When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have just pretty much closed (deposit sent) on a 08 Type S 6MT NBP. I'm in Springield, MO. The car is in Plano, Texas. I'm having it shipped to me ($536 wasn't bad at all imo). Question is, how do the seller and I go about a bill of sale? No lien on said vehicle. This will be a cash or check transaction so no loans or financing will be needed. Probably a silly question so my apologies. This is my first "over the net vehicle" purchase, and the first for the seller as well.
Have the seller complete a (your) bill of sale with both party signatures, one copy for you and the seller. You can print out and sign it then email it to him under PDF, some state will require bill of sale. I know in fact that MO has strict law compare to TX, I bought one of my TL from OKC Grain Valley lol.
There are PDF programs that let you sign it electronically, which is also legally bound.
without a bill of sale; it sounds like a good way to lose a whole bunch of money
Used Vehicle Purchased Out-of-State – A buyer must receive either a properly assigned title from the seller or a reassigned title from the dealer. If the state does not require a title, you must obtain a bill of sale. The bill of sale must include the buyer’s and seller’s names, addresses, signatures; and the purchase date, purchase price, year, make, and vehicle identification number of the vehicle being sold. A proper odometer disclosure is required on vehicles less than 10 years old. If the title assigned to the buyer is an out-of-state title, the buyer must obtain an identification number and odometer inspection completed by an authorized Missouri inspection station.
Well the car is a 2008, so I'm good there. And the way that reads to me is a proper title is all...
I have just pretty much closed (deposit sent) on a 08 Type S 6MT NBP. I'm in Springield, MO. The car is in Plano, Texas. I'm having it shipped to me ($536 wasn't bad at all imo). Question is, how do the seller and I go about a bill of sale? No lien on said vehicle. This will be a cash or check transaction so no loans or financing will be needed. Probably a silly question so my apologies. This is my first "over the net vehicle" purchase, and the first for the seller as well.
Any help...helps.
OP, how did you arrange the transport? Uship?
I've considered buying out-of-state cars, but shipping has always been something that kept me from making purchases. The other has been the inability to check them out.
I've considered buying out-of-state cars, but shipping has always been something that kept me from making purchases. The other has been the inability to check them out.
or you can fly out and check the car in person, if everything goes according to plan perform the transaction and have the car ship home..
or you can fly out and check the car in person, if everything goes according to plan perform the transaction and have the car ship home..
^THIS
When I purchased my 2006 back in 2017 I went on a nation wide hunt for my car and finally found two candidates after five full months of searching. The two finalists were in Connecticut and California; I really wanted the California car as it only 20,300 miles on it and was planning on flying out to the Bay area and driving back here to New Hampshire, however, it got sold before I could make the arrangements. The second car was only about 130 miles away so I drove down the day after I saw it, drove it, paid for it via a check, and left it for the following weekend (thus to allow the checks time to clear); my wife drove me back down the following weekend and home I went in my "new" 2006 TL 6MT with "only" 114,000 miles on the clock.
So you have never "seen" the vehicle in person? Did you at least get a PPI or Facetime walkaround of the car with the seller? Maybe if miles are really low its not an issue but I'd be very concerned with buying sight unseen but if your comfortable thats all that matters.
I have had a number of cars shipped over the last several years and your shipping quote is very decent price. Congrats and welcome.
I've considered buying out-of-state cars, but shipping has always been something that kept me from making purchases. The other has been the inability to check them out.
I've used uShip to ship from NJ to CA with little issue but it was a private purchase through a friend
Yes the TL is site unseen besides pictures on the selling site. 2008 Type S NBP 6 MT. 118,060 miles.
I have also talked with the gentleman selling it on the phone. Have seen his facebook and a few other online things about him, linkedin etc. He's legit. Super cool guy. Has told me no rush on getting a shipper. The car is mine...etc I mentioned possibly sending a friend out via flight (I would go but have some work restraints) and he was ok with that as well. I already knew his address so I was kinda curious where (if I had someone fly out) his address was if he would give me the same address....he did. Married guy, wife and kid...after our phone call it helped ease my mind.
