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Practicing putting oil pan in place before i put hondabond on this thing. Some of these bolts seem nearly impossible to install. This corner one in particular i cant get a socket in there. What special wrench or tool do i need or what did u guys do to get this one in ? Can that hard line be pulled up without breaking the clip, and do u really have like 5 mins to get every bolt in place and torqued down?
I have not performed one of these personally, yet; however, I have often thought strategy on the approach I'd use if I did.
To say the least, if possible, a second pair of hands, appropriately couched on what you need them to do, would be very helpful.
1) I'd narrow down a general positioning of my body, relative to the work area, that would be used to get to that positioning as quickly as possible once HB has been employed on the pan.
2) I'd determine what four oil pan bolts, closest to the corners, would give me the easiest & quickest access to thread by hand.
Preposition said bolts to reach & get them in-hand quickly to apply.
Once threaded, I'd use a mechanical driver to quickly, but slowly, fasten the oil pan onto the block; thus, getting it reasonably positioned squarely with the four bolts.
Leave just enough wiggle room so that all of the other pan bolts could be methodically threaded as quickly as possible.
3) Drive the remaining bolts up until all bolts are just tight enough, or until you notice the HB starting to push out from the two mating surfaces around the pan.
4) Once I'm reasonably satisfied with how everything looks, I'd perform the final FSM torque sequence to 8.8lbf-ft.
5) Depending on the HB used, let it cure for as long as specified on the tube instructions before adding oil to the engine & running to check for leaks.
Generally, this is all subject to adjustment, of course, once the install is underway; however, I'd practice it as often as needed to work out any 'kinks' in process.
I have not performed one of these personally, yet; however, I have often thought strategy on the approach I'd use if I did.
To say the least, if possible, a second pair of hands, appropriately couched on what you need them to do, would be very helpful.
1) I'd narrow down a general positioning of my body, relative to the work area, that would be used to get to that positioning as quickly as possible once HB has been employed on the pan.
2) I'd determine what four oil pan bolts, closest to the corners, would give me the easiest & quickest access to thread by hand.
Preposition said bolts to reach & get them in-hand quickly to apply.
Once threaded, I'd use a mechanical driver to quickly, but slowly, fasten the oil pan onto the block; thus, getting it reasonably positioned squarely with the four bolts.
Leave just enough wiggle room so that all of the other pan bolts could be methodically threaded as quickly as possible.
3) Drive the remaining bolts up until all bolts are just tight enough, or until you notice the HB starting to push out from the two mating surfaces around the pan.
4) Once I'm reasonably satisfied with how everything looks, I'd perform the final FSM torque sequence to 8.8lbf-ft.
5) Depending on the HB used, let it cure for as long as specified on the tube instructions before adding oil to the engine & running to check for leaks.
Generally, this is all subject to adjustment, of course, once the install is underway; however, I'd practice it as often as needed to work out any 'kinks' in process.
i got it. That corner bolt took forever but oh well. Itll still be a bit before i add oil i have some other maintenance and repairs to do. Praying all is good cuz i dont wanna re-do this job lol
Yea you don't need to get 100% of all the bolts installed and torqued within the time window. At a minimum I would strive for 4 bolts in the corners within the window to ensure the pan is installed as evenly as possible to the block. Then after the 1st 4 bolts are installed, start going in between the two furthest bolts and working your way inwards.
I do remember that 1 bolt in particular being the biggest PITA. IIRC I was able to tighten that bolt with a 10mm box wrench, but since it was an angled wrench, I could only get like 20* of rotation before the wrench would hit the sub-frame, so needed to flip the wrench over 180*, tighten another 20*, etc.
MAYBE I jacked the engine up a tiny bit with a floor jack by whatever amount of play was in the motor mounts.
When I was doing my oil pump (that requires dropping the oil pan) I loosened the motor mounts and lifted the engine. I did couple of those on odyssey, pilot, mdx, accord, etc. without lifting engine using combination of 1/4 inch drive swivel sockets and flat wrenches. I'm guilty of lifting one engine by the oil pan, removing most of oil pan bolts and then putting it back the same way (so lifting the engine by the freshly sealed oil pan).
But then I did only 5 or 6 of those total - 2 of them for oil pump, rest to replace pan because someone botched the repair of already damaged drain bolt ports.
BTW Anyone knows how to repair already messed up M15 threads lol? - original threads stripped, ran M15 tap and new drain bolt, some time later M15 stripped too.
