Removing/Moving the Cigarette Lighter/Power Outlet in Front Center Console
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Removing/Moving the Cigarette Lighter/Power Outlet in Front Center Console
I'm in the middle of planning my "multimedia" install and thought it would be nice if I could move the cig lighter/power outlet to another location... like further back in the lower compartment.
So I found this post on how to remove the center console and this picture of the parts:
They are helpful, but not what I wanted. I guess I want to know if its possible to re-route the power outlet to somewhere behind the dash. I mean is there a harness of some sort that will unplug from the power outlet (in the lower front compartment) that I can take and plug into another power outlet? Or even easier, is it possible to remove the power outlet from the compartment and move it further back? Removing the power outlet from the compartment would be nice, but not necessary.
I would like to plug a power adapter there but I would still like the compartment door to close.
I guess another possibility is just to leave everything the way it is and add an additional power outlet behind the dash somehow? Add-a-circuit from location #32 of the fuse box?
Suggestions? Comments? Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced. Hope you guys understand what I'm trying to do.
So I found this post on how to remove the center console and this picture of the parts:
They are helpful, but not what I wanted. I guess I want to know if its possible to re-route the power outlet to somewhere behind the dash. I mean is there a harness of some sort that will unplug from the power outlet (in the lower front compartment) that I can take and plug into another power outlet? Or even easier, is it possible to remove the power outlet from the compartment and move it further back? Removing the power outlet from the compartment would be nice, but not necessary.
I would like to plug a power adapter there but I would still like the compartment door to close.
I guess another possibility is just to leave everything the way it is and add an additional power outlet behind the dash somehow? Add-a-circuit from location #32 of the fuse box?
Suggestions? Comments? Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced. Hope you guys understand what I'm trying to do.
#2
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I am trying to keep a clean stock look. If you plug anything into that cig lighter/power outlet, you will not be able to close the compartment door. I would like to keep my wiring concealed. That is why I was thinking of either moving the outlet back or using another outlet behind the dash.
I have found a device that will require 5V/2A. I have a car adapter for it, so there is no need for a power inverter. I don't plan on plugging any other devices to my car. Once I have this mysterious device working, I wouldn't need anything else.
I rather not splice/tap into any factory wiring for warranty reasons, but then again removing that outlet wouldn't help either.
As of now, the solution in post #2 seems like its the best.
I have found a device that will require 5V/2A. I have a car adapter for it, so there is no need for a power inverter. I don't plan on plugging any other devices to my car. Once I have this mysterious device working, I wouldn't need anything else.
I rather not splice/tap into any factory wiring for warranty reasons, but then again removing that outlet wouldn't help either.
As of now, the solution in post #2 seems like its the best.
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
After some further investigation, I think I will have access to the back of the compartments once I remove the center console.
The following picture is taken from the center console removal instructions.
Once that is done, I can make hole cutouts in the back of the compartments to run wires and such. Can someone please confirm? Thanks!
The following picture is taken from the center console removal instructions.
Once that is done, I can make hole cutouts in the back of the compartments to run wires and such. Can someone please confirm? Thanks!
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#8
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Originally Posted by datmrman
After some further investigation, I think I will have access to the back of the compartments once I remove the center console.
The following picture is taken from the center console removal instructions.
Once that is done, I can make hole cutouts in the back of the compartments to run wires and such. Can someone please confirm? Thanks!
The following picture is taken from the center console removal instructions.
Once that is done, I can make hole cutouts in the back of the compartments to run wires and such. Can someone please confirm? Thanks!
#9
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I did a Sirius S50 install and had the same issue: how to power the danged thing. It comes with a car adapter. I got a socket like the one in the first picture above (of the two sockets). Once I removed the console (I needed to remove the rear half in order to run the antenna to the back under the carpet/rear seats), I tapped the wire going to the accesory socket. There were several places for a chassis ground with several screws/bolts available that go to metal. There's also a fair amount of extra space under the cupholder and the rest of the console, but not that much behind these compartments. The exploded view above implies that all these parts are separate, but they aren't. Also, the lower compartment is smaller than the upper. Behind all this are electronics (ECU and such). The radio/nav is above.
Note that the accessory outlets are powered through a relay and their own fuse. This means they are off when you remove the key. You can short around the relay on the panel if you chose to, but I did not.
You don't say whether you have a manual or auto. The picture above is for the manual. For the auto, the silver trim piece around the shifter has to come off first. It's plastic so be careful prying it up with a screwdriver. Wrap some tape or something around the screwdriver so you don't scratch anything.
I think you need to pull the two metal strips up that run down both sides of the console. Start from the rear and work forward. They pop out. After that, its just a matter of getting the screws out. Honda just can't seem to use common screws, they're all different. So keep them straight.
Note that the accessory outlets are powered through a relay and their own fuse. This means they are off when you remove the key. You can short around the relay on the panel if you chose to, but I did not.
You don't say whether you have a manual or auto. The picture above is for the manual. For the auto, the silver trim piece around the shifter has to come off first. It's plastic so be careful prying it up with a screwdriver. Wrap some tape or something around the screwdriver so you don't scratch anything.
I think you need to pull the two metal strips up that run down both sides of the console. Start from the rear and work forward. They pop out. After that, its just a matter of getting the screws out. Honda just can't seem to use common screws, they're all different. So keep them straight.