I'm not going with roadrunner as previously mentioned. I'm going uship, let the carriers fight it out. But my goodness I've gotten quotes from $295 ton $788, anyone used someone (carrier) they recommend? This is from Plano Texas to Springfield Missouri, open carrier, roughly 400 miles.
Well it's official. In addition to my 2007 NBP automatic my new 2008 NBP 6 speed will be getting picked up tomorrow at 10am tomorrow from Texas and delivered here in Springfield, Missouri. The 07 will be the daily, the 08 maybe once every 2 weeks. Has 118,500 on it. Found a shipper on uship who has delivered 34 vehicles in 2020 and has 34 positive reviews. For a decent price as well, the price he gave me makes me think...
1. He has a load going back or a pickup in the remote area. He can only do 1 vehicle at a time, so something being loaded and moved in my general area makes the most sense I guess.
2. Retired guy and his wife so maybe they wanna visit Branson or our huge Bass Pro Shop.
Let's just say the price he gave me surely half will probably go towards gas (Ford dually + trailer)
Silly question to any previous-current Type S 6 speed owners...how often do you use 6th gear. We were chatting about this at our beer spot this afternoon...Most of my friend figured rarely but they aren't to familiar with these cars...
There she is. Guy even washed it and filled the tank, simply a joy to work this deal with...
My use of 6th gear varies; if I'm rolling along on a relatively level road, then 50-55 is about as low as I go. Above that, 6th gear is used 99% of the time. In my case, I live in a semi-rural area, so 6th gear is used virtually every time I drive.
People doubting about 6th gear usability because the gear ratio is so low this is true on domestic car. The TL its a different story, anything after 2500 rpm and the car move even in 6th.
I always found my self trying to shift into next gear from 6th because in AT 75 mph rev at 2250 rpm but in the MT 75 mph rev at 2750 rpm. It does not help when I have two Type Slow and 3 Base lol.
Last edited by truonghthe; Oct 22, 2020 at 07:47 AM.
According to the manual you're recommended to shift into 6th at 44 MPH. I normally do it around 55 MPH or so. Maybe a little higher if I am accelerating onto the highway.
According to the manual you're recommended to shift into 6th at 44 MPH. I normally do it around 55 MPH or so. Maybe a little higher if I am accelerating onto the highway.
Yikes, 6th gear at 44 MPH, waaaaay to slow for 6th gear! Said another way, unless you're rolling down hill or coasting to a stop, you will definitely be lugging the engine, and that isn't healthy for the engine in any way, shape, or form.
Yikes, 6th gear at 44 MPH, waaaaay to slow for 6th gear! Said another way, unless you're rolling down hill or coasting to a stop, you will definitely be lugging the engine, and that isn't healthy for the engine in any way, shape, or form.
What's really stupid is it recommends shifting into 5th at 41 MPH and then 6th at 44 MPH. I normally do 5th around 40-45 but wait a bit for 6th. I try to keep the RPMs above 1500.
OP if the original owner didn't do it you're going to want to do the clutch delay valve delate as soon as you get the car. That's definitely worth it and makes the experience totally different.
on the 3.2 I definitely wont want to get caught under 1500 rpm, but in the 3.5 the motor has more torque down low and it will pull just fine. On the same stretch of road when I am going 45-50 mph on the Type Slow I leave it in 6th, when I am in the Base I leave it in 5th.
congrats looks amazing!!
agree with everyone else about 6th gear, i've never heard of people not using it haha
also check out gm friction modified mtf, hybrid racing shift bushings, and the slave check valve delete. if you want an even better feel, go for the short shift and a heavy shift knob too (i recommend raceseng to everyone, they have 20% off for black friday)
also, be careful of @truonghthe he will try to buy your car lol
congrats looks amazing!!
agree with everyone else about 6th gear, i've never heard of people not using it haha
also check out gm friction modified mtf, hybrid racing shift bushings, and the slave check valve delete. if you want an even better feel, go for the short shift and a heavy shift knob too (i recommend raceseng to everyone, they have 20% off for black friday)
also, be careful of @truonghthe he will try to buy your car lol
Dam take it easy Dave, OP just got the car and you already give him a mod list.
