REDLINE in my system !!!
12-04-2011, 09:51 PM
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12-04-2011, 10:02 PM
#122
Team Owner
Lol. I think a dino 10w-30 is good to the mid teens. A syn 5w-30 is definitely good to the low teens. However, if it never got up to full temp such as very short trips I would use the 20wt.
How's the car run at your mileage? Engine still quiet?
How's the car run at your mileage? Engine still quiet?
12-04-2011, 10:06 PM
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I recently started getting a little noise from the tensioner (only audible when you open the hood and try to listen for it)
It has just been 30K miles since the timing belt change (i got it done at 133K miles 
) and some lights in the interior are giving up....other than than all the connections/actuators/lines/belts/wires/plugs are doing fine *knock on wood*but overall still feels like new....the past 80K miles i have meticulously maintained her....the first 20K maintenance was done at the dealership.....
(got it CPO at 60K miles)
Last edited by swoosh; 12-04-2011 at 10:08 PM.
12-04-2011, 10:59 PM
#124
Intermediate
Well I guess I explained it to you guys wrong, I feel as if I don't as much compared to other people and my parents. I've owned the car since March of 2011 and started at 108k, so 10k miles in about 9-10 months. I also had a full timing belt change, everything from Superior Acura. Kansas weather changes all the time, winter is usually 0-20's but last year I remember days in the negatives after school.
Really though I just want to know the best oil needed since I clearly don't know anything about motor oil. Sitting at 118k 0-20's winter, summer of 2011 got to mid 90's and low 100's, I want my baby to run as long as possible. That is also why I consider doing a ATF flush and pressure switches.
Oh and Swoosh, I like to enjoy an excitement too, my baby roars when I tell it! haha
Really though I just want to know the best oil needed since I clearly don't know anything about motor oil. Sitting at 118k 0-20's winter, summer of 2011 got to mid 90's and low 100's, I want my baby to run as long as possible. That is also why I consider doing a ATF flush and pressure switches.
Oh and Swoosh, I like to enjoy an excitement too, my baby roars when I tell it! haha
12-04-2011, 11:14 PM
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^^^ hahaha yeah, i just checked you do too....am in Olathe....we should meet up
I met up with Steven Bell today, helped him install something on his car....will wait for him to disclose the details
check this thread out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/missouri-kansas-lets-do-something-825748/
I met up with Steven Bell today, helped him install something on his car....will wait for him to disclose the details
check this thread out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/missouri-kansas-lets-do-something-825748/
12-04-2011, 11:31 PM
#128
Team Owner
Well I guess I explained it to you guys wrong, I feel as if I don't as much compared to other people and my parents. I've owned the car since March of 2011 and started at 108k, so 10k miles in about 9-10 months. I also had a full timing belt change, everything from Superior Acura. Kansas weather changes all the time, winter is usually 0-20's but last year I remember days in the negatives after school.
Really though I just want to know the best oil needed since I clearly don't know anything about motor oil. Sitting at 118k 0-20's winter, summer of 2011 got to mid 90's and low 100's, I want my baby to run as long as possible. That is also why I consider doing a ATF flush and pressure switches.
Oh and Swoosh, I like to enjoy an excitement too, my baby roars when I tell it! haha
Really though I just want to know the best oil needed since I clearly don't know anything about motor oil. Sitting at 118k 0-20's winter, summer of 2011 got to mid 90's and low 100's, I want my baby to run as long as possible. That is also why I consider doing a ATF flush and pressure switches.
Oh and Swoosh, I like to enjoy an excitement too, my baby roars when I tell it! haha
Redline 5w-20 will offer more protection than most 5w-30 oils will due to it's high HTHS value. So you'll get the cold flow of a 20wt and the hot protection of a 30wt.
12-04-2011, 11:39 PM
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Ideally, a 20wt in the winter, 30wt in the summer would be ideal for a climate like that. However, either oil will work year round just fine.