#10
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II did a Sirius S50 install and had the same issue: how to power the danged thing. It comes with a car adapter. I got a socket like the one in the first picture above (of the two sockets). Once I removed the console (I needed to remove the rear half in order to run the antenna to the back under the carpet/rear seats), I tapped the wire going to the accesory socket. There were several places for a chassis ground with several screws/bolts available that go to metal. There's also a fair amount of extra space under the cupholder and the rest of the console, but not that much behind these compartments. The exploded view above implies that all these parts are separate, but they aren't. Also, the lower compartment is smaller than the upper. Behind all this are electronics (ECU and such). The radio/nav is above.
Note that the accessory outlets are powered through a relay and their own fuse. This means they are off when you remove the key. You can short around the relay on the panel if you chose to, but I did not.
You don't say whether you have a manual or auto. The picture above is for the manual. For the auto, the silver trim piece around the shifter has to come off first. It's plastic so be careful prying it up with a screwdriver. Wrap some tape or something around the screwdriver so you don't scratch anything.
I think you need to pull the two metal strips up that run down both sides of the console. Start from the rear and work forward. They pop out. After that, its just a matter of getting the screws out. Honda just can't seem to use common screws, they're all different. So keep them straight.
You may also need to move the rear half of the console. I think all you have to do is move it about half an inch to the rear. There are screws under the rubber mat in the bottom of the storage area. Don't pull the whole thing back too far, there are wires underneath. The manual says you have to remove the rear console as well as both dash and passenger lower trim. This is only if you need to get the whole front center console out. Once you can get to the screws, you can push the plastic side panels out of the way without having to remove them completely.
That center piece you're going to remove has 1 connector for the lighter and two for the heated seats.
Note that the accessory outlets are powered through a relay and their own fuse. This means they are off when you remove the key. You can short around the relay on the panel if you chose to, but I did not.
You don't say whether you have a manual or auto. The picture above is for the manual. For the auto, the silver trim piece around the shifter has to come off first. It's plastic so be careful prying it up with a screwdriver. Wrap some tape or something around the screwdriver so you don't scratch anything.
I think you need to pull the two metal strips up that run down both sides of the console. Start from the rear and work forward. They pop out. After that, its just a matter of getting the screws out. Honda just can't seem to use common screws, they're all different. So keep them straight.
You may also need to move the rear half of the console. I think all you have to do is move it about half an inch to the rear. There are screws under the rubber mat in the bottom of the storage area. Don't pull the whole thing back too far, there are wires underneath. The manual says you have to remove the rear console as well as both dash and passenger lower trim. This is only if you need to get the whole front center console out. Once you can get to the screws, you can push the plastic side panels out of the way without having to remove them completely.
That center piece you're going to remove has 1 connector for the lighter and two for the heated seats.
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
jmbnova and weedeater, thanks for your tips and constructive comments.
Nice catch! I'll search some more for the automatic version.
Other than that, I think I know what I need to do now. Thanks again!
Originally Posted by weedeater
You don't say whether you have a manual or auto. The picture above is for the manual. For the auto, the silver trim piece around the shifter has to come off first. It's plastic so be careful prying it up with a screwdriver. Wrap some tape or something around the screwdriver so you don't scratch anything.
Other than that, I think I know what I need to do now. Thanks again!
#12
WDP Director of R & D
I actually just did this removal/install this past weekend. The above info is great and I would add that with the 5AT as mentioned, remove the silver trim around the shifter, also remove the wood/plood piece beneath the silver trim, and remove the shifter knob. Both the silver and wood trim pieces pop straight up and out quite easily. The shifter knob just unscrews. With all of the above removed and placing the shifter in D etc., it gives you plenty of room to manipulate the center console assembly up and out.
The trickiest part to the whole console removal job is removing the two "strips" of silver trim on either side of the console. I will strongly agree that you start from the rear which pull up easily all the way to the final 4 clips located within the last 5 inches of trim, up next to the HVAC and radio controls etc.. Be very careful not to bend or crease the trim. Refer to figure #9 in your first post. See the 4 clips/retainers on the upper thin area of the silver trim?? The center two are the buggers and are different than the 1st and 4th. I "carefully" used a small screwdriver to help release them.
You may try removing everything without taking the silver trim all the way off, - leave the last 4 clips/thin are of silver trim attached (just have someone help - gently hold them out of the way etc..). I didn't do this but that is my plan if I return to that area.
good luck
The trickiest part to the whole console removal job is removing the two "strips" of silver trim on either side of the console. I will strongly agree that you start from the rear which pull up easily all the way to the final 4 clips located within the last 5 inches of trim, up next to the HVAC and radio controls etc.. Be very careful not to bend or crease the trim. Refer to figure #9 in your first post. See the 4 clips/retainers on the upper thin area of the silver trim?? The center two are the buggers and are different than the 1st and 4th. I "carefully" used a small screwdriver to help release them.
You may try removing everything without taking the silver trim all the way off, - leave the last 4 clips/thin are of silver trim attached (just have someone help - gently hold them out of the way etc..). I didn't do this but that is my plan if I return to that area.
good luck
#17
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Best to check the 1st Gen. CL forum, where I found this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=lighter+power
You might find a better thread with photos or diagram with a better search than my quick search, too.
G/L, and welcome to AZ.
You might find a better thread with photos or diagram with a better search than my quick search, too.
G/L, and welcome to AZ.
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