Protecting paint on hood?

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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Protecting paint on hood?

Hello everyone, I'm a new member to the TL community. Just picked up a 2005 from a friend of mine. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions to protect the front bumper/grill/hood from highway debris. I was looking into an Invisible Bra protector, but never applied one myself. Any suggestions or feedback?
Thanks
EL
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #2  
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Buy from the place on Ebay Extreme City Tint
They are THE people- 3M material - call direct and ask for the deluxe kit with the 8mm not the 6 mil if you can get it
hood, bumper, lower area, front of fenders, mirrors and get 4 feet of material extra for the front of the rear wheels- protets from flung rocks off the front

All it takes it a little time, hairdryer, exacto knife, a friend, and they sell a $10 training video.
You could end up with a side biz!
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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I wouldn't do it myself...I'm getting a professional to install it, it's highly recommended
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions!
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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I did it myself on my audi and it was the most PITA mod I've ever done.

The film is sticky and hard to handle, you have to stretch it to make it fit the contour but not too much it deforms.

It took me 8 hours to do the front. So this time I had someone else did it on the Acura.

oh.. .always get the clearbra done as early as you can, since the clearbra will magnify any pre-existing chips you already have.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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on a similar subject, I wonder if someone actually has a car bra on a black TL. Wonder how it looks or if it looks concealed.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 09:18 AM
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don't do regular bras - dust get trapped down there and the wind will beat the crap out of the paint.

it also traps moisture and fungus can grow.

it will also shows "tan lines" after a while - but a bit less on a black car.

Do it right the first time and be done with it.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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Fair enough, how much was the clear bra install? If i was to professionally get it done.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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400-1000 - depends on the material/workmanship.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kennyc
400-1000 - depends on the material/workmanship.

Where did you find a shop to do it, or did you get an Acura dealer to handle?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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I'm getting mine done at my Lexus dealer this friday, $825 with 3M on hood,bumper,fenders,mirrors

...price is a bit higher than what other places quoted me but they were 1-1.5 hours away and that would of been a hassle to go back and forth to pick up the car / go take care of any issues I had with the job

....would of taken it to Acura dealer but the financial guy that handles these things at my acura dealer is a DI*K so I refused to have it done there

So I called the Lexus dealer who is 10 mins away and being that I bought 2 Lexus's from them they said they'd do it for my TL got them down to $825 from 895...I can settle with that
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Hey kenny, where did you get yours done? How did they do? I'm actually looking into this right now. found one guy for around 800. Do you know if yours is 8mm?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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I got it done here..

http://rdblockva.com/

They do all new Ferrari's and Aston's in the area... so they are not the cheapest place you can find. ($999 last time I checked.)

I also know Winner's tint in Rockville does clear bra as well. They run about $400-$500.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Quick question...what's the normal thickness film that is used for 3M..6mm or 8mm ?

and does it make whole lot of a difference in look / protecting the car with +- 2mm in thickness
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #15  
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I heard from the installer that the newer stuff is thinner but protect just as well as the thicker stuff.

I don't know much about it... All I know is so far the film held up very well - no chip/crack anywhere.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #16  
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I called my local Acura dealer (NC) and they said the cost for the bumper/hood/mirrors would be $661. They use 6mm material and said the clue adds 2mm for a total 8mm protection. Charged $170 just for the hood.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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Since it is tax season, I just have to tell my car bra story. Several years ago I was being audited by the IRS and the agent (female) was reviewing my business auto expenses when she asked about a receipt for a car bra. Obviously she was not a motorhead and asked what it was for. I responded: "It is to keep the headlights up." My wife just groaned and crawled under the desk. True story !
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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I have a question, and I really want to know this, so no flaming:

When you wash and wax your car after this application, how does it look? Is there a difference in the look from the unprotected surface and the protected surface? I'm just assuming that you only wash the clearbra area and wash and wax the rest. Anybody?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by XS2K
Since it is tax season, I just have to tell my car bra story. Several years ago I was being audited by the IRS and the agent (female) was reviewing my business auto expenses when she asked about a receipt for a car bra. Obviously she was not a motorhead and asked what it was for. I responded: "It is to keep the headlights up." My wife just groaned and crawled under the desk. True story !
Hahahahahahaha! I like that! I like that alot!
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:29 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by darksom1
I have a question, and I really want to know this, so no flaming:

When you wash and wax your car after this application, how does it look? Is there a difference in the look from the unprotected surface and the protected surface? I'm just assuming that you only wash the clearbra area and wash and wax the rest. Anybody?
I was told the bra material is made from polyurethane - same material the paint is made out of. You can apply wax on it. (after it's completely dried)

The only thing you would need to watch out for are the seams. They WILL collect wax residue and without cleaning it will look like someone put a long scratch across your car.

I use q-tips to clean the seams right after wax.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Talking

Originally Posted by darksom1
I have a question, and I really want to know this, so no flaming:

When you wash and wax your car after this application, how does it look? Is there a difference in the look from the unprotected surface and the protected surface? I'm just assuming that you only wash the clearbra area and wash and wax the rest. Anybody?