Redline 5w-20 will offer more protection than most 5w-30 oils will due to it's high HTHS value. So you'll get the cold flow of a 20wt and the hot protection of a 30wt.
Redline 5w-20 will offer more protection than most 5w-30 oils will due to it's high HTHS value. So you'll get the cold flow of a 20wt and the hot protection of a 30wt.
Redline and oil weight of 5w-20 for cold climates and 5w-30 for warm weather....
Watermelon: I told you to go Penn coz i thought u dont drive as much (~5K per year)....but if you drive, get redline bro....cant go wrong....
Initally I wanted to do the 5w-30 summer and 5w-20 winter switch ups, but it never happened since either the miles or the months didnt match up right
so I thought of sticking with 5w-30....Now moving on to the tranny, read the thread I asked you to.....its by Inaccurate and talk about optimum % of racing fluid.....go thro it....pretty good stuff !!!
12-05-2011, 12:05 AM
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hahaha might as well
12-06-2011, 12:03 AM
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^^^ good catch....
out of excitement, i posted that on page2....that is my mistake....
i am at 4x3 which is 87% of fresh fluid....can wait for 210K (50K to go) miles....thats when I will do another 4x3
out of excitement, i posted that on page2....that is my mistake....
i am at 4x3 which is 87% of fresh fluid....can wait for 210K (50K to go) miles....thats when I will do another 4x3
12-06-2011, 10:39 AM
#135
Placed an order for Redline Racing ATF for $112 from outdoorpros WOOT WOOT lol. Used the coupon lol. I tried using the coupon for the engine oil but it wouldn't allow me to. Anyways my Tranny has the issue where it shudders between 25-30, kinda like driving over the rumble strips on the highway. I'm going to change the pressure switches as well. Hopefully it cures the tranny if not i guess off to the dealer i go. My powertrain warranty expires 02/28/13 or 70,000 miles. Currently at 47k. Side note - I owned a 2000 base tl Awhile ago and i have the same exact symptoms..my life is ruined ..
12-06-2011, 12:23 PM
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^^^ but they dont have Redline engine oil....i just checked last night....
but yeah if it shudders and you have warranty why dont you just take it to the dealer and get ur tranny replaced/problem fixed ?
coz you can put in redline and switches which will cure the symptoms but NOT fix the problem....i hope you catching my drift....
if i were you, I would take it in, get it fixed and then put the redline in....coz you dont want the dealership to say "ohhh this fluid messed up your tranny"
but yeah if it shudders and you have warranty why dont you just take it to the dealer and get ur tranny replaced/problem fixed ?
coz you can put in redline and switches which will cure the symptoms but NOT fix the problem....i hope you catching my drift....
if i were you, I would take it in, get it fixed and then put the redline in....coz you dont want the dealership to say "ohhh this fluid messed up your tranny"
12-06-2011, 12:57 PM
#137
lol i figured something like that.. i was 80% sure i needed the tranny replaced. But i didn't want something re manufactured you know and wanted to first fix it myself. Anyways I made an appointment with dealer tomorrow. Will be dropping it off. They said turn around time is about 2 days. As soon as i get it i plan to drop in the Redline Racing ATF.. and as for the engine oil i searched and it came up..not sure why it doesn't come up for you. http://www.outdoorpros.com/Search.as...ine+engine+oil
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12-06-2011, 01:12 PM
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^^^ thanks for the link bro....
as for re-manufactured tranny am not too experienced about that but this is a quote from Inaccurate:
as for re-manufactured tranny am not too experienced about that but this is a quote from Inaccurate:
Is this a new car or an older car getting a freshly rebuilt transmission? It doesn't really matter. I am just curious.
Obviously, you need to let the shop use their fluid when they install the rebuilt transmission. You would not want to have them pointing the finger at you and your "special" fluid if something didn't work correctly with the rebuilt (unproven) unit.
I would drive with their fluid for a few days to make sure the unit doesn't have any obvious problems. Plus, driving for a few days will flush out any debris that might be in there.
