Thanks to a 'connection' at a Honda dealer, I was able to borrow a shop manual for the electrical system on my TL(Accord).

I've found the quick & easy method for enabling both power outlets to be always powered on, regardless of the key being turned on.

Here's what you do...

Above the inside fuse block down by the drivers left foot is a panel of relays. To get at them, not only does the fuse block cover have to come off, but you also need to remove the entire panel that surrounds the fuse block. It's actually a pretty easy task. Just snaps in or out.

Once that's off, you'll notice that the fuse block is also part of the relay block, mounted above the fuses. Looking from the bottom up, locate the relay that is in the second row of relays from the bottom, far right relay. On the very far right should be an empty socket. The relay you want is the next one to the left, or really the first available relay on the right side(second row from bottom).

This is the power outlet relay. It is fed from fuse #9 below. Remove this relay & throw it at your cat that is watching you from across the driveway. You then need to jumper pins 1 & 2. Pins 3 & 4 are for actuating the relay. Unfortunately, the pins are not marked on the block OR the relay itself. I had to do it using a voltage tester. What I CAN say is that looking at the block it is the two left most pins. They are aligned left to right, and pins 3 & 4 are aligned top to bottom. It's the left pair of pins that need to be jumpered together.

Once jumpered, your power outlets will be constantly fed.

Just be careful that you don't leave anything turned on that has a high draw. Cell phone chargers DO NOT have very much draw at all & can be left on for a long time without draining the battery....we're talking days if not weeks.

Replace the appropriate covers, plug in your cell phone & attempt to make nice with your now-pissed off cat.

Hard to imagine the reports that folks have been paying their dealers hundreds for this mod. It took me about 10 minutes.

Good Luck!!!!

(disclaimer...this mod is for the '05 TL only. I have no idea if it works for any previous years.)

 

This is good to know, as I've debated making mine always hot. One thing that should probably be mentioned is that the jumper wire you use should be a heavy enough gauge to carry the same amount or more of current that the relay was capable of passing. If the wire is too thin and a high-draw device is plugged in, it could burn up and melt plastic or start a fire.

Thanks for the detailed info.

 

i remember once that on alot of F-150s, the cruise control sensor was always hot, and peoples trucks burned to a crisp while they were sleeping. good post btw

 

Why would you want them always hot? Curious...

 

I haven't looked but with jumping the relay I would assume there is still circuit protection via the accessory/power plug fuse??

 

The benifit to having "hot" outlets is so that you can charge thing in your car w/o needing to have the car on. I.E., you can go in the store, and leave your cell phone charging in the car, or go to church, and leave it charging. Power other devices while your car is parked, charge camera batteries while you're shopping, etc.

I guess if everyone planned far enough ahead this wouldn't be necessary, but then again, neither would car chargers....

Great original post BTW!!!

 

2 things

1)

2) Why not just wire in a SPDT Switch and put it in the empty slot next to the VSA and Power Mirror controls? Then you can turn the outlets On/Off from a Switch, rather than leaving them always on. If you wanted to make it really pimp, you could buy a replacement VSA Switch (if it can be used like a SPDT) so it looks factory.

 

Yes...as I said in my original post....the relay is fed by fuse # 9 below it-15 amps.


It's also a good point that was made....make sure your jumper is heavy enough for the load.

I'll see if I can post a pic of the box when I get home.

 

I don't understand this either. I'd drain the battery to hell or something.

 

Sounds like a great idea, will be trying this shortly. Alot easier than running new hot wire through center console. Thanks for the post!

 

Yes, just to be clear, the fuse will only blow if the load exceeds the fuse rating of 15 amps. One would still need to make sure the jumper wire can handle at least 15 amps, too. If it's too light a gauge, it could overheat and melt/burn at a much lower current than needed to blow the fuse.