ReTint
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: BX
ReTint
I was thinking about retinting my windows since they are too light.
Has anyone ever took out the rear tints and nothing happen to the lines that defrost the window?
Also, about how much does a shop charge to take out old tint?
Has anyone ever took out the rear tints and nothing happen to the lines that defrost the window?
Also, about how much does a shop charge to take out old tint?
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 30
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From: Orange County, CA
In talking to 8 or so shops, I found that some shops use a razorblade for tint removal, and some use a non-razor approach. The consensus from the different tint guys I spoke with was that using a razor blade to remove tint from the rear windshield can potentially damage the rear defrost traces that span horizontally across the window. If you cut across one of the traces with a razor blade, it supposedly will kill the defrost capability for one section of the windshield, but not for the whole back windshield. I forget what the non-razor approach consisted of, but I want to say they either use a chemical to remove it or a humidifier to remove the old film.
I had a really good experience with Signature Glass Tint in Costa Mesa, CA (949.515.8468 / 670 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627). The owner Dave was actually stoked that I had 30 minutes of tint questions for him, whereas most shops were impatient and didn't seem to like in depth questions about how long they had been tinting, why they use the film they do, etc. I am going to take pictures tonight and create a separate post for people in SoCal who are looking for tint work, because they did a really nice job, and even have a no charge no fault warranty. -Kris
Yah.. as long as you go to a guy who knows what he's doing your fine. Trust me you rather pay a little more on this one and save yourself a lifetime of headaches. If you are in the BX.. I would tell you to go to Tintmax in Queens. He's the guy that does NYPD cars and mostly high end and uses 3M only and excellent excellent quality work. PM me if you want his info.
I see you have the same color combo I have, and I had to do the same thing because 20's were too light for me with the parchment interior, I had to go down to 15's with a 40 on my windshield and my shit still looks a tad lighter than a car that has a black interior with 20's. In the daytime, you can still see in the car. That's what I'd suggest for you as well.
I see you have the same color combo I have, and I had to do the same thing because 20's were too light for me with the parchment interior, I had to go down to 15's with a 40 on my windshield and my shit still looks a tad lighter than a car that has a black interior with 20's. In the daytime, you can still see in the car. That's what I'd suggest for you as well.
A lot of places use steel wool to scrub the glue off with out damaging the lines. I usually strip my own because it can get pricey.
I have also doubled up the tint in the rear to save cost when money was tight. Double 5% is some daaaark stuff. I don't recommend doubling up on roll downs.
I have also doubled up the tint in the rear to save cost when money was tight. Double 5% is some daaaark stuff. I don't recommend doubling up on roll downs.
Last edited by HEAVY_RL; Mar 12, 2009 at 01:40 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 46
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From: NYC
Yah.. as long as you go to a guy who knows what he's doing your fine. Trust me you rather pay a little more on this one and save yourself a lifetime of headaches. If you are in the BX.. I would tell you to go to Tintmax in Queens. He's the guy that does NYPD cars and mostly high end and uses 3M only and excellent excellent quality work. PM me if you want his info.
I see you have the same color combo I have, and I had to do the same thing because 20's were too light for me with the parchment interior, I had to go down to 15's with a 40 on my windshield and my shit still looks a tad lighter than a car that has a black interior with 20's. In the daytime, you can still see in the car. That's what I'd suggest for you as well.
I see you have the same color combo I have, and I had to do the same thing because 20's were too light for me with the parchment interior, I had to go down to 15's with a 40 on my windshield and my shit still looks a tad lighter than a car that has a black interior with 20's. In the daytime, you can still see in the car. That's what I'd suggest for you as well.
Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Depending on how old the tint determines the difficulity of the tint removal process. Based on your "too light" preference I am guessing that the film is still good. To take the old film off without damaging the defrosters is very simple, but does require some elbow grease.