After a few days, you can add the Racing fluid. I see no technical reason why you can't do the full-blown 65% Racing mixture.
All of the above applies to either a new car or an older car getting a freshly rebuilt transmission.
If this is a new car, then there is the issue of the trans have new gears. An argument could be made that the new gears need time to break-in. That is, new gears need time to become mated together. As a general rule, synthetic fluids and synthetic oils protect too well against wear thus preventing the parts from properly mating together.
Not using synthetic motor oil in a fresh engine is very important (vital) to allow the piston rings to lap/mate to the cylinder walls. However in the case of the new gears in a new trans, I feel (not a fact, just my opinion) that the gears will be just fine with the synthetic atf.
I did a quick google search on the topic of breaking-in an automatic transmission because I found your question to be intriguing. This reply is reflective of that quick search.
Obviously, you need to let the shop use their fluid when they install the rebuilt transmission. You would not want to have them pointing the finger at you and your "special" fluid if something didn't work correctly with the rebuilt (unproven) unit.
I would drive with their fluid for a few days to make sure the unit doesn't have any obvious problems. Plus, driving for a few days will flush out any debris that might be in there.
After a few days, you can add the Racing fluid. I see no technical reason why you can't do the full-blown 65% Racing mixture.
All of the above applies to either a new car or an older car getting a freshly rebuilt transmission.
If this is a new car, then there is the issue of the trans have new gears. An argument could be made that the new gears need time to break-in. That is, new gears need time to become mated together. As a general rule, synthetic fluids and synthetic oils protect too well against wear thus preventing the parts from properly mating together.
Not using synthetic motor oil in a fresh engine is very important (vital) to allow the piston rings to lap/mate to the cylinder walls. However in the case of the new gears in a new trans, I feel (not a fact, just my opinion) that the gears will be just fine with the synthetic atf.
I did a quick google search on the topic of breaking-in an automatic transmission because I found your question to be intriguing. This reply is reflective of that quick search.
01-05-2012, 08:27 PM
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^^^ like a sexy bish LOL...
I travel for work so take her out like once in 3 weeks....i do couple good runs, couple enjoying the exhaust runs....and she shifts just perfect....
the other day i was doing the run and the road was a tad bit wet....i shift her down to second took the turn @ 35mph and when i stepped on her she was spinning 2nd @ 3000-3500 rpm, eased on the gas and then shifted to 3rd....that shift left a big impression on me, it was one of the quickest shifts i have felt (not that i can feel the difference between 1 millisecond and 1.3 milisecond but you know what am talking about right...i was driving her after i got my TB bored and was so damn happy with the outcome for power and the shift from the Redline....have never seen the Z1 shift like the Type F....this was like wayyyyy superior....
I travel for work so take her out like once in 3 weeks....i do couple good runs, couple enjoying the exhaust runs....and she shifts just perfect....
the other day i was doing the run and the road was a tad bit wet....i shift her down to second took the turn @ 35mph and when i stepped on her she was spinning 2nd @ 3000-3500 rpm, eased on the gas and then shifted to 3rd....that shift left a big impression on me, it was one of the quickest shifts i have felt (not that i can feel the difference between 1 millisecond and 1.3 milisecond but you know what am talking about right...i was driving her after i got my TB bored and was so damn happy with the outcome for power and the shift from the Redline....have never seen the Z1 shift like the Type F....this was like wayyyyy superior....
01-09-2012, 04:27 PM
#141
I'm curious...if I want to maintain the smooth shifts, should I use Redline D4? My car only has 68k miles, and I'm going to do the switches and figured I'd do the 3x3 at the same time.
Recommendations? Will the Type F (I'm assuming that's what swoosh used?) make the transmission last longer than the D4? I just want the best protection, to be honest.
Thanks, and sorry to thread jack...just searched and found this so i figured I'd post here
Recommendations? Will the Type F (I'm assuming that's what swoosh used?) make the transmission last longer than the D4? I just want the best protection, to be honest.
