MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Heeltoe-B...-pr-40007.html

Now you can get Racingbrake ET300 or ET500 pads to compliment Racingbrake rotors on your Brembo equipped TL!

Marcus



PERFORMANCE STREET: ET300 - Delivers the braking performance beyond the street driving yet very low dust and no squeaking.

AGGRESSIVE STREET: ET500, ET700, ET800 - These compounds are offered for the adventurous drivers who:
- Do not like loud squeaking
- Do not like a lot of dust
- Do like extended rotor life

Being these pads are streetable therefore they are not intended for intensive and continuous hard braking over the temperature and speed limit (see chart below) on the race track, otherwise excessive wear may occur.


ET Series Characteristics:

* Excellent Modulation
* Consistent friction and torque output
* Run from ambient temperature (even in cold winter morning) - ET300, ET500 &

Recommended Application:

Setup # Application Compound Recommended For Speed (MPH) Top Temp.* Min. Temp.
S1 Street Performance ET300 Street - Not Rated Ambient
S2 Autocrossing / Spirited Driving ET500 Aggressive Street 80 1000°F (538°C) Ambient


* For intermittent service only and it requires cool off between braking. The top temperature indicated is not for continuous hard braking.

WRXtranceformed

Sick, I might give these a try when my stockers wear thin!

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

ET 500's are the shit. I'm running them with my Racingbrake 2 piece rotors.
- No noise
- Dusting seems acceptable

Great braking performance so far, I have no complaints at all.

Bearcat94

x2

Got 'em on the 2G TL-S with RB slotted 1-peice fronts.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

but Marcus can I ask you

quite a few members have had problems make the rotors fit with the mounting screw

granted, that screw is purely optional, and you can run rotors without it.. and even if you use it, chances are when rotor service comes along, you'll need to torch and pry the hell out of the screw.. but i kind of like the idea, knowing the screw is in place... especially since I change my wheels constantly (always taking my 20" wheels off for long drives, or areas with really bad roads)

Is there a way you voice this to Racingbrake, or find out why the screw isnt fitting?

If im not mistaken, Kennedy, didnt you have this problem a week or two ago?

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Quite literally the hole is drilled in the wrong place on this car. Actually the fronts usually are fine, its the rears that have the issue on the 3G (I am pretty sure). I think it has to do with cross platform compatibility on the rotor fitment, but different hub on different cars have the wandering screw hole.

If this is the case, Honda is the culprit for moving the hole around. I have no idea if this is right but it is my best guess. I will drop a line to RB to get some more input.

Marcus

Bearcat94

I kind of know how you feel. When I changed out the 2G to RB, I even went to the dealer and bought all new screws. I *knew* they were essentially non functional, but still wanted 'em in place.

Then, on the driver side front, I stripped the heads trying to remove them. Had to drill 'em out/bust the heads off. So, despite best intentions, I still end up with out all of the retaining screws.

I've learned to live with the dissapointment (and with out the screws).

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

The 2 piece fronts are fine... Everything lines up great. Using the impact driver listed int he other RB thread), I removed the screws with ease. Although I initially reused the screws, after disucssing the rear rotor issue with Marcus, I went back and removed them from the front as well.

For the rear rotors, the hole is about 3mm offset. Not a big deal at all. I believe this is because these rotors also fit the RL, which is a crossover part, which likely has the hub hole offset 3mm the other direction. I dunno...

The calipers, pads and lugs hold the rotor in place when the wheel is removed. You can't even kick it loose. There is really no need at all for the screws.

Steve Wood (of RB) said they were considering completely removing the screw holes to prevent this in the future.

Don't let this minor issue sway you from running a superior product.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

sweet.. .i may go for them

but... holy mother of god... $580 for front rotors? they must be that good, huh?

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Precision machined 2 piece aluminum hat rotors... Yeah.

Funny you balk at that price but don't flinch at a $2400 BBK. How much of that cost is calipers? 1/2...

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Kennedy....don't forget, the hats are FORGED. Not just billet.

Marcus

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

lol. yea i guess its just seeing that kind of cost for rotors alone,... wasnt expecting that...

actually, the BBK i had before (Rotora) was only like $1300 or so.... but that was 13" 1pc rotors.. the 14" 2pc rotor kit was like $1700.. so i guess the price is right

Also, i saw a Wilwood 4pot BBK GB on ... it was only $600... BUT... +550 if you wanted to upgrade to 2pc rotors...

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

There ya go...

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Also, isnt 2pc rotors cheaper when needing to replace them? as you re-use the "hats" and only change the disc portion....

Kennedy.. can you compare the dust level to your OEM brembo pads? big difference? these brembos are killing me... every like month or two, i need to pull the front wheels off, and clean the inner barrel and the calipers, because it gets soooooo dirty.

thanks man

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Not enough miles yet...

Give me a few weeks