Replace Transmission at 309k?
Replace Transmission at 309k?
Hey guys, checking in from Seattle. Anyone know a solid shop around here?
I’m looking at replacing the transmission in my ’07/’08 TL. Amco quoted me two options: about $3,200 with a weak warranty, or $6,200 with a strong one. A reman runs ~$3,000 just for the trans, so ideally, I’d like to find a shop that’ll handle labor, fluids, etc. for around $1,500. On top of that, it needs rear shocks and two tires, which will tack on another ~$1,500. All in, I’m hoping $6K brings it back to solid shape.
Since 2018 I’ve dropped about $34K over 130K miles keeping this thing alive—$4K in rust work, three timing belts, two sets of mounts, and even two oil pans in a month. Still cheaper than buying new, but if I had a time machine, I’d just skip the mechanic drama. At least I learned how to keep machines running, though those modern perks like adaptive cruise and lane-keep are tempting.
That said, I’ll probably be leaving the country in 6–12 months. I’ve thought about shipping it, but more likely I’ll sell it. Even with all the work, I doubt I’d get more than $3–4K for a rust-belt car in a market where 25-year-olds have perfect paint and no rust.
For context: just last year I did timing belt/water pump (third time) plus radiator, ~$1,600. The prior two belt jobs failed due to bad Mitsuboshi parts; this one used ASIN. Mechanic said a leaky oil pump was probably killing the tensioner seals prematurely.
Since late 2023 it’s basically sat outside in Seattle’s mild, damp weather.. I only drove ~20 miles a month before the trans went. Last oil analysis showed good motor health, but with it sitting so much, could that have created new problems or worsened old ones?
Thanks.
I’m looking at replacing the transmission in my ’07/’08 TL. Amco quoted me two options: about $3,200 with a weak warranty, or $6,200 with a strong one. A reman runs ~$3,000 just for the trans, so ideally, I’d like to find a shop that’ll handle labor, fluids, etc. for around $1,500. On top of that, it needs rear shocks and two tires, which will tack on another ~$1,500. All in, I’m hoping $6K brings it back to solid shape.
Since 2018 I’ve dropped about $34K over 130K miles keeping this thing alive—$4K in rust work, three timing belts, two sets of mounts, and even two oil pans in a month. Still cheaper than buying new, but if I had a time machine, I’d just skip the mechanic drama. At least I learned how to keep machines running, though those modern perks like adaptive cruise and lane-keep are tempting.
That said, I’ll probably be leaving the country in 6–12 months. I’ve thought about shipping it, but more likely I’ll sell it. Even with all the work, I doubt I’d get more than $3–4K for a rust-belt car in a market where 25-year-olds have perfect paint and no rust.
For context: just last year I did timing belt/water pump (third time) plus radiator, ~$1,600. The prior two belt jobs failed due to bad Mitsuboshi parts; this one used ASIN. Mechanic said a leaky oil pump was probably killing the tensioner seals prematurely.
Since late 2023 it’s basically sat outside in Seattle’s mild, damp weather.. I only drove ~20 miles a month before the trans went. Last oil analysis showed good motor health, but with it sitting so much, could that have created new problems or worsened old ones?
Thanks.
Is the trans slipping or has it failed?
You can always get an accord transmission installed that should get you through the next 6-12 months and then sell the car. The value of the car has bottomed out so even if you put more $$$ into it, you won't get much back when selling.
If you have access to some tools and a jack, you can do the rear shocks yourself (should be 2hrs labor because the backseat has to come out), and you can buy a full shock/strut that will save time/$$$ for the swap like this for $60 each:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15174&jsn=570
I'm running those on my TL and they have been fine for the last 30K miles on the rear.
If you decide to do the trans, might be worth it to check and fix the rear main seal on the engine if it is leaking.
You can always get an accord transmission installed that should get you through the next 6-12 months and then sell the car. The value of the car has bottomed out so even if you put more $$$ into it, you won't get much back when selling.
If you have access to some tools and a jack, you can do the rear shocks yourself (should be 2hrs labor because the backseat has to come out), and you can buy a full shock/strut that will save time/$$$ for the swap like this for $60 each:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15174&jsn=570
I'm running those on my TL and they have been fine for the last 30K miles on the rear.
If you decide to do the trans, might be worth it to check and fix the rear main seal on the engine if it is leaking.
Pretty sure it's failed. I'll put into drive, and it'll just sit there for a few seconds to a minute, maybe jerk or slam into motion if that makes sense. So, that sounds like a failure, eh?
Interesting about the trans swap! I did not know you could do the Accord trans swap into an 07/08. I thought that was just for the 06 and older...
Interesting about the trans swap! I did not know you could do the Accord trans swap into an 07/08. I thought that was just for the 06 and older...
Pretty sure it's failed. I'll put into drive, and it'll just sit there for a few seconds to a minute, maybe jerk or slam into motion if that makes sense. So, that sounds like a failure, eh?
Interesting about the trans swap! I did not know you could do the Accord trans swap into an 07/08. I thought that was just for the 06 and older...
Interesting about the trans swap! I did not know you could do the Accord trans swap into an 07/08. I thought that was just for the 06 and older...
There aren't any Accord transmissions which will fit your car. Even if there were, you wouldn't want one, the H5 automatic transmission for the 2007 and 2008 TL were the best of the H5s available. If you're having issues with your transmission, your best bet is to have it rebuilt/remanufactured, or replaced with a used unit from another 2007-2008 TL.
If I have to do bigger project at car I usually try to go to u-pull for parts. Reason for it is that I learn at u-pull what I should do. If I brake something just go to another car there, not at my own car. Owners of u-pull do not care about me braking something there either.
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Last edited by bbsitum; Sep 15, 2025 at 09:52 AM.
That's not RockAuto
, here i thought they were selling full transmissions along with magnets www.rockauto.com
, here i thought they were selling full transmissions along with magnets www.rockauto.com
Transmission Issues - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
Just curious, did adjusting your range switch fix the 'issue' you had on your AutoZone remanufactured trans. discussed on the thread below?
Transmission Issues - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
Transmission Issues - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
Last edited by CenturionTL; Sep 17, 2025 at 03:40 PM.
The ATF is at its proper height on the dipstick after checking with the car on level ground, engine off, & at operating temp?
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