Thanks, and sorry to thread jack...just searched and found this so i figured I'd post here
01-09-2012, 07:18 PM
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Read this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
I have done a 4x3 with Type F and am not experiencing any flaring/issues....i am still undecided between going all type F or introducing some D4 or Lightweight in my tranny....but will keep this thread updated....
Also are you in KC ?
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
I have done a 4x3 with Type F and am not experiencing any flaring/issues....i am still undecided between going all type F or introducing some D4 or Lightweight in my tranny....but will keep this thread updated....
Also are you in KC ?
01-09-2012, 08:08 PM
#143
Read this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
I have done a 4x3 with Type F and am not experiencing any flaring/issues....i am still undecided between going all type F or introducing some D4 or Lightweight in my tranny....but will keep this thread updated....
Also are you in KC ?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
I have done a 4x3 with Type F and am not experiencing any flaring/issues....i am still undecided between going all type F or introducing some D4 or Lightweight in my tranny....but will keep this thread updated....
Also are you in KC ?
I'll read that thread before I ask any more questions. Thanks again dude.
01-09-2012, 08:22 PM
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^^^ np ....
a lot of new KC members....we all should meet up
a lot of new KC members....we all should meet up
01-09-2012, 10:25 PM
#145
I usually just take my car to the dealership and get the trans fluid flushed but not my code has came up that it needs done again. After reading all this I would like to switch to Redline after all the good reviews. Im not quite understanding the 1x3, 2x3, 3x3.. Could someone explain how I would start out switching the fluid... Also im at 205k miles... Sorry for a NOOB question..... :/
01-10-2012, 01:12 AM
#146
Mons shaver
I usually just take my car to the dealership and get the trans fluid flushed but not my code has came up that it needs done again. After reading all this I would like to switch to Redline after all the good reviews. Im not quite understanding the 1x3, 2x3, 3x3.. Could someone explain how I would start out switching the fluid... Also im at 205k miles... Sorry for a NOOB question..... :/
There is another thread that discusses what percentage is optimal based on Inaccurate's findings.
Here's a couple of my questions:
1. Is the Redline ATF, just called Redline Racing ATF? I was going to buy it on Amazon, but wanted to make sure I got the right thing.
2. I think its 3 quarts per fill, but having extra would be good. Is that right?
3. What is the stock Acura ATF? Is it Z or DW or something else?
01-10-2012, 09:49 AM
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I usually just take my car to the dealership and get the trans fluid flushed but not my code has came up that it needs done again. After reading all this I would like to switch to Redline after all the good reviews. Im not quite understanding the 1x3, 2x3, 3x3.. Could someone explain how I would start out switching the fluid... Also im at 205k miles... Sorry for a NOOB question..... :/
so you do 3 times and you drain 3 qts....hence 3x3
if you do the drain and refill 4 times and it drains 3 qts, its 4x3
the dealer usually just suck the fluid out and hence the metal shavings are stuck in your tranny.....i would NOT recommend this....
and WOW 205K miles
Please also read this thread (atleast until page 3 or 4 it will give you an idea of which route you wanna go)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
Also change the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches...more info on them here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/very-interesting-conversation-my-transmission-builder-tl-721508/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/
The 1,2,3 thing is the number of fill and pour replacements of ATF they've done. It is usually recommended that you drain your ATF, refill with Redline or other racing ATF, then drive it around for a while. Later you'd repeat the process, at this point you'd be on 2x3. Then of course, you'd drive around and finish the 3x3.
There is another thread that discusses what percentage is optimal based on Inaccurate's findings.
Here's a couple of my questions:
1. Is the Redline ATF, just called Redline Racing ATF? I was going to buy it on Amazon, but wanted to make sure I got the right thing.
2. I think its 3 quarts per fill, but having extra would be good. Is that right?
3. What is the stock Acura ATF? Is it Z or DW or something else?
There is another thread that discusses what percentage is optimal based on Inaccurate's findings.
