Progress in the body Shop...pics!!

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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Talking Progress in the body Shop...pics!!

Just posting some pics of the progress in the body shop. still need a mechanic to keep care of a wheel issue and the run a diagnostic.

The n its off to state police inspection, I have a date days from today but hoping to just show up and maybe they'll slot me in since I hear the inspections a just but a few minutes.

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...712_115419.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...712_115404.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...712_115348.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...712_115343.jpg


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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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looking like a budget paint job
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Why are you repainting it? How much did they say it would cost?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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I hope they remove all of the headlights, tail lights, and what not before throwing primer on there.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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I'm confused. you're a guy but call your car cute.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Maybe gay
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Dude should get off the phone and pay attention to what he is doing. lol
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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Why are they sanding the paint in random spots like that all over the car?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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Wink

Originally Posted by Turbocoop
Why are you repainting it? How much did they say it would cost?
The body had a couple of spots here and there (spread out) that needed to be touched so he decide he was gonna paint the whole thing, which was nice.

Including the body work, it'll cost me $2300. Fair, not fair...? what do you guys think.

PS I'll throw up a before pic if I can get to it.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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That's what i was thinking too. lol
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Nexson
looking like a budget paint job
Brian called it.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MEKO
Maybe gay
Don't be silly bro, that has nothing to do with anything!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
Brian called it.
Why though? what would make less so?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:33 PM
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In that case, I hope you were deciding on a username and you mom or gf typed that in...

Multiquote! Use it!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:33 PM
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Before

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...tecar/AC04.jpg

Here!

Originally Posted by Undying Dreams
In that case, I hope you were deciding on a username and you mom or gf typed that in...

Multiquote! Use it!
I believe now you get the point!

Last edited by Steven Bell; Jul 14, 2012 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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that sure is a cute car
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jiggad369
I hope they remove all of the headlights, tail lights, and what not before throwing primer on there.
I'm sure he'll "paint tape" it up.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Not de-trimming the car right off the bat is a clear sign of poor workmanship and cutting corners. Hope they give you a good warranty on that paint work.

Even just a small repair should look like this, and it seems the OP's guys are doing a complete.

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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ohhai Jordan!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by powerflow
Not de-trimming the car right off the bat is a clear sign of poor workmanship and cutting corners. Hope they give you a good warranty on that paint work.

Even just a small repair should look like this, and it seems the OP's guys are doing a complete.

This the first time going about something like this. I'll be sure to ask about the warranty on the paint job and put a close eye on the job when it's completed.

I'll put some pictures up. should be completed by tomorrow.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Yep, any good shop would take off the windows, lights, and any other items before they do work on the car in those areas. And that shop looked like crap. Sanding the car with other cars around it with the windows open? Seriously? LOL
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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If it's an "all over" paint job, all the lights...every damn one of them...should be removed along with all emblems, the fuel door and the door handles.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pimpin-tl
Yep, any good shop would take off the windows, lights, and any other items before they do work on the car in those areas. And that shop looked like crap. Sanding the car with other cars around it with the windows open? Seriously? LOL
+1.

the car should have been broken down before work even begins. i'd be a bit weary. and for only $2300?! a bumper repaint costs $400 alone in my area.

paint work is all in the prep. so far...i'd be worried.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
I'm confused. you're a guy but call your car cute.
So he is a guy just with a cute car???
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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It sure looks like a budget job. I paid 6k for mine which included an entire tear down, sand the entire car down, wet sand, and buff. Remember prep work is the most important part about any respray.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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I might not be able to sleep tonight then. Thanks guys!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
I'm confused. you're a guy but call your car cute.
Are you on the prowl again? The last time you got crabs. haha

Just make sure and look at it from an angle and stand back and move left to right and back again and verify there are no ripples.. If it looks rippley or wavey, then call it out! Tell them its no good. You dont want a wavey panel anywhere. Focus intensely on a specific area and pan around the car. No wavey ripples.


Originally Posted by A cute car
This the first time going about something like this. I'll be sure to ask about the warranty on the paint job and put a close eye on the job when it's completed.

I'll put some pictures up. should be completed by tomorrow.

Last edited by Steven Bell; Jul 14, 2012 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jiggad369
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by lilsid112
It sure looks like a budget job. I paid 6k for mine which included an entire tear down, sand the entire car down, wet sand, and buff. Remember prep work is the most important part about any respray.

Something about a person talking on a cell phone while the electric sander is buzzing on my car. How can a person concentrate on sanding with a girl blabbing in your ear? He does not devote 100% attention to his job. I guess the good thing is he is at least LOOKING at the hood while sanding. =)

Anyway, the left rear tire is low.

Last edited by Chad05TL; Jul 14, 2012 at 08:20 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
Something about a person talking on a cell phone while the electric sander is buzzing on my car. How can a person concentrate on sanding with a girl blabbing in your ear? He does not devote 100% attention to his job. I guess the good thing is he is at least LOOKING at the hood while sanding. =)

Anyway, the left rear tire is low.
Well, I just plan to look it over extremely close and we'll determined if all the unsportsmanlike moves he was pulling actually resulted in a so so job.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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the other thing to keep in mind...when the job is finished...the job may look fine, BUT the failure will come much later (months to years down the line) if poor prep work was performed. we all have a view of the prep so far...
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TLtrigirl
the other thing to keep in mind...when the job is finished...the job may look fine, BUT the failure will come much later (months to years down the line) if poor prep work was performed. we all have a view of the prep so far...
If the paint bonds to the surface and as long as it is not too thin, he should not have a problem. And you/we don't have enough information based on the pictures alone. For example, the pictures shows sand dust on the car.. But naturally we should assume they would clean it before spray painting. You can't tell the condition of the surface, before he painted, based on the pictures provided. So I wouldn't jump to conclusions.

