Planning on buying a 2007 TL-S
09-17-2013, 12:34 PM
#1
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Planning on buying a 2007 TL-S
Hi Guys,
I've been a long time reader, first time poster. I am looking at finally buying a 2007 TL Type S with 76,000 miles in the Kinetic Blue with Taupe interior. I'm trying to gauge what would be considered a good value for the vehicle assuming that it is in good-very good condition. I am a fair person and do not want to insult the seller with a low-ball offer.
The list price was $17,000, but I'm seeing a KBB of about $16,200.
My question for you experienced TL owners is what is a fair price for the vehicle, taking into account, near term maintenance costs that I will be facing. (i.e, timing belt, water pump, transmission pressure sensor, etc.)
Also, according to the seller, the car has only been serviced by an Acura Dealership, and has NOT been garaged for the past 4 years subjecting it to the Oregon climate.
Thank you in advance for your advice!
I've been a long time reader, first time poster. I am looking at finally buying a 2007 TL Type S with 76,000 miles in the Kinetic Blue with Taupe interior. I'm trying to gauge what would be considered a good value for the vehicle assuming that it is in good-very good condition. I am a fair person and do not want to insult the seller with a low-ball offer.
The list price was $17,000, but I'm seeing a KBB of about $16,200.
My question for you experienced TL owners is what is a fair price for the vehicle, taking into account, near term maintenance costs that I will be facing. (i.e, timing belt, water pump, transmission pressure sensor, etc.)
Also, according to the seller, the car has only been serviced by an Acura Dealership, and has NOT been garaged for the past 4 years subjecting it to the Oregon climate.
Thank you in advance for your advice!
09-17-2013, 12:57 PM
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Based on a very quick search, I noticed that I'm probably going to have to change the water pump and timing belt within the next year to year and a half, I'm wondering if that's a valid negotiating point or if its too far into the future to be relevant.
09-17-2013, 01:05 PM
#4
Thanks Justnspace for your quick response! I'm new to negotiating for used cars. I've negotiated new car purchases before and those are much more straight forward since you have much more verifiable information to work with. So I appreciate your opinion.
Based on a very quick search, I noticed that I'm probably going to have to change the water pump and timing belt within the next year to year and a half, I'm wondering if that's a valid negotiating point or if its too far into the future to be relevant.
Based on a very quick search, I noticed that I'm probably going to have to change the water pump and timing belt within the next year to year and a half, I'm wondering if that's a valid negotiating point or if its too far into the future to be relevant.
it is a individual private seller, correct?
if so, he's looking to unload his vehicle, and you're trying to buy a vehicle.
just like a brand new vehicle, you're going to have to meet him halfway, or negotiate.
if he says no to your first offer and he doesnt counter, offer a little more.
09-17-2013, 01:15 PM
#6
Intermediate
When negotiating a new car the key is to have something you can make comparison to (another listing at a different dealership or a friend who owns one).
You have to remain unattached and play down the cars perks, highlighting specific issues (cracks, scratches, wear) also be willing to dig into the guts of the car (take off the plastic covers on the engine, test all electronics, use a diagnostic scanner like the torque app to check from engine knock, codes, etc.
You can always negotiate with these things, but if you want a low price you have to play hard. When they tell you to "sit here while they run some numbers", don't, get up and get some water or check out a different car.
If they agree make sure that you repeat your offer and verify that this is the agreed upon price. If they counter, you counter and then request no fees (dealership fees like refilling the headlight fluid, or whatever bs they throw at you). If they won't go to what you think is reasonable, then say you are going to go look at another listing. You can leave, don't worry, the car probably won't sell withing the next 24 hours and chances are they will call back with a better offer.
There are many great 07 Type-S's out there so don't get caught up on "The One".
And bring a checklist of things you NEED to know work before you drive off the lot with a lemon.
I'm in sales and this is my opinion
You have to remain unattached and play down the cars perks, highlighting specific issues (cracks, scratches, wear) also be willing to dig into the guts of the car (take off the plastic covers on the engine, test all electronics, use a diagnostic scanner like the torque app to check from engine knock, codes, etc.
You can always negotiate with these things, but if you want a low price you have to play hard. When they tell you to "sit here while they run some numbers", don't, get up and get some water or check out a different car.
If they agree make sure that you repeat your offer and verify that this is the agreed upon price. If they counter, you counter and then request no fees (dealership fees like refilling the headlight fluid, or whatever bs they throw at you). If they won't go to what you think is reasonable, then say you are going to go look at another listing. You can leave, don't worry, the car probably won't sell withing the next 24 hours and chances are they will call back with a better offer.
There are many great 07 Type-S's out there so don't get caught up on "The One".
And bring a checklist of things you NEED to know work before you drive off the lot with a lemon.