Here's a couple of my questions:
1. Is the Redline ATF, just called Redline Racing ATF? I was going to buy it on Amazon, but wanted to make sure I got the right thing.
2. I think its 3 quarts per fill, but having extra would be good. Is that right?
3. What is the stock Acura ATF? Is it Z or DW or something else?
People also mix Redline D4 to it Part#30504
and Lightweight Racing Part#30314
you ask why they mix this....let me explain:
The stock fluid has too many FM (Friction Modifiers) to get a smoother shift...yes smoother shifts but they lag....hence it hurts your tranny....imagine slowly disengaging and engaging a gear....you will not feel it, but there will be some damage to the clutch/gear....
The Type F is a thicker fluid and with 0 FM's....hence you will get a very quick shift....very snappy....but you will be able to barely feel the shift....
Since the Type F is very thick, they add Lightweight Racing....this way your fluid will be at stock Z1/DW1 thickness....
To get a little more comfy shifts they introduce some FM's....D4.....hence your tranny now has some FM's (way less than stock Z1) and its same thickness as your stock fluid and it shifts better....
go ahead read the links i posted above for more info
01-10-2012, 04:33 PM
#148
Ok so im going to order some redline AT fluid and drain it and fill it with 3 quarts and drive it around for about 10 min and repeat the process 3 times so the transmission has all redline fluid.. Correct?
01-10-2012, 04:44 PM
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^^^ well i like to give new fluid some time....so the tranny can get comfy with it.....
i drove for 1000 miles before another drain and refill....
as you can see in the main post:
147000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
148000 miles: Transmission 1x3
149000 miles: Transmission 1x3
150000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
so in 4k miles i did my 4x3.....i suggest giving ur tranny atleast 100-200 miles....but its ur call
i drove for 1000 miles before another drain and refill....
as you can see in the main post:
147000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
148000 miles: Transmission 1x3
149000 miles: Transmission 1x3
150000 miles: Oil Change and Transmission 1x3
so in 4k miles i did my 4x3.....i suggest giving ur tranny atleast 100-200 miles....but its ur call
01-10-2012, 05:06 PM
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^^^ glad you asked....
a drain and refill is done with 3 quarts (drain 3qts and then refill 3 qts)....you will do this process 4 times....with an interval of 100+ miles....
a drain and refill is done with 3 quarts (drain 3qts and then refill 3 qts)....you will do this process 4 times....with an interval of 100+ miles....
01-10-2012, 06:43 PM
#152
I probably look like a idiot but thanks! lol
Im going to order the redline fluid and do 1x3 every thousand miles as long as my AT responds well... Thanks for the tips! What is the best site to order it from and how much do u recommend I order?
Im going to order the redline fluid and do 1x3 every thousand miles as long as my AT responds well... Thanks for the tips! What is the best site to order it from and how much do u recommend I order?
01-10-2012, 07:09 PM
#153
Mons shaver
the AT tranny is only 7.8qts....but when you drain only 3 qts come out....the other is stuck in the torque converter.....so the procedure to do a full flush is to repeat the process 3 or 4 times....
so you do 3 times and you drain 3 qts....hence 3x3
if you do the drain and refill 4 times and it drains 3 qts, its 4x3
the dealer usually just suck the fluid out and hence the metal shavings are stuck in your tranny.....i would NOT recommend this....
and WOW 205K miles
Please also read this thread (atleast until page 3 or 4 it will give you an idea of which route you wanna go)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
Also change the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches...more info on them here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721508
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149
The redline I have is Redline Type F Part# 30304
People also mix Redline D4 to it Part#30504
and Lightweight Racing Part#30314
you ask why they mix this....let me explain:
The stock fluid has too many FM (Friction Modifiers) to get a smoother shift...yes smoother shifts but they lag....hence it hurts your tranny....imagine slowly disengaging and engaging a gear....you will not feel it, but there will be some damage to the clutch/gear....
