Hi,
I have been a "lurker" in these forums for sometime now. I am planning to trade my current car (04 Nissan maxima) with 64k miles for 07 tl-s with 25k miles on the odometer. It is costing me 27k+negative equity from the max.
The question that I had for you guys is that how well does this car hold up past 40k-50k miles. I intend to keep it for a while and I put at least 20k/yr. My drive is 50/50 between highway and city. So what is the experience of people who have had >40k put on their type S, does the V6 lose power past 40-50k miles? Maintenance issues? I am not looking at the regular TL.
Thank you
Rick

 

Since they offered in 2007+, you probably aren't going to find to many people that have over 50k miles on them already.

I know someone with an 07 that has 48k miles on it. He's had no issues other than routine maintenance (brakes, tires, etc).

 

^ Agreed...I would suspect that it will hold up as well as the base TLs. After all, the cars aren't *that* different from each other...

 

yeah i only have 34k miles on mine. cant really speak to how it will be after 50K+ but i guarantee that mine will run just as good as it does now since i take care of it.

 

do it- you will love it, just do the scheduled maintenance and you will be just fine man-

 

if u dont drive it too hard, and take care it ... i'm sure it will treat you well for a looooong time

 

Acuras and Hondas are well known for lasting a long time as long as you take care of it. Like others have said, just be sure to do the routine maintenance and you'll be fine!

Good luck on the purchase...you will love the car!

 

Rick, my Type S only has 18,000 miles on it. But I keep my cars for a very long time. I intend on doing the same with this one. It's a Honda-they run and run and run. Very reliable, good resale value. If you find a Type S that you like at the right price-grab it!

 

Thank you guys, your posts are reassuring. I was worried because my max drove like a dream until it hit 45k and everything went downhill since then. Needed a lot of wear and tear items replacement.
Keeping that in mind and assuming that I will be driving between 15k-25k the coming year, it seems like I will need new tires, probably even brakes within the next year or two. This car is a lease return and I would think that the guy drove it hard or in a spirited manner. So the above is more likely. I am trying to get them to include the 7 year/100k warranty in the price. We will see what happens. But all said and done this is one sweet car. Does someone know how much it wil take to change all 4 pads and rotors on this car? Any issues with rotors warping early?

 

I have a 2007 tls that I got in Sept of 07 and I drive it back and forth from Chicago to Waterloo, IA once a month to see my girlfriend. It's a great highway car... solid and reasonably quick. I also drive it hard, bump the limiter, hold the gears, and squeek the tires off the line and basically have fun with this car all the time.

At 49k it still drives like new (I also get a wash every week) and when I drove a new employee to lunch, her comment is indicative of this fact. "This new car is what I hope to drive one day." I told her it was 2 years old and she didn't believe me.

Try to get them to change the rotors before you buy. Pads on brembos cost about $150 for brembo brand pads and they are a breeze to install.

 

They are great and reliable. I workk in service at an Acura dealership and see a few with 50k plus and they have no problem. I would personally recomend it

 

i have 36k on mine i think thats a lot for a 2007

 

I have about 34k on my odo right now. No problems whatsoever, except pads running out at an avg of 16k about. Great car, and like others here, would definetely purchase again!

 

I just turned 80K on 2008 TL-Type S and it is running great.( Mostly highway miles.) The only minor issue is the "Tighten Gas Cap "message I get once in a while.

Got for it!!!!

 

I just went over 30K miles on my 08 TL-S and it's like I just drove it off the lot. Smooth as butter. I have yet to change brake pads or rotors. I think it's all in the way you drive. It's a great daily driver and travels nice as well. Hope to see your TL-S pics in here soon. Good luck on the deal.

 

Wow 80K on an 08 TL???? haha thats insane!! glad to hear it still runs great!

My 07 KBP has 27K on it drives and looks brand new. Only thing I see it needing soon would be new pads. Repacing pads more often is the price you pay for the higher performance brakes. The Brembos are SIGNIFICANTLY better than the regular base brakes. I know because I have owned both.

GO FOR IT!!!!!

 

So just back from the dealer. Everything is in place, finance is all set, they let me take it out without a sales guy. I drove 45 miles and came back with these issues:

1.Shimmy in steering wheel at 75mph( DEALER SAID THEY WILL BALANCE WHEELS AND CHECK TIRE PRESSURE)
2.Shimmy while braking from 75mph ( rotor issue).
3.Very grippy/catchy front pads. I mean if I engage the brakes while at a stop to roll and then stop I hear a sound everytime the pads bite the rotors, is that normal. I guess it is a moot point cause I know that the rotors are fubar anyways since it shimmies while braking.
4. Back deck buzz/rattle when I brake, this is only when I brake not when I am driving on bumpy roads.