1. Use soapy water and spray on the outside of the glass.
2. Take a black trash bag and cut it so it is only one layer, then place on outside of the glass.
3. Using ONLY a stainless steel blade cut out a pattern on the black trash bag of the clear part of the glass.
4. Spray soapy water on the inside of the glass.
5. Apply the cut out pattern of the black trash bag on the inside of the window.
6. Place outside, while allowing the back window facing the sun.
7. Check every 20-30 min to make sure water has not evaporated.
8. Use a single edge razor blade or finger nails and try to cut/peel the tint away from the window. If the tint is not coming off with ease and the glue, respray and allow to sit in the sun more.
9. Repeat #7-#9 until film is off.
10. Once tint is off, spray some ammonia onto the inside of the glass and re-apply the black trash bag on the inside of the glass.
11. Allow to sit in the sun for 30 min-1 hr.
12. Use some REALLY FINE GRIT steel wool to remove the old glue and ammonia off.
13. Wipe inside window really clean and surrounding areas. The cleaner it is the cleaner the next tint job is going to be, also makes it easier for the tinter to give you better/cleaner tint job.
I am a professional tinter. The method described above is intended for window film that is still good, but needs to be replace due to personal preference. There are many methods for different diffuculity levels of film removal.
I hope this method helps everybody.
1. Use soapy water and spray on the outside of the glass.
2. Take a black trash bag and cut it so it is only one layer, then place on outside of the glass.
3. Using ONLY a stainless steel blade cut out a pattern on the black trash bag of the clear part of the glass.
4. Spray soapy water on the inside of the glass.
5. Apply the cut out pattern of the black trash bag on the inside of the window.
6. Place outside, while allowing the back window facing the sun.
7. Check every 20-30 min to make sure water has not evaporated.
8. Use a single edge razor blade or finger nails and try to cut/peel the tint away from the window. If the tint is not coming off with ease and the glue, respray and allow to sit in the sun more.
9. Repeat #7-#9 until film is off.
10. Once tint is off, spray some ammonia onto the inside of the glass and re-apply the black trash bag on the inside of the glass.
11. Allow to sit in the sun for 30 min-1 hr.
12. Use some REALLY FINE GRIT steel wool to remove the old glue and ammonia off.
13. Wipe inside window really clean and surrounding areas. The cleaner it is the cleaner the next tint job is going to be, also makes it easier for the tinter to give you better/cleaner tint job.
I am a professional tinter. The method described above is intended for window film that is still good, but needs to be replace due to personal preference. There are many methods for different diffuculity levels of film removal.
I hope this method helps everybody.
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Cruisin'
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Sorry it is Dis-1-TL again. I forgot to mention in step #3, use ONLY a stainless olfa blade. Not the cheap blades from a hardware store. The cheap blades are too hard and with enough pressure will SCRATCH/CUT your glass.
Good luck every one.
Good luck every one.
Depending on how old the tint determines the difficulity of the tint removal process. Based on your "too light" preference I am guessing that the film is still good. To take the old film off without damaging the defrosters is very simple, but does require some elbow grease.
1. Use soapy water and spray on the outside of the glass.
2. Take a black trash bag and cut it so it is only one layer, then place on outside of the glass.
3. Using ONLY a stainless steel blade cut out a pattern on the black trash bag of the clear part of the glass.
4. Spray soapy water on the inside of the glass.
5. Apply the cut out pattern of the black trash bag on the inside of the window.
6. Place outside, while allowing the back window facing the sun.
7. Check every 20-30 min to make sure water has not evaporated.
8. Use a single edge razor blade or finger nails and try to cut/peel the tint away from the window. If the tint is not coming off with ease and the glue, respray and allow to sit in the sun more.
9. Repeat #7-#9 until film is off.
10. Once tint is off, spray some ammonia onto the inside of the glass and re-apply the black trash bag on the inside of the glass.
