Question on engine mounts

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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 01:51 PM
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Question on engine mounts

Hey Gang,

In the next few weeks I'm going to swap out the clutch and axles on my TL; I'm pondering the various mounts as well. Given the tranny needs to come out for the clutch job, clearly the transmission mounts will be easy to swap out; the question I have for those of y'all who've done the engine mounts is, with the tranny out, are the engine mounts easier to R&R as well?

Thanks for the advice.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 02:09 PM
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With the subframe dropped to take out the transmission, it'll be a piece of cake.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 02:11 PM
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Okay, add six mounts to the list of parts.

I know OEM is the way to go for most parts for these cars; does anybody know who made the OEM mounts? Or should I just pony up and buy direct from Acura?
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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pony up and buy from OEM, I ordered all 5 mounts for my TL and just awaiting to replace all of them at once. If you will be dropping the sub frame I would recommend that you replace the front sway bar busing and end links as well.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by truonghthe
pony up and buy from OEM, I ordered all 5 mounts for my TL and just awaiting to replace all of them at once. If you will be dropping the sub frame I would recommend that you replace the front sway bar busing and end links as well.
Good thinking. I'm not hearing any typical swaybar noises, but you have a great point.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 06:46 PM
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Yeah a lot easier. I would change them at the same time. It will make your engine feel smoother and no cabin vibrations with the new mounts.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by acuraTLXguy
Yeah a lot easier. I would change them at the same time. It will make your engine feel smoother and no cabin vibrations with the new mounts.
Right now the only vibrations I have are due to the old axles. That said, given the pending clutch job, I might as well hit the mounts while I'm in there.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 07:09 PM
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trust me if you drop the sub frame and replace all component mentioned above your ride will drive good as new car. I will be replacing all the end link and sway bar bushing while the motor mounts and trans mounts being replaced.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
That said, given the pending clutch job, I might as well hit the mounts while I'm in there.
Consider the rear main seal, as well?
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 08:29 PM
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Thanks, already on the list; also on the list are new tires and rear wheel/bearing assemblies.
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 10:33 PM
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Do TL's have replaceable release bearing guide sleeves?

Got yourself some Honda high temp urea grease?
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 04:54 AM
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Gonna be a noticeable upgrade once it's all done.
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by zeta
Consider the rear main seal, as well?
Question regarding the rear main seal, I see:
  • Part # 91214-RCA-A01 "Oil Seal (80X98X8)(Nok)" -- $15.74
  • Part # 11300-RCA-A00 "Case Assembly, Oil Seal" -- $40.06
I'm trying to figure out why someone would buy the full case assembly. Thoughts?
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 09:31 AM
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Less chances of fucking up the seal on install. For the extra 25 bucks, you get piece of mind that it's done correctly.
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by teh CL
Less chances of fucking up the seal on install. For the extra 25 bucks, you get piece of mind that it's done correctly.
Maybe it's just me, but it looks like it is actually more work to replace the case than just the seal.
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 10:18 AM
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The case has to come off either way to replace the seal.
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by teh CL
The case has to come off either way to replace the seal.
Ahhh, got it; didn't know that.
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 11:17 AM
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Going OEM is certainly safe but I tried out some Anchor mounts for the front and passenger side mount and have been pretty happy with them. Much less expensive. The OEM went bad after about 120K causing some creaking noise when accelerating from a stop. I'm at 140K now and they're still working great. Feels much more solid and no creaking anchor-online.com : welcome to anchor industries
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Old Feb 28, 2018 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by teh CL
Less chances of fucking up the seal on install. For the extra 25 bucks, you get piece of mind that it's done correctly.
Originally Posted by teh CL
The case has to come off either way to replace the seal.
^
This.

In addition, the mechanic/shop owner that did my CL-S6 clutch replacement, back in Dec2015, stated that he put a 'bead of black RTV' around the seal inside of the cover for good measure. I did not get to see it, so I'm not sure how it looked at the time. He stated that he did that on all the NSX's that came in for the repair.

Last edited by zeta; Feb 28, 2018 at 11:32 AM.
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