The Type F is a thicker fluid and with 0 FM's....hence you will get a very quick shift....very snappy....but you will be able to barely feel the shift....
Since the Type F is very thick, they add Lightweight Racing....this way your fluid will be at stock Z1/DW1 thickness....
To get a little more comfy shifts they introduce some FM's....D4.....hence your tranny now has some FM's (way less than stock Z1) and its same thickness as your stock fluid and it shifts better....
go ahead read the links i posted above for more info
so you do 3 times and you drain 3 qts....hence 3x3
if you do the drain and refill 4 times and it drains 3 qts, its 4x3
the dealer usually just suck the fluid out and hence the metal shavings are stuck in your tranny.....i would NOT recommend this....
and WOW 205K miles
Please also read this thread (atleast until page 3 or 4 it will give you an idea of which route you wanna go)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
Also change the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches...more info on them here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721508
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149
The redline I have is Redline Type F Part# 30304
People also mix Redline D4 to it Part#30504
and Lightweight Racing Part#30314
you ask why they mix this....let me explain:
The stock fluid has too many FM (Friction Modifiers) to get a smoother shift...yes smoother shifts but they lag....hence it hurts your tranny....imagine slowly disengaging and engaging a gear....you will not feel it, but there will be some damage to the clutch/gear....
The Type F is a thicker fluid and with 0 FM's....hence you will get a very quick shift....very snappy....but you will be able to barely feel the shift....
Since the Type F is very thick, they add Lightweight Racing....this way your fluid will be at stock Z1/DW1 thickness....
To get a little more comfy shifts they introduce some FM's....D4.....hence your tranny now has some FM's (way less than stock Z1) and its same thickness as your stock fluid and it shifts better....
go ahead read the links i posted above for more info
I just got to get off my lazy ass and get some Redline to get the process started. Being in Hawaii, its a little more problematic due to shipping costs to get the stuff out here.
01-10-2012, 09:25 PM
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This is exactly what I'm shooting for. I want to avoid changing out to all Type F Racing ATF, so I was going to do 1x3 maybe 2x3 then doing regular switches between stock DW1 and Redline, or maybe a combo like Inaccurate mentioned in the other thread.
I just got to get off my lazy ass and get some Redline to get the process started. Being in Hawaii, its a little more problematic due to shipping costs to get the stuff out here.
I just got to get off my lazy ass and get some Redline to get the process started. Being in Hawaii, its a little more problematic due to shipping costs to get the stuff out here.
01-11-2012, 01:31 PM
#155
IHC any validity to this article I found comparing motor oils like Redline and RP? http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf Also whats your opinion on RP?
06-13-2012, 02:24 PM
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Wanted to check back in and post an update:
I am now sitting at 159,000 miles....it has been
12,000 miles since my 1x4
11,000 miles since my 2x4
10,000 miles since my 3x4
and 9,000 miles since my 4x4
Also I did my first engine oil change with Rdline at 147,000 miles with 5w30....at 150,000 miles i did another oil change with 5W30....at 157,300 I did another oil change with Redline 5w20 (4 qts) and 5W30 (less than 1qt)....
Transmission: still shifts like day 1....nice and smooth....and quick....remember am with Type F all the way....i do not have D4 or DW1 in there....I love how my car shifts....
Engine: when i did my oil change at 157,300 I did notice the magnetic plug had accumulated some shavings....i am thinking of going back to interval of 5000 miles as compared to 7500 miles....still debating on it thow....a fully synthetic oil should be able to go on for longer....but lets see how things hold up !!!
I am now sitting at 159,000 miles....it has been
12,000 miles since my 1x4
11,000 miles since my 2x4
10,000 miles since my 3x4
and 9,000 miles since my 4x4
Also I did my first engine oil change with Rdline at 147,000 miles with 5w30....at 150,000 miles i did another oil change with 5W30....at 157,300 I did another oil change with Redline 5w20 (4 qts) and 5W30 (less than 1qt)....