11. Allow to sit in the sun for 30 min-1 hr.
12. Use some REALLY FINE GRIT steel wool to remove the old glue and ammonia off.
13. Wipe inside window really clean and surrounding areas. The cleaner it is the cleaner the next tint job is going to be, also makes it easier for the tinter to give you better/cleaner tint job.
I am a professional tinter. The method described above is intended for window film that is still good, but needs to be replace due to personal preference. There are many methods for different diffuculity levels of film removal.
I hope this method helps everybody.
1. Use soapy water and spray on the outside of the glass.
2. Take a black trash bag and cut it so it is only one layer, then place on outside of the glass.
3. Using ONLY a stainless steel blade cut out a pattern on the black trash bag of the clear part of the glass.
4. Spray soapy water on the inside of the glass.
5. Apply the cut out pattern of the black trash bag on the inside of the window.
6. Place outside, while allowing the back window facing the sun.
7. Check every 20-30 min to make sure water has not evaporated.
8. Use a single edge razor blade or finger nails and try to cut/peel the tint away from the window. If the tint is not coming off with ease and the glue, respray and allow to sit in the sun more.
9. Repeat #7-#9 until film is off.
10. Once tint is off, spray some ammonia onto the inside of the glass and re-apply the black trash bag on the inside of the glass.
11. Allow to sit in the sun for 30 min-1 hr.
12. Use some REALLY FINE GRIT steel wool to remove the old glue and ammonia off.
13. Wipe inside window really clean and surrounding areas. The cleaner it is the cleaner the next tint job is going to be, also makes it easier for the tinter to give you better/cleaner tint job.
I am a professional tinter. The method described above is intended for window film that is still good, but needs to be replace due to personal preference. There are many methods for different diffuculity levels of film removal.
I hope this method helps everybody.
Got pulled over for my tint today and was issued a fix-it ticket. This isn't a cop bashing post about tint tickets. The guy was doing his job, enough said. I knew the consequence of getting illegal tint.
From what I've been able to gather, in MD, there's no "just pay the fine" option for this. I also checked the dmv and it looks like all of the tint has to come off, not just the fronts (windows - don't have windshield tint). I'm going to call the shop that did the tint for me and see what they charge to remove but it's over an hour from me so I am considering doing it myself (plus the cost savings). I've read about the "trash bag" method for the rear but I feel like using a steamer like the ones they sell for steaming clothes or small area cleaning would be easier/better. So, here are my questions:
1. Has anybody used one of these steamers to remove their tint? If so, how well did it work, especially on the rear window?
1a. Any recommended type of steamer to use?
2. What about the small rear quarter windows? Is there a good way to get that piece out considering how hard it is just getting it in there? I can see the tint coming out but not sure about getting the glue from under there.
In the end I may just suck it up and have it removed professionally to save the hassle of doing it. What blows is that I would have to have it removed, get it signed off on at the police station and then go back again if I wanted to get it redone (lighter of course).
Looks like my days of dark tint are finally over.
Thanks.
From what I've been able to gather, in MD, there's no "just pay the fine" option for this. I also checked the dmv and it looks like all of the tint has to come off, not just the fronts (windows - don't have windshield tint). I'm going to call the shop that did the tint for me and see what they charge to remove but it's over an hour from me so I am considering doing it myself (plus the cost savings). I've read about the "trash bag" method for the rear but I feel like using a steamer like the ones they sell for steaming clothes or small area cleaning would be easier/better. So, here are my questions:
1. Has anybody used one of these steamers to remove their tint? If so, how well did it work, especially on the rear window?
1a. Any recommended type of steamer to use?
2. What about the small rear quarter windows? Is there a good way to get that piece out considering how hard it is just getting it in there? I can see the tint coming out but not sure about getting the glue from under there.
In the end I may just suck it up and have it removed professionally to save the hassle of doing it. What blows is that I would have to have it removed, get it signed off on at the police station and then go back again if I wanted to get it redone (lighter of course).
Looks like my days of dark tint are finally over.
Thanks.
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