Stick to the Racing fluid but be sure to swap out the switches.

 

sweet...the protection this oil provides is awesome....am thinking i should have gone with 5w-20 instead of 5w-30

so i got ripped off ....will order from here next time around....

sure thing Nathan...you got my number....text me and we can do this...i will be doing another 1x3 on my car in the next 700 miles

go with racing....if you feel uncomfy then you should do a 2x3 with racing and 1x3 with lightweight racing.....but i went with racing all the way....

 

I replaced the D4 with racing yesterday. I feel much better now.

 

 

is there a cheaper source for the third and fourth pressure switches than the stealership? Also been trying to find the parts online at the oem acura places..anybody got a link so i can compare prices?

 

check the BM...i got both of my switches and 3 qts of z1 (more than a year back) for 80 bucks shipped (i think )

 

Switches aren't that expensive.

 

Especially when you compare them to a new tranny.

 

So I did my 3rd drain and refill and all I can say is WOW....I wanted to drive 200-300 miles before I posted and hence got delayed....

147,2xx: Tranny Drain and refill...engine oil change....
148,1xx: Tranny Drain and refill....
149,3xx: Tranny Drain and refill....

Now I sit at 149,569 miles....so i put on 250 some miles since the 3x3....and damn it feels like am driving a dual clutch transmission.....the shifts are super quick and not harsh at all (the first cold shift hurts ) ....to test it out i was cruising at 50mph...dropped it down to 2nd and WOW the shift were awesome....revved it up and shifted back it....before I knew it, I was doing 110....the engine sounds better with the larger CAI filter....and feels very smooth at 5-6K rpms....

I am in love with redline so far.....

I am planning on changing the engine oil every 7500 miles....I have done 2500 miles and the engine oil life % is at 70....so, I think the next oil change will last an easy 7500 miles.....

 

Related Reading ......

Oversized CAI Filter (click here)

 

very good info

 

I would really like to than Inaccurate for helping me pull the trigger on this....

I was really scared of how new tranny oil would react in my transmission which is 150K miles old....he was helpful in answering all my questions....

thats why i thought of starting this thread so that people can ask questions here....

 

Thank you

 

Doing mine today got 12 qt shipped for $84!!!!!!! (WOW thats a low price lol) Perks of being a parts manager with connections!

 

Dude will give you $100 if you can get me the same deal....you can hold on to the $16

 

same here

 

when i did the second drain and refill i took my stock rims off and put on my 18" enkeis....

recently the enkeis had a flat (2 rims had brand new falkens and 2 had 75-80% used falkens)....due to improper installation one of my new falkens was flat...i took those rims out and put my stock rims on (with fuzion tires) and damn the car feels faster....i think the weight difference would be only 10 odd pounds between the stock SET and the Enkei Set but damn the car feels so much quicker....

am in love with this redline stuff....can wait for another 300 miles so that i can do the final drain and refill and engine oil change....

 

Shouldn't this be placed in the TL Diet thread

 

Just a small tid bit - Redline got dinged for essentially promising more than what their motor oil could deliver. Hence, the reason why some NAPA stores no longer carry Redline products.

 

Sources please......

I, myself, would never post something like this without citing multiple creditable sources.

I did a quick Google on the term "Napa Redline Red Line oil" and I failed to find anything similar to your post

 

Do you think its worth putting Redline ATF in a 2005 Pilot, only used for going to and from work? I'm planning to do a drain & fill with Honda's DW-1. But want advices if its worth spending a extra $ for Redline.

 

LOL yup....i was thinking i dont mind running 17" rims....wanna invest in something which is very light....loosing 4-5 pounds per rim would mean loosing 20 odd pounds overall....

exactly what inaccurate said....can you please list some citing ? also I am more impressed with redline racing atf than the motor oil....

very direct....i like....

i had one more question for you....since am at 150K i put in 5w30 for more engine protection....is it ok if i run 5w20 ? I am in kansas....summers go upto 90's and winters down to -10ish....5w-30 seems to be very thick

i would personally go with redline....i drive my car to and from work as well...i dont race my car....but redline offers some very nice protection and tranny wear....i would say to you question,...

 

Thank You

 

your welcome

 

Do you know how much drain & fill we need to be done to completely remove Honda's Z1?

 

i think by doing a 3x3 (drain and refill of 3qts, 3 times) you will get 98% of the old fluid out....since the ATF is available in 12 qts am doing 3x4 (drain and refill of 3qts, 4 times)...so as to get the full Z1 out....again i dont believe in dumping the new oil out after 5 minutes of driving and hence an doing a drain and refill every 1000 miles....so if my car doesnt react well, I can switch back....below are the drain and refill percentages:

Drain and fill percentage:
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
10=99+%

 

They will never turn up lol. With so many snake oil products that never get pulled, one of the rare ones that deliver the goods are not going to get pulled.

Redline doesn't have an SM or higher API rating because it has more than the allowed ZDDP anti-wear additive for SM or higher. Maybe some uneducated people took that as it was inferior since it had no "approval". The high HTHS keeps it way out of the AFE category as well but the large dose of moly tends to make up the difference.