Transmission: still shifts like day 1....nice and smooth....and quick....remember am with Type F all the way....i do not have D4 or DW1 in there....I love how my car shifts....
Engine: when i did my oil change at 157,300 I did notice the magnetic plug had accumulated some shavings....i am thinking of going back to interval of 5000 miles as compared to 7500 miles....still debating on it thow....a fully synthetic oil should be able to go on for longer....but lets see how things hold up !!!
06-13-2012, 07:52 PM
#157
Racer
Thanks for the update!
Just got my Redline ATF in the mail today I got both D4 and Type F though, gonna mix it up.
I'll be ordering some Redline 5w20 oil when it's time.
Just got my Redline ATF in the mail today
I got both D4 and Type F though, gonna mix it up.I'll be ordering some Redline 5w20 oil when it's time.
06-13-2012, 09:03 PM
#158
Wanted to check back in and post an update:
I am now sitting at 159,000 miles....it has been
12,000 miles since my 1x4
11,000 miles since my 2x4
10,000 miles since my 3x4
and 9,000 miles since my 4x4
Also I did my first engine oil change with Rdline at 147,000 miles with 5w30....at 150,000 miles i did another oil change with 5W30....at 157,300 I did another oil change with Redline 5w20 (4 qts) and 5W30 (less than 1qt)....
Transmission: still shifts like day 1....nice and smooth....and quick....remember am with Type F all the way....i do not have D4 or DW1 in there....I love how my car shifts....
Engine: when i did my oil change at 157,300 I did notice the magnetic plug had accumulated some shavings....i am thinking of going back to interval of 5000 miles as compared to 7500 miles....still debating on it thow....a fully synthetic oil should be able to go on for longer....but lets see how things hold up !!!
I am now sitting at 159,000 miles....it has been
12,000 miles since my 1x4
11,000 miles since my 2x4
10,000 miles since my 3x4
and 9,000 miles since my 4x4
Also I did my first engine oil change with Rdline at 147,000 miles with 5w30....at 150,000 miles i did another oil change with 5W30....at 157,300 I did another oil change with Redline 5w20 (4 qts) and 5W30 (less than 1qt)....
Transmission: still shifts like day 1....nice and smooth....and quick....remember am with Type F all the way....i do not have D4 or DW1 in there....I love how my car shifts....
Engine: when i did my oil change at 157,300 I did notice the magnetic plug had accumulated some shavings....i am thinking of going back to interval of 5000 miles as compared to 7500 miles....still debating on it thow....a fully synthetic oil should be able to go on for longer....but lets see how things hold up !!!
How should i do it and in what increments? Also how do i do it. Never dealt with tranny stuff, just oil. Car itself still runs strong and the manual shifting is very responsive. Sorry for long post lol, just my father says not to do anything to the tranny myself just pay Acura to do it but i think it might be worse for the tranny as they will use the machine i think
06-13-2012, 10:36 PM
#159
takin care of Business in
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let me know if you need some help David....
Hey just bought my 05 TL automatic trans as well. Has161k miles and is due for some tranny service from acura. I assume this is a tranny drain/flush. She doesnt shift perfect like before, used to be my dads car and i remember driving it before. Anyways, would it be in my best interest to do the tranny stuff myself with this redline tranny fluid seeing as my tranny has a lot of miles?
How should i do it and in what increments? Also how do i do it. Never dealt with tranny stuff, just oil. Car itself still runs strong and the manual shifting is very responsive. Sorry for long post lol, just my father says not to do anything to the tranny myself just pay Acura to do it but i think it might be worse for the tranny as they will use the machine i think
How should i do it and in what increments? Also how do i do it. Never dealt with tranny stuff, just oil. Car itself still runs strong and the manual shifting is very responsive. Sorry for long post lol, just my father says not to do anything to the tranny myself just pay Acura to do it but i think it might be worse for the tranny as they will use the machine i think
if i were you, this is what i would do:
1>change the 3rd and 4th pressure switches
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149
2> switch engine oil to some quality oil....5w30 if you are going mobil1 or pennzoil platinum or any other off the shelf brands....or stick with 5W20 if you are going with a group 4 fully synthetic oil such as Redline, Royal Purple (i think thats a grp 4) and certain Amsoil products....i recommend Redline....