Well Raceseng is all nice but after what happened to mine, I think I gonna keep it OEM. The only TL-S I would want to buy is from a forum member that fully mods with WDP and has base front lip.
What's really stupid is it recommends shifting into 5th at 41 MPH and then 6th at 44 MPH. I normally do 5th around 40-45 but wait a bit for 6th. I try to keep the RPMs above 1500.
OP if the original owner didn't do it you're going to want to do the clutch delay valve delate as soon as you get the car. That's definitely worth it and makes the experience totally different.
Is this an expensive procedure? I'll be the first to admit my garage skills aren't that great...but I've somewhat heard of this thing being done. Truth be told this new 08 6mt won't be out much as I'm keeping the 07 as a daily.
P.S. It's an hour away from delivery...stoked!
Is this an expensive procedure? I'll be the first to admit my garage skills aren't that great...but I've somewhat heard of this thing being done. Truth be told this new 08 6mt won't be out much as I'm keeping the 07 as a daily.
P.S. It's an hour away from delivery...stoked!
Make sure you post pics when it gets here!
It's not very expensive. You can either get a new slave cylinder or modify the one you have. If you modify the one you have the only cost is replacing the clutch fluid. I choose to replace mine and I think it was around $100 or so for an OEM one.
Quick question, the clutch doesn't seem to engage until high up on the pedal...normal or time to replace. Sorry it's been while since driving a manual and my first manual Type S
Quick question, the clutch doesn't seem to engage until high up on the pedal...normal or time to replace. Sorry it's been while since driving a manual and my first manual Type S
My pedal on the KBP engagement is about 1/4 or a little less from the floor, the car had brand new clutch as of last Xmas.
Yea after a few days, the clutch pedal is more like you say. I don't want to assign anyone homework, but if someone is bored can you explain the whole clutch delay valve delete procedure?
Benefits?
Cons?
I'd strongly prefer to replace then modify, and use OEM in a replacement. I mean $100 or so for a new OEM part is a no brainer for me vs a modify. Question is...labor $? I'm VERY interested about this procedure, just not all that sure what it all entails...
Sorry to be a hassle friends...
Last edited by jeffstlnote; Oct 28, 2020 at 04:13 PM.
there's a thread in here with lots and lots of detailed steps and descriptions, just go through that thread. it's a super short modification (maybe 10 minutes?) and then the hardest part is bleeding after putting it back in
Yea after a few days, the clutch pedal is more like you say. I don't want to assign anyone homework, but if someone is bored can you explain the whole clutch delay valve delete procedure?
Benefits?
Cons?
I'd strongly prefer to replace then modify, and use OEM in a replacement. I mean $100 or so for a new OEM part is a no brainer for me vs a modify. Question is...labor $? I'm VERY interested about this procedure, just not all that sure what it all entails...
Sorry to be a hassle friends...
This is for an Accord, but my delay valve looked exactly the same.
I really don't know what the con is to deleting this. I can tell you after deleting it I can get out of first gear so much faster now. It also makes the 1-2 and 2-3 shift faster.
Some overdue pics of the new 2008 6MT. Looks as like the previous owner (I'm the 2nd) blacked out the grill (last pic) and I am hearing a "clunk" every once and awhile from the front passenger wheel. Having it looked at Monday... 08 6mt left, 07 auto right... Front grill has numerous chips, could stand be be painted... Was this painted?
I have the same one.
