empty and refill.....enjoy better performance, gas milage, and smooth idle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, Thanks 0tl4tl
#31
sounds good to me-!
nighttime is the right time! just have a flashlight and check out whats happening before you start
I would not use any foam cup and expect my hand to be there ~undamaged~ when done.
The rubber hose fits easily in the metal can- what is the problem here people?
add 8 ounces~ seafoam to intake manifold. Whatever is left in the can put in the gas tank!
add 8 oz foam to 1/4 tank gas- so you are running 2 oz foam to each 1 gal of gas
Have fun
nighttime is the right time! just have a flashlight and check out whats happening before you start
I would not use any foam cup and expect my hand to be there ~undamaged~ when done.
The rubber hose fits easily in the metal can- what is the problem here people?
add 8 ounces~ seafoam to intake manifold. Whatever is left in the can put in the gas tank!
add 8 oz foam to 1/4 tank gas- so you are running 2 oz foam to each 1 gal of gas
Have fun
#32
the plugs are not an issue! unless you have 100k and are changing them anyway
It never hurts to replace plugs that have 60k + on them, to return to peak performance, BUT its not because seafoam hurt them at all
Make sure to do the hot foot drive afterwards and no crud will stick to anything~
thats the safeguard for the plugs
It never hurts to replace plugs that have 60k + on them, to return to peak performance, BUT its not because seafoam hurt them at all
Make sure to do the hot foot drive afterwards and no crud will stick to anything~
thats the safeguard for the plugs
#35
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
sounds good to me-!
nighttime is the right time! just have a flashlight and check out whats happening before you start
I would not use any foam cup and expect my hand to be there ~undamaged~ when done.
The rubber hose fits easily in the metal can- what is the problem here people?
add 8 ounces~ seafoam to intake manifold. Whatever is left in the can put in the gas tank!
add 8 oz foam to 1/4 tank gas- so you are running 2 oz foam to each 1 gal of gas
Have fun
nighttime is the right time! just have a flashlight and check out whats happening before you start
I would not use any foam cup and expect my hand to be there ~undamaged~ when done.
The rubber hose fits easily in the metal can- what is the problem here people?
add 8 ounces~ seafoam to intake manifold. Whatever is left in the can put in the gas tank!
add 8 oz foam to 1/4 tank gas- so you are running 2 oz foam to each 1 gal of gas
Have fun
My auto parts store only had 16 oz cans of Seafoam so I put 8oz in the gas tank and was working with half a bottle from the start, so it was hard to tell where the top of the Seafoam liquid was. The exhaust smoked like crazy, which was nice to see... 52,000 miles of crud getting cleaned out. I took a video of all the smoking after I left it sit for 10-15 mins...I may post it on youtube just for kicks.
#37
wow wish we got 16oz cans! they sell it in gallons too- but not in my town
Do it again in 2000 miles- then you are good for a year.
The 2nd time- you have a feel for how little motion of the can to hose it takes to get some foam into the engine, sip sip sip- you listen to the engine and there is a sound inside the can.
If you must use a container- try a glass bottle like a beer bottle thats been washed
Plastics do bad things to human skin when they melt!!!!!
I dont know what seafoam will melt- they pack it in metal (not plastic like most cleaners)
for a reason- MY GUESS- could just be mental marketing
Do it again in 2000 miles- then you are good for a year.
The 2nd time- you have a feel for how little motion of the can to hose it takes to get some foam into the engine, sip sip sip- you listen to the engine and there is a sound inside the can.
If you must use a container- try a glass bottle like a beer bottle thats been washed
Plastics do bad things to human skin when they melt!!!!!
I dont know what seafoam will melt- they pack it in metal (not plastic like most cleaners)
for a reason- MY GUESS- could just be mental marketing
#38
Here's the video of the car smoking after the seafoam soaked for 10-15 mins. My cameraman messed up and didn't capture all of the best part when I hit the gas for the first time going up that hill like 45 secs in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJH01j6MXec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJH01j6MXec
#39
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
totalacura
are you really running the P2R AND the Outlaw spacer together?
I thought there was a vac leak issue when combined? just rumor?
are you really running the P2R AND the Outlaw spacer together?
I thought there was a vac leak issue when combined? just rumor?
#40
ahh I see now- I thought maybe you had stacked 2 different manifold spacers- its been done on here before- with poor results.
Why the change to P2 on just the TB spacer- whats the differance, I cant have one because not type s
Why the change to P2 on just the TB spacer- whats the differance, I cant have one because not type s