3> switch tranny fluid out to Redline...slowly....
if you read my first post i have intervals of 1000 miles as i wanted to see how a completely different fluid will react in my tranny....hence went at it slowly....keep the interval high but not tooo high....i feel 500-1000 miles is a good interval....to choose what kind of redline you wanna go with, check this thread....read couple pages as the theory changes in couple pages....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
4> change out your coolant if you have not done that yet....stick with Acura Type II....also flush your brake fluid (i used Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 fluid) but if you want a better fluid go with Motul RBF600....and your PS fluid, you can use Amsoil PSF or Acura PSF....both are equally good....here is the 3G garage where you can find links to all the DIY's...
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
5> finally change out your air filters (cabin and engine) and you will be all set !!!
here is the interval sheet which i use....the interval is mentioned in miles....
ENGINE OIL 7,500
TRANNY OIL 60,000
PS OIL 60,000
BRAKE FLUID 30,000
COOLANT 60,000
SPARK PLUGS 60,000
TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP 105,000
OIL FILTER 7,500
CABIN FILTER 30,000
AIR FILTER 30,000
TRANNY FILTER 60,000
TRANSMISSION SENSOR 60,000
WIPER when required
BRAKE PADS when required
BRAKE DISC when required
MAG BOLTS when required
150 POINT INSPECTION 105,000
ALIGNMENT 7,500
I have lifetime alignment at Firestone hence i go there every time i do my oil change....
Hope that helps and take care of her....
The following users liked this post:
ResistaNce (06-21-2012)
06-21-2012, 06:12 AM
#160
let me know if you need some help David....
a lot of people are not sure about switching the fluid out at such high mileage you know....i took a risk at 147K miles and am glad i took the risk....it paid off !!!
if i were you, this is what i would do:
1>change the 3rd and 4th pressure switches
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149
2> switch engine oil to some quality oil....5w30 if you are going mobil1 or pennzoil platinum or any other off the shelf brands....or stick with 5W20 if you are going with a group 4 fully synthetic oil such as Redline, Royal Purple (i think thats a grp 4) and certain Amsoil products....i recommend Redline....
3> switch tranny fluid out to Redline...slowly....
if you read my first post i have intervals of 1000 miles as i wanted to see how a completely different fluid will react in my tranny....hence went at it slowly....keep the interval high but not tooo high....i feel 500-1000 miles is a good interval....to choose what kind of redline you wanna go with, check this thread....read couple pages as the theory changes in couple pages....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299
4> change out your coolant if you have not done that yet....stick with Acura Type II....also flush your brake fluid (i used Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 fluid) but if you want a better fluid go with Motul RBF600....and your PS fluid, you can use Amsoil PSF or Acura PSF....both are equally good....here is the 3G garage where you can find links to all the DIY's...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553554
5> finally change out your air filters (cabin and engine) and you will be all set !!!
here is the interval sheet which i use....the interval is mentioned in miles....
ENGINE OIL 7,500
TRANNY OIL 60,000
PS OIL 60,000
BRAKE FLUID 30,000
COOLANT 60,000
SPARK PLUGS 60,000
TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP 105,000
OIL FILTER 7,500
CABIN FILTER 30,000
AIR FILTER 30,000
TRANNY FILTER 60,000
TRANSMISSION SENSOR 60,000
WIPER when required
BRAKE PADS when required
BRAKE DISC when required
MAG BOLTS when required
150 POINT INSPECTION 105,000
ALIGNMENT 7,500
I have lifetime alignment at Firestone hence i go there every time i do my oil change....
Hope that helps and take care of her....
The following users liked this post:
swoosh (06-21-2012)