Bonus points: 1.Warranty extended to 62000m/ 2011 for bumper to bumper
and powertrain to 7yr/100k.
2.I negotiated the price down to 26200 from 27500 and increased my trade in to 12000. Thus cutting back on the negative equity.
3.Generally pleasant drive, drives straight, no pull on braking.

Dealer issues: 1.Refuses to put new rotors or pads, says will evaluate tomorrow by service guys for deck rattle/shimmy/rotors warpage and decide what they will do-told me to expect only turned rotors- I know these will warp again in no time.
2.I asked him to complete the 30k maintenance-refused.
3.Lastly, probably one of the issues that I am findig hard to get over, I got a paint meter and walked around the car, driver side fender was repainted. Ran an autocheck on my iphone(previously had a dealer provided carfax), it came back with a collision history(reported by insurance). Confronted the dealer, he went back (fained ignorance) and brought the records showing front driver side fender painted for side swap. No frame damage or anything. He told me that the work was done at the dealership and gave me a copy of the work done. Said he will buff and wax that side and if that doesnt help, will add another layer of clear coat.

So right now I am 60/40 for this deal. What do you guys think?
BTW, thanx a ton for your input. Buying a used car is always tricky.
Rick

 

Honestly, I'd walk away from that one. No need to settle for a car with body work, TL's aren't rare by any means.

On the pads and rotor issue, the front OE pads alone for the TL-S are $150 wholesale, if you purchase them at the dealership, they are $200 +. The reason they will only turn the rotors is because they are expensive to replace. If you replace the pads and rotors yourself, you are looking at about $350-$400 in parts if purchased online. If you have the dealer do it, you are looking at probably $600 - $700 easily.

TL's can be bitchy about balancing. They need to use a road force machine to balance them correctly.

Either way, I'd walk away just based on the accident history alone. That is a lot of money to pay for a car that's been in an accident. You never know what kind of underlying damage there is.

 

yeah walk away. not worth buying a car that's been in an accident before. especially if its that much money.

 

They also have another type s with 18k and are asking 2k more for it. I will make an offer for that. I drove that too and it was fine. If they dont budge then I guess it is good bye. I will then wait to get a mildly used SH-AWD TL(if only they could have styled it better).

 

Rick, I agree with j1n and Brad. Walk on this car. There will either be another Type S that will come along that's better or the dealer will have to decide to work more with you on it. Either way, you'll come out better.

 

I agree, there are to many problems with car and the price is to high for a car which has had body work. Personally, I wouldn't buy a car knowing it had body and paint work.

 

I would look at that one, stick towards a TL-S. i was going to trade my TL-S in for a SH-AWD brand new at my dealership(payments were only going up $60) but i decided I liked my S better. Just wait til you find the right car

 

Yeah, I have decided I wil back out of this unless they cut a sweet deal for the 18k type-s. So you guys think the S is better than the SH-AWD? Interesting cause I didnt find that much of a difference except the "beak", extra 300lbs and the extra 7 inches....I guess I answered my own question.

 

once you get used to the brembo's its hard to go back to regular brakes.

 

Wait a second....you say you didnt find much of a difference between an 07/08 Type S and a new 4th gen 09 TL???? They are completely different cars not a single thing is the same. Or are you talking about performance only?

 

Dont walk away, run away from that car...

 

I have over 40K on my '07.
Still have the original tires; treads still good.

Issues:
Rear Suspension: Replaced by dealer.
Paint chips easily.
Wind noise when sunroof is closed
Driver side window sound loose if you close the door with the window opened partially.
Nav. freezes and resets sometimes.

Other than the minor stuff the car runs great.

 

So, I have been checking out other TL-S cars. I drove two today. I don't know what to say but both of them had issues like the previous one. Also the dealer that I was working with(for the 27k miles car with the accident history) would not budge from his price for the other TL-S that he had with 18k miles.
Now one of the car that I tested today, Blue with 26k miles on it pulled a little to the left on braking in city driving and then more obviously on the highway.
The more concerning thing was LUGGING at 45-50mph with the car in 4rth or 5rth. I mean this was not even a manual. Why would an engine lug on an AT car with so low mileage?? Also this one had a rattle in the glove box and the driver side door.
Price for this one:31988.....I started looking around to see what they were smoking!!!!