Regardless, I've torn down enough engines on Redline and other oils to know it's even better than it's advertising would lead you to believe.

I had one engine with about 40,000 miles on it, running alky/water injection (not mine) and on Redline for it's whole life that I tore down after it ate a timing chain. The piston tops were absolutely perfect from the water injection and I witnessed for the first time, absolutely no carbon in the ring land area which is incredible for any engine but amazing for a high boost turbo engine. This area is a direct result of the oil quality and the fact that it's an ester. I could have sold the pistons as new. Some of the engines that I've witnessed the teardown on, engines that they wouldn't let me touch, come out with no measurable wear after making over 300hp per cylinder and 11,000rpm amazed everyone in the room.

I would love to see any claims against this oil. I'm being serious, not trying to call anyone out, I'm genuinely interested.

 

ok fellows....the last drain and refill is done....now the tranny has done through 4 of the drain and refills and has 99.99999% of redline racing type f atf....also did an engine oil change....

car is sitting at 151,280 miles ....recently did a 600 mile trip and the car felt so smooth....also dumped the falkens zeix 912 and got the firestone wide oval indy 500....what a fucking awesome tire....

she feels good and purrrs on those high rpms....

the only downside an seeing is NO lowww end power....this started after i switched to the oversized CAI....again the only reason this is happening is coz i have Precat deletes and a stock exhaust....so am pumping too much air in and the engine is not able to push the air out as effectively....i think this will end in 2 weeks when i get my custom exhaust (its almost ready )

well...again....

thanks to Inaccurate and I hate Cars for convincing me by telling me the facts about Redline....I would recommend this to anyone.....

 

This is a very good thread. Can someone describe for me a little more on the difference in shift feel on Honda vs Redline fluid? I am having a hard time deciphering if the shifts are snappy or smooth. If you like silly visuals, will my bobble-head hula girl be dancing or steady during normal cruising?

 

Search for the "racing atf" thread. Tons of details in there.

 

Looks like I'll have to jump on this bandwagon sometime.. I pulled the trigger part way a while back in that I purchased the Type F, but this was right after my first slippage of the tranny. I decided against changing out the fluid until after my tranny was replaced. Now that the swap is done, time to prevent damage by going to Type F.

 

during normal cruising the bobble head huka girl would be steady as a stick....the first few shifts in the morning or the cold shifts, the chic will be dancing her ass off, or should i say head off....

the shifts between the 2 (honda vs redline) are almost the same....but the shifts using the redline are quicker....you can almost feel the gear latching in quicker....

true that brother....i would say do it....again i like to see how my car reacts to some new stuff in there....and hence I didnt do a 3x3 right over one afternoon....i did a 4x3 over 3K miles....gave the tranny something and sometime to adjust to it....i would suggest going the same route...

 

I also have redline in my system. I feel the ATF more than the oil, I believe . Special thanks to Inaccurate and IHC

 

This is a second thread thanking IHC and Inaccurate. But, just can't thank you guys enough with the pressure sensors and D4 write-ups. I love the fact that I know more about my car now than the average techs at Acura.

Regarding the oil - I think the Redline ATF D4 is amazing but the regular engine oil is good however not great. I am sticking with my Mobil 1 5w-30 and S2000 Filter.

 

dude why are you running D4 ? why not Racing type F in your tranny...

again any reasons why you think redline engine oil is not great ?

 

The racing fluid would work better...

Mobil One engine oil is not in the same league as Redline. It doesn't compete on any level whether it's HTHS, ZDDP, NOACK, moly, cleaning ability, HTHS retention, polarity, much better base oil, higher temperature handling, and deposit control.

Let's not mention that Redline is a true synthetic grp V ester oil. Mobil One is not a true synthetic, it's a grp III highly refined dino oil that they market as "fully synthetic". It's a good oil but won't hold a candle to Redline.

I hope the Acura techs did not tell you this but it wouldn't surprise me.

 

^^^ IHC can you throw some light on the Penn Plat Ultra....I have been hearing a lot about that oil....

 

Agreed that the Racing is probably better. But, I want to do a fill more drain and fill with D4 to get it to a higher concentration of D4 before going to the Racing ATF (Z1 + D4 + Racing ATF = nah). Will do that in a few mos. Probably start out with just 2 quarts of Racing ATF.

Redline OIL is good not great = relative to the improvement that one would see. Z1 to D4 = HUGE Difference. Mobile 1 to Redline = can't really tell. I am sure it's doing a better job than Mobile1, but just not that noticeable.

 

I am going to order the Redline Racing soon. Cannot wait to get it in my 40k TL, preventive maintenance really

 

you wont tell if the engine oil is any better unless you rip the engine apart an look at the internals like IHC mentioned

MY NEXT STATEMENT IS NOT TO ARGUE BUT TO GET EDUCATED

wont having tranny fluid with no friction modifiers be bad for the tranny in terms of wear after a long period of time? I did a 1X3 of D4 ATF and i wanna learn more before making my next move...iv got time because my car is being repainted