Good question. I guess you better clean and wax before you apply the film.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by elroc2@yahoo.com
Good question. I guess you better clean and wax before you apply the film.
Yeah, but I was actually referring to what kennyc's response was, after you already have it on your car. Thanks tho.

Thanks 2 u 2 kennyc!
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #23  
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no!! no waxing before the film. no wax should be between the film and the surface.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by kennyc
no!! no waxing before the film. no wax should be between the film and the surface.
Good looking out! I definitely would've done it!

Damn! Late again for work...LOL!
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:22 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Buy from the place on Ebay Extreme City Tint
They are THE people- 3M material - call direct and ask for the deluxe kit with the 8mm not the 6 mil if you can get it
hood, bumper, lower area, front of fenders, mirrors and get 4 feet of material extra for the front of the rear wheels- protets from flung rocks off the front

All it takes it a little time, hairdryer, exacto knife, a friend, and they sell a $10 training video.
You could end up with a side biz!
Purchased this when I bought my car. Watched the video and decieded not to mess with it. Anyone wanna buy the whole kit.............
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #26  
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how much are you asking shipped to Jax, FL?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by lusid
on a similar subject, I wonder if someone actually has a car bra on a black TL. Wonder how it looks or if it looks concealed.
I actually put a black 'TL' bra on my new black 2007 TL-S.
It's sporty, lemme know if you want pics.

P
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by pravin.george
I actually put a black 'TL' bra on my new black 2007 TL-S.
It's sporty, lemme know if you want pics.

P
I think he was talking about a clear bra on a black TL


Nonetheless....pravin.george Let's see it
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kennyc
no!! no waxing before the film. no wax should be between the film and the surface.
yeah, I'll probably clay it before hand. Polishing might be ok too, but i'm not sure. Regardless, they use a cleaning formula before they apply the clearbra which should strip wax, etc.

Kenny, I'm actually considering another place which custom cuts their film, they use a curved design so it's like one giant arc.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
yeah, I'll probably clay it before hand. Polishing might be ok too, but i'm not sure. Regardless, they use a cleaning formula before they apply the clearbra which should strip wax, etc.
no wax, no polish!

Just clay to remove all surface contaminents and you'll be fine
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Doesnt a polish basically strip everything? what i'm not sure is if it coats it with something afterwards...actually now that I think about it, my klasse AIO, probably does leave something behind.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:00 PM
  #32  
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both winner's and roadblock custom cut their films - all the designs are on the computer and a big plotter cut the design off a roll.

There are places that cut by hand. Those will be more expensive.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
Doesnt a polish basically strip everything? what i'm not sure is if it coats it with something afterwards...actually now that I think about it, my klasse AIO, probably does leave something behind.
Depends on the polish, cleaner polish or other

The polish will not get all the surface junk off. Only the clay will do that And it will be done without roughing the surface up
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #34  
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damnit! i KNEW i should've done the clearbra install when i first got it. the 800 dollar price scared me away but after a few years of driving, it looks like i'm going to have to either get my hood, front and rear bumper repainted. Gonna cost WAY more than 800 bucks.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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People from NYC, where did you go to get this installed. I went to the 3M site and the only place in Queens is X-Treme Vehicle Coatings Inc in Whitestone. Is there somewhere you would recommend?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lembowski
Depends on the polish, cleaner polish or other

The polish will not get all the surface junk off. Only the clay will do that And it will be done without roughing the surface up
Is claying done by hand or is it recommended you use a machine like your Porter-Cable?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by darksom1
Is claying done by hand or is it recommended you use a machine like your Porter-Cable?
can only be done by hand, man. Basically imagine rubbing play doh 'clay' over the surface of your car using a quick detailer as a lubricant. The clay captures sediment on the surface.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
can only be done by hand, man. Basically imagine rubbing play doh 'clay' over the surface of your car using a quick detailer as a lubricant. The clay captures sediment on the surface.
Oohhh! It's like that!

LOL@playdoh on a buffer!
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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The preferred method for claying is by hand although there is an adapter that can be mounted to the PC and more info can be found here. There is also a liquid clay sold by Glare. I haven't used either of these and this more a FYI than anything. One thing I cannot emphasize enough on is the use of a lubricant when claying. The insufficient use or lack of will only create problems. There is an thread titled Proper Claying Technique in the Wash & Wax Forum.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
The preferred method for claying is by hand although there is an adapter that can be mounted to the PC and more info can be found here. There is also a liquid clay sold by Glare. I haven't used either of these and this more a FYI than anything. One thing I cannot emphasize enough on is the use of a lubricant when claying. The insufficient use or lack of will only create problems. There is an thread titled Proper Claying Technique in the Wash & Wax Forum.
lol. claying with a pc. Thats a hairs mistake away from becoming sandpaper on your pc if you dont work the clay by folding it or the lubricant dries up.
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