I'm in sales and this is my opinion
09-17-2013, 01:18 PM
#7
Suzuka Master
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Trying to negotiate the price based on a major service that isn't due for 29k (two years worth of miles on average) is ridiculous, regardless of the amount of miles you drive personally. Do your homework on the overall value of the car and try to haggle based on any major cosmetic issues or glaring deficiencies such as bald tires or whipped brakes.
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09-17-2013, 01:21 PM
#9
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
When negotiating a new car the key is to have something you can make comparison to (another listing at a different dealership or a friend who owns one).
You have to remain unattached and play down the cars perks, highlighting specific issues (cracks, scratches, wear) also be willing to dig into the guts of the car (take off the plastic covers on the engine, test all electronics, use a diagnostic scanner like the torque app to check from engine knock, codes, etc.
You can always negotiate with these things, but if you want a low price you have to play hard. When they tell you to "sit here while they run some numbers", don't, get up and get some water or check out a different car.
If they agree make sure that you repeat your offer and verify that this is the agreed upon price. If they counter, you counter and then request no fees (dealership fees like refilling the headlight fluid, or whatever bs they throw at you). If they won't go to what you think is reasonable, then say you are going to go look at another listing. You can leave, don't worry, the car probably won't sell withing the next 24 hours and chances are they will call back with a better offer.
There are many great 07 Type-S's out there so don't get caught up on "The One".
And bring a checklist of things you NEED to know work before you drive off the lot with a lemon.
I'm in sales and this is my opinion
You have to remain unattached and play down the cars perks, highlighting specific issues (cracks, scratches, wear) also be willing to dig into the guts of the car (take off the plastic covers on the engine, test all electronics, use a diagnostic scanner like the torque app to check from engine knock, codes, etc.
You can always negotiate with these things, but if you want a low price you have to play hard. When they tell you to "sit here while they run some numbers", don't, get up and get some water or check out a different car.
If they agree make sure that you repeat your offer and verify that this is the agreed upon price. If they counter, you counter and then request no fees (dealership fees like refilling the headlight fluid, or whatever bs they throw at you). If they won't go to what you think is reasonable, then say you are going to go look at another listing. You can leave, don't worry, the car probably won't sell withing the next 24 hours and chances are they will call back with a better offer.
There are many great 07 Type-S's out there so don't get caught up on "The One".
And bring a checklist of things you NEED to know work before you drive off the lot with a lemon.
I'm in sales and this is my opinion
09-17-2013, 01:44 PM
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Yeah, it is a private seller, but S41N7 is 100% correct. I usually get my new cars below invoice and those tactics he describe are tried and true.
I didn't realize that the water pump and timing belt were that far out. I do agree though that negotiating for a service that is still 29,000 miles away would be far-fetched. I am going to negotiate based on cosmetics but I'm kinda lost on how to evaluate a car mechanically beyond the obvious. Will the torque app just plug into the car's ECU and spit out codes?
Cust0mx, I haven't run a Carfax yet, I'm expecting to get a VIN from the seller pretty soon.
I didn't realize that the water pump and timing belt were that far out. I do agree though that negotiating for a service that is still 29,000 miles away would be far-fetched. I am going to negotiate based on cosmetics but I'm kinda lost on how to evaluate a car mechanically beyond the obvious. Will the torque app just plug into the car's ECU and spit out codes?
Cust0mx, I haven't run a Carfax yet, I'm expecting to get a VIN from the seller pretty soon.
09-17-2013, 02:24 PM
#12
Intermediate
Yeah I see that now, was typing it out over a few minutes between work so I missed the updates 
When you look at the car's internals you want to look for obvious cracking, erosion, build up, damage, anything that isn't close to pristine can be a way to drop the price.
Often times a seller will try to steer you away from problem spots so be aware of their body language and don't be afraid to ask about anything that might even be working just fine. They might even tell you about a "big bump" that makes the shock "look worn". It's all a game.
The app connects to a bluetooth dongle that you can get cheap on ebay or amazon.
When negotiating cosmetics always bring up future value. If the leather has obvious wear and tear, if the mirror motors grind, the vent flaps are loose, if they only have one of the keys, is the paint chipped or not perfectly smooth along the surface of the car, then bring up the cost of replacing/repair.
They hold there car to the value they received it at, you need to devalue it to the point that you see it at.
Yeah, it is a private seller, but S41N7 is 100% correct. I usually get my new cars below invoice and those tactics he describe are tried and true.
I didn't realize that the water pump and timing belt were that far out. I do agree though that negotiating for a service that is still 29,000 miles away would be far-fetched. I am going to negotiate based on cosmetics but I'm kinda lost on how to evaluate a car mechanically beyond the obvious. Will the torque app just plug into the car's ECU and spit out codes?
Cust0mx, I haven't run a Carfax yet, I'm expecting to get a VIN from the seller pretty soon.