My expereince include performing a base coat/clear coat to a ram air hood and a rear spoiler I bought for my camaro. It was my first paint job and I never had any trouble at all for 3 years or so.. Then I sold the car. But while I had it, it stayed just as shiny as the day I painted it. If a Shop uses a quality product like Dupont, (I think that is what I used) he should not have any problems. The only time you run into trouble is if the paint layer is too thin, or the paint did not bond because of a dirty surface or poor quality products. Now, when I say "thin Paint", that is a very general term. Because there are 2 processes. Base coat/clear coat and just straight colored enamel. A colored enamel is just itself. Maybe a few layers of the same stuff. But base coat/clear coat has a flat/dull base color, then topped with a high gloss clear enamel. So, to have "thin paint", so much so it wears thin and right through, then either the enamel might only have 1 coat (too thin) or the color enamel might not be thick enough. I coated by hood like 3 times with clear coat. I think if you are really good, then you might be able to do it with just 2 coats if your Gun is set properly.. And if you are a machine programed robot like at the GM plant, you might be able to hit it with one shot but even then, they might apply 2 coats.. not totally sure.

Nevertheless, these pictures is not the 100% story. There is not only prep work, but POST work too. That is wet sanding. The pictures below is where I learned to paint with base coat / clear coat and also wet sanding. Then later, when I got my TL, I did more wetsanding. Wetsanding is done after the paint job. It removed imperfections and runs (if any) and remove slight "orange peel" : https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=860665&page=2

my work:


















Last edited by Chad05TL; Jul 14, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:31 AM
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very nice^^

my point was just bear all the possibilities in mind. sure we have no idea what happened after the pics we've seen. we just hope they did the right thing when they actually go to paint it. perhaps they sand first then break down the car to prep it for paint. who knows?

i've had a bumper job go to hell 3 yrs after the fact (a rare thing) BUT it does happen. this bumper was replaced and painted at a VERY reputable shop that works on high end vehicles, so i thought...great i shouldn't have issues. 3 yrs later...blisters...little pimples every where covering the face of the bumper. after lots of hemming and hawing with the parent company, i went to one of their other shops and they happily checked it out to find out that the solvent used during prep may have been contaminated. so they replaced and painted another new bumper without issue under their lifetime warranty. before they even started the work, i was VERY specific/particular about what my expectations were. the mgr was understanding and took care of my car like it was his own (he's anal too) while it was there, since he knew my paranoia of leaving the car.

so even at a high end shop there can be short cuts, you just hope it's not your car under the time of your ownership. budget paint job...if it turns out great and there are no issues later, then it was worth it. if the paint or the work itself just looks bad...lesson learned. the old saying, you pay for what you get.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Ya, I don't care for colored enamel. I like the base coat / clear coat process. But my grandfather had his trunk repainted once and it also screwed up after several years.. I don't know how long but it did not last as long as the rest of his factory panels. However, over time, even factory paint screws up too. And even defects can come from GM which may last only 2 years.. because I rememebr when GM very first started the base coat/clear coat process in the 80's. And the clear coat was peeling on IROC's and Beretta's and maybe even corvettes and others. But other than that, normally factory paint is applied in ideal environments. So, trying to get an aftermarket paint job to last as long as factory will be hard to do even if you "do it yourself" with Dupont. And you know what they say, if you want a job done right, you gotta do it yourself.. And I think that is true but still who bakes on paint? Who has factory programmed robots that move perfectly and have their guns adjusted perfectly? So yes, I agree, you get what you pay for, especially regarding wet sanding, because thats really laborous work, but on the other hand, even if someone does it right, it most likely won't last as long as factory because of the ehating, baking, application process, sterile environment and perfect programming of robotics, so, again, your can't just say "it's a bad paint job" if it doesn't last as long as what you think it should because nothing will last as long as factory.. Longevity of an aftermaket paint job is relative to cost. So based on cost, I would determine how long I think it should last and then return if it does not last that long.

Last edited by Chad05TL; Jul 14, 2012 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
Ya, I don't care for colored enamel. I like the base coat / clear coat process. But my grandfather had his trunk repainted once and it also screwed up after several years.. I don't know how long but it did not last as long as the rest of his factory panels. However, over time, even factory paint screws up too. And even defects can come from GM which may last only 2 years.. because I rememebr when GM very first started the base coat/clear coat process in the 80's. And the clear coat was peeling on IROC's and Beretta's and maybe even corvettes and others. But other than that, normally factory paint is applied in ideal environments. So, trying to get an aftermarket paint job to last as long as factory will be hard to do even if you "do it yourself" with Dupont. And you know what they say, if you want a job done right, you gotta do it yourself.. And I think that is true but still who bakes on paint? Who has factory programmed robots that move perfectly and have their guns adjusted perfectly? So yes, I agree, you get what you pay for, especially regarding wet sanding, because thats really laborous work, but on the other hand, even if someone does it right, it most likely won't last as long as factory because of the ehating, baking, application process, sterile environment and perfect programming of robotics, so, again, your can't just say "it's a bad paint job" if it doesn't last as long as what you think it should because nothing will last as long as factory.. Longevity of an aftermaket paint job is relative to cost. So based on cost, I would determine how long I think it should last and then return if it does not last that long.
Deep!!

The work is done. so I'll try and get some pictures up soon as i get to the car.
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