The second today was a white with 21k miles, lease return-Acura CPO. Drove good but had the shimmy at highway at around 75-80mph. Is this a common problem???? Now the dealers very conveniently blame it on flat spots, but driving around town for 5-10 miles should get rid of them. I drove this one for 25 miles. Even towards the end it would shimmy at 75mph. But braking was good. Guess what? It had the rear deck rattle. Also I had a feeling that it was searching for gears on slowing down, probably engine braking but it was prominent. Is this normal for this car???
Price?? 30900. These cars seem to be getting more expensive with each one that I check out. No wonder the dealers are not budging from the sticker. But I have been disappointed with my search so far. I had started the search thinking very highly of Acura as a brand and the Type-S as a car. But my sour experiences have dampened that enthusiasm a little bit. I was avoiding Nissan/Infiniti for these very reasons. One good thing is that most of the dealer experiences have been better than the Nissan dealers. But that may be because I have not been to the service department yet! I know I am getting cynical.

 

Hey where are you located? Im looking to sell my 2008 tl-s Carbon Bronze Pearl with 18k miles on it.. im the first owner and I was going to put it up for 29k.. My car has NO PROBLEMS AS STATED IN THE ABOVE CARS!

 

any of the problems you find in the car should be able to be fixed by warranty so i wouldn't worry to much about it.

 

walk away its sounds like they trying to pull a fast one

 

Getting warranty work done is like pulling teeth, even with blatantly obvious problems. I would avoid any car I thought was going to be a hassle down the line.

 

The dealership where I work at we like warranty work.

 

What is this shimmy u speak of? My car's steering is solid all the way up to 130 MPH

 

I did it.....I pulled the trigger on a MRP 07 TL-S with 18k on the odo for $27k+ttl. No shimmy, drives great, rotors were good. I put down 2500 this evening and will be going back tomorrow or day after to leave my maxima there and drive out with it. No pics yet but will definitely get some when I get the car home.

There were several things that I did notice while shopping for this one. This is the summary of my research:

1.Rattles: I drove 8-11 cars. At least 7 had one rattle or the other. The most common was the rear deck rattle. Annoying sound specially while braking. The one that I bought does not have one yet but I will not be surprised if I start having one in the future. Apparently there is a TSB out for this.

2. Shimmy: Several cars had a shimmy at 65-75. These were also the cars that had a loose steering. I was surprised that the cars with higher mileage had this weird loose feeling in the steering wheel. I am hoping that this was an exception and not something that happens with these cars as they get old. Otherwise the steering at lower speeds was tighter than most other cars.

3. Some cars had jerky engine braking, but these were also the cars that had higher mileage(30-55k). I think this is something that I noticed and may be just a subjective thing. But some TL-S had it more than others.

4. Rotors warping: At least 5 cars with 25k+ cars had shot rotors with pulsations while braking. So I will be prepared for this and will try and baby the brakes. But the brakes are so aggressive it is difficult not to push the car.

So why did I buy the car:
1. Drop dead gorgeous
2. Amazing mid and top end power. Low end is okay for a daily driver.
3. In spite of all the cracking dashboards this interior is still classy and very "now"! The interior styling on the S is specially nice.
4. Good highway mpg(I drive a lot).
5. 100k drive train warranty(included for being CPO..BS I know but something is better than nothing).
6.Comfortable on most roads. Somewhat jiggly on rough surface but bearable. Again good for a daily driver.
7.Good resale value (I hope it stays that way).

Worst fears:
Rattles
Dashboard cracking one morning
My neighbor screwing it out of jealousy( He drives an audi)
Rattles
Becoming drivaholic
OCD over it
Did I mention rattles.

On a more serious note, this is one of the best forums that I have visited. I hope to come back for more.
Rick

 

I was at the dealer 3 times for rattles and they got it right the third time. What used to be a symphony of clicks is now almost pure silence. Here is what I got fixed:

Rear Deck
Center Speaker
Loose wires behind the cluster
Some sort of bearing in the driver side seat belt housing
Trim around the shifter (I have a 5at)
Brakelight housing (I fixed by ever so slightly bending it up)
I hardwired my radar and the wire had a rattle which I fixed myself.

 

congratz on the car ... post pics ASAP

 

I kept getting the same "tighten gas cap" message. Brought it to the dealer and there was a service bulletin out for this issue. They replaced the "canister" and haven't had a problem since.

 

Been reading for a while but 1st time poster here.

Rick, what did you use on your iphone to perform an autocheck? I'd love to do something like this as well.

I have been TL-S shopping and have been trying to hold out for a NBP 07 or 08, but saw an 08 CBP today in what seemed to be mint condition. Carfax was clean, but I am hesitant now since you said you found something, even when Carfax was supposedly clean. I'm a noobie when it comes to used car shopping, so I'm being cautious here.

Also seems the prices within 50miles of NYC (where I am located), are pretty high. Is getting certified pre-owned what costs so much more?

Thanks all in advance.