I didn't realize that the water pump and timing belt were that far out. I do agree though that negotiating for a service that is still 29,000 miles away would be far-fetched. I am going to negotiate based on cosmetics but I'm kinda lost on how to evaluate a car mechanically beyond the obvious. Will the torque app just plug into the car's ECU and spit out codes?
Cust0mx, I haven't run a Carfax yet, I'm expecting to get a VIN from the seller pretty soon.
Often times a seller will try to steer you away from problem spots so be aware of their body language and don't be afraid to ask about anything that might even be working just fine. They might even tell you about a "big bump" that makes the shock "look worn". It's all a game.
The app connects to a bluetooth dongle that you can get cheap on ebay or amazon.
When negotiating cosmetics always bring up future value. If the leather has obvious wear and tear, if the mirror motors grind, the vent flaps are loose, if they only have one of the keys, is the paint chipped or not perfectly smooth along the surface of the car, then bring up the cost of replacing/repair.
They hold there car to the value they received it at, you need to devalue it to the point that you see it at.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 09-17-2013 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
09-17-2013, 07:06 PM
#13
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Best of luck dux.....obviously let us know how things go.
09-18-2013, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for everyone's advice.
Turns out the car was pretty beat up. The tires were completely bald (as admitted by seller),The brakes pads were worn and squeaky, there was rear quarter panel damage from a sideswipe and the interior had tears and scuffs all over.
Unfortunately, the car wasn't what I expected and I had to walk away.
The search continues!
Turns out the car was pretty beat up. The tires were completely bald (as admitted by seller),The brakes pads were worn and squeaky, there was rear quarter panel damage from a sideswipe and the interior had tears and scuffs all over.
Unfortunately, the car wasn't what I expected and I had to walk away.
The search continues!
10-26-2013, 07:18 PM
#15
I actually ended up buying this exact car you looked at. Despite the interior being not as pristine as you or I would've liked (the seller had two young kids) and the ding around the left rear wheel area, I wouldn't call it "beat up" either. As for the tires, yes, it was practically bald and needed to be replaced, but I had a friend that is in the tire business that hooked me up for free so it wasn't an issue for me. Hence, after having test driven the car and checking out the car fax (clean and clear), I pulled the trigger at $16.2K.
While it may not seem like a very good purchase to you, I'm very at peace with it and have no regrets thus far. I just thought I mention a few things to you to keep in mind as you continue your search. First and foremost, I thought I mention to you that it took me over a year searching on craigslist and going to auctions to come up with this purchase. The reason for this is that you have to realize that the Type-S is very rare. The Type-S models that I found on craigslist were either salvaged titles or had well over 100K miles and the ones that had average to below mileage were way overpriced (at least $19K+) despite what KBB says. Second, you are buying a USED car. Unless you're buying a brand new car, you will have to make compromises. I'm not sure what color in the Type-S you were looking for, but the kinetic blue pearl was one of my top 2 choices of colors and the fact that that color is exclusive to the Type-S makes it every more rare to find. Hence, when buying a used car, you're just not going to find anything that is "perfect." Thus, despite the imperfections, the condition of the car was not "beat up" by any means and was good enough for me to make the compromise to pull the trigger.
After the purchase, I had the car detailed at my friend's shop and had the ding and scuff around the wheel area removed for less than $100. As for the brakes, I think you may've misinterpreted because I had my friend's shop inspect them and they turned out to be quite new. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the purchase. If you're still looking for a pristine condition used Type-S, expect to spend at least $18K and a lot of time searching because there are very few, if any, around that meet your condition and budget. Good luck!
While it may not seem like a very good purchase to you, I'm very at peace with it and have no regrets thus far. I just thought I mention a few things to you to keep in mind as you continue your search. First and foremost, I thought I mention to you that it took me over a year searching on craigslist and going to auctions to come up with this purchase. The reason for this is that you have to realize that the Type-S is very rare. The Type-S models that I found on craigslist were either salvaged titles or had well over 100K miles and the ones that had average to below mileage were way overpriced (at least $19K+) despite what KBB says. Second, you are buying a USED car. Unless you're buying a brand new car, you will have to make compromises. I'm not sure what color in the Type-S you were looking for, but the kinetic blue pearl was one of my top 2 choices of colors and the fact that that color is exclusive to the Type-S makes it every more rare to find. Hence, when buying a used car, you're just not going to find anything that is "perfect." Thus, despite the imperfections, the condition of the car was not "beat up" by any means and was good enough for me to make the compromise to pull the trigger.
After the purchase, I had the car detailed at my friend's shop and had the ding and scuff around the wheel area removed for less than $100. As for the brakes, I think you may've misinterpreted because I had my friend's shop inspect them and they turned out to be quite new. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the purchase. If you're still looking for a pristine condition used Type-S, expect to spend at least $18K and a lot of time searching because there are very few, if any, around that meet your condition and budget. Good luck!
10-27-2013, 08:24